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RE: RV Expenses
Speaking of free, if you are parking at home, and have an accessible horizontal sewer cleanout (one below the outlet elevation of your RV), then you can simply remove the cleanout plug and dump right into the sewer. Has to be a horizontal cleanout though (in the garage floor or driveway for example). This is what I do at home.
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MacRoadie
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05/11/12 12:03pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Hauling Golf Carts & Tailgates
Here you go:
http://www.dgmtailgatesupport.com/product.html
They work great - use them to load and haul my 1000 lb Polaris RZR.
Very nice!
I have the integrated backup camera on my truck, so removing the tailgate isn't an easy task (there's a disconnect but it's a PITA). I may be ordering a set of those today.
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MacRoadie
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05/02/12 02:23pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Towing TT with Golf Cart in back of truck
While a 14 and a 16 inch drawbar may have the exact same rating the load they apply to the receiver wouldn’t be… the longer the drawbar the lower the load weight needed at its end of it to reach the receivers breaking point ---If you are using a weight distribution hitch,
the length of the drawbar has relatively little effect on the torque which is applied to the receiver.
Assuming you wish to keep the front axle load the same as its unhitched value,
for a typical TV/TT combination,
doubling the length of the drawbar will increase the receiver torque by about 5%.
Ron
I agree for the most part. However, While a WD hitch removes most of the torsional loading on the hitch (the spring bars create a truss connection rather than a hinge), there is still downward force at the end of the hitch bar. The efficiency of the lever is reduced, but not eliminated.
Certainly the effect of a longer hitch bar without a WD head would be significantly greater, but the use of the WD Head doesn't eliminate the moment on the receiver.
Is the added 1 or 2 inches of real significance? Probably not, but the question was whether or not a longer hitch bar has any effect, not the significance of the effect.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 07:11pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
And, I expect, there always will be reports of personal experiences supporting the differing views on how long the lanyard should be.
Ron
That's what makes Internet forums fun. ;)
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 07:03pm |
Towing
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RE: 2004 Dodge 2500 with 4884# of gravel in the bed *pics*
Ah, so now we have a better idea.
The 5,500 kg is the gross loaded weight (truck and gravel).
The 3,300 kg is the TARE weight (unladed weight of the truck).
With the better pics, it's much more obvious that the truck is not only down on the bump stops, but that the spring packs are almost inverted.:E
That makes much more sense.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 05:32pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Towing TT with Golf Cart in back of truck
an extended shank (which WILL reduce the rating of the hitch).
Good luck / Skip
I disagree with the reduction in the rating opinion. I recommend one do a LOT of research before even believing this assertion. Skip has his opinion and I have mine and I have NEVER found any derating for and extended hitch except for those that have two holes where the drawbar aren't solid but sort of "I" beam shaped and that extra loss of metal might in fact effect the strength of the drawbar. My 16" which I have been using is solid square stock with only one hole for the receiver.
Larry
The question is not about "derating" the hitch bar. That solid 2" stock likely has a shear and bending strength greater than any load you could possibly put on the vehicle's suspension system.
The question relates to the extension of the lever (moment arm) created by the hitch bar. Using a longer bar, and in turn moving the load further away from the receiver tube, increases the moment of force on the receiver. It's simple physics and is inescapable.
If the tongue weight remains constant, but the moment arm is increased (lengthened) by means of an extended draw bar, then the moment of force on the receiver must increase.
As was said above, use a long enough hitch bar and you could potentially apply enough load to the receiver by hand to exceed the hitch rating (taking it out to the ridiculous of course).
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 05:12pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Water pressure regulator????
side of RV...prefer to save my RV and water pump as opposed to my hose
If you put it on the spigot it protects the hose AND the RV.
$10 or so for a new hose...sorry I prefer the RV
But if it is on the spigot, then everything after that is protected: the pressure is reduced and isn't going to magically bump back up after the water passes through the hose.
As others have said, service pressure varies greatly and while protecting the trailer is of paramount importance, placing the regulator so that it ALSO protects the hose isn't a bad thing.
Especially if that hose decides to burst at 3:00 am due to a pressure surge. Then what is the value of that hose?
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 04:58pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Water pressure regulator????
side of RV...prefer to save my RV and water pump as opposed to my hose
If you put it on the spigot it protects the hose AND the RV.
Bingo.
