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RE: I have wondered this for years
n4hwl,
There's a number of answers for this situation. One, the pipes or, plumbing in most coaches is not insulated, and depending on certain conditions, that hot water pipe leading to your shower valve can cool off pretty darn fast since there's no insulation to hold in the heat. Second, and this is rare but can happen, if someone flushes a toilet, runs a kitchen or bathroom faucet for even an instant, it can deplete the hot water in lines even just a slight amount which, can cause the situation you experience.
Sometimes if, you have one of those little shut off valves at the shower head to keep your settings but, still shut the water off, some of them let the water run a tiny bit so as to remind you that you DO have the water on. Well, that little valve can have an effect on your mixings too for a short instant.
Our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD Diesel, doesn't seem to have that problem like our last coach, a '99 Bounder 34V with the F-53 Chassis did. In that coach, we too did the side step to clear the plumbing of "cold" water prior each and every time we'd need to rinse.
Certainly a good question though.
Scott
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05/25/12 11:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Keeping Honda CVR Battery Charged
want-a-be,
Yes Sir, you can pick up power from the trailer plug on the RV. That plug is usually supplied with a 12GA wire on the coach side. When I recently set up our 2011 CRV for towing, I ran a 12 or 10GA wire from the toad side of that plug, all the way to the positive on the CRV battery.
Now, I don't disconnect any fuse in the CRV at all. That fuse, the one they want me to disconnect, is the most pain in the a.. fuse to get to so, I just don't do it. So far, we've towed all over the place and the CRV's battery is topped off in state of charge, each and every time I disconnect from the coach.
Now, while I've not set up a secondary braking system yet, the fact that the CRV's ignition is partially on due to the steering wheel unlock position, there is some draw on the battery. The charge coming from the coach is way more than than the draw on the CRV battery. It's easy to do what you're asking about.
Scott
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05/25/12 11:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Hwy 550 from Durango to Ouray, Colorado
People drive it every day in larger motorhomes towing. Semi's drive it every day with supplies. Yep, it's windy, yes it has some tight turns, yes much of it is steep, But, it's done every day and by lots of folks like yourselves. Just drive it. The capabilities of each individual driver, and the tolerances of him/her and the spouse in situations/roads like that are just that, INDIVIDUAL.
What some think is no big deal, others will not even try. It's up to all of us to determine what we will tolerate. I've done that road, several times, with large RVs, smaller RVs, towing toads and, ridden it on motorcycles. We love that area. It's some of the nicest scenery in Colorado. There are only a few sections that you are "tight". The rest, is pretty dog gone good.
I don't know if any of you recall it or not, but, that road was featured on a TV show called "Dangerous Drives". Two family members, a father and son were a team in hauling fuel from Montrose to Durango, if I recall. They did it in good weather and bad. Knowing that road like I do, that's a pretty good feat. Anyway, enough rambling. If you choose not to take this road, that's perfectly fine. It does have some serious elevation and, the absence of guard rails had the ability to intimidate many. It's phenomenal scenery.
Scott
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05/19/12 11:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bicycle carrier???
msmith1199,
Nice of you to remember it. That first pic was taken at the Circus Circus. I forgot it was also known as a KOA. That was when we had our Jeep. We've towed Jeeps all over the planet, conquered every rut, hill, obstacle, mountain trail, desert trail, Moab UT, Ouray/Silverton CO, and many more places in those darn Jeeps. Now, it's time to relax and enjoy the U.S. "On" the road instead of off. Thanks again.
Scott
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05/18/12 03:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bicycle carrier???
superglue,
There's plenty of them out there. Many are good brands and quality. This is the one I used on our Jeep with a 35" tire mounted in the stock postion on our Jeep, you'll see in the picture. It's made by "Xsport"
Bike rack for jeep
Here's a shot of it on our jeep. You don't need any hitch extenders or anything eles. Our two bikes fit with ease.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0234.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0477.jpg
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05/18/12 12:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie Question About Towing With a DP
armyeng,
While you most likely will have not too many issues, the main one will be POWER. Like most of the auto industry, the later the product, the more refined and better performance. If you're planning on a '90s unit, a very large percentage of them used around a 250-275 HP version of the Cummins engine and around the same in CAT.
