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RE: Solar or Generator?
Hi ktmrfs,
Parts for a solar system are running under $3.00 per watt. 160 watts would be $500.00 Where would you find a 2000 watt Honda for that price?
Twin Hondas are going to run to close to $2,000.00 plus the cost of a parallel cable kit. For that price 700 watts of solar could be installed, assuming enough roof real estate. That much solar may return nearly 300 amp-hours to the battery in a day.
I get 7 amps from my solar system in leafy shade and 2 to 3 amps in rain.
As to Solar not being portable--I'd better take them off the roof of my rv, eh?
You can get a Honda companion and a regular EU2000 plus the parallel kit from EDWISE for less than 2000.00 Free shipping, likely no tax. Brand New.
I am sure you realize that the "portable" comment was due to it not being attached to the TT. Change TTs and the generator can easily be used on the next one. If Solar is added to a TT, it most likely will go when it's sold.
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Huntindog
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05/18/12 01:21pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Opinions on UnderWeight Hitch Setup from dealer
Having too small of a WD hitch is no big deal. It will only distribute what it's rated for, and the truck will hold up the rest. However, as with anything mechanical it's much better to have too much than too little.
Get a 1200lb rated hitch like a Reese Dual Cam or Equal-i-zer, and you will be pleased with the results.
Wrong!
The bars are working springs. Too stiff a bar can damage the TT frame!
Some manufacturers print the different frame sizes and max bars sizes in the owners manual.
Even if the frame is strong enough for oversized bars, the best performance will be had with the "right" sized bars. When shopping for shoes, you don't buy ones that are too big and expect them to perform well... The same applies here.
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Huntindog
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05/16/12 04:54pm |
Towing
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RE: How long will the water stay good in my fresh water tank
The most important factor is...How good was the water to start with?
Next time you are at the grocery store, check the code dates on the bottled water. Those are really long codes, and they are very conservative.
Good water will last a VERY long time.
I use city water and haven't ever had a problem in over 20 years.
If your water is going bad in the tanks, then either it wasn't very good to start with,,,,,or you don't go camping often enough.:B
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Huntindog
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05/16/12 04:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: long hitch shank?
Be aware that if you are using an extra long shank it will derate your trucks receiver (carries less weight safely). I'd suggest you check your trucks receiver rating and compare to the loaded tongue weight of your trailer to be sure you're within what it can handle.
Good luck / Skip
That is just not true... some shanks with two holes have different #'s, but that is for the shank NOT THE RECEIVER.
Larry
I have to disagree with you, Larry. Adding a longer shank gives the trailer weight a larger lever to apply force to the truck with. More leverage means less effective capacity.
If you want to see this effect first hand, take a 10' long, 2" diameter pipe in insert it into your receiver. Now rest your body weight on the end of the pipe - you can make your truck sag more than your trailer. 250 lbs at 10' is the equivalent of 2500 lbs at 1'.
I've actually seen a shady autobody shop use a 10' pole to unbend a bent receiver after a crash - not a repair I'd want, but it does make it very clear how much leverage can affect these types of forces.
Not all that long ago we had a long thread on this.Shank length ratings Barney the moderator got some hitch manufacturers involved. Some engineers chimed in as well. The concensus after all the facts were in was that when weight distribution is used, a longer shank will not derate a reciever hitch as the WD conteracts the leverage effects that a longer shank otherwise would exert. I liked the way one engineer put it. "A first year engineer student would believe that a longer shank will derate a reciever, but a second year student will realize that when WD is used it will not derate a reciever"
Skip of course as usual was involved in that conversation as well...and still has his same opinion.
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Huntindog
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05/16/12 02:23am |
Towing
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RE: Pulling a Travel Trailer with a Dually
This is what happens when you pull a TT with a dually.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwOqARlw1EI
Do you seriously think your 1/2 ton would have fared better?
They were in a construction zone going slow, and a super strong wind gust just blew it over. It probably would've happened if they were stopped.
Stop living in denial.
Step up to a real truck and see the amazing difference for yourself.
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Huntindog
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05/15/12 05:27pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Honda eu2000i off Craigslist!
Sifter....
And you can sleep at night knowing you TOOK ADVANTAGE OF AN OLD MAN who didn't know the value of his equipment? It's a shame....
