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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: after market freezer
I bought an Engel 120 vac/12 vdc freezer about 5 or 6 years ago, and it has worked very well. Continously variable temp control may be set for anything you want, from refrige temps to sub-zero. Switches automatically from 120 vac to 12 vdc and back. A pricey, but excellent unit.
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Bill S.
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03/19/12 09:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TST Tire Pressure problems
SgtJoe, that's good information, and is what is happening, due to shallow thread cut on the sensors. I did not know that there is yet a 3rd generation sensor, that has addressed this issue. I will be contacting TST to see what they will do for me, and I will post the outcome back here.
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Bill S.
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03/16/12 05:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Saw this on the way home.
Well ya never can know. This happened to a 2006, 42' Monaco coach in Lazydays Rally Park last month. I was told that they think it was caused by the hydrohot system. Happened just before 0800 as the owners were about to leave for breakfast.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m174/CaptWill/Feb2012015.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m174/CaptWill/HolidayRambler212.jpg
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Bill S.
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03/16/12 07:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TST Tire Pressure problems
I have the same wheels, and the same TST system as the O.P., and have never got more than a day or 2 of trouble-free operation. When I first bought it a few years ago, it worked for nearly 3 days, before some sensors stopped displaying. Then mysteriously work again for 15 minutes, after a roadside rest stop.
I used short valve extensions on the front, and turned the rear stems out, so no extensions on the rear. They have either worked loose and leaked, or stripped out the inside of the pressure sensor, which then, could not tighten.
Replaced all the sensors, and have the same problem. Maybe I need a repeater and new sensors again, but that is expensive gamble, and doesn't solve the extension or soft aluminum thread-stripping issue. It's always something.
I tried to get them all working again before I left on this winter get-away, but didn't even go a few miles, before I had low pressure warning, which again turned out to be leaking between the sensor and the valve stem. Removed them, aired up again, and put them back in the box they came in. Thought it would be a good investment in safety, but that hasn't been the case for me. Waste of money.
Bill,
You say that you bought them a few years ago, they worked for three days, but then hadn't gotten more than a day or two of trouble free operation. Had you ever attempted to contact TST about the problems that you were having? They carry a warranty when first purchased, so why hadn't you returned them to TST? Yours is the first story that I've heard of encountering such difficulty with a TST System. They are a good company and as many have reported, will work with you to resolve any problems.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I just did an advanced search, to see when I originally bought the system. I posted about it at that time, and here's the link to that thread:clicky
I DID contact the company, and they sent the newer type (at that time) wheel sensors, which were a little smaller and used a special, included tool to install. They did not work. I contact the company several time after that, and was told my a young lady that the owner was no longer there, and a new owner did not want to be responsible for the problem. He did offer to sell me additional equipment, which I graciously declined.
I have also seen them at a big rally, about a year ago, and again, was not offered any solution other than to buy new equipment. Maybe just the luck of the draw, but this hasn't worked for me.
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Bill S.
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03/15/12 08:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TST Tire Pressure problems
I have the same wheels, and the same TST system as the O.P., and have never got more than a day or 2 of trouble-free operation. When I first bought it a few years ago, it worked for nearly 3 days, before some sensors stopped displaying. Then mysteriously work again for 15 minutes, after a roadside rest stop.
I used short valve extensions on the front, and turned the rear stems out, so no extensions on the rear. They have either worked loose and leaked, or stripped out the inside of the pressure sensor, which then, could not tighten.
Replaced all the sensors, and have the same problem. Maybe I need a repeater and new sensors again, but that is expensive gamble, and doesn't solve the extension or soft aluminum thread-stripping issue. It's always something.
I tried to get them all working again before I left on this winter get-away, but didn't even go a few miles, before I had low pressure warning, which again turned out to be leaking between the sensor and the valve stem. Removed them, aired up again, and put them back in the box they came in. Thought it would be a good investment in safety, but that hasn't been the case for me. Waste of money.
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Bill S.
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03/15/12 06:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Safe wind speeds to drive in
I normally don't consider 20mph something to prevent me from driving, but each RV and driver have limitations. If you are concrned, then you may be better off waiting it out.
In our motorhome travels, we've been crossing the CBBT for many years. We have only been held back due to high winds, one time (in their holding lot, for about 2 hours, until the winds dropped below 47mph). Here is their policy, as stated on their website:
Level 1 40 miles per hour The following types of vehicles will not be allowed to cross the facility during Level 1 wind restrictions: large pick-up campers; camper trailers; house trailers; anything being towed; vehicles with any exterior cargo.