Many of those rigs are pretty darn heavy too. Now, Cummins for the most part, will allow the use of a "Banks" system to augment the power output and, friends have done it. I must say, one in particular has a '99 Fleetwood Discovery that has the 275 Cummins in it and he's pretty hard to keep up with grades, even towing.
But when it comes to CAT, the later ones can utilize a "Chip" to enhance performance and based on some reports from users on the CAT forum, most are pretty happy. I've installed the Aero 5050XL muffler and while it's a tad louder, I'm not all that sure I gained very much.
My point, just don't expect to "zing" up most grades with the older units and towing your Jeep. Don't get me wrong here, you'll make it from point A to point B ok. My motto's always been, try and find the lightest and possibly shortest rig with the largest diesel you can. Back then, not too many existed in that combo. Even into the later years, they're hard to find in that combo. Country Coach put out a 34' with a 400 HP Cummins and I'm not sure but, I think Travel Supreme did one also.
Good luck and happy RVing.
Scott
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05/18/12 07:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing chassis battery
Two Travelers,
Not to worry. Just think. There's probably around a few hundred thousand RVs sitting at storage yards, homes, RV repair establishments etc. all over the U.S. that have all the chassis batteries completely dead. And, they've been that way for months. All most folks do is, either charge them up enough to start them or, go buy a new set, install them and start the rigs up. You'll be fine.
Scott
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05/17/12 07:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Colorado mountain passes
Casmar,
You'll have no trouble. Yep, they have some turns, some grades and they have some height, around almost 12,000' tops. People do it every day. I've drove that road on motorcycles, Class C's towing Jeeps, Class A Gas rigs towing jeeps and we just did it last summer with our 36' Diesel Itasca towing our jeep and carrying our Honda Goldwing on the back. You can't drive it fast anyway because of the amount and steepness of the turns. Yes, there's no guard rail, big deal. You simply pay attention and drive.
It's just like driving the 89 from Flagstaff to Sedona, seriously down hill with a ton of turns and yep, it's tight. Done it several times towing. They're not race courses, just mountain roads with turns. Enjoy.
If you've been on it before, you know it's one of the most scenic roads in Colorado to be on. Enjoy the drive, you'll fit in any tunnel on that road. Once past Red Mountain pass, it's basically all down hill from there to Durango.
Scott
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05/17/12 06:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: now what
It's sold, so it is a moot point.
maybe. if there is gross misrepresentation of the item or an intent to defraud by the seller the buyer may have an out but otherwise i think you may be correct...acceptance of the bid is likely a binding contract enforceable in court. it may be worth the relatively small cost to consult an atty in the seller's state to see what if any rights the buyer has.
To the OP and others,
When we were on the lookout for an RV, I ventured onto ebay and found and incredibly nice rig. The gent (seller) had about 100 pictures and, the description was long and seriously detailed. The price at starting was considerably lower than you just bought that one for. So, I got real interested. Before I placed my first bid, I contacted the seller. Now, this deal, was to me, very unique because, the seller specifically stated, "If you wind this bid, no matter what the winning bid was/is, and you fly to our town, (we live in So CAL and the rig was in York PA) we pick you up at the AP, drive you to the rig, you inspect it to your satisfaction, test drive it to your satisfaction, and must be totally satisfied with the total picture.
But, if you're not in any way totally satisfied, you can walk away from it with no issues what so ever and we'll take you back to the AP.
Now to me, that kind of a deal, while a sort of "sight unseen" deal, was as close to being there and seeing one before committing as one can get. And, the seller was willing to let the winning bid walk.
Now, to the OP. That rig is incredibly close to the one we have. It's four feet longer and, some of the interior arrangement is a tad different but, as I understand it, the Winne Vectra and Itasca Horizon of that model year are sister ships. I looked at a couple of Vectras and Horizons of the 40' range and they were the "AD" models. And, as confirmed in the pictures of the one you just purchased, it shows the kitchen sink that disappears when the slide is in.
