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RE: Winne-will not start
....It will not plugged up and using the starting switch. I will buy a circuit checker tomorrow to read the fuse connections and any other that i can see. Also all the other things Ya'll suggested. THANKS GUYS VERY MUCH !!!!
...When I turn on the switch the fuel pump does run a few seconds and stops. turn switch off wait awhile back on and it repeats. I am going out now and break the fuel line coming in at the throttle body and see if any fuel is coming through. Tks again guys. These 2 quotes seem to be in conflict with one another.
Here is the pinout for the 7427 ECM. The fuel pump relay is pin B12
ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/manuals/16197427/95pcm2.jpg
Link to all of the pinouts:
ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/manuals/16197427/
So even if the pump is not running, you can monitor the pin and see if it changes state when the ignition is turned on or when you are cranking.
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Daveinet
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02/09/12 07:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winne-will not start
Hi, one more try, it sounds like you are not getting power to the computer. If I remember right the computer controls the voltage to the injectors, initially, it applies a voltage to operate the front one, and as the engine warms up it starts cutting/thinning the gas that the TBI squirts into the manifold, leaner and leaner until the oxygen senser stops it. So you need to reset your computer. I think you disconnect the battery for some period of time, 30 minutes comes to mind. with the ignition off reconnect it. Then try it again. this is a simple procedure that could fix the problem. Also you might check and see if there is a computer fuze. Also,the house batteries should have no function in the engine running, they are normally isolated to prevent the house from running the chassis battery down. charlie in texasAre you sure? I have spent many many hours studying the '95 GM ECM, I have never heard of seen anything like that. Some TBI systems have a cold start additional injector, but not the '93 - 95' 747 ECM. Cold start is blipped to put fuel in the engine, and then as it cranks, it pulse the injectors to start. Once the engine starts, it runs in open loop until it warms up. Fuel mixture for open loop is primarily determined by MAP sensor and RPM VS temp. As the engine warms up, the fuel table is screwed, until the O2 sensor is warm enough to read accurately, and then it goes into closed loop. Fuel is still determined by the MAP vs RPM table, and then fudged based on O2 readings. Either way, this will have no bearing on the engine starting. Besides, the initial pulse of the injectors when the key is first turned on, will put enough fuel in it to fire the engine momentarily, even if it never fires the injectors after that.
The fuel pump is probably working, so look farther down the line. Either clogs somewhere, or I have another one for you. Smack each injector with the back side of a screw driver. I have seen the injectors stick, which of course it won't run after that - hence the smacking. I highly doubt the code reader will tell you anything. The fact that it runs says that the ECM thinks everything is OK. I can't think of any instance where the ECM would spark, but attempt to run the injectors. You can take a light bulb to the injector wire as suggested. That should give you warm fuzzies that the injectors are being told to fire. You should be able to do all your testing just by turning the key, as when you turn the ignition on, it fires the injectors momentarily to spill a little extra fuel in the manifold to prepare the engine to start. Mine, I can actually hear the injectors click when I turn the key. If you want, put a small plastic hose with one end touching the injector, and the other end to your ear. You should be able to hear the click.
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Daveinet
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02/09/12 04:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winne-will not start
HI, if you drove it home and something failed, you must be able to trace it to the source. If you can spray starter fluid down the manifold and it will run you have a fuel problem, period, no guessing, filters will usually clog slowly and you will lose power gradually. There are several ways to do this. Determine if you have fuel at the injectors, throttle body assembly, the gadget that sits on the manifold opening. You may be able to take the fuel lime loose at the small filter near it. Turn the ignition on, the fuel pump will run for a few seconds and stop if some things does not happen, like engine start, oil pressure up etc. I suspect the fuel pump is not working or has lost the power to work. hope this helps, charlie in texasThis guy is right, if it will run on starting fluid, the problem is limited to fuel delivery, no need to look at unrelated electrical. When you first turn your key, the fuel pump will blip for about 5 seconds and the injectors will pulse. This means that you would see a slight spray when you first turn the key on. The fuel will be under pressure at that point, so you should see fuel pressure with any release of any fuel fittings. Make sure you here the pump blip when you first turn the key. If you don't, start there. There should be a fuel pump relay, but I have no idea where to find it in your coach. Additional info: Once you turn the key, if you turn it back off, you need to wait about 30 seconds before turning it back on, otherwise the ECM knows it just blipped the pump and won't blip it again.
