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RE: Dometic fridge inside light
Low Ambient Switch
Not used on all units. Disconnect the wires and do a continuity check. In the OFF position, there should be no continuity. In the ON position, there should be a continuity reading. All RV absorption refrigerators, while similar, operate a little differently than your home refrigerator. Dometic designers and engineers have equipped your refrigerator with an exclusive feature that allows for trouble-free operation in low ambient temperature ( below 50° F) for extended periods of time. Simply turn on the low ambient switch located beneath the top decoration panel that houses the control panel. Once the outdoor temperature is above 50° F, the low ambient switch should be turned off.
When the low ambient control is turned on it by-passes the interior light switch and turns on the interior light. The heat load of the 10 watt light bulb will cause the cooling unit to cycle approximate every 35 to 55 minutes. This will help keep the temperature in the freezer in the freezing zone. In low ambient temperatures the freezer will warm up because the refer box will not call for much cooling. When the refer calls for cooling it will cool the freezer first and then cool the refer box. When it is cool outside the refer box won’t call for as much cooling and the freezer might warm up to normal food storage temperature (34 to 35). The second thing the control will do is keep the cooling unit from freezing up in low outdoor temperatures. (20 to 0 F)
Rob
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Rob's
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10/20/11 10:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic fridge inside light
Model # would help but many models had a climate control when the weather gets colder the lights come on to force the fridge to cycle keeping cold. So look for the climate control should be located near the top of the fridge.
Rob
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Rob's
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10/19/11 12:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fan-tastic Fan and wiring
Most likely the light is wired in series, much like you want to do with the fan. The third wire just continues to the next light. You should find the circuit in the fuse panel an use a larger fuse when you install the fan.
Rob
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Rob's
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09/23/11 05:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: LCI leveling & slideouts
TROUBLESHOOTING
1st - Check the battery in the REMOTE. Replace if necessary.
2nd - Check for POWER into the receiver. If there is no POWER, check the protection device on the positive wire feeding the receiver. Reset or replace the protection device.
3rd - Check onboard fuses.
4th - When POWER into the receiver is established, check for POWER out to the MANUAL
SWITCHES. The positive wire also has a protection device inline. If there is no power out to the MANUAL SWITCHES, reset or replace the protection device.
5th - Reprogram remote to the receiver. See “TO PROGRAM THE TRANSMITTER.”
6th - If system is still inoperative, replace receiver. The receiver is common to all units.
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Rob's
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09/23/11 04:30pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: HWH 325 Series System Quit
Check that the oil reservoir is full with the jacks in the fully retracted position. If the vehicle is equipped with HWH room extensions, refer to the HWH Owners Manual for proper position of the room when checking the oil level.
Rob
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Rob's
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09/13/11 07:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: HWH Series 325 Levelers - Won't Extend
This manual might be helpful
Rob
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Rob's
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09/11/11 11:25am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hitch Ball latch not always locked down
I can only assume you have an Atwood Surge Brake
http://www.mobilexhibit.com/manual/hydbrake.gif height=500 width=332
More info.......
• Installation • Operation • Maintenance
Rob
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Rob's
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09/10/11 10:51am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Furnace
Make and Model would be helpful.
Off gas from not firing will smell so you may not have a leak.
Give us more info?
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Rob's
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09/08/11 02:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Digicync Slide Out Failure
See this thread
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Rob's
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09/08/11 02:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Lippert Level up ....broke
1. - Check the battery in the REMOTE. Replace if necessary.
2. - Check for POWER into the receiver. If there is no POWER, check the protection device on the positive wire feeding the receiver. Reset or replace the protection device.
3. - Check onboard fuses.
4. - When POWER into the receiver is established, check for POWER out to the MANUAL SWITCHES. The positive wire also has a protection device inline. If there is no power out to the MANUAL SWITCHES, reset or replace the protection device.
5. - Reprogram remote to the receiver. See “TO PROGRAM THE TRANSMITTER.”
6. - If system is still inoperative, replace receiver. The receiver is common to all units.
Rob
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Rob's
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09/07/11 10:03am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Water Pump
Without make and model of pump this is only a guess that the water pump pressure switch on the pump needs replacement.
Rob
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Rob's
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09/07/11 09:36am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Charge Wizard problem
From INTELI-POWER 9000 / 9100 TROUBLE SHOOTING FLOW CHART
"Is the Output above 14.0 VDC ? = YES = Return Unit for Repair per the instructions in the Owners Manual."
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Rob's
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09/02/11 02:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hydroflame furnace troubles...
BURNER IGNITES BUT IGNITION SYSTEM “LOCKS OUT” AND TURNS BURNER OFF
Low gas pressure = Set pressure to a minimum of 11" W.C. with all appliances running. Replace regulator if not obtainable.
