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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Keystone Raptor AC problems
deleted duplicate
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Nspect
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05/15/12 01:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Keystone Raptor AC problems
You need to do more testing to see if it happens in other conditions such as microwave and water heater running in electric mode and then turn on/off the 12V loads. It sounds like a new convertor box or relay control panel might fix it but a good troubleshooter might find a problem with the associated wiring that could eliminate "part changing".
Is this a problem at a specific campsite now or any shore power connection?
This could be something that is unsafe to troubleshoot unless you have experience with 120/240V power etc.
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Nspect
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05/15/12 01:14pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Cheap way to meter electrical usage? Or just guess?
I would guess it would average around $5-7 a day in the summer at 10cents/kwh.
Here is a product that may work if you want to really know the usage but you need one with a sensor for each 120V leg on a 50 amp 240V rig.
http://www.theowl.com/products/owlmicro.php
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Nspect
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05/10/12 10:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tilt on WDH ball?
Can someone explain the difference in the direction of tilt on a WDH ball set up. I'm pretty sure it puts more weight foward or backwards depending on the tilt, mine is set tilted as far back as it can go. Does this mean that it is pushing as much weight to the front as it can?
What brand do you have?
There are several things that affect the weight distribution.
You need the correct amount, not "as much as it can"
That is the general idea though, a tilt back puts the spring bars lower at the back end which causes more force required to attach them to the trailer which in effect lifts the back of the truck.
There are lots of things to measure but if the rig does not look level when everything is loaded up and ready to go then its not adjusted correctly.
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Nspect
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05/10/12 09:34pm |
Towing
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RE: travel trailer brakes
Even when you think your trailer brakes are ok you should manually activate the circuit and measure the current to be sure every wheel brake is working.
Here is a good source of pin numbers and current readings etc
http://www.championtrailers.com/brkart.html
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Nspect
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04/23/12 05:39pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Breakers arc then trip...What is the fix?
Whatever the 15 amp breaker feeds is probably bad or something has chewed into the wires. You can burn something up if you keep resetting the tripped breaker. Let us know what the 15amp feeds.
Leave it off and see if everthing else works.
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Nspect
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03/18/12 09:17am |
Tech Issues
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Cummins training and service
We have been preparing for our future DP purchase and found some good local service that also offers training for owners. They also work on most chassis and appliances.
This is part of the nationwide Coachcare concept that has been discussed on here. I like the training that provides manuals to keep.
http://www.cumminsatlantic.com/coach_care.htm
http://www.cumminsatlantic.com/training.htm
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Nspect
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03/15/12 03:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Not using TV brakes
On the other hand, your Toyota Armada has powerful vented front disks and solid disk rears...and a sophisticated Anti-Lock brake system designed to stop you and your trailer in a hurry...and fully capable of stopping you in a panic situation if need be.
If (God FORBID!) you get into an accident because of your bad braking habits, the accident investigator will really freak out if you only left skid marks from the trailer tires!
Then he will analize your on board event computer to extract what you were doing when the accident occured.
I was an Certified Police Accident Investigator trained at the California Highway Patrol Accident Investigation Unit (with the MAIT), and testified as a Expert witness at many vehicle related Criminal trials...so trust me when I say STOP DOING THIS NOW
I agree with not doing what the OP mentioned but....
I have always wondered when everyone will catch on to anti-lock brakes and learn that you don't look for skid marks anymore since there will basically be none. Anti-skid disables when the vehicle gets to some preset speed, typically under 10mph where maybe a short mark could result but not very noticeable on the typical worn and paved surface. Anti-skid has been around for a very long time on many vehicles. No skid marks does not equal driver error in a proper accident investigation.
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Nspect
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03/04/12 08:37pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 50 AMP not working in 1/2 of our RV
Does the new A/C work now or is it on the bad leg?
Find out where they tapped into the power for the new A/C and you will find the problem around there.
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Nspect
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03/02/12 11:38am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Found trailer brake problem - factory error
I used to work on boats. I have been fighting Scotchloks forever. Inside a house or someplace else that is quiet, cool and dry - maybe. But boats, cars, RVs - No.
How long ago was this? Did they have the Scotchloks that were water resistant then? The trailer manuf should be using the ones rated for outdoor use nowadays. None of mine had a problem that had been properly crimped.
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Nspect
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02/24/12 03:26pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Found trailer brake problem - factory error
So what did the manufacturer have to say?
Not sure who wires the trailers, I guess Forest River does that after they buy all the components.
I should ask them to at least send me some new connectors since those probably have some corrosion and arcing after being partially or not crimped for over 5 years.
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Nspect
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02/23/12 08:55pm |
Tech Issues
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Found trailer brake problem - factory error
The brakes always seemed fine for 5 years and have kept them adjusted but starting noticing some decreased performance lately. I usually set the prodigy controller to B2 for highway driving and had it there during a very hard braking event that did not go well. We were approaching an area where 2 or 3 lanes went straight and 2 went right. All lanes had cars side by side going about 60 when a car ahead shut off or something and moved into my lane and almost stopped. At first I thought I could just change lanes but looked and saw cars everywhere. I was already on the brakes but now had to really get on them.
This was the first time I had braked this hard at highway speeds towing this RV but was less than impressed with the deceleration. I increased the pedal pressure to about 90 percent of what I could do, basically all that was left was total panic braking which I wanted to avoid and really felt wasn't going to help based on the total lack of improvement during the last few seconds of major braking power applied. This was all done while trying to figure out what that car was doing and if he really was going to totally stop on an interstate highway. I pretty much knew at this point that there would be some impact if the car did not accelerate or my brakes got magically better in about 2 seconds. Luckily the car sped up and I was able to release the 150-200 pounds of force I had on that spongy GMC pedal.
