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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Best tire pressure monitoring system
I agree-- the responses will not be able to give you a reasonable evaluation-- just a "the one I chose is best".
Bottom line-- look through the various threads on TPMS and GET ONE.
BTW, I chose PressurePro. American made and from a company that has been in business a long time. NOT a marketing company with overseas product.
X2
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OnaQuest
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05/17/12 10:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Feedback on Bounder
Any comments on Fleetwood Bounder 28 MS Storm. Seems like you get a lot of MH for the money. Is the quality of the build good.
It's either a Bounder or it's a Storm. It can't be both. The Bounder would be a tad better appointed, than the Storm, on the inside.
i.e. real oak cabinet doors, etc.... Otherwise, they are pretty similar.
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OnaQuest
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05/17/12 10:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help with Propane Stove
My apologies. I thought your reference to RV meant to a motorhome. If all you want to do is hook the stove to a larger LP (i.e. 20lb tank), then a simple hose with the proper adapters is okay.
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OnaQuest
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05/15/12 04:04pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Help with Propane Stove
The device you are looking for is called an "extend a stay". Google it.
The price of the adapter and required hose will exceed the cost of your stove.
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OnaQuest
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05/13/12 03:38pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Solar mounted to AC shroud?
The little solar panels you see on the AC shrouds are more sales gimmick than functional units. They are usually just hooked to the chassis battery and act as a trickle charger at best.
The mounting doesn't apply any weight of stress to the shroud as it matches the mounting bolt hole pattern in the shroud to AC unit.
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OnaQuest
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05/11/12 11:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Securing Genturi to side of coach - How did you do it?
I'm not sure why everyone is so afraid of riveting those little one inch square anchors to the side of their rig. You can't even see them from ten feet away.
They sure as hell look better than over sized suction cups, raised floor pullers, window/glass carriers and bungee cords.
The nicest thing about permanently mounting the anchors is that they are always where you left them. When you need to deploy the Centuri they are right there in the correct place.
There are just sooo many more serious things to worry about.....
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OnaQuest
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05/10/12 03:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Can't remove a/c covers
Rich D wrote:
Oh, come on, lighten up... It was a joke. BTW, certain items take on different names in different parts of the US and Canada. Just because you call it a whatever does not mean all do. The folks here were answering and helping the OP. Were you????????
Try searching on RV A/C covers and then try searching on RV AC shrouds. See which gets you to what you really want, the quickest. 'nuf said.
"The folks here were answering and helping the OP. Were you???????? "
Really??
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OnaQuest
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05/09/12 03:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Pulse charger
Did anyone besides me notice the last sentence in the information from Trojan contradicts everything they said before it. They want you to buy more batteries(-:
I don't think they (Trojan) made any conflicting statements. If you noticed, all their prior statements were filled with "may" do this or that, "might erroneously" do this or that. Nothing bad, positively "will" happen.
The last sentence doesn't say that the odds are in favor of nothing going bad, it simply implies that "keeping a close eye on your batteries" would include taking proper action in case any of the listed possibilities do occur.
That's my interpretation..........
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OnaQuest
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05/09/12 01:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Inverter Issue
I don't think the house battery shunt is hooked up the way you think it is. If the Inverter/Charger and remote control monitor panel was factory installed, then I suspect the shunt is internal to the inverter and only allows measurement of current provided to, or drawn from, your house batteries by the Inverter/Charger. The shunt would effectively be in the Inverter/charger negative path, but not the battery negative.
Either the I/C or the batteries has to be grounded directly to the frame to make the measurements via the shunt function properly.
If you have a Trimetric or a Xantrex Link 10/20 (installed after market) then I would agree with you that the shunt is very likely in your house battery negative cabling.
I think what you have is a defective negative connection from your house batteries to frame ground. Remove, inspect, clean and tighten all negative connections from batteries to frame and your problem will likely disappear.
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OnaQuest
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05/09/12 12:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Can't remove a/c covers
Not one person in this entire thread called those "covers" by their correct name. They are called "shrouds". Correct terminology may have lessened the confusion just a tad:R
Or, were we purposely trying to cover up something shrouded in secrecy? :E
No!, but you weren't helping the thought process of the OP or others, either. DUH!
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OnaQuest
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05/09/12 12:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Can't remove a/c covers
Not one person in this entire thread called those "covers" by their correct name. They are called "shrouds". Correct terminology may have lessened the confusion just a tad:R
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OnaQuest
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05/09/12 10:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Boost ?
My very first post states that I have a 2008 Winnebago Sightseer 29R.
Sorry, I didn't mean to be rude. I missed most of your first post.
As a prior poster stated, Winnebago uses a very simplistic approach to the subject solenoid. It's a defective solenoid.
