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RE: Upgrading to E-rated tires
snip...
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The minimum recommended PSI for the LT275/65R18 tires would be 50 front and 55 rear. Remember to check the PSI when the tires are cold.
We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing Michelin.
The carry capacity vs PSI is pretty linear and you can do the simple math yourself
Best to have actually weighed your axle loading
For folks who want a PSI number and went to the OEM...note their verbiage
'Minimum recommended' is out of context if your axle load is not what they
used to develop that recommendation...
Made up this chart decades ago for a magazine article on LT vs P
class tires and how can two different sized tires have the same
max load ???
Note how linear the 'curve' is...that blip is from their typo info
provided to me for that article
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Load-vs-PSImychart.jpg
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BenK
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05/25/12 02:29pm |
Towing
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RE: Don't get in to much of a hurry......
On I-95 wasn't towing.......
http://oi50.tinypic.com/29zczl4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/07020001.jpg
Mine is a 7.4L with 4.1's and LT265/75R16E's. So the speedo is off by
about 6% so the that 64 MPH is actually 68.x MPH
Notice the newer dash tach's no longer have a red line...computer
controls you life these days... :B
Also, since there are speed limits on all of our public roads that are
enforced...our OEM dash speedo's are actually pretty accurate because
of the fact the LEO's enforce posted speed limits. They can't have
the defense say their speedo is a piece of $#@%
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BenK
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05/25/12 11:06am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New Andersen WD hitch
What year is your 8.1L Suburban?
If GMT800 (2000-2006), then the receiver should be replaced with a proper one. The
OEM receiver bends and consume WD forces. So it DOES NOT transfer as much weight
to the front axle as a traditional receiver would with the same WD spring forces
If GMT900 (2007 on), then note that the receiver is welded on and is part of
the bumper crumple zone. Why it is rated or limited to a max of 1,000 in WD mode
But you said 8.1L and IIRC, there is no big block offered on the GMT900 platform
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BenK
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05/24/12 09:36pm |
Towing
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RE: 3rd vehicle strictly for towing? Need advice.
Actually have some more cylinders...bought a 100% duty cycle 9,000 watt generator
as a just in case for mom's medical equipment this winter
Also going to 'add' a generator and eying a used one at the lawn mower place
for that all electric truck. Still qualifies as an all electric (recharge via cord
and the gen is NOT directly hooked up to the drive train), so can travel in
the commuter lanes. It will then be a single cylinder
Can't touch my sig, as the 'new' rules has less characters...so it stays as is :)
PS...we caught a buddy cheating with his cylinder count...he counted his guns
so we changed it to 'reciprocating' cylinders
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BenK
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05/24/12 01:54pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 3rd vehicle strictly for towing? Need advice.
Am retired and on a tight budget, so economy is important to me...as is performance
for my specific application(s)
In my life, need the number of seat belts and the room to ALSO carry
stuff (bicycles, ice chest, grill, tables, chairs, etc) during any
of the light outings to serious outings.
My daily is a used, 2000 Honda Odyssey. Mainly for my ailing parents hauling
them to/from the various medical facilities. It has a 1.25" receiver that it
came with...mainly for a bike rack. 20MPG city and sometimes 24MPG highway
For my properties, remodeling, hauling dirt/gravel/wood pellets/firewood/etc/etc
have a 1980 C10 Silverdao 'heavy half ton' that dad gave me. It has the long bed
and a cap over that. It has an after market rear bumper that I've modified and
has a 2" ball that I tow with. 10MPG city and 15MPG highway ('built'
performance 5.7L small block) A 'stock' 5.7L would get much better MPG's
For my 4x4'ing and SERIOUS camping/hiking/fishing/sports anything I have a
1996 K3500 Suburban with a 7.4L big block. It currently has a OEM receiver, but
before I sold the boat, it had a highly modified OEM receiver. I'll be getting
another after market 'HD' receiver, that I'll also be modifying
When working, commuted with this Suburban (35-45 miles one way depending
on which campus was meeting at that day). 10MPG city and sometimes
15.4MPG highway.
All are paid for and my only expenses are registration/smog testing/maintenance/insurance
and fuel/oil/etc.
Also have a 1969 2 seater am rebuilding/restoring (my first brand new car).
+30MPG highway and sometimes down to 13MPG when 'on it'. That
is for the 2.4L inline six, but now have a 3.1L (diesel crank and junk
yard 2.8L donor) and don't know the MPG's, yet
My expenses for *ALL* of my vehicles is LESS than some of my buddies with much
newer TV's that they still have years of monthly payments till they pay it off. This includes insurance.
I only drive the Suburban on weekends or trips because it is only for towing
and serious hobby stuff.
The Silverado is also driven weekends to keep the fluids/lube's/etc flowing
and of course when I'm doing something for the properties
The Odyssey is my daily, and does light duty of all the above
Am noodling an all electric as my daily, but will also keep the Odyssey
Looking for a used all electric pickup with a crew cab. Stuff more
batteries (lead acid is good enough for my use) and have a bed cap
that has solar panels on it's top section.
The OP needs to decide, according to their budget/income, how important
economy is vs performance/safety towing their trailer. I seriously
suggest re-addressing a 2500 Suburban, but used.
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BenK
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05/24/12 12:46pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: For you Ford 6.7L owners
Oh my...re-read the original post and see that I made a humongo mistake in
assuming 'BG' was a Bosch something or other division...