Sorry but this old man just had to vent. It's a cruel world out there for us old farts but not this one. I enjoy messing with reticulesas "offers".. Don't give me any crxp about, he got what he wanted, he was satified. Bottom line, he was taken advantage of....
I hope a number of folks can read this before it gets zapped but I think it's informative to our senior members who I think are a majority in our forums to check the value of their RV equptment sales. I can imagine how it would be easy to just "dump it" if we should lose our travel companion but why let some stranger reap on our loss? .... What else can I say.. ??? IMO..
Not all seniors are unable to make rational decisions.
The Honda was 3 years old with NO warranty.
They can be had brand new with warranty for less than 1000.00.
Half of new is a realistic asking price before negotioations start.
In 2009 that Honda was probably worth about 700.00 new. I know that's about what I paid in that time frame.
So the seller likely figured that it only cost him 100.00 per year.
It was a fair deal for both parties
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Huntindog
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05/15/12 01:31pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Electric stabilizers, elec tongue jack. elec awning,
I have all three now, and will never be without them again.
The power stabilizers come a couple of different ways. One system has a four motors and jacks,,similar to using the cordless drill on the manual ones. And with the same disadvantage.
The huge plus to the power jacks that have one motor lowering two legs is that they are self leveling. Both legs maintain equal pressure and it is IMPOSSIBLE to rack the frame with these.
This is important if you camp on any surface other than asphalt/concrete.
If you are skilled enough to lower all four jacks with a power drill equally, which is harder than it seems due to the way they work. Unless each jack is extended to same distance, then it WILL take differing amounts of torque on each one to achieve the same pressure on each one.
IF you can do this, then there is the ground settling issue. Each jack will settle into the ground a different amount creating a racked frame.
When I had the manual jacks I would have to re stabilize it every few days to fix this.
Now with the self leveling power jacks, the whole TT just gets loose, with NO racking of the frame. A quick touch of the buttons tightens it right up.
Sticking doors are a thing of the past. This has got to be better for the TT as well.
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Huntindog
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05/14/12 08:18pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Advantages of one system over another (WDH)
At 32' your TT is TOO long for a single friction device.
Any TT over about 6K or longer than about 25' requires TWO friction devices...It's right there in the manuals.
So all you really NEED is another friction device, and perhaps dialing in the WD system with the right sized bars.
I have used a single friction device, then a double, and now the EQUALIZER. AS far as I can tell from a seat of the pants feel, a double friction control is about the same as a EQUALIZER, which is about the same as the dual cam. There have been engineers on here doing the math and their figures are about what my experience has been.
The dual cam has one drawback that I consider serious. The bars run downhill and are very close to the ground on many installs.
That eliminated it from any consideration for me.
The only reason I got a EQUALIZER is that I wore out my standard WD hitch with friction sway controls. The friction controls were still OK, but the chains were about 1/2 way worn through and the bar ends about the same. So since I basically needed almost everything, I was able to sell what I had for parts and get the EQUALIZER for a better price than anything else.
I would have no problem using a friction control(s) with standard WD again.
In fact on a lightweight TT such as yours, it has a advantage.
Both the DC and the EQUALIZER rely on tounge weight for the sway control force. The greater the TW, the greater the sway control.
The friction controls with standard WD seperate the two functions. So you can dial up more sway controls regardless of how light your TW is.
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Huntindog
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05/03/12 08:03pm |
Towing
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RE: Springdale TT toilet water pressure
Some toilets have a screen in the water supply inlet that gets clogged with debri. Unscrew the hose where it goes into the toliet and see if there is a screen there.
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Huntindog
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05/03/12 02:28am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: First trip in new trailer and I broke it
Obviously the jack was defective, or possibly installed incorrectly by Keystone! And Keystone probably failed to put a warning label on the jack warning you not to drive off with the jacks down. So it's clearly Keystones fault!
You are also entitled to renumeration for the humiliation you suffered, and the trama you and your family had to endure because of this unfortunate incident.
And we will see to it that all medical bills will be re-inbursed.
We at the Firm would have been more than happy to represent you in a legal settlement...except you admitted complete responsibility!
Quote-"So my stupidity won't cost me money but it sure made me feel stupid."