My wife never knew how bad it was since I never jammed the brakes all at once and did not know that I was pressing so hard.
So now we are driving along and I explained to her what really was going on back there. We decided that there had to be something wrong. We tested the braking some at slower speeds, it seemed ok and changed the boost to B3 and convinced ourselves that it was better and that we would check everything later.
OK, so the story is long but this is information everyone with electric brakes needs to know about since low to medium speed braking with some brakes not working is not always noticeable with a good brake controller and lack of a real emergency situation to draw your attention to the problem.
It was time to repack the bearings anyway so I decided to checkout the brakes during all that.
We used the manual lever on the prodigy to energize the brakes while parked. Neither rear trailer brake magnet energized. I cut wires to check voltages etc since the 3M connectors can not be removed/reused. With the magnets disconnected, the voltage is there during manual brake lever application and magnet resistance checks good. Brake pads etc are fine too. Ok, time to do some advanced troubleshooting. I found that the voltage drops out with the magnets reconnected. The problem was found to be two 3M connectors that were never crimped! The wires were large enough to make enough contact to work at least part of the time I guess since these brakes have worked in the past during brake controller setup on gravel roads. The pads also show some normal wear.
The link below is what the connectors look like, you just mash the center with some pliers and you feel it move about 1/8 inch as it binds into the wires. I suggest everyone get some regular pliers and see if your connectors (at each wheel and a few others) need crimping in all the way.
http://www.rshughes.com/products/054007_09230.html
A tip for troubleshooting brakes that we used:
Disconnect the tow vehicle and use a 6 amp 12V battery charger to connect to wiring at different points and watch the current meter to determine which magnets are drawing current etc.
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Nspect
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02/23/12 08:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: The one specific suggestion you would make to RV makers...
They need to stop paying the dealers for full inspections since they only do a walk through and look for obvious cosmetics and maybe hose the unit off. The price should be adjusted (yeah right). Many times its too cold to connect water anyway so why should we be paying for something that is not being done? I know, the dealers need to make money..... but it should not be causing buyers to think anyone has really inspected their rig, its just not safe or fair.
They should produce a document that shows what really needs to be done and let the buyer either hire someone or do it themselves. Most of the issues with new rigs can be eliminated by having a real inspection performed. We all know that most rigs only get partially inspected during the first camping trip by the owner using the systems. This is not enough.
I had mine delivered in the winter so I had time to really inspect it. I did more inspections later on as I learned more about it.
Here is what I found during the total of over 8 hours of inspecting and fixing:
Crimped main PEX water pipe inside rear stereo cabinet. Would have only gotten 40 percent flow if not found beforehand.
Sawdust shot out of all the supply registers the first time air was run.
Loose drain pipes under tub.
Loose wire inside convertor.
Tire pressures varied from 40 to 70 when delivered (should have been 50 on those initial cheap tires)
Loose structural bolts that hold the walls to the frame.
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Nspect
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02/07/12 10:16pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: lubricating equalizer hitch
A little grease will reduce the stiction at the trailer end of the bars which will help prevent noise during low speed turns. If the hitch is setup up properly you will still have plenty of friction for the sway control. I don't always grease mine but I did do a mod to the mounts on the trailer so the entire thing was not relying on those small set bolts.
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Nspect
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02/07/12 09:59pm |
Towing
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RE: Not as young as we used to be.....
Here is a good one or you can just get a cheaper air mattress (expect to replace the air mattress every year).
We bought a 10 inch thick overstock RV one for less a few years ago, it looks like the prices have gone up...
http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Select-Luxury-Home-RV-8-inch-Queen-Short-size-Memory-Foam-Mattress/5699186/product.html?rcmndsrc=2
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Nspect
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02/06/12 10:15pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: TT recommendations
We had recommended one of these to someone before that wanted something similar so maybe one of these would work for you.
http://www.rvwholesalers.com/design/Palomino_Gazelle/Palomino_Gazelle.php
http://www.palominorv.com/Gazelle/
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Nspect
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02/06/12 09:52pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Generator races when load comes off
Sounds like a sticking governor or carb needs cleaning or both.
Here is a good document:
http://www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onanrvtshootgd608.pdf
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Nspect
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02/06/12 09:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 50amp to 30amp Dogbone question
The link you posted for the adapter that did not work shows a 3-prong 50 amp receptacle. Are you sure that is what you have? You should have a 4-prong plug.
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Nspect
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01/29/12 09:23pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Hilton Head Island. S.C.
We like this one, the other one on the island only allows class A's
Take the first left once you get on the island.
btw, its in SC
http://www.hiltonheadharbor.com/
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Nspect
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01/22/12 06:21pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: water heater troubleshooting
Its a simple Suburban 120V/Gas.
No control board for the electric. It will run on electric and gas at the same time if you want.
Here is the repair process that worked so I hope it helps others:
Initial symptoms and readings:
No electric water heating working.
Measure 120 Vac on both terminals of the heating element to ground.
Measure 0 Vac across the element.
This indicates a missing neutral.
A switched neutral would be improper design but easy to see that the switch cycled the 120V so that was not the case.
I knew that a loose neutral connection in my breaker box was very unlikely since I tightened and corrected all that when the unit was new.
So now I know the neutral is loose or broken somewhere else.
I took off the panel under the oven to access the back area of the water heater and saw the water heater has a regular power cord plugged into an outlet under there.
The plug was half way out of the receptacle and cocked to the side where the power was making contact but the neutral was not.
Sometimes its easy to make assumptions and start replacing parts but its usually best to take the time to take voltage readings and figure it out.
This ended up being a weird problem since most regular plugs that come loose would kill the 120 Vac power and be even easier to figure out than this easy one.
Hope this helps someone later.
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Nspect
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01/22/12 10:22am |
Tech Issues
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