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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: built in gas latern in camper?

Darn, I wish my rig had a gas light...Had one years ago, didn't use it much but sure was nice in the evening to take off the chill and provide light without power usage. I wouldn't yank it out, never know when you might need to use it.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/23/12 02:04pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How much sway is normal - Reese dual cam round bars @ 60mph?

Any sway is too much....
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/15/12 07:15pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: NAPA DEF sale

That gives you lots of time to use it. I think it is good for two years unless it gets really hot.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/15/12 05:50pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Cable broke from dump valve

You can add the new valve anywhere down stream of the old one where you can get to it to operate it. Just leave the old valve open.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/15/12 05:17pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: NAPA DEF sale

Hope the expiration date isn't up soon.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/15/12 04:17pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Down shifting with an automatic transmission

In coming down long steep mountain grades will downshifting the auto matic transmission to a lower gerar hurt it.
I have been doing it for a long time now, and am wondering if I may be taking life out of the transmission.
Jack L
NO, but it has probably saved your life once or twice. They say you never want to go down a hill in any gear higher than you climbed the uphill side. If you ride the brakes and get them over heated they won't work when you really need them.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/13/12 06:55pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Black tank cabel pulling hard

I think if you were only pulling slack it wouldn't be hard to do. Have him cut an opening below the valve and repair it. I think seal has probably slipped out of position and is causing the problem, or the wrong seals were used. He can tape up the cut and you will be good to go, sooner or later you will need to rebuild the valve too so the cuts will be fine. Been there done that and things are better now.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/13/12 05:47pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Inverting ball mount

Go ahead and invert the shank, measure the front and back of the trailer on a common strip like a moulding that runs the length of the trailer or the frame if you can get to it when hooked up and on level area and see where you are. If level or slightly low in front you are ready to go. If not, you need to buy a shank with more adjustment to get the trailer level when hooked up to the tow rig. You can use a pipe to slide over the breaker handle or borrow a torque wrench to get the nut to the proper tightness.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/13/12 05:33pm |
Towing
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RE: Inverting ball mount

If you have the right size tools you should be able to do it. Turn the bar in the hitch so the ball is horizontal instead of vertical to hold it while removing the ball. You may need a cheater pipe on the handle of the breaker bar to break the nut loose.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/13/12 10:52am |
Towing
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RE: long hitch shank?

I agree about the irresponsibility of someone who leaves the hitch in the receiver. Case in point, went to a restaurant, saw a pickup backed into a space, rear tires were touching the sidewalk, the bar and ball were way over the sidewalk into the landscaped area, forcing people to walk around the front of the pickup and then back onto the sidewalk to go into the restaurant. This was the main sidewalk into the restaurant. Mentioned it to the host but don't know what happened after that.
Sounds to me the rear of the truck was blocking the walk not the hitch ball. Yes the driver had the walk blocked and should not have but don't blame the ball mount this time.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/13/12 09:28am |
Towing
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RE: long hitch shank?

I leave my ball mount in place most of the time. If it keeps someone from scratching my tailgate with the stuff they bought at the box store, so be it.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/12/12 10:14am |
Towing
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RE: wiring question - intermittent loss of brakes

Steveque writes "I did use regular solderless connectors with heat shrink over each connector and wrapped the entire thing with electrical tape."
That most likely IS your problem.
Solderless connectors even with the correct crimpers will after a lot of movement such as that cable gets will tend to fail (yeah I know, that comment is going to ruffle the crimper crowd!). Often times you either over crimp and smash the wire or you under crimp and the wire pulls out of the connector.
Over the years I had way to many DIY crimping failures, instead I now opt for soldering splices then coat with liquid tape then heatshrink then I wire ty the connection together. After 20plus years of doing that way I have ZERO failures.
Heat shrink and tape is not enough to make a good water proof seal, you need to use heat shrink with adhesive which melts when shrinking forming a water proof bond or a round of liquid tape then heatshrink.
To me, solderless connections are a short term fix for when I am in a bind and don't have any better means to fix.
For long term repairs your best way to repair such damage is to replace the cord. You can get new cords which have the plug molded to the cable which will banish those types of intermittent connections.
I now turn it back over to the seething angry crimper crowd to follow...
This is where I would look too....
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/11/12 09:26pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Question about parking camper on processed stone??

To your question of how deep to dig, It depends on how firm your ground is. You need to dig out the loose wet soil down to good firm material, and/or lay down some construction filter fabric to keep the mud and gravel separated and give some vertical strength. Provide some type of drainage to keep the water out of the drive/parking area. Back fill with bank run material if needed then top course with three or four inches of crushed top with fines, not clean. Compact the back filling in no more than six inch lifts for best strength and weight support.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/11/12 09:15pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Leveling the TT

My wife likes me to level to the stove, that also puts the fridge close enough.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/03/12 08:30pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Tank full of water, new tongue weight

Why not keep the scale,you will be surprised how often you will use it if you do keep it.
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/03/12 06:53pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Individual wheel weight

Most of the WA weigh stations turn the read out toward the door window when they are closed so the public can weigh in. I use one in my area quite often when the Patrol isn't using them. They won't be happy if you try when they are open for truck traffic....
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Bob/Olallawa
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05/03/12 06:41pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Brake squeal at rest

The magnets are humming because they are getting power from some place. The controller is sending power back, the plug is shorting across, or the emergency brake is leaking.
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Bob/Olallawa
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04/09/12 09:40pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Leveling TT

It is easy to take the high side down a couple inches and use the material to raise the low side. If you have to set the step side up high on blocks it doesn't make it easy to get in and out of the rv. If the park owner would spend a bit of time leveling the sites instead of grousing about someone leveling them as needed the park would be a better place. Shotgun, I don't think a gun fight is needed.
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Bob/Olallawa
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04/09/12 09:28pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Wheel Lugs

Don't know how I would get by with out a foot-pound torque wrench. Wish I had a 3/4" drive instead of the 1/2 inch. That is on my upgrade list and will happen this year for sure.
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Bob/Olallawa
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04/06/12 02:05pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Help with the numbers please.

The bags are already installed in my truck so I will use them since they are already there.
For the WD hitch should I get one with #1000 bars or #800???
You will need at least the 1,000 lb bars.
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Bob/Olallawa
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04/06/12 12:48pm |
Towing
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