Now, some parks and campgrounds are too close to have your slides out (rare but happens) and to us, no access to the sink in the kitchen because of those circumstances, was not acceptable. But, there's quite a few of those models running around out there so, it must not bother too many folks. Hope it all works out for you. We love our Itasca Horizon.
Scott
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05/17/12 08:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: A&E Door Awning Motor
mcc1229,
I'm not sure what earlier posts you're referring to but, I posted a very similar situation with mine a few weeks ago. There are some differences in the two posts though. Mine is a "Carefree of Colorado" and yours is an "A&E". Now, what's kind of odd is, the control box, located in the lower basement compartment, just to the rear of the right front wheel, has the monikers "A&E" by Dometic, WeatherPro awning control. Now, in that box, is relays and a printed circuit board and more.
First, I don't know if you've got that same kind of box. Second, in my issue, my door awning would go out but, not retract because the "elbows" in the awning would extend to the point that they would "straighten out" completely. Then, when I pushed the button to retract the awning, it would not over come the resistance of trying to "fold" those elbows. If I pre-folded them for it, it would bring that awning all the way in.
Second, in my pre-analysis of the problem, I hooked up an auxiliary battery I had laying around, directly to the motor terminal leads. That awning zipped right in and out, as many times as I wanted it to. So, the motor was/is good, but things leading to that motor are not. So, at this point in time, it still works but, I just don't extend it all the way out.
Now, are you completely sure it's the motor? Just for grins and re-assurance, you might try what I did and that's hooking a known, good quality battery directly to the leads on that motor. If, at that time, you have no movement, in or out, then your theory about a bad motor is confirmed. Just a suggestion here. Hope you find the answer.
Scott
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05/16/12 02:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Inverter question.... how do you work that thing?
Nui,
Scott here. As has been suggested, these folks that are trying to lend a hand in your dilemma need a bit more info so they can give a qualified answer. Things like:
1. Year, make and model of motor home
2. Gas or diesel engine
3. If possible, Make, model number and size of Inverter
4. Any panels etc. that make use of a central point for turning things on like water heater, inverter, water pump, generator etc.
You see, info supplied like the above will help folks who have the same year and model of coach can really get you going fast. Others can help too with that info. On most coaches supplied with larger inverters from the factory, like say, a 1500 watt or larger, will power all the outlets with that inverter and or, generator or shore power.
And, like what's been suggested, if you find a switch for that inverter, and figure out how to best use it, then use it and when you're done, turn if off. I hope this helps some.
Scott
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05/14/12 08:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Step won't stay open on 2005 Itasca Horizon 40ad
Look for a small magnetic micro switch on the door jam close to the latches.
Sometimes it is just held on with double sided tape. If you brush something against it it can come loose and is then not close enough to the door for the magnet to trip the switch.
Mine is about 1/4 by 1 in in size.
If I open the screen door, the steps open; if I close e screen door, the steps close. That would indicate to me that the door switch is working correctly, no?
Yes Sir,
You are correct in that part of the steps operational characteristics. Then, depending on the step control switch's position, it should extend and then "not" go back in even if the screen door is opened and closed. That is until the key is put either in the ACC or ON position. In that case, the step will extend and retract each time the door is opened and closed. If I'm not mistaken, there's one more mode. And that is, the step stays in, even if the key is in the ACC or ON position. Now, I could be wrong on this last part, not sure.
I would use that last mode if, I figured I had parked too close to a curb and know the step would try and extend right into the concrete. Don't know if any of this info helps or not.
Scott
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05/13/12 11:47am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bent step frame
wayneandylarson,
Whether or not you use a step support is irrelevant at this point. We've used them for years without issue. I personally believe that it's of great value based on the fact that as far as I can see and figure out, that little operation arm, the cast aluminum one that comes off the motor, is the only thing that takes the HAMMERING as you step in and out of the coach.
I've had to replace that arm and got lucky because normally you have to buy a lot more than just the arm.
Anyway, now to your problem. Long story short, I bent the heck out of ours one day because it was starting to misbehave now and then and would not retract when the ignition was on and the door closed. So, I went to move the coach and drive it through a tight opening and that step was out and I did not know it. BANG!
Well, needless to say, I said some not so choice words. Anyway, I removed the step system and began to ascertain what needed to be done to get her back into working order.