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Daveinet
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02/09/12 11:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: My kid sprayed OFF (insect repellant) on plexi-glass door
Buff it with toothpaste! Yep, toothpaste has has polishing compounds in it that is great for motorcycle windshields, headlamps, and compact discs, or anything else that is plastic and supposed to be transparent.
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Daveinet
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02/09/12 11:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Used MH with TV back in living room?
Check out Rexhall. On those years, the TV was behind the passenger seat, so it was obviously angled. It also came with a fireplace in the same area :)
http://montana.craigslist.org/rvs/2834547149.html
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/rvs/2806439266.html
http://spokane.craigslist.org/rvs/2802973983.html
not a diesel, but shows the layout. Nearly this same layout was available in a DP
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/rvd/2833718127.html
Here is the search engine to use for searching Craigslist:
www.craiggers.com/#!/search/all/all/rexhall
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Daveinet
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02/08/12 11:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trac bar (panhard bar)
Daveinet-I assume you added a trac bar to your rig-Did you build or buy-I sounds like you are satisfied with the addition of trac bar-I hope it does at least a little-This old rig actually rides fine but I still can feel the semi's going by-And you are right a little movement multipies as the distance gets further-I can't understand why some one like henderson or roadmaster hasn't made one for the older Bounders Thanks RICHI built my own. About 35 bucks for 2 swivel bearings. Took 2 pieces of angle iron, welded a nut on one end of each piece. Ran the swivel bearing through the nut and then tightened with a jam nut. Welded a grade 8 bolt to the spring bracket. On the other side, I had a piece of scrap steel that I welded to the frame. Installed the on the swivel bearings on each bolt. Clamped the 2 pieces of angle iron together and welded them.
Performance wise, it improves steering response and increases body roll. Yes, that is a trade off, but the increased body roll is tolerable because you have much greater control by the increased steering response and the body roll is only slight and very controlled. Its not an out of control type body roll.
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Daveinet
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02/07/12 11:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trac bar (panhard bar)
IMO track bar with leaf springs won't make much of a difference. Coil spring or air suspensions needs a track bar.To reinforce what Brett stated, I measured about a 1/4 of movement in either direction before installing the trac bar. You might not think that small movement is noticeable from 20 feet away (front seat), but what it did was remove the understeer I had when towing my Cherokee.
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Daveinet
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02/06/12 06:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trac bar (panhard bar)
Don't know if I would do that again-Rich You don't know how many jobs I've said that about.
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Daveinet
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02/04/12 09:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is HD TV That Important
A couple of things. First of all, none of these networks are truly broadcasting HD. All of it runs variable compression to something less than HD. The only true HD is off air with an antenna. Even at that, most of the stations are renting so many subchannels that they don't really broadcast in true HD either. As far as what the eye can see, one may not see the higher resolution, but typically your eye detects much better contrast and depth of field from viewing in 1080P.
The other thing to consider is how good your tv upconverts, as that will have a significant effect on how good standard definition looks. I've discovered my old Hitachi plasma upconverts extremely well. I often watch stuff on YouTube from the HDMI output on my laptop. I have been amazed at how much better it looks on the TV than on my laptop screen. Things that blur together on the laptop look clear on the TV. I've since bought a second TV and boy is it disappointing compared to the Hitachi.
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Daveinet
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02/04/12 05:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Carefree RV resorts don't play by their own rules
Such an announcement would be hard to do with a microphone shoved down their throat. Be glad they didn't start mowing the lawn. I've run into that on more than one occasion.
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Daveinet
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02/04/12 04:47pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Trac bar (panhard bar)
DIY trac bar is simpler to do than most people think. I built one for my coach, to correct a problem I had when towing. The swival bearing ends can be purchased from any bearing shop. Everything else can be purchased from a hardware store.
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Daveinet
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02/04/12 04:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: length rules ?
I remember reading on a racing form, probably a drag racing form, that the poster was told that having RV NOT FOR HIRE PRIVATE COACH on the toterhome meant nothing to the authorities in that state.
That state considered that if you raced for any prize money or had any type of sponsorship involved that you were a commercial vehicle and had to comply with the commercial license requirements. Registration, CDL rules, etc.