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OnaQuest
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05/07/12 08:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery Boost ?
OK, so I will check conections and measure the voltage on both sides of the solenoid once I get access to it. Another question I have is where does the activation voltage come from, the chassis or the house battery. With the ignition off and the aux battery switch off I do not here the solenoid click when depressing the boost switch. The solenoid clicks when either one is turned on and the boost switch depressed. It's like both sets of batteries provide the solenoid activation voltage.
If you would just answer the question about what RV you have, someone MAY be able to answer that question.
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OnaQuest
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05/07/12 06:41am |
Tech Issues
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RE: poorly done ad by Newell
ALL Newells are sold before they are built.
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OnaQuest
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05/06/12 09:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Boost ?
What make and model RV do you have. This will make a difference in how you gain access to the failing solenoid.
It does sound like you have a defective solenoid. It is not making internal contact to connect the two batteries. The clicking says the activation circuitry is okay. Replacing the solenoid is a simple task.
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OnaQuest
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05/06/12 08:00pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Liquid Rubber Roof
It took 6 gal of Liquid Rubber, Same as Liquid Roof for RV, to do my Dolphin. Took two of us, 2 long days but we taped all seams with Etherbond Roof tape, removed AC'e to get under them and repaired an old repair. And it was 90 degrees outside and HOT. And only one person on the roof at a time. It looks like I have a NEW roof :)
I'm doing the same thing on my '97Bounder this week. I did the Allure flooring in March. I hope the roof turns out as nice as the floor:)
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OnaQuest
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05/03/12 08:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Flexible Brake Hose Replacement procedure?
I can't; but you might find the help you need on the iRV2.com/forums on this link. It looks like Lt46 knows how.
Thanks, George. I saw that thread today and it gave me hope that it can be done. I'm just not sure I'm flexible enough to get my hands into those tight places, or with enough strength to get the job done.
I do plan to have the hoses in hand before I proceed, in the event I have to destroy the hose in the removal process.
Thanks again, lou
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OnaQuest
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05/02/12 07:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Flexible Brake Hose Replacement procedure?
Okay, Eric, John and Joey. Let's meet at my house tomorrow morning at 9am, and when you've helped me get this darned hose off, we'll cut it apart and post photos of it.:B:W
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OnaQuest
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05/02/12 05:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Flexible Brake Hose Replacement procedure?
My 97 Ford Class A had nothing but brake problems from day one. My repair man suggested the brake hose issue. Changed them, no more problems. He cut one apart, yes, it was swollen shut in the middle.
Thanks for the input.
I'm really surprised that Big K hasn't stepped into the thread. He went thru all of the suggested fixes and never fixed the problem until he bought a DP.
Nothing wrong with PM that's for sure. If the hose does fix the one heating brake please post back. If everything else is serviced, then that would be the end answer. If once the hose was off could you also please do the cut apart and photo for the rest of us to see.
There's your answer... Buy a DP
Seriously, I'll post the results when I get the hoses changed.
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OnaQuest
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05/02/12 05:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Flexible Brake Hose Replacement procedure?
Again I ask why do you feel like you need to replace it? Someone else on this forum made a few statements about what "might" happen. I have read these same statements before on this forum, yet never known anyone who had proof that they caused an issue which was then fixed by replaceing them.
Will this thread be the first one that will prove that non-leaking hoses should really be replaced with hard evidence. If it is, I would really appreciate it since I have a '96 F53 and would like the knowledge. If it doesn't fix anything, please state that also. I know "BigKatuna" was fighting a sticky brake issue and the hose replacement did not fix the problem.
John&Joey, I'm replacing them just because I've lived long enough to know that 15 year old rubber hoses can begin to disintegrate and cause problems. I remove, and either replace or rebuild my brake calipers about every three years. I usually suffer at least one hot wheel (caused by a dragging brake pad) in the third year if I don't follow that pattern.
There was/is no reason why I should have had this most recent problem (one wheel hot) between the aforementioned maintenance cycles unless there is some obstruction in the line to retard return fluid flow.
A problem with just one wheel does NOT indicate a systemic failure, like a master cylinder or a hydro boost, so I suspected the hose.
I have NO problem with replacing the hoses, after 15 years, on a "just because" basis.
Replacing the hoses may, or may not, completely cure the problem. I'll really never know because I've already removed, serviced and replaced the caliper on that particular wheel.
The replacement of the hoses is merely a preventative maintenance procedure and I feel it's justified. YMMV
PS - If I recall correctly, BigKatuna had a master cylinder failure. Since he had multiple brakes dragging, he had reason to suspect the problem was a unit common to all wheels. Not the case with mine.
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OnaQuest
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05/02/12 02:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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