So we regretably decline to represent you at this time. You're W-A-Y too honest and truthful for us!
The law team of Snagum, Screwem and GiveItToThem, Esq.
http://xtrvaluedvds.com/images/the-three-stooges-1.jpg height=120 width=120
Not so fast here. My firm has represented hundreds of clients just like him. He has suffered great mental anguish and needs immeadiate physicatric to keep from sinking into a deep and lasting depression. It is common for people in his condition to take full responsibility, even though they are in not in a sound state of mind to make such a decision.
We here at the legal begal law firm would be honored to take the case.
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Huntindog
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04/30/12 07:24pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Ford F-350 6.7L Dually 4x4 or Chevy 3500 LTZ 6.6 L
I am one of the lucky ones who gets to own a few different diesels at the same time. Currently I have an 2011 ford f350 drw and a 2011 gmc 2500.
There are personal pro's and cons for both truck. But we will stick with the positives
Ford has a nice roomy cab. Good storage under the seats, 4 cup holders in the front (if you get the center console), transmission shift points and feel are spot on. Hp is great for towing. Suspension feels much more capable
Gmc
Smooth ride, good power , the dash and compartment is all with in arms reach, engine compartment actually has some elbow room.
Here is the honestly when it comes time to hook up to the trailer. I look for my ford keys.
You look for the Ford keys because it's a 3500 DRW vs. a 2500 with only one set back there. Has little to do with brand I think.
Mav
I look for my Ford keys because of a few reasons performance being the biggest of them all.
Then your Ford is NOT stock!
Not dissing you, but with the mods I can see in your picture, I am sure that you have tuned the motor as well. Of course the Ford can use a little aftertmarket help. Stock the GMs whip them handily in test after test.
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Huntindog
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04/30/12 02:21pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Hand held electric drill for jacks
Has anyone used a battery powered drill for leveling jacks?
I see the "tool" for sale in RV stores, but, need to see what size drill folks are using. One of the things I like about the trailer we are buying is that it doesn't have the "factory electric jacks" where one motor adjusts two jack legs.
What size and brand are you aware of? Leaving in four days to "meet" our new rig. Sadly, the Holiday Rambler I show as ours was damaged beyond reasonable repair by a hail storm. We're moving on and up.
I used 14 volt Dewalt for years. It has more than enough power.
My new TT has the factory electric jacks where one motor adjust two legs.
I think that you may not understand how that system works and it's advantages.( I did not at first either)
The one motor turns a long screw that lowers both legs. The works, as in legs screw and motor are mounted in a long piece of channel steel that in turn is nested in a slightly larger piece of channel steel.
The smaller channel can slide inside the larger channel.
In operation both legs lower at the same time until the leg closest to the ground makes contact. It then stops lowering and as the motor coninues to run, the small channel slides inside the larger channel transfering all of the power to the leg that is still in the air until it hits the ground as well. Then both legs EVENLY apply force to the TT frame.
With this system it is impossible to rack the frame, as is quite easy to do with individual jacks, as has already been pointed out to you.
Using a power drill on individual jacks makes it real quick and easy to rack the frame.
Another advantage is that if you camp on any thing other than a hard surface such as concrete or asphalt, you can expect the jacks to settle into the ground. The settling will almost always not be equal, which if using individual jacks will result in a racked frame.
This won't happen with the factory power jacks. The entire TT will get "loose" but no racking will occur. A quick push of the buttons snugs it right back up.
On my old TT with the individual jacks I would often have to readjust the jacks to get rid of the racking that was causing the doors to stick,,,,only to have to do it all over again a day or two later.
So I seriously urge you to reconsider this feature.
I have used all of the stabilizing systems. First the old manual aluminum screw jacks, then the individual BAL type jacks with a cordless drill, and now the factory power system. Each step up was a big upgrade. I won't ever go back.
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Huntindog
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04/29/12 06:54pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New trailer pricing
Used asking prices are ridiculous. Notice I said asking not selling.
Many trying to sell a unit were upside down the day they bought it.
They don't realize it, so when they go to sell it they ask a inflated price.
There seem to be so many of them that the newcomer to the market thinks those are the going prices,,,,so I think quite a few sell for that.
Use this to your advantage.
