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RE: Best tire pressure monitoring system
I disagree that the survey is useless. There are certainly going to be differences of opinion, But I'm sure most people did a fair amount of research before putting down several hundred dollars for a system.
I spent several months and compared over a dozen systems before making a decision. Some of the criteria I used to maks a decision were:
1. Ease of use while on the road
2. Information available and cycle time on the display - hi pressure, low pressure, high temperature
3. Ease of programing
4. Portability of the display unit - does it always need to be plugged in, can it be hand held for monitoring when servicing tires
5. Life cycle and cost of replcement parts - how long the unit and sensors can be expected to be in service without major failures
6. Customer support - warranty and out of warranty support
7. Battery life and cost of replacement - user replaceable as opposed to factory replacement
8. Flexibility of the system - use on different configuration motorhome and toad combinations
Notice I didn't include initial cost as a criteria. I found some of the less expensive systems to have high replacement component cost, and high enough failure rates that they could quickly become the most expensive ones to own.
The one thing you can't determine before purchasing a system is ease and cost of installation. If you happen to have all the perfect size and configuration valve stems on your coach there is no additional cost. On the other hand if all the valve stems need to be replaced for either ease of access or room necessary for installation you could easily add another couple hundred dollars to the cost.
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Hikerdogs
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05/20/12 07:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Wow... tire prices. And 16 vs 18 ply?
This topic is always so interesting and realize some people just have to have the Top name brands but just for reference on my 295/75r/22.5, I bought Remington's 18 ply 10 years ago for 1900.00 out the door, I waited one year too long to replace them last year(had a rear blowout so Ill stick with the 8 year plan for now on) with Yokohama's 18 ply at 2300.00 out the door and surprisingly enough, the guy I bought these from said I could order Remington's again for about 2 grand out the door. Michelin's for 4-6000.00, Ill take my chances But as always, to each their own! :)
I think prices have increased dramatically since you bought your last set of tires. Last year I bought 2 Goodyear G670's for the front of our motorhome. At that time they were $315.00 each installed and balanced. This year it's time to replace the rear tires. So far every quote has been $540.00 per tire with mounting and balancing extra.
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Hikerdogs
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05/03/12 06:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dolly
Never had an issue keeping it at my site in any place I've stayed. I don't really ask, I just do it.
That doesn't work in all cases. There are a couple campgrounds in the Gatlinburg area that have a sign posted at the registration parking and on the registration desk that say dollies are not allowed at the campsites. They require you to unload the dolly and park it in the special lot before driving to your campsite.
I can understand their point in that the sites along the creek slope toward the water. It wouldn't take much to have one roll down the bank and into the creek. Personally I'd rather have it safe and sound in the fenced parking lot and not have to worry about it getting away.
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Hikerdogs
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04/25/12 06:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH jack slow on one corner
Although HWH recommends lubing the ram with ATF many of us use spray silicone with good success. Run it down all the way and spray the ram generously-let it set for a few minutes then retract it. It may take several applications to get it up to speed. Spray them all while you are at it.
Jim
It's been my experience that the ATF works best if there is any dirt, tar, or other crud on on the piston or seal. It has a high detergent content that will dissolve most crud. The silicone has no cleaning properties. It's only a lubricant. I would wipe down the rod with an ATF soaked cloth or paper towel. Then use an ATF soaked Q tip to get the crud off the seal under the lip of the casing. Wipe it all down with a clean cloth and apply some silicone.
I've done this procedure several times over the years. It always makes the slow jack function properly.
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Hikerdogs
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04/10/12 10:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Pressure Monitors
I was never a believer in the need for a TPMS system. We've driven our current motorhome almost 100,000 miles and put aover 1,000,000 miles on other cars and trucks without any monitoring system. However DW changed my mind last month.
Since we've had the system in our newest cars she's a believer. I have to admit it's a lot easier to just push a button to check tire pressure than to get out the gauge and crawl around on my hansd and knees.
I did a ton of reaearch and finally settled on the the TST 507 system for the motorhome and towed. I set up the sensors last week and plan to install them within a few days. It's not the least expensive system on the market but I believe it's a well designed user friendly system that will keep everyone in the family happy.
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Hikerdogs
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03/26/12 12:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Exploded view of a Roadmaster Sterling tow bar?
Using ronfisherman's link take a look at page 19 of the Sterling Towbar Owners manual. There's a picture with the description and part numbers of all the components of the Sterling Towbar.