Well, I was going to do what Tsalla suggested and start removing those pivoting rivets. I decided to try some "Chiropractic" adjustments. I tied and clamped a portion of it to the work table in the middle of the garage and then, tied onto the part that needed bending to my Jeep. I put the Jeep in drive and slowly started bending the entire step system ( a two step version) back to normal settings. I had to go over by about 5-10% for spring back.
Well, I backed off and saw that I had created progress. I did it all again and added a few percent. I let it spring back and, low and behold, it was dead straight. One the work table, it moved in and out without any hesitation and or binding of any type. I was surprised that the damage that was done, did not actually break something. It just bent things up pretty good.
I re-installed the whole system and lubed all the pivot points. I hooked up the motor, actuating arm and wires. Opened the door and zap, that step system never worked so good. In-out, in-out, in-out, several times. No issues what so ever.
Now, are you able to get the same results as I did, well, that depends on how bad yours was bent and what kind of resources you have for putting her back to straight. I kind of develop a "MacGyver" thought process when something like this happens.
Now, why didn't I just simply order up a new set of steps you ask? Because at the time, no matter where I looked, IF you could find the two step system, it was no less than around $275.00 and, normally it was an entire new system, motor and wiring included. I only needed the steps. So, some ropes, clamps, a jeep, some hoping and praying and it's back on the coach.
Scott
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05/12/12 02:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Re-coating a MH roof - What did you use?
Hershey,
To do it right, it's a pretty intense project. Some have had luck with just a wash and re coat with a commercial coating. I looked pretty deep into it and found the the "Dicor" product at Camping World. It's a three step operation. A hard wash with a good brush and soap and water. Then, a "Prep/primer" coating that has to be pressure washed off. Then, two coats of Dicor coating.
When done, it looked way better than new. That was three years ago and it still looks that way and it too, does not get covered when not in use.
Now, like one of your answers suggested, if I were going to keep that rig for quite a while, I'd seriously look into a sprayed on coating like a bed liner in a pick up. There's a few companies around the states that do it and man is it slick. And the good part, you NEVER have to touch it again and even better, IT'S INCREDIBLY DURABLE. No worry about tree limbs and walking on etc. And, it's way better sound proofing and water proofing than the rubber ever was. Just a suggestion here.
The last I heard, it was around $3500.00, plus or minus and you give them the coach and you get it back all done.
Scott
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05/12/12 11:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: This is my clicky clicky
All the fancy new phones out there are making Americans devoid of writing skills. We look like lazy idiots to the rest of the world.
Dang I'm getting cantankerous..
Man, if that ain't the truth. This "TEXTING"******is fine for the teens but, I need to read a better explanation of a problem or, a fix for a problem. I'm with ya ScottG
Scott
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05/11/12 10:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: My Wife passed her training!!
Gang,
The D/W has been driving all of our RVs for 30 years. I taught the kids to drive them to, both at 16 years old. As stated, you never know when an emergency might occur and you need an alternate driver. Well, it's happened to me twice and both times, the rig was loaded to the gills with a full trailer with all the desert toys etc.
I had broken two ribs on an ATV and was in moderately bad shape when we returned to camp. They got me into the coach, all the folks around our camp immediately loaded all the toys, my son, who was 17 at the time "ordered" the D/W to stay by me and he jumped in the driver seat. He motored that thing all the way home like a pro.
My daughter was also driving at 16 with our M/H and towing our Jeep to the Easter Jeep Safari at Moab UT. Now, and for years, I'd have no problem letting them drive even our latest Diesel rig. In fact, even when I get a tad tired, the D/W jumps right in and I can take my mind and eyes off the road for some short ZZZZZ. After that, I ask if she's ready to relinquish the wheel.
So, yes, by all means, even if they're a bit apprehensive, get them to at least handle that rig for short terms to get you to medical help if needed.
Scott
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05/10/12 08:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Foggy Window Repair
terryB149,
I've heard lot of good things about Suncoast in FL. I've heard they come to you, (within a reasonabl distance of course), pull the window, put in a temp patch, take yours back to the shop, rebuild it completely, come back and re-install it back into your coach. To date, I don't think I've read any about any displeased folks who've used them.
