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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Advice on an rv trip from los angeles to west vancouver
Any more thoughts, snapon? :)
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BobsYourUncle
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05/15/12 10:28pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Advice on an rv trip from los angeles to west vancouver
Do you have activities planned for your stay in Vancouver?
There are a lot of things to do and see in this area. So much in fact, that you could spend a couple weeks and only touch the surface.
One outing I highly recommend is from Capilano RV, take a day trip to Whistler. Where you will be staying is a short hop from the highway that takes you there. The drive is very scenic and Whistler is a very beautiful place to see. Keep in mind it is a mountain and you are at a higher elevation, so bring a sweater.
Another suggestion is to take the Langdale ferry from Horseshoe Bay (only about a 7 mile drive from Cap RV) and go to Gibsons, the place where they used to shoot the old TV series the Beachcombers. From Gibsons, take the highway to Sechelt, another beautiful place to visit. The scenery is breathtaking all the way. Be sure to check the ferry prices at BCFerries.com first though. They zap you pretty hard, but at that location you only pay one way, so it is free to get back to West Van.
Another thing that is very close to Cap RV is Grouse Mountain. Follow Capilano Road all the way to the top and take the tram up the mountain for an absolutely breathtaking view of Vancouver and area. There is a very nice restaurant up there and many other things to do and see. Places to hike, interesting things to look at and so on. Don't forget the camera. BTW, the restaurant is rather pricey. You can eat at some of the other places there.
Also on Capilano Road, on the way up to Grouse Mountain is the famous Capilano Suspension Bridge. Not for the weak of heart! Walk across the bridge and enjoy some unbelievable nature walks and much more.
Don't forget to visit Stanley Park, which is just across the Lions Gate Bridge and you are extremely close to there at Cap RV park.
I could go on and on, as there is so much to see and do there.
I live about 25 miles from Cailano RV Park.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/15/12 12:26am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Honda eu2000i off Craigslist!
Wow! Great deal!
You have me beat - I got my EU2000i off Craigslist for $550. last year. And mine was rather beat up with part of the housing melted near the muffler.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/13/12 12:43am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: astro van rooftop air
This ought to about fix it up!
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/tifi-airconditioned.jpg
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BobsYourUncle
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05/13/12 12:19am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Forum is nearly unusable
I run into that myself sometimes, several times recently in the past couple weeks.
When it happens I log in via Woodalls and I almost always have no trouble there.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/13/12 12:06am |
Forum Technical Support
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RE: New fridge not cold. What did I forget?
I hate to ask the obvious, but was your camper level?
I know my old Dometic is very fussy about being level or else it doesn't cool effectively.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/13/12 12:02am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Kreg jig
:h
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BobsYourUncle
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05/12/12 11:59pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Re-doing a ceiling
It is a big job, but it can be done.
I rebuilt a TT in my driveway and have lots of pics.
The principle and concept of replacing a TT roof or a MH roof really is the same. If yours is all wood framed like mine was, then check out my TT rebuild, link in my sig.
Go to Gallery 5 for the roof rebuild.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/09/12 12:09am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Floor rot at door, anyone been through it?
OK, here we go!!!!
Repairing the floor inside the door is not too bad of a job to do:
Your application may differ slightly but the basic technique will be the same.
Here is how I did mine:
What I will do with this description is describe my application, yours may be the same or slightly different. I think most things will apply here. If something in yours varies a lot from mine, then techniques will have to be modified.
I am going to assume you have some basic knowledge of things here, so when I say remove this or that I won’t have to detail getting out a screwdriver and taking a screw out!! :B
First the obvious – the door must be removed. Simple and straightforward, remove the plastic trim over the door frame, if present, remove all the screws and pull the door out. It is likely stuck real good with butyl tape so you may have to get a bar in there and g e n t l y pry to get it loose.
You will need to access the floor and the bottom of the wall. Don’t get scared, it isn’t hard to do.
You will have to remove the bottom row of siding, and most likely your wheel well molding too, depending if your door is located similar to mine. And the awning arm bracket will have to come off too.
You will find it is way easier to just simply take stuff off that is in the way rather than trying to work around it. Trust me on that one, it is way easier!
I thought I had more pics than these, but at least you can see the basic steps.
Once you get the bottom row of siding off (if yours has siding), you will need to separate the walls from the floor. Usually they are held together with screws from the bottom plate of the wall going down into the outside floor framing member. It can be a bit tricky to get them out. Make sure you have the right driver bit and a drill. BE SURE you don’t strip the head out, otherwise you will have to get between the floor and the wall with a recip saw and a metal blade and cut the screws. You may have to do that anyways. Driving a long wedge between the wall and floor will force it apart a bit so you can get a saw blade in there. Make sure the saw blade doesn’t go inside and mar your flooring up. The wall will have to be separated from the door all the way to the next transition in framing, that is depending on the location of your door, from the door to the wheel well, and from the door to the front of the trailer. (or rear)
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix1.JPG
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix2.JPG
Oops, I think this is going to turn into a small novel…. Sorry, I have a habit of getting quite descriptive.