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Hikerdogs
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03/17/12 02:35pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: winnebago disc brakes
Take Wolfe10's advice. We have been using our 01 Adventurer (on the Ford F53 chassis) for over 11 years and almost 100,000 miles without a brake issue. We've gone down the 12% grade for 12 miles into Skagway Alaska with our Jeep Wrangler in tow without worrying whether the brakes would hold.
The brake fluid has been changed and the pins have been lubed every 2 years. I did have to change the pads at 75,000 miles. The rears were getting thin, but the fronts still had 30% remaining.
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Hikerdogs
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03/16/12 07:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Equal and TPMS
I just purchased a TST 507 TPMS. They recommend not using Equal or any other balancing powder when using their system. Even the smallest amount of powder leaking by the screen can render the sensor inoperative.
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Hikerdogs
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03/16/12 04:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TST Internal Sensors
I just purchased the 507 system and opted for the new style external sensors. When talking to the people at TST they informed me that the internal sensors need to be returned to the factory for battery replacement just like the sensors for the 510 system.
The 507 external sensors have user replaceable batteries. They only last 1 year if left on the coach during storage period. However if they are removed from the valve stems the sensors are deactivated which extends the battery life.
The main reason I chose the 507 sensors with the user replaceable batteries was that I know as long as the sensor itself is in working condition I can replace the batteries in a matter of minutes. I don't have to send them in and be without them for 1 - 2 weeks. Also I don't have to worry about replacing batteries if the system is declared "obsolete" and is no longer supported.
This may be a minor concern to many, but I've found over the years that many companies declare products "obsolete" and stop supporting them long before they are worn out. We have tendency to keep things longer than most so not having to rely on someone else to service them is a plus.
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Hikerdogs
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03/16/12 04:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V-10 Engine
Hikerdogs, with 95,000 miles you are about due for some new spark plugs. Highly recommend you get it done at a good Ford garage. There is quite a procedure involved and that is one downside of the V10, getting those spark plugs changed out with no damage. I had the plugs changed out in my 2002 V10 a couple of months ago at 100,000 miles.
Somebody on the forum posted the procedure a while back. Not a project where you should just grab a spark plug wench and do it yourself.
I changed out the plugs a couple months ago. I followed the procedure outlined in the service manual and all went well. We just put another 4,000 miles on it last month and it still runs great. To tell the truth I think there were another 50,000 miles left on the original plugs. For the record the 310 hp version of the V10 came out in 2000. Ours has the heads with 8 threads to hold the plugs in place as opposed to the previous years with 4 threads.
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Hikerdogs
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03/10/12 04:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V-10 Engine
Have 02 V10 and tow a CRV also. I do not run with c/control in the hills. It is not good for trans to shift back and forth. On a hill I will shift down and go up to 3500 rpm for best power. I like to get a run at the hill so not to lug the engine. On level ground 2500 to 2700 rpm at 62mph...We have 49000 miles and plan on alot more..Safe Travels!!
We have the V 10 in a 2001 Winnebago and treat it almost identically. It now has 95,000 on it and is going strong. I've driven it faster but it likes to drink a lot more gas at the higher speeds.
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Hikerdogs
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03/05/12 06:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bye Bye Cheaters!
Getting pretty hard to do with analog odometers going the way of the Dodo bird. I guess if you are smart enough and had the software you could reprogram the computer to change it.
BTW when I was on the edge of buying my coach I got a Car Fax report. Since it was a Flordia coach was worried about past hurricane/flooding damage.
The only problem with CarFax is that the information compiled is all sent in voluntarily by member dealers or independent shops. If a non-member dealer of private business repairs a blown engine, transmission failure or other repair you'll never know it happened.
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Hikerdogs
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03/03/12 06:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Brakes
I changed out the pads on our 01 F53 chassis in late 2009 at 75,000 miles. The fronts still had about 25% of the material left but the rears were down to paper thin. Unlike a car the motorhome chassis uses a 50-50 front to rear braking ratio. Most cars are 70% front and 30% rear. Since the rear axle carries almost double the weight of the front the pads wear out quicker.
When doing research as to which pads to buy I found prices all over the map. I finally decided to look at the specs as well as the prices. I was somewhat surprised to find the less expensive pads had considerably less material than either the originals or the more expensive aftermarket ones.
I was going to replace them with another set of Ford pads but unfortunately the local Ford dealer was out of them. I ended up with NAPA brand premium quality pads. They were about $80.00 per axle. I don't know if it applies to all model years, but in 2001 the front and rear pads are identical. We're now closing in on 100,000 miles and the brake pads still look like new. They stop the coach perfectly and don't leave a ton of brake dust on the wheels.