It is at the point of service, so everything downstream, including my water filter, my hose, and my trailer's plumbing is protected.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 04:56pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
Oh yeah, and always make sure that ------ the lanyard is longer than the extended length of the chains under tension (so that the breakaway won't be activated before the chains go taught).There are (and, I expect, always will be) differing views on how long the lanyard should be.
This is what Warner Electric, the maker of the previously referenced Safety Breakaway Switch, has to say:
The lanyard should be long enough to allow for turning corners, yet short enough to disengage the pin from the switch before the safety chains on the hitch become taut in a trailer disconnect situation.
Ron
I think that makes perfect sense on, for example, a utility trailer, where you don't have an on-board brake controller that allows for manual application and modulation of the trailer brakes.
As someone who has actually had a trailer pop off the ball (coupler broke), I'm glad I was able to manually apply the trailer brakes without the tires locking. As a result, I was able to apply trailer braking as needed to keep the chains taught (no TV brakes applied), yet still had the ability to move off the highway onto the shoulder with the trailer tracking properly behind me.
I am convinced that if the trailer brakes had been locked up, the maneuver off the road would have been made significantly more difficult, and the emergency stopping of 16,000# of trailer/TV combo in the #2 lane much more dangerous for fellow motorists.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 04:48pm |
Towing
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RE: 2004 Dodge 2500 with 4884# of gravel in the bed *pics*
I did some searching on Google. A cubic yard of gravel (1/4" to 2" in size) weighs 105# per cubic foot, or about 2300# per cubic yard.
A truck bed is 8x4x1.7 feet dimensions = 48 cu ft if full to the top and assuming it's about 20" deep (which it is). Full level to the top, it would hold about 1.97 cubic yards, and his is probably 3/4 full by the picture, so that = 1.4 or so cubic yards x ~2300# per cubic yard. That adds up to 3200#. Maybe he meant 2220 lbs, not 2220 Kg? Or he thought the scale was in Kg (we are in Canada) when it was actually in pounds...I dunno. looks pretty full for only 2220# if it weighs 105# per cu ft. If the bed was right full and level, the load would weigh about 5040#. Looks pretty close to full to me (some piled above level), so 4800# is possible. :h
Marty would know! :B
Those numbers are pretty close for dry loose gravel: 105#/CF. That 4,900# number would be about 46.5 CF or 1.7 CY of rock.
I'm just having a hard time swallowing the idea that a truck with about 2,500# of available payload (8,800# GVWR minus an average curb weight of 6,250# for a 4X4 quad cab long bed) isn't showing ANY sign of sag (and still looks a tad ass-high) even at well over a ton (2,400#) over its max payload.
Not saying the truck couldn't haul it, just having trouble with the "no sag" idea.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 04:28pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: making the RIDE a little smoother
In the door jam GM calls for 80 rear and 55 front... When not under load what do other 3/4 ton GMC's run?
I go 45 in the front and 65 to 70 in the rear. My kidneys and teeth thank me for it.
Back up to 80 in the rear if I have any load in the bed or am towing.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 04:09pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 2004 Dodge 2500 with 4884# of gravel in the bed *pics*
No sidewall deflection on the tires either? Not even with an additional 2,400# on each side? :h
Even a dually is going to have 1,200# + on each tire with that load.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 03:54pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
It could also be argued 'when' you want the break away pin to be engaged. Mac prefers to have it engage even if the chains are still attached to the tow vehicle..
I personally have mine set so it won't engage until the trailer has completely separated from the tow vehicle. Safety chains and all!
I'm not saying Mac's way is incorrect at all either.. Just the way HE prefers to have it engage. I'm not saying the way I have it set is the correct way either.. Just the way I prefer to have it engage if it ever comes to that..
Now, since I have NOT EVER tested mine, it would probably be a good idea to do so, just to make sure it's still working after 10 years!
Mitch
I agree.
I edited that paragraph a couple of times to make it read better, and ended up with it stating the exact opposite to what I wanted it to say. :S
If you shorten the lanyard to the point that it engages the breakaway BEFORE the chains go taught, then you lose the ability to modulate braking force as you recover control of the vehicles and move to a safe place to stop. Dragging a TT with locked up brakes doesn't make that possible.
I have corrected the original post to make the correct sense.:W
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 03:48pm |
Towing
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
Safety Breakaway Switch
The contacts normally are held OPEN by the switch pin.
When the switch pin is pulled out, the contacts are allowed to CLOSE. This completes the circuit between battery and magnets allowing current to flow through the magnets.
