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RE: Importing Class A to Ontario, Canada

Futhurmore, I should add that having a US resident drive the US plated MH into Canada would result in having to drive the MH back to the states in order to process it for import into Canada.
Certain specific documents must be provided 72 hours in advance to the US Customs office at the border crossing you intend to cross for Canadian import.
The whole process is really quite easy if you follow instructions on both sides of the border prior to the import, but you need to make certain that you have crossed all your t's and dotted all the i's beforehand.
It is really simple and pain free, and cost effective, import other than the Federal & Provincial is about $225.00, not sure about Ontario safety inspection, cost about $110.00 here in Quebec, the Canadian Tire inspection is basically the day time running lights must be operative, and that's it.
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Edouard
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05/22/12 03:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Importing Class A to Ontario, Canada

I was infact told this once, back in the 80's, when returning from vacation to Canada with our plated RV, the inspector was surprised that we had in fact paid all the import dutie's & tax's which years ago was quite high, pre-free trade agreement.
He even asked to see the import duty papers, which we did have in our position, and expressed surprise on what we had paid. We were not disturbed, we still saved thousands had we bought the rv in Canada.
He informed me that some people were caught registering their rv in the states, then attempting to drive it to Canada on vacation, or for whatever reason, while they were canadian residents. Those rv's were seized.
Now I would assume that if may be acceptable if the vehicle or rv were rentals.
When we imported our most recent MH, we had a temporary plate from Arizona on it when crossing the border, importing was really a very simple formality.
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Edouard
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05/22/12 03:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rv Parking in Ottawa, On. Canada

Good morning all, thanks for the fine quick replies. We did phone the Municipal campground last nite and had to leave a msg, will try again today, and do appreciate it's a long weekend.
Had not thought of the Park & Ride, that will be a great location, were come from the east, the malls east are also good considerations.\\Again thanks all.,Edouard.
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Edouard
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05/20/12 04:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Rv Parking in Ottawa, On. Canada

Hi,
Short notice, we're heading to visit our national capital, Ottawa tomorrow morning, to take in the Tulip Festival, plus other tourist attractions, for a couple of days.
Does anyone know if we can park our 36 foot motorhome close enough to use public transit? Perhaps a large mall, or even paid parking if necessary for the day, while we walk the downtown area.
We will not have our toad as we will be 6 persons, so need to find near enough parking of the rv. We'll decide on an overnite campground later in the day.
Thanks in advance.
Edouard.
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Edouard
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05/19/12 06:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Seabreeze Motorhome

Hi, as noted below, we have an 08 National Dolphin, 2008 was the last production year for National before they went bankrupt, as did many in 2008, which we acquired in May 09 with 6,000 miles, no fear that National had already closed, a very well put together coach.
I believe there were 3 Gas powered National madels in 08, Surfside being the entry level, then Sea Breeze and then Dolphin.
Personally I think that Sea Breeze and Dolphin are very close in feature level, I would be hard pressed to point them out the differences.
All told, National had a very good reputation for building a quality RV. There are RV Forums for the National Product, you can google to find them.
Here is a site where you can pull up several original documents/sales flyers etc on 2008 or any year National product. Good luck with your purchase plans.
http://www.nationalrv.org/
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Edouard
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04/29/12 07:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shopping for a 36 foot Diesel

Great tread, glad you came back with final decision, Tiffin Phaeton is a really good choice in today's marketplace. Look forward to hearing more from you and Photos please, so we can all gaulk and be envious. All the best luck going forward and hope to meet you down the road.
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Edouard
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04/29/12 05:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: First Trip Towing TOAD - STATS

Yes, we really like our 2010 Equinox, pulling it since late 2009, we average 8-9MPH, depending on trip/grades etc. Great toad.
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Edouard
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04/29/12 05:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Spare Tire on DP

If you blow a dual, just pull it and run a single on that side. If you blow a front, pull a dual and mount on the front. That is if you've got the tools to do the tire change.
Now that is a new idea if I ever heard one, and I like it, it makes sense, both logical and economical. You could still have roadside to make the necessary work if you are not able of willing to do so.
Granted, you would need to move along at a more common sense speed, to protect possible heat build-up on that single dual, until you reach a place where you can acquire the right tire.
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Edouard
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04/29/12 05:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trailer Life Campground Navigator 2011 vs 2012

I find as with most things, that updating in a year, two or three is usually not worth the price of the original outlay of funds of buying the first year version.
Better off waiting a couple of years, ie: 2013 or 2014. JMHO
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Edouard
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04/29/12 05:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Electric Air Horns

On our rig, I found out that I had to disconnect the regular chassis horns in order to have the roof mounted air horns to function. Worth a try, good Luck.
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Edouard
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04/05/12 05:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Awning Issue

07 Pace Arrow w/ Weathermaster awning.
The awning deploys perfect. Now when detracting, whether on shore power, gen or engine running it is like it doesn't have enough juice to detract all the way.
Starts, comes in about a foot, wait a few minutes, again about a foot. Eventually it seems once about 3/4 in it retracts all the way.
Any thoughts? Thx
We had the same problem a few weeks ago, after going through several senerio's, I went ahead as suggested and wound two add'l turns on the rear arm torsion spring, did the trick, now the awning retracts fine.
The motor is in the front arm tube, the spring is in the rear arm end of the tube.
The motor quits because there is a thermo switch which sense's the motor straining and cuts the power for 30 seconds, then you can press the retract button and it continues until the switch sense's strain and it cuts out again, great safety, motor does not overheat and burn out.
For instructions on how to wind the torsion spring in the rear arm end of the tube go the the web site of the brand awning you have. You will need 2 maybe three helpers and some ladders to get the job done. Good luck.
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Edouard
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03/21/12 12:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