For example: in 2000 I bought a Wilderness 26H for 15,500 brand new. Dealers were in the 26-28K range at the time.
In 2010 I washed it for it's first time, and cleaned the inside meticulously. I then sold it privately for 9,500. I used Craigs list and had buyers fighting to get to it first. The first guy put a $300 deposit on it in the AM, until I got home from work to finish the deal. Had a backup offer in the wings as well.
Ten years of hard use, camping in it at least two months every year cost me 6,000! The new owner was thrilled with the deal he had stumbled upon.
MY new TT was already in the drive way when I put the old one on the market. Paid about 24,000 and MSRP was over 37,000.
In order to get these deals, it is best to pay cash (nothing talks like cash.) for the new one and sell the old one yourself.
When buying, bargain hard. Money is power. When you have the money you have the power. The dealer wants it bad, much like a junkie needs a fix. Remember that once you give a dealer your money, you lose the power......Get what you want while you have the power.
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Huntindog
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04/28/12 07:48pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Why the difference in payload?
The diesel 5w vs TT difference is the hitch that GM supplies for the ball mount, is only rated to 13K lbs or whatever the number is. Used to be similar back in the day when a 10K hitch was the max one could get for a ball mount, and 5W hitches like today one can aftermarket them upwards of 25K lbs for pickups.
Reality is, there is NO safety difference, it is performance ONLY! look at the new SAE specs. for the most part, performance ratings only! Yeah one needs to keep things under x Gforces going around corners, or stop in Y feet, but, both of those measurements have NOTHING to do with engine power ratio's! As the brakes are the same, cornering will be the same, being as those are the only what I would call safety ratings, the rest is 0-40, can it pull a 12% grade 4 time forward and back in in 5 min with out slipping/overheating, pulling some 5-6% grade in 100F heat at a min speed which is on the way slow side for some of you, ie 30-40 mph and not overheat........all performance/warrenty items!
Some test have shown that the 6.0 gas with 6sp auto is not too far behind the dmax in speed on some hills. Why? the allison chews up 50-60 hp vs 30 for the 6l90e, so the 30 hp that the dmax has is a mute point! both have about 330 hp after the trans to get to the ground! The torque can be multiplied with gearing, as the 6l90 has a 4.1 first vs 3.1 for the allison. The allison has better gear splits for the lower revving diesel, the 6l90 a bit better for how the 6.0 revs.
Reality is, as noted by one, a 2500HD be it a diesel or gas, one has the power to pull what they want, but somewhere around 12-13K lbs, the tail WILL start wagging the dog, so that is about the max be it a 5W or TT I would pull with a 2500HD chassis. For the few with 6.0 dually's, those would be in the 17-18K range.
Marty
There have been a few posts stating what components are lighter duty with the 6.0. Although you are focused on the performance end of things,,,,If some of these lighter duty components should fail at the wrong time....It sure can be a safety concern.
The manufacturers won't be liable as they rated the truck properly.
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Huntindog
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04/28/12 04:34pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Coupler Lock - what do you use?
I don't use anything as since I (like we all should) use a WD hitch.
The TT simply cannot come off the ball even if it is purposely unlatched.
Try it. hitch up like normal. Then undo the latch. Now try to get the coupler off the ball. Use your tounge jack, or a floor jack etc.
It simply will NOT come of the ball.
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Huntindog
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04/28/12 04:18am |
Towing
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RE: Why the difference in payload?
Not payload, tow rating.
It's just further proof that "tow rating" is a PERFORMANCE rating, not a safety rating.
The only difference between the two trucks is the engine and transmission. Same tires, same axles, same brakes, same springs.
GM knows that the typical consumer will not be happy trying to tow much more than 9400lbs with a 6.0L engine.
that's quite a simplistic point of view.
With a different tranny behind the gasser, other things may be lighter duty as well. There are many possibilities, but lets take U joints as a example. If these are lighter, and one chooses to go over the tow rating using your thinking,,,,,and one breaks at the wrong time,,,it sure CAN be a safety issue.
The thing is that we don't always KNOW why a rating is lower. There can be obvious reasons, and some that are not.
The engineers have ALL the info and second guessing their judgement....May well prove to be a mistake.
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Huntindog
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04/27/12 02:18pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
I read and posted on the other thread. The concern was that his dealer's tech told him that the pin needed to be pulled to exercise it to prevent it from becoming stuck.