Level 2 47 miles per hour The following types of vehicles will not be allowed to cross the facility during Level 2 wind restrictions: motorcycles; large pick-up campers; camper trailers; house trailers; anything being towed; vehicles with any exterior cargo; empty tractor-trailers, not to include empty tanker trucks*; small six-wheel trucks such as moving vans, rental trucks, school buses, etc. Tractor-trailers must gross 30,000 pounds payload in addition to the weight of the rig and six-wheel trucks must gross 15,000 pounds payload in addition to the weight of the rig in order to be allowed to cross the facility during Level 2 wind restrictions. Tractors without trailers are allowed to cross.
*Empty tanker trucks are allowed to cross under Level 2 wind restrictions.
Level 3 55 miles per hour The only types of vehicles allowed to cross are cars without exterior cargo; pick-up trucks without cargo; mini-vans; vans not to include high-profile/conversion vans; SUVs; tractors without trailers; empty flatbed trailers, commercial buses and heavily-laden tractor-trailers with a 40,000 payload in addition to the rig.
Level 4 60 miles per hour The only types of vehicles allowed to cross are cars without exterior cargo, pick-up trucks without cargo, mini-vans, and SUVs.
Level 5 Hurricane force winds and other inclement weather conditions
The Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel is closed to all traffic due to unforeseen weather conditions or safety concerns. We strive to make this interruption to traffic as short as possible.
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Bill S.
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03/03/12 08:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help with cloning the old hard drive.
OK, thanks, I'll give it a try.
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Bill S.
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03/03/12 06:54pm |
Technology Corner
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Help with cloning the old hard drive.
In another thread about partitioning a HD, it was suggested that I
"Download and install the free EaseUS® Disk Copy 2.3.1. Follow the instructions for "cloning" your drive using only "sector-by-sector" copy. This makes an identical copy of your old drive.
"
I bought s new drive, ran the clone program, and it goes to "Finish", but shows a "Can't read sector" error. I don't know if this matters, or if I can use the drive as it cloned. I am not having any problems with any errors on the laptop, and I did run the Chkdsk/F, which turns up no errors.
Anyone know what I should do?
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Bill S.
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03/02/12 06:22pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Samsung tablet owners
Howdy!
I have the Galaxy tab 7.1 and love it. One of the things I use it quit often for is GPS when we travel. I us Co-Polit Live app and the large screen GT has totally replaced the old Garmim.
"Happy Trails"
chiefneon
Can you put an SD card in the Galaxy 7, and also, are you locked in to OS 2.2, or can you upgrade to the later versions that are on the Galaxy 10?
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Bill S.
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02/26/12 05:46pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
My system is not the least bit slow. In fact, I do think it fetches and runs programs, and websites, faster than it did when new, before I got rid of all the bloatware that comes with it.
Just as a FYI re HD prices, I ordered a 250 GB 2.5" hard drive from CompUSA today, for $64, and another $6 for an extended, 2 years, P&L replacement warranty; $9.99 for a USB housing for the old drive to become an external backup or whatever, drive; and $24 for a drive dock. All total, it came to $100.
I have many business programs, as well as RV and boating-related map guidance and navigation programs, and other software that I use all the time. I tried to find stuff to remove from the HD, to re-claim space, but there was very little, and nothing that would have made any difference.
So, a new drive for an old workhorse, whose Keyboard I absolutely love, is the answer. Thanks for the help. When I get the drive, I may be asking for help once again, but it looks to be pretty straightforward.
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Bill S.
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02/24/12 02:49pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
With HDD so cheap why would anyone want resize a partition when the other drive has such little free space. I keep my HDDs under 50% full to keep them from slowing down when writing and reading files. If you enjoy a slow PC then fill them up.
Well it was a mistake on my part...
I thought I had a hundred GB unused, not MB. So now that
I know the HD is on;y 80 gig to begin with, I have now ordered a new 250 GB drive to replace it.
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Bill S.
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02/24/12 12:02pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
Excellent. Thanks for the advice. I will be making a trip to CompUSA tomorrow.
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Bill S.
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02/23/12 09:06pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
This sounds involved. I guess I have to buy 2 drives, as I don't have a USB backup drive with me on the road. Seems like I need a USB drive to clone this one to, and then a new replacement drive to install in the computer, to clone back to?