I will assume you have lino flooring. I removed the bench from my dinette so I could cut the lino and lift it up, so I could put it back down without having to buy new flooring. Screws holding it the floor are inside, going down through the framing into the floor. Your application will differ from mine. Look at my pics and see the idea is to cut the floor underneath something so you don’t see the cut when you put it all back together. Mine was a bit awkward inside my door to the left and I tore it a bit trying to pull it out of the way. But if you don’t tell anyone, I won’t either!! :B
So make sure you pull out any simple things attached to the floor that will be in the way of the repair. If you have a full height partition or something, then you will have to leave it in place for the repair and get creative about cutting the lino at the edge.
Next you need to literally lift the side of your trailer off the floor. Again, don’t get scared, it’s no big deal. Put a piece of 2X4, cut to length inside the top of your door opening. Get out a hydraulic jack and another 2X4, cut to length to sit under the top of the door opening and on top of the jack. Do this from the ground outside. Your trailer will tilt sideways and lift up until you see the wall begin to separate from the floor. It’s OK, these things will take a lot of bending and stress. They are designed to bend and flex a lot as they go down the road. Now MAKE SURE that you do have the wall disconnected from the floor all the way along as described. Other wise you will be jacking forever if you forgot a fastener or 3. This is important. Once you see the wall separating from the floor, keep going until you have about ¼ to ½ inch of space. Don’t get too carried away here. Once you can see separation from the wall to floor, Get another 2X4, cut to length to jam under your door opening and to the ground outside to hold it in place. I did mine on my concrete driveway, not dirt or grass. If you are on dirt or grass, then put a piece of plywood or something down first.
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix3.JPG
Now cut your lino, under something so you won’t see the cut, get down on your knees and pray that it is not glued down, (mine wasn’t) and after your prayer, lift the lino up and out of the way and gently fold it over, being careful not to crunch it flat. I used a pair of work boots to hold it in place.
Oh gads I’m getting long winded here. It’s OK, you may take a break now, go have a cold beer and come back to work. Have one for me too.
Once the lino is pulled up, you can assess the damage.
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix4.JPG
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix5.JPG
It is important to remove ALL rotten plywood flooring. You will need to cut the floor back to the nearest support (joist). Remove all rotten plywood flooring. And pull out and discard all the soggy insulation. Then there is all the gross disgusting white fungus covered schmoo you will encounter. Get some rubber gloves and get it all out of there. I used a very stiff solution of bleach and water to spray everything down after removal. This will kill the fungus spores.
Now you have to examine the floor joists and determine how far the rot goes. It is really really important to replace all the rotten floor joists. They will need to be cut somewhere back into a solid area. Remove all rotten wood.
Now you need to duplicate the old joists. I used kiln dried spruce 2X4’s and ripped them with a circular saw to the same size as the existing floor joists. The outside floor joist is a given – it will need to be replaced, as that is why your step pulled out. It is rotten. You may or may not have to replace any of the inner ones. I had to replace one. So if you have to replace an inner joist, you will have to cut the old out, cut a new one and put it in place, butt joining it to the existing joists with the rot cut out of the middle, and then you will have to put a splice piece in to join the old to the new. I like to go at least 18” into the old joists. I use LOTS of carpenters glue and #8X3” decking screws to securely fasten the joists together. Don’t be a cheapskate on the screws!!
Now the outside floor joist, I strongly recommend you replace it in one piece from the door to the next transition, that is the wheel well and the front of the trailer. This piece carries the wall and should be good and sturdy.
You may have to put lateral support members into the floor to strengthen your repair. I did. Everything you do here, glue and screw it all. Pre-drill the wood at the ends if you have to toe-screw things together. This will prevent splitting. Once you replace all the framing members, then it is time to replace the floor plywood itself. It is VERY important that this plywood is replaced in its entirety, right out to the edge of the trailer. This is why you have lifted the wall off the floor. So you can replace plywood right out to the edge of the floor.
Now is the time to re-insulate the floor. Simple, buy some insulation and fill the floor cavity. Do remember that insulation is intended to be loose fit. You cannot increase your insulation R value by cramming more of it in there. So if your floor is 2X3’s, get a few batts of R-20 and split them in half, making sure you fill every void with insulation.
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix6.JPG
Now carefully measure and cut the new floor plywood to size.
Here is where you will appreciate the time you took to lift the wall off the floor. Insert the plywood under the wall, from the outside and carefully guide it into place on your new floor joists. Screw the plywood down to the old and new joists. You will have to angle screws from the outside to get them under the walls, but make sure it is securely fastened down.
http://www.hanover1.net/files/miscfiles/FloorFix7.JPG
This pic was from the repair of the rear floor area. The principle is the same.
Here is where you put your step back in. It is likely held in place with carriage bolts, put down from the top with the nut on the bottom. This is a bit awkward to do, as the wall is the way to drive the bolt in. Get under the floor and pre-drill up through the new wood to enable putting in the new carriage bolts to hold your step in place. Most likely it will be 5/16” or possibly 3/8”. Measure your old bolts and replace them with the same size. It is a little tricky to run the new bolts down, as they are directly under the wall. I was able to pry my wall sideways enough to get the bolt into the hole and drive it down. I then tightened the nut enough to pull the head of the bolt down flush to the plywood floor.