Cleaned the rods on the struts, then lubed the rods and all moving parts, nylon bushings etc. with heavy duty silicone, no help.
Today, I removed and wound the left/rear tube arm spring 2 extra turns, did the trick, the awning now retracts completely.
Add'l issue to point out now is that the aluminium frame at the top of the strut, but front and rear appear to be beginning to bow, flexed outward due to the nitrogen strut pressure, especially on retraction of the awning.
Is anyone aware if the struts need replacing due to higher pressure, due to age and/or due to continued exposure to the heat/direct sunlight?
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Edouard
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03/14/12 04:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

wa8yxm: I did monitor the battery when retracting the awning, it basically stays at the float charge of 13.3v plus/minus .1 or so, until the awning motor stops turning, it then drops to 12.6,7 and 8, motor clicks off. 30 seconds later I can rewind another couple turns with same volt results.
Believe I need to address the springs in the roller tube, give each side a 1-2 add'l turns to assist the motor in pushing against the nitrogen struts.
Will try this today and see what it gives.
It's the chassis 12v battery that powers the awning,slides, jacks, and it's on a float charge from my Xantrex invert/charger, maintaining 13.3 volts, but the cigarette type 3 light tester is giving a charge weakness with a yellow & green light lit most of the time, even though I have a reading of 13.3v, battery is about 5 years old.
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Edouard
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03/14/12 07:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

Using jumpers to test a sold ground made no difference, hence, not a ground issue.
Did another Load Test today, about a 20% improvement after the last re-charge, and probally since the Trojan T-105's are holding a higher charge in float maintenance mode, and both Specific Gravity level's in both bat's are about 1.290, voltage is 6.44 & 6.40 respectively, so apparently they are doing fine.
Still do not know why only the batterie's have been providing the house with 12 volt over the past 4 months, and not the Invert/charger as designed, but right now as is well.
I may look into buying the Basic Remote Control by Xantrex to have a better daily look at the charge/battery/amps situation.. Thanks again.
memiufan;;;; Not certain about chassis bat's on the 03 HR endeavour, give Monaco/HR a call, they should be able to help.
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Edouard
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03/08/12 05:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

try putting a jumper cable to a good ground on the frame then to the negative post on the batteries and see if it makes a differance?
I had a similar thing and it was a bad ground at the frame.big headache simple fix.
I will give that jumper cable/ground test tomorrow.. But UPDATE, since doing the Load Test after turning off the Inverter/charger, and then turning the charger back on, we now have sufficient voltage to Extend/Rewind the patio awning, and also the Front window shade.
Also read since in the Xantrex Manual that indeed the charger provides 12v to the house, rather than using the battery bank power, but why it was not doing so for the past many months is a mystery to me. Apparently the charger was in a non complete function mode, which is not mentioned in the manual.
I will be doing another Load Test tomorrow to see if the batteries have improved since turning the charger back on, we'll post results. Thanks for all the input.
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Edouard
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03/07/12 05:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

Measured from frame ground (not a cable) what is the battery voltage under load? Any issues when you add a auto type charger?
It's certainly possible with the charger not working that the batteries just need a overnight charge. You should have about 13.2V on shore power with charged batteries. My charger maintains that voltage regardess of load, actually 13.1-13.9 depending upon temperature.
The battery voltage under load is under 9 volts with my 100amp load tester. I do not have my Auto Type charger available on this trip.
My Xantrex inverter/charger after a load test, the charger puts out 14.4v for some time until it drops to 13.2-3v thereafter. I have 13.2v on shore power with charged batteries. My charger does maintain that voltage, after an overnight charge, but I cannot retract my main awning, it only turns a couple of turns a couple of turns then cuts out, pause a minute or two, then another turn or so. The same thing occurs when I try to put up or down my windshield shade.
Am I correct to assume the Xantrex invert./charger should maintain sufficient amps under load, or is it dependant on the actual batteries ability to provide sufficient amps?
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Edouard
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03/06/12 02:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

Batteries & connections are clean, acid level is correct and maintained, voltage when charger is on is 13.+ volts, when off it's 12.6 approx. It's only when putting a load on there is insufficient voltage apparently. I do have a DVM, that's how I posted voltage in my OP.
I will be picking up a Load Tester today, will than do a Load test and proceed from there. Thanks everyone.
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Edouard
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03/05/12 07:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Deep Cycle Battery Replacement

We've been experiencing lack of 12 volt ability to raise/lower our window shade, and extending/retracting the auto awning, waiting several minutes and several attempts to operate them.
The 2 x 6 volt interstate deep cycle's are about 5 years old, their specific gravity are about 1275-1300 in the green zone, and showing 12.6 average when taking a reading, but fail to provide ample voltage when needed as mentioned above. No apparent issue to operate the Norcold 12 volt function, water pump on occasion, etc.
I am of the opinion that the Xantrex inverter/converter/charger should be providing 12 volt when we are connected to shore power, but it appears that not to be the case, anyone have imput on this?
In doing a search here it appears people have good results with BJ's, Walmart and Costco deep cycle golf cart batt's.
Where should I look to pick up a decent deal on a couple of deep cycle batteries? Thanks.
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Edouard
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03/04/12 10:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2012 Equinox any one use as a Toad

Did the baseplate & wiring myself, pretty clear instructions when we got our 2010 Equinox, we love it, many more features than CR-V, great ride, gas mileage, and tows great aswell.
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Edouard
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12/13/11 09:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold 1210 IM Climate Control???

Thanks Doug, I will let you know how it works out. I will see if one of my camper friends here has a later version 1210 to see what you are talking about. Thanks again. Edouard.
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Edouard
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12/07/11 10:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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