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Bill S.
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02/23/12 08:15pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
Thanks for the help. Expanded Disk Drives shows as HTS541080G9SA00. This is an older Toshiba laptop, and the drive is the factory-installed drive. Toshiba model # A105S2141
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Bill S.
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02/23/12 07:36pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
You're basically out of drive space! The problem is your E partition does not have enough available space, just 113MB. You need to add a second HD, either an internal or an external USB. Otherwise, upgrade your current primary HD to a larger size.
Why can't I just do away with the E drive, and make that space part of the C drive? (I also know there's some "hidden" unallocated and unused drive space that is not showing up here. I think it's either 50GB or 75. The "E" drive use to be larger than is showing, and I had used an earlier version of this program to try to take some of it away for the C drive. I ended up taking it away, but it disappeared, and now my drive space is showing smalled than the drive total drive actually is.
I'd like to just have a C drive, with everything on it, and backed up to an external. Can I do this?
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Bill S.
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02/23/12 06:40pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
Here's a screen shot: (BTW, I don't need anything on the E drive, as it originally was created to serve as a system backup location, before I decided to backup to an external USB harddrive.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m174/CaptWill/ScreenHunter_01Feb232007.gif
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Bill S.
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02/23/12 06:15pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: How To Change Hard Drive Partition Size
.
It should take you just a few minutes to resize your hard drive partitions. No more complicated than dragging a few sliders. Here is an animation using the freeware EaseUS Partition Master 9.1 Home Edition:
http://i.imgur.com/JxROw.gif
First, click to highlight the D: partition.
Grab the left edge handle with your mouse, and slide to the right to reduce of the D: partition equal to the amount of free space you need for your C: partition.
Next, click to highlight the C: partition.
Grab the right edge handle, and move all the way to the right edge of your D: partition.
Click "Apply," then "Yes" in the confirmation popup.
Finally, click "OK."
You're done! :)
.
I only wish it were this easy. I have downloaded the program, installed and run it. When I click to resize partitions, I do not get the options shown, and cannot resize. I am down to 1.6 GB on the C drive, and have 125 BG unallocated in the E drive.
I have spent more than an hour, trying to either resize or merge these 2 drives, and also have tried creating another (F) drive from the E drive, and then merge that with C. I would think merging 2 drives should be as simple as marking everything in the E drive to now be part of the C drive. Program won't let me do it.
Here's a screen shot of what I see:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m174/CaptWill/ScreenHunter_01Feb232007.gif
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Bill S.
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02/23/12 05:29pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Reliability of Basement
We have it in our '02 Horizon (basically the same as a Journey), which we've owner for 9 years. Also had it in our our previous rig, which was an Adventurer. They have been trouble-free during that entire time, and the only thing I have just finished doing before we left for a trip, was I heard some bearing noise from the squirel-cage blower in the unit, so I pulled it. It took me about 4 hours, as I had never done it before, and was working by myself.
The reason they cost more to work on, is that it takes more time to pull the unit. BUt once it's out, and sitting on a work platform (all cables are long enough to pull it completely out of the frame), it's no different than working on a home unit.
The bronze bushings actually have oil caps, but of course they haven't been oiled since the unit was new, and there is no document that indicates oiling is needed. (there is a large felt oil-soaked pad under the iol cup). I replaced the noisey bushing with a sealed ball bearing, that I bought from the "Drill Spot", for $16.
It was surprisingly clean inside my unit, but I wiped everything down, vacuumed inside, and re-installed the unit. It has been working flawlessly, and quieter, since.
I wouldn't let the basement AC be a deal breaker. Check it all out, and if you like it, make an offer that you're happy with. You will likely need to do some things no matter what you buy used. Plan on replacing all filters and fluids, and probably tires, maybe batteries, and get chassis lubed.
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Bill S.
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02/20/12 07:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Stolen iPhone.........
OP wondered why the thief would steal a phone since he already had an iphone. Answer is simple; that's what a thief does. They don't steal because they need something. He also might have saw the opportunity to get a replacement screen for his phone.
Sorry it happened to you, but take away from this life lesson that the next phone will have some security and tracking measures set in place, right away.
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Bill S.
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02/19/12 08:50am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Google "Hacks" Safari
If anyone thinks it's just about seeing more ads, better read this
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Bill S.
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02/18/12 07:31am |
Technology Corner
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