When the switch pin is re-inserted, the contacts are OPENED. This breaks the connection between battery and magnets and current stops flowing.
Ron
As several have said, the breakaway switch is not the most robust thing you'll find. As Ron points out, to reset the switch the plastic key is reinserted, between and separating the contacts. I've seen where this reinsertion has damaged or bent the contacts as the components are a bit flimsy and never line up perfectly, doing more harm than good and necessitating some minor "surgery" with a pair of needle noses.
I'd leave it alone and just do periodic visual inspection to ensure that the key is all the way in, that the cable (lanyard) isn't frayed or damaged in any way, or that the cable is binding on anything.
Oh yeah, and always make sure that the point of attachment is NOT the same point of attachment for your safety chains, and that the lanyard is longer than the extended length of the chains under tension (so that the breakaway won't be activated before the chains go taught).
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 12:22pm |
Towing
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RE: Coupler Lock - what do you use?
I've used one of these PTO pins for years. You should be able to get them in the trailer section of any store that has one or a farm supply store.
Stu
I use one of those as well. You can also get them at Home Depot. If I'm planning on being away from the trailer (hooked to my truck or not), then I'll throw on the coupler lock (see the post above). I also use the Master Lock model.
PS, here in California it is illegal to tow without some sort of pin in the coupler, locking or otherwise. Not sure about any other states. Just an FYI for anyone reading the thread.
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MacRoadie
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04/25/12 12:07pm |
Towing
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RE: 1500 hd real world towing
I believe that the 1500HD used a 9.5", 14 bolt, semi-floating rear end like this:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_31_81&products_id=3234
The 2500HD uses this:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4160
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MacRoadie
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04/24/12 11:14am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Class IV to Class III adaptor
My new silverado came with the adapter and pin. Go back to the dealer for your pin.
true dat
Yep
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MacRoadie
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04/23/12 08:50pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 1500 hd real world towing
The standard rear end is an 8.25. I've got the same rear end as the 2500HD. 9.5 with disc brakes.
The standard rear is 9.5 for the 1500 and 2500LD. 10.5 for 2500HD/3500HD gas and 11.5 for diesel.
You don't have the same rear as a 2500HD
Maybe the 2500HD does have a 10.5 but the standard rear for a 2012 is 8.25. My 09 had one and my brother's 2012 5.3 has one. My rear end is a 14 bolt and my brother's is a 10 bolt. His has drums and mine has discs. Is mine a 10.5? They are obvious different. Mine is quite a bit larger. If you go to Chevy.com you'll see the max trailer package for the 1500 includes a 9.5 inch rearend. It's not standard on the 1500.
10.5" (2500HD) looks like this:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5127/5330403205_00f6d9372a_z.jpg
The 1500HD rear ends looked like this (without the MAG-HYTEC cover of course):
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5009/5330403169_086ac6d395_z.jpg
You'll notice they both have 14 bolts, but the 2500HD diff is much heavier. They are NOT the same rear end.
And here is the 1500HD I crawled under to take the photo:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5246/5330193125_cc98a5204c_z.jpg
And a couple more overviews:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5048/5330194159_79863dc562_z.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5089/5330193555_8b25df45b0_z.jpg
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MacRoadie
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04/23/12 08:43pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Class IV to Class III adaptor
Hey, just brought home the new TV, a nice 2011 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, I noticed it has the Class IV hitch, my WDH is a Class III, the dealer gave me an adaptor which converts it to a class III, but it is safe and I noticed the normal pin isn't long enough go all the way thru.
Am I ok to tow with the adaptor?
Can (and where) I buy a longer pin?
Thanks in advance!
Setting aside the whole "class" thing, there is nothing wrong with using the 2.5"-2" adapter for towing. It's what it's designed for. As for a longer pin, while they're not universally available yet, most auto parts stores (Pep Boys, O'Reilley's, etc) and RV shops do carry them. I think even Home Depot has started carrying them now.
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MacRoadie
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04/23/12 05:23pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 1500 hd real world towing
The standard rear end is an 8.25. I've got the same rear end as the 2500HD. 9.5 with disc brakes.
The standard rear is 9.5 for the 1500 and 2500LD. 10.5 for 2500HD/3500HD gas and 11.5 for diesel.
You don't have the same rear as a 2500HD
Bingo. The 2500HD gasser has a 10.5", 14-bolt full-float rear end.
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MacRoadie
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04/23/12 05:18pm |
Tow Vehicles
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