There will also be 2 more bolts on the inboard side of the step. They are easier to do, as they are in a foot or so from the door.
Once this is done, then you can put your flooring back in place, under the wall too.
Now you can use the jack and 2X4 and take the pressure off you brace that is holding the wall off the floor, and let the wall back down onto the floor. Proceed to screw the wall to the floor with #8X3” decking screws. On the ends and about a screw every foot should suffice.
Beyond this, the rest of it is re-assembly of everything you took apart to do the repair.
I didn't take any of the completed project pics. These are all I have
Sorry to be so long winded. Short inconcise descriptions only leave you to wonder what I mean.
Hope this helps – let me know.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/06/12 11:56pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Floor rot at door, anyone been through it?
Yes, I had the same thing with my 95 Sportsmen when I bought it in 2005.
The step was very loose, caused by a rotten floor. Also, when I stepped inside the door, the floor was soft.
Yes I have photos of the repair. I will dig for them and post some for you.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/06/12 09:52pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Finally!
Wow! Very nice!
You will have no problem towing anything with that truck!
And those lights? Those will poke a hole in just about any situation!
Congrats on a great looking truck! :)
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:57pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: I bought some ice cream salt yesterday, and ...............
........... also included re-booting and I would still be messed up if it wasn't for your suggestion.
I'll keep that in mind for future refference
Been there done that!
Glad the suggestion helped. That's what this forum is about - helping each other.
I think there are about 6 or 8 different portals to get onto this site. All of them are accessible from, well, all of them. Somewhere here there is a sticky that lists all the portals, but I forget where it is.
They all lead to the same forum.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:53pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Pulling a Travel Trailer with a Dually
I went dually from 3/4 ton in 2002.
As said, world of difference. I love towing my TT with my dually.
The stability, the sure-footedness on the road is really a noticeable difference. I feel very confident in all driving conditions, including off road, dragging my TT up into a mountain lake over very rough terrain.
I'll never go back to a single.
Yeah I still hop a curb once in a while but.....
Just watch the "hips" until you get used to them!
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:43pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Okay.....now who has all the Fleetwood Parts
FWIW, the parts you describe do not have to be Fleetwood specific.
Curtains, valance, well, it may be hard to match, but the roof is generic. Whether it be rubber, TPO or something else, the material is easily sourced elsewhere than Fleetwood.
The particular pattern for the material of the bunk end stuff is made by others and Fleetwood bought a gob of it for the particular model year(s) run.
Try looking at the material manufacturer rather than Fleetwood specific.
Oh yeah, folding trailers.....
Well, the roof material is still generic
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:34pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: I bought some ice cream salt yesterday, and ...............
Thanks bobsyouruncle it worked
Good, I learned a long time ago that occasionally the site has issues and when it does, I temporarily go to another portal and post from there.
Works almost every time. I find that when RV.Net burps, Woodalls usually works.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:24pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: I bought some ice cream salt yesterday, and ...............
Site sometimes has issues.
I just had a problem posting a response to another thread.
Try going to http://forums.woodalls.com/ log in with same credentials and try posting from there.
I just did and it works. Sometimes the site can be a bit quirky for some reason. I could post a response in one thread but not another.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:14pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: to chip or not to chip DURAMAX engine?
Don't think I would mess with it.
I had an '03 LB7 and currently have an '07 Classic LBZ.
The difference between the LB7 and the LBZ driving under exactly the same circumstances, driving habits etc. is nearly exactly 2MPG difference.
I run all the time with a big rack and toolboxes, which weighs around 2000 pounds and is as aerodynamic as a brick. So based on that, my '03 LB7 got around 14 MPG, my LBZ gets around 12, not towing.
Towing, I don't see that big of a difference because I am always driving with at least a ton on the back of my truck. Towing, on both trucks, my economy goes south about 15 to 20%.
And yes, my foot is a bit heavy, always has been. I do like the feeling of passing things going up mountain hills towing, with the cruise control on.
The D-max has plenty of power right out of the box. I see no need to chip it unless you want to roast the tires off the line and be the first guy to the next light. I seriously doubt you will see any increase in MPG. It is all relative. More ponies equals more fuel burned under most all circumstances.
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is this site having problems??
I have the site open in 2 different tabs in FF. Funny thing I responded to another post no problem but I have one that is hanging, hanging.....
Copied my response, closed browser, opened all back up tried again, still hanging.
Guess I'll go try Woodalls...
Lets see if this posts....
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:08pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Best Photo Caption..."Revenge of the Weight Police?
Aaaargggghhhhhhh!! Who farted?
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 11:03pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: I bought some ice cream salt yesterday, and ...............
Somehow, putting salt on my ice cream has never occurred to me.........
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BobsYourUncle
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05/05/12 10:58pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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