1. Exhaust blocked = Clean exhaust.
2. Combustion air wheel loose = Reposition wheel and tighten
3. Electrodes out of adjustment = Adjust electrode according to furnace specifications.
4. Electrode defective = Replace electrode.
5. Circuit Board defective = Clean plug contacts. If still defective, replace. (Check on board tester when possible).
6. Flame sensor wire between electrode = Replace wire and circuit board defective
7. Air leakage at gaskets = Replace gasket
8. Defective heat exchanger = Replace heat exchanger
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Rob's
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09/02/11 10:27am |
Tech Issues
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RE: norcold 611 adjustment for altitude
Adjustment For Altitude
Can only be achieved by changing the orifice size. On N611 units with serial number 886961 and higher are equipped with an LP16 cap type orifice. All other units with serial numbers lower than listed were originally equipped with an 0.155 jeweled orifice. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR SERIAL #.
Orifice Size at Sea Level = LP16
2000' = LP17
3000' = LP18
4000' = LP18
5000' = LP19
6000' = LP19
8000' = LP22
9000' = LP23
10000' = LP25
If you need the jeweled orifice chart I can try to find it for you just let me know.
Rob
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Rob's
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09/02/11 09:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Water Heater Anode
WATER HEATER TANK CORROSION
Pinhole leaks from galvanic corrosion may cause the water heater tank to fail.
Microscopic particles of metals (like iron and copper) suspended in water, set up a reaction inside the water heater that is not unlike the principle on which an automotive battery operates. The aluminum tank is the anode and the metals in the water serve as the cathode. Consequently, the aluminum gradually sacrifices itself and aluminum particles are carried away with the water flow.
A white scaly material (aluminum oxide) often is formed around the points where the heaviest action is taking place and heat accelerates the process. Severity of the problem varies considerably in different locales depending on the metal and mineral content of the water. White deposits inside the water heater tank are usually from water impurities that have settled out.
Periodic flushing of the water heater tank under pressure is recommended to slow down this process.
Rob
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Rob's
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08/28/11 04:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Replacement Refrigerator
The first thing you start with is the actual dimensions of the refrigerator and will it fit the opening.
Then the next step and the most crucial is correct venting. It is essential that all maximum or minimum dimensions are strictly maintained as the performance of the refrigerator is dependent on adequate flow of air over the rear of the refrigerator. To much air and the ammonia pump will not work to little air and the ammonia will solidify.
NOTE: The upper vent should be centered over the condenser coil at the back of the refrigerator.
You will need to follow the standards for installation
In the U.S.A., the installation must conform with:
1. National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1-(latest edition)
2. Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standard, Title 24 CFR, Part 3280
3. Recreational Vehicles ANSI All 9.2-(latest edition). The unit must be electrically grounded in accordance with the National Electric Code ANSI/NFPA 70-(latest edition) when installed if an external alternating current electrical source is utilized.
Rob
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Rob's
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08/26/11 10:12am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold 6121 help- leaving tomarow
Trace your battery from the circuit board back to the battery if possible use the ground on the refrigerator to see if you have 13.6 vdc
Rob
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Rob's
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08/25/11 12:17pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold 6121 help- leaving tomarow
You are most likely getting 13.6 vdc from the RV's power converter. When you unplug shore power then the refrigerator relies on 13.6 vdc from battery power. Also test gas valve solenoid.
1. Check gas valve solenoid resistance. Should be 79 to 85 ohm's if not then replace gas valve.
2. Check gas valve solenoid wires for continuity. No continuity then Replace gas valve wires.
3. Check voltage across power board terminals GV and GV GND. No voltage replace power board. If these is voltage then you have a faulty or obstructed gas valve. Replace gas valve.
Rob
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Rob's
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08/25/11 11:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Cardinal Factory Repair Facility
Try Here
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Rob's
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08/21/11 11:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fridge on the fritz!
FSAD Reread your post
"2 weeks straight (can't remember the on/off button's position when i found it). but i am guessing i cooled the thing to death"
Leaving the fridge run for 2 weeks will not cool the thing to death. I had a fridge run continuously for 20 years and I sold it still in working condition.
"heres the rub....
i thought, ok, no biggie, that next wednesday morning, closed the doors, turned it on (AC) and cooled it down. i have a thermo in there and weds afternoon it read, i thought i saw, around 38°. cool! packed it up, sat over night, unplugged thurs am, and drove to work. got to work bout 30-35 min later, frige was 57°! panicked, took all teh food into the REAL frige at work. plugged it in to AC (been on propane obviously) and prayed. didnt go down. actually went to 60°"
A cooling unit will not work intermittently it works or it doesn't. So your problem lies in the heat source that's not working. If its both heat sources then it could be the circuit board or as simple as a bad ground poor 12VDC.
Bottom line don't change a cooling unit for nothing until all diagnostics's are exhausted.
Rob
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Rob's
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08/18/11 11:11am |
Tech Issues
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