I know that it can happen as it has to me. I managed to get it unstuck, but destroyed the switch in the process. Since a tech is stating the same thing, I surmise that he must see a number of this type of failure.
The switch is located in a position that can subject it to a LOT of road grime.
I suppose that since a lot of posters here only tow in pristine conditions, that their switches will be subjected to much less road grime than mine...so their need to test their switch will be less, as it will be much less likely to have a failure.
My camping trips are always centered around a scheduled event. The event won't change it's date on account of bad weather.
So my switch will always see a lot of dust from the miles of dirt roads, and can see mud, snow, rain etc.
Sometimes I have thought about putting a carbiner on the teather, it would only make hooking up a little easier, but that little easier would mean I would probably keep putting off testing the switch.
I posted on the TECH side so that I could get some comment of depth and experience since my experience with dealer information has not always been the best. And one other point, merely because someone has "credentials" such as Tech or PhD doesn't mean they actually know what they are speaking about. So I measure things I am told by getting as much information from as many sources as possible. Then as a somewhat intelligent person I make a decision.
Hi Larry.
Wasn't sure if I should be offended or not by your response to my post.
So I took a few minutes to read a lot of your old posts. It gives me a feel for where you might be coming from.
Happy camping
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Huntindog
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04/26/12 08:05pm |
Towing
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
I read and posted on the other thread. The concern was that his dealer's tech told him that the pin needed to be pulled to exercise it to prevent it from becoming stuck.
I know that it can happen as it has to me. I managed to get it unstuck, but destroyed the switch in the process. Since a tech is stating the same thing, I surmise that he must see a number of this type of failure.
The switch is located in a position that can subject it to a LOT of road grime.
I suppose that since a lot of posters here only tow in pristine conditions, that their switches will be subjected to much less road grime than mine...so their need to test their switch will be less, as it will be much less likely to have a failure.
My camping trips are always centered around a scheduled event. The event won't change it's date on account of bad weather.
So my switch will always see a lot of dust from the miles of dirt roads, and can see mud, snow, rain etc.
Sometimes I have thought about putting a carbiner on the teather, it would only make hooking up a little easier, but that little easier would mean I would probably keep putting off testing the switch.
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Huntindog
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04/26/12 02:21am |
Towing
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RE: Help a newbie with a broken breakaway switch! Please.
I have had my first TT breakaway switch fail due to road grime/corrosion. When doing some maintainence I tried to pull it. Is was stuck bad, when I finally persuaded it out, the switch was in pieces. No idea how long it had been in that shape.
I put a new one on, and from then on I have been doing as your tech recommended. Remove the pin, loop the cable around the TV frame and reinsert the pin. 20 years plus and no more problems.
It's a easy habit/practice to get into and one can then be sure that it's working everytime you hitch up.
For those of you that NEVER pull the pin.... Are you sure it's still working?
Good point, and that does make sense, as I don't have a clue as to the condition of mine...
But, when you do pull the pin, how are you verifing that the trailer brakes are actually engaging? I would think you'd have to physically move the trailer forward to confirm that?
If that's what you are doing, great.. :) Otherwise, all you've done is pull the pin and put it back in?
Richard, Thanks for the proper name of the "thingy".. ;) I knew it was something like that, but couldn't get enough of the spelling to come close on Google! :)
Mitch
I can hear the magnets. That's as far as I feel the need to take it because if the magnets are energizing, then the shoes will contact the drum when it's moving, the same as when they are energized by the brake controler.
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Huntindog
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04/24/12 06:47pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Towing with ATV in the bed of the Pickup
http://www.bleucollarbrittanys.com/images/New%20Mexico%202008%20016.JPG height=400 width=600
This is a old pic of my 2001 truck and trailer.
My 2011 truck has much higher ratings, which is good as the new trailer is a lot heavier.
The quads weigh 800# each, The rack is about 400#.
Under the quads in the bed can be (depending on the trip) 40 gallons of gas, three 5 gallon propane tanks, and around 120 galons of water, 2 EU2000 generators and asst. odds & ends.
Definantly NOT 1/2 ton doable!
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Huntindog
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04/23/12 08:11pm |
Tow Vehicles
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