Scott
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05/10/12 08:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Roof versus Basement A/C Units.
Larry,
We have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD Diesel with the 330 CAT. It has the basement air. When we first purchased this rig, we'd only had roof units up 'till then and for the most part, were pretty satisfied with their performance. I'm not too worried about "potential" roof leaks as, after four of them, we've never had a leak in any roof vent, A/C unit, antenna mount and more.
Now, many on the Winne and Itasca sites have expressed claims of basement units being too loud and noisy as compared to the previous roof units they had. Some have complained about them not being as effecient as the roof units they had. Some have found duct work behind the unit that was partially disabled and therefore not, transferring all the cold air to the needed areas of the coach.
In the time we've owned ours and, used it, it's been pretty darn good. We've ran it at night, once or twice, depending on the need, and I don't recall it waking us up during sleeping hours. Anythings going to make some noise, just how much and, just how sensitive the people are that are in the coach will certainly vary.
My advice, try and find a friend that has a basement A/C unit and run it for a bit and then compare it to a roof air unit to really get a good feeling for your evaluation.
Yep, it does take up a compartment but, so far, that's of no consequence to us. I've got all my stuff neatly stored in the compartments I do have available. Hope this helps some.
Scott
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05/10/12 03:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Mountain driving
They called and said there was a significant temperature differential between the top of the rad and the bottom and they recommended a rod and core as there appeared to be a restriction inside the rad.
This seems like flawed logic. If the radiator is dissipating heat correctly, shouldn't the coolant temperature decline as it flows from top to bottom? Thus the radiator its self will be significantly cooler on the bottom.
Richard
This has my attention since your post. :)If the radiator is significantly hotter on the top of the core than on the bottom, that would be an indication of poor flow and the radiator would need to be 'rodded out' or recored.
Ok Gang,
Although I've been around for a while, I must be missing something there. Let's start with some basics. As the engine runs, it gets hot due to friction. That in tern, heats the water/A/F in the water jackets. Now, here comes the water pump. It pumps the water from the block to the radiator. The water/anti-freeze flows into the TOP of the radiator on a vertical flow radiator, correct? I mean I've never seen a cooling system in a auto or anything that the water enters the BOTTOM of the radiator.
So, with that said, wouldn't the water/a/f entering the top of radiator be the HOTTEST temp, and then COOLS as it drifts/flows down through the tubes, until it hits the bottom of the radiator and lower tank where, it's now a lot cooler than it was in the TOP of the radiator? Correct?
So, to the OP, when they called you, and said there's significant temp difference in the radiator, did they tell you which was hotter, top or bottom? I mean, I would think that, if the radiator had some junk inside, and it was in the lower part of the tubes, that (1), you would have a pressure build in the system due to impeded flow and, (2), it would run hot all the time, not just on hills or grades due to impeded flow and insufficient cooling at all times?
I'm definitely trying to understand this situation here. And, one more thing, "12 MPG" on a D/P, WOW!!!!!!!! Were you towing anything?
On our trip home from Sparks/Reno NV to San Diego with our recently acquired '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT, no toad, no load, only a full fuel tank and 1/2 tank of fresh water and, a constant speed of 60-62 with the cruise on for 700 of the 750 miles, I barely eeked out 7.5-8 MPG.
I couldn't get 12 MPG out of ours if it was dropped from a C5-A Galaxy at 50,000 feet. It would still get 7.0 mpg.
Scott
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05/10/12 10:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Sleep number mattress issue(s)
It's not for everyone. I've never had any experience with them until I bought my Journey 3 yrs. ago. The wife and I both think it's just great. I have lower back pain and the SN is the only thing I've been able to get a good nights sleep on.
Rodz,
Roger that Sir. Glad it works for you and anyone else. It's a mechanical device, (bed) and therefore, prone to possible technical failure. All of us humanoids are built different. You can put 5 men on one of those beds, all at the same height, weight, and build, keep the bed at the same setting and you will most likely get 5 different opinions. But, as long as it works for you and the DW, that's great. Enjoy.
Scott
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05/09/12 03:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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