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Hikerdogs
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02/26/12 03:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Manually moving Tow Dolly after vehicle unloaded
Our Roadmaster dolly weighs 750 lbs. I can move it easily with 1 hand on level ground. However now a days when we move it I always have my wife walk along side with a chock or a block of wood. A few years ago we unloaded the car then unhooked the dolly to park it. We were on an almost unnoticeable decline. Once the dolly was unhooked I moved it about a foot before it started to drag me along. Try as hard as I could I couldn’t stop it. The farther we went the more speed we gained. The only thing that stopped us from losing it was an alert fellow camper that threw a chunk of firewood under a wheel.
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Hikerdogs
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02/25/12 12:16pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: tow bars
It all depends on what you're going to use the Jeep for. If you're going to do any off roading I wold use a hitch monted tow bar. The last thing you want going down the trails or over the rocks is 50 lbs of hardware hanging out in front. With the hitch mounted style the only thing remaining on the Jeep will be a couple of brackets that are flush with the bumper.
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Hikerdogs
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02/24/12 04:46am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: F53 Lug Nuts
You will have to find the torque value for your '98 chassis.
It is not 450 ft pounds.
My 2000 F53 is lug nuts are torqued to about 150 ft pounds, 19.5 inch tires. I use a breaker bar, around 28 inches long with a 1/2 inch socket and a torque wrench, about 20 inches, to tighten.
We have the same wheels on the same chassis as yours. The original torque value was 150 lbs. About a year later we got a letter from Ford changing the torque value to 165 lbs. The letter said the new torque value applied to 1999 - 2003 F53 chassis.
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Hikerdogs
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02/22/12 05:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tow dolly for different vehicles
Take a look at the Roadmaster 2000-1. It can be assembled in 2 positions, either at a 93.5" or 101.5" axle width. We've used ours in the wider position to tow a Buick Lesabre.
Here's a link to the website:
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/towdolly/towdolly.html#RoadMastertowdolly
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Hikerdogs
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02/21/12 06:58am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: The 96 Monaco Exec I want to buy has Aged Out Tires...
The time for negotiating is long past. We had a similar situation when trying to buy a new motorhome a few years ago. After the price was negotiated,but before the papers were signed the dealer changed his mind and wanted $300.00 more than the negotiated price.
We told him we've already negotiated a price and that he should stick with it. When he refused we said we'd "have to think about it". The next day I called another dealer and offered him $500.00 less than the price we originally negotiated with the previous dealer. He immediatly said yes so we went over and signed the papers.
The original dealer called back every day for 2 weeks trying to get us to agree to a higher price. I finally told him we weren't interested, and that we not only wouldn't pay an additional #300.00 but actually got a better price. How would a seller or buyer be able to trust the other party on any negotiated price if one wants to change the terms after they've both agreed on something.
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Hikerdogs
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02/08/12 07:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How many out there still use a car dolly for your toad?
We used to tow our Buick LeSabre on a Roadmaster dolly. After several years of towing it along then parking it while we rented a Jeep we decided to just buy a Jeep and tow it with us 4 down. We still have the Jeep and enjoy the off road experience. However it is a rough ride and doesn't have all the conveniences of our Buick Lucerne.
We still have the dolly stored in the garage. At some point in time we may get tired of the Jeep and switch back to the cushy ride of the Buick. At that time we'll get the dolly out of the garage, dust it off, put on some new tires and take the Buick with us. I don't see it happening in the near future, but it doesn't cost anything to store the dolly and there's plenty of room.
Selling the dolly for 1/2 or less than we paid for it then buying another one for twice the price of the original a couple years in the future doesn't make much sense.
To me there isn't much difference in weight or effort to use the dolly. Both systems have their pros and cons. They're just different. As willald mentioned if you do the research and buy one that is designed so you don't have to crwawl through the mud and doesn't require a contortionist to load you can use it for many years without problems.
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Hikerdogs
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02/06/12 07:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Purchasing DirecTv through Sam's Club
Talk to the people at DirecTV before you make a purchase. We have Directv for both home and the RV. We purchased the box and dish for the motorhome way back when they were offering the entire system for customer ownership. Later when we added the house, component ownership through DirecTv was no longer available. We could "lease" a box and dish for an initial payment of $69.00 plus a $5.00 per month fee.
Here's the catch. You could buy the equiment from another supplier BUT there was a $69.00 connection fee plus the same $5.00 monthly service fee. The only difference was if you leased the equipment and something failed they diagnosed the problem and replaced any defective component free. If you owned the equipment there was an $80.00 service call fee, and you were responsible for replacing defective components. Needless to say since the costs were the same we chose to "lease" the equipment and let them worry about service and replacements.
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Hikerdogs
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02/05/12 07:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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