Unfortunately I don't remember which state.The reason you don't remember is that it applies to every state. I would look into what it would take to form a not-for-profit. The other trick you could do is form a corporation and rent the RV to your race company. If you are renting it, most states have no requirements for rentals, other than your normal car license.
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Daveinet
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02/04/12 04:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV Steps
Actually there is simpler solution. Cut out the side of the stairwell large enough to store the dirty shoes under one of the steps. I've never figured out why there are not cut outs in the stair wells to stash shoes. Ours pile up behind the dinette chairs. Its kind of a pain.
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Daveinet
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02/03/12 04:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Selling DP, new tires or not?
No, especially if there is decent tread. If the tires look to be in good shape, most people are not going to look at the age. Yes, there are the folk on this forum who will look, but no one else will. I can promise you, you will not get any more for the coach, new tires or not. When it comes right down to it, the only people who will pay extra for new tires are the same ones who will go out and buy tires because of the age. Even at that, the money is still the same. If new tires cost 2500 buck, the buyer is not going to pay 3000 more for the coach. Even if it becomes part of the negotiation, The buyer may ask you to knock off 2500 bucks for tires, and you turn around and split the difference.
Its really all a marketing game anyway. Ask 2500 bucks higher than you want to get for it, and then offer a discount for 2500 bucks and the buyer will think he is getting a deal.
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Daveinet
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02/03/12 04:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Thinking About Calling It Quits
There have been some wild predictions of fuel prices, but I think they are just someone's imagination. The fact is that when prices go up, people drive less, use less fuel, which decreases demand, which in turn decreases prices. So when the price goes up, it will level off pretty quick. There is just not enough money in the economy to support that high of a price. We've seen where that high plateau is, and the economy has no more money this year than it did last year.
As others have suggested, take shorter trips. Even at 5 bucks a gallon, fuel is not the biggest expense on a 300 or 400 mile trip. I can think of a lot of places within 300 miles of my house that I would rather be than home. Many of those places I've been before, but don't get tired of them.
When I posted the above paragraph, I didn't notice you were fulltiming. I'm guessing then fuel prices are not your biggest concern, but maybe income as a result of investment devaluation. Makes me not sure I have a good answer.
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Daveinet
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02/01/12 04:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: High End Smaller Class A
If you can afford high end, then you could probably pay someone to custom build it in any length you want. For what purpose do you desire a short coach? If you want short, is 23 feet short enough? http://www.gmccoop.com/23d.htm If that is too small, then maybe this is better: http://www.gmccoop.com/Cruz%27in.htm more pics http://www.gmccoop.com/paint.htm
Either way, you end up with a diesel front wheel drive on a custom chassis, and a well recognized shell, but its a brand new coach. Got 400 grand?
BTW: This is America, bigger is better, if a little is good, more is better.
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Daveinet
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01/31/12 01:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie's Need Help with Rear End
Don't use plywood. Plywood is not waterproof. Use rigid foam and fiberglass. Do some reading on DIY boat construction. There is a ton of info on the web about boat building and and vacuum bagging. You frame up the shape of the exterior. Lay the foam inside the shape. Fiberglass the inside. Lift it off the frame and fiberglass the outside. Take a look at F-boat.com. While they are not telling you how to do it, there is plenty of photos as to how it is done.
Check out West System. Pretty much everyone agrees they make the best Epoxy.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Vacuum-Bagging-Techniques.pdf
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Daveinet
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01/30/12 11:29am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Another Towing Question
Ready Break is simple and works well. Variably breaking is a must, and if adjusted correctly, it works very well. I've been very pleased with the setup.
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Daveinet
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01/30/12 11:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: front end alignment balance
Shimmy can be bad shocks or wheel balance.
If you need and alignment, go to http://www.jolietsuspension.com/ they work on heavy trucks, and have the equipment to easily work on an RV. They are also fairly inexpensive.
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Daveinet
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01/30/12 11:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: LCD, LED, Plasma difference and recommendations?
LED and LCD are the same just back or side lightedYou comment may be misleading, as your statement only applies to LED TVs. There are actually THREE types of LCD. The original ones were FLORESCENT edge lit. If it doesn't specify the back lighting, it will be florescent.
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Daveinet
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01/28/12 06:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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