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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Trac bar (panhard bar)
I saw your blog but could not find anything that metioned the trac bar?
Nor I. I have a F53 chassis, but would still like to get some ideas.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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02/05/12 12:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: adding an inverter where is yours?
Keep it as close to your battery(s) as possible. Even a little 500W can draw about 40 amps on the 12V side. The further away you are from the battery, the larger your input wire must be to maintain peak inverter performance.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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12/26/11 06:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford 460 smog pump
Not sure if you have the same belt configuration in your 1997 as I have in my 1991 460, but with the smog pump, I was using a 5060505 belt. When I removed the pump, I used a smaller 5060475 belt without an adapter pulley.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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09/12/11 09:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford 460 smog pump
Not sure about the catalytic converter, but you will need a smaller belt.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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09/11/11 12:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F-53 Toe-in setting
Jerry B,
... And yes, you do have to pull the wheel to reset it. And yes, it's a DUMB way of adjustment....
Scott
They did it that way so you can adjust it while driving.:S
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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08/30/11 12:12am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Engine Thermostat
The thermostat is at the back of the engine......through the dog house is the only way to access mine......
Strange, they must have changed locations sometime after 1991. On my 460EFI, it is all the way to the front on top of the manifold, just right of the distributor.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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08/21/11 09:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Engine Thermostat
So you are saying your dog house does not give you full access to the top of your engine? That could pose a problem for maintenance to several other components as well. Belts, hoses, distributor, etc.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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08/20/11 09:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing Vinyl Sticker from Exterior
Those things get nasty looking after several years. I removed the one on my 1991 a few months ago. Not sure when the previous owner put it on. I though I was going to have to use heat also, but it actually came off fairly easy with carefull use of a "razor sharp" wood chisel. My problem is that it left some shadowing where there were empty states. I tried wet block sanding the entire area with 1000-grit paper, bleach, Barkeeper's Friend, etc, but it still shows in the right light. Not sure what's going to happen when I try-out the Red Max Pro application.
Kris
Kris that sounds like our story on our 1993. We finally to the the Red Max Pro 3 application yesterday and in the right light (like early this morning before the sun was up good) I can see the map outline but I expect most would never find it. The professional finish left by Red Max Pro makes the MH look so good people are not looking for shadows of old stickers. It hides nothing when looking straight on in not super bright lighting.
When leaving the house early this AM to go get the Koni FSD shocks installed I had not gone 200 feet until I caught a limb down the side. It sounded bad but when I got to the shop I could not see any marks so Red Max Pro must have gotten quite hard overnight.
Thanks, Gale
I was a bit worried that the RMP might intensify the shadowing.
Not that it would have stopped me from trying it out anyway.
I have a few other blemishes to address before applying the RMP.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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08/17/11 10:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing Vinyl Sticker from Exterior
Those things get nasty looking after several years. I removed the one on my 1991 a few months ago. Not sure when the previous owner put it on. I though I was going to have to use heat also, but it actually came off fairly easy with carefull use of a "razor sharp" wood chisel. My problem is that it left some shadowing where there were empty states. I tried wet block sanding the entire area with 1000-grit paper, bleach, Barkeeper's Friend, etc, but it still shows in the right light. Not sure what's going to happen when I try-out the Red Max Pro application.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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08/17/11 05:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Koni FSD Shocks - Where's the best deal?
Replaced 4-year old Monroe's on front of F53 with Koni FSD.
Koni Part #8805-1018
Ordered 2ea from Partwerks.net for $317.52 (Free Shipping)
Order Date 6/23/11
Drop ship to me from Koni and got them 7/7/11
I installed them 7/8/11
Yet to be tested...
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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07/22/11 11:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Too Steep a Grade?
Thanks for the advise, everyone.
There are two other campgrounds down lower: Tree Phones CG at 4800 feet and Ahtanum CG at 3150 feet. If I don't check-out the road up to Clover Flats CG ahead of time in my Bronco, I will camp and ride the ATV's out from one of those and play it safe.
I really enjoy the air at higher altitudes and the stars at night, but if it means cooking my transmission to do so, it's not worth it.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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06/12/11 10:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Too Steep a Grade?
Clover Flats Campground which is located on DNR land about 34 miles west southwest of Yakima, WA. Elevation is 6300 feet. Supposedly the last three miles of the one-lane gravel road is a 12-13% grade. I will be towing a small aluminum trailer, no brakes, with 2 4-wheelers (approx 1500 lbs total trailer) in my 31-foot gasser (1991 Holiday Rambler F53).
What do you think?
--Piece of cake.
--Just take it easy.
--Check it out in a lesser vehicle first.
--Let me out, I'll walk.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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06/12/11 01:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Engine cleaning
A can of engine degreaser would probably make the least mess. Expect to do a little hand/brush scrubbing to get the thicker stuff off. If you can hook a garden hose to your washing machine inlet to get some hot water, that might help also to soften the grease and keep your hands from freezing. I would advise against hooking any end to the hose as the hot water could weaken the hose with pressure on it.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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04/19/11 09:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: fuel pump removal
On my 1991 Holiday Rambler, there is a side access cover in the basement compartment that gives access to the top of the fuel tank. The problem I had is that there was not enough room between the top of the tank and the bottom of the floor (heater ducting) to change the pump.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_9pVDpl1ueqw/TZ5NZv55VpI/AAAAAAAAAc0/KUHhACp-Z3o/Access.JPG
So I ended up having to cut the hold-down tubes on the fuel pump.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_9pVDpl1ueqw/TZ5NaEpQGoI/AAAAAAAAAc8/17zA1MN4v1s/Cutting.JPG
And then re-secure them with using collars with set screws.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_9pVDpl1ueqw/TZ5NZEU1zcI/AAAAAAAAAcw/Sd0VBOesbSk/Collars.JPG
That way, I was able to easily get the fuel pump in the tank with the collars disconected.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_9pVDpl1ueqw/TZ5NbC3ZllI/AAAAAAAAAdA/4bEwhNyy3Sc/Install.JPG
Then, with a drop of blue Loctite on the set screws, re-install the collars on the hold-down tubes, and procede with finishing the job.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_9pVDpl1ueqw/TZ5NZ1kwR4I/AAAAAAAAAc4/syUfEiZB4_A/Tighten.JPG
The reason I decided to not drop the tank was that I previously had to change the filler vent hose. Due to the tight clearences between the hose, hose clamp, tank, and frame, I had a difficult time with that job. Dropping the tank probably would have required removing this hose and the bigger filler hose, and I didn't want to do it again.
I did not want to cut a hole in the floor because my heater ducting would have also had to be cut and somehow re-sealed.
Also, if I allready have a spare pump allready cut and collared, I figure I could change it out again anywhere I happen to break down in about a ½-hour with no special tools or jacks required.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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04/07/11 06:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Hot Water Heater
Make sure the bypass valve between inlet and outlet of the tank is closed.
Kris
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FuelFunnel
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02/22/11 05:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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