Well now...if 'BG' is a 3rd party to Ford and Bosch...would think both Ford and
Bosch would love to have a new player they can blame future failures on
Only time/miles can tell if this band-aid does the trick...but think
it will just add to the fray of finger pointing with 'their customer'
stuck in the middle
I see/think this is just another band-aid and possibly a diversion
I go back to Rick's thread and say I think it is the poor choice of lube (diesel)
and very, very poor design of the cam/piston and cam cavity
All of these band-aids telling that Bosch either does NOT know the root
cause, and/or they are trying El Cheapo fixes (band-aids)
I'm going back to Rick's thread to keep continuity of this HPFP topic
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BenK
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05/24/12 12:18pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: F-150 EB - Tow, or Max Tow Package?
I'd go with the +8K GVWR truck no matter what marketing badge you call them
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BenK
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05/23/12 06:11pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: For you Ford 6.7L owners
So how much does this magic potion cost?
And how about when my wife drives the truck to see her sick sister 1000 miles away? I have to train her to add this "Ford Cure" every time she stops for fuel??
Or how about when I am out in BFE and I run out - A really stupid solution to another Ford Diesel debacle.
It's only a 'suggestion', not a mandatory use it or else denied warranty, right?
So, can one assume that if you don't use that stuff...warranty will
cover it ?
The BG rep says the Ford dealer will be selling a case of BG additive with every oil change (included in the price) that will be suggested to be used in every tank. The BG additive is "DFC".
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BenK
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05/23/12 06:08pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: For you Ford 6.7L owners
Good info and now sets the stage for positioning...
#1, what about those who bought & used their 6.7's way before this new additive?
#2, what is in that additive?
#3, do they think they have reset the clock on the 6.7 or the HPFP?
#4, is this stuff backwards compatible with the dual DLC coatings?
#5, They need to explain why "small amount of rust" is the basis for warranty denial?
#5a Then they need to define what 'small amount of rust' means, as to some on
this forum...I'd guess scales falling off the base material...to some who would
say discoloration meets that vague and ambiguous definition
#6 IF this does solve it, then they nailed the root cause and must
'out' that information, but if telling on their 'bad' positioning...it
will take a class action or a regulatory agency to force them to out it
#7 Anyone know if the NHTSA know about this? They should not add it
to their investigation and reference the above bullets
Ford/Bosch/etc needs to keep their eye on the big picture ball, as these band aides
all stack up and they better all line up in their direction.
Helter-skelter band aides just confirm their cluelessness in what the root cause(s) is (are)
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BenK
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05/23/12 02:03pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: HPFP ??
snip...
Never understood why people love to bash vehicles they don't like; Ridgeline is a great example...if you don't like it, don't buy one...for someone who wants something that "feels" like a car, doesn't really tow, and hauls a few bags of top soil from Home Depot or the occasional antique and that's about it, it probably is a good vehicle.
Why be "mad" at something that doesn't fit your particular needs/lifestyle? It may fit someone else's. Should others be "mad" at large pickups because they aren't ideal errand-runners or grocery-getters?
Back to topic, OP I hope this works out for you...
Agree, but add that not all questions and advice follow your example
There lots of folks who know no better and think a CUV is a SUV and
believe the brochure/specification MTWR is an absolute
That is where the 'mad' or maybe 'upset' comes into play
Many 'think' that their car based utility vehicle (CUV...cross over
and based on a 'car' platform) is a SUV and that it can tow a lot.
Also, many have never owned a 'truck' and the CUV is the biggest, baddest
vehicle they have ever owned
A Ridgeline is derived from the Odyssey Mini Van plate form. As is
the Pilot. As the Highlander is derived from a Camry (first gen) and
currently from the Sienna Mini Van. As the RAV4 is derived from the
Corrola. As the CRV is derived from the Civic. Etc, etc, etc
Then the 'sure you can' and the 'been doing it for decades with no
problems' type of advice...that too many times is exactly what the OP's
want to hear...
There is nothing wrong with a CUV, but must keep that in perspective
of it's real ratings, which requires going out and weighing everything
axle by axle
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BenK
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05/23/12 01:44pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Upgrade Tundra to F150 HD?
First, you are comparing apples to oranges...
The Toyota is a around a 7.6K GVWR truck, while the fake half ton 150HD is a 8.1K GVWR truck
Then understand that their MTWR is NOT an absolute...it depends on their
actual weights (both the TV and trailer)
Meaning that 10K MTWR is NOT absolute...meaning that if you load either
truck till their tires blow up (pop), the MTWR is NOT 10K lbs, but ZERO
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BenK
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05/23/12 12:08pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Aux fan not working 97 chev pickup
Here are pictures of my GMT400 7.4L Sub while in the shop after nailing a Land
Rover which jumped a stop sign
Is this the aux fan?
Yes, it is supposed to be on whenever the AC is on.
check the fuse first
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/01240007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/01240006_frnt_end_crop.jpg
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BenK
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05/23/12 11:24am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: What do you torque WD hitch shank bolts?
Oh...just realized that the OP might be talking about the bolts (plural) holding
the hitch head to the shank...not the ball's threaded stud
Example is that a 5/8" grade 5 bolt recommended torque is 150 ft/lbs
and the hundreds of ft/lbs of a ball stud would snap that 5/8" in an
instant
Anyway, here is a chart covering the various grades and sizes of bolts
Check the bolt head for the markings, which tell what grade they are. Then find
their thread dia to look up the recommended torque. There are other factors
that the designers accounted for (proof load, yield, loading, etc), but these
charts get you into the ball park (normally they are in the 80% of proof range)
PortLand Bolt
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BenK
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05/23/12 11:17am |
Towing
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RE: New Andersen WD hitch
The brackets appear to have rotated on the set screw. The bracket bolts were torqued to the recommended 100 ft lbs. Suprized me.
First mention of a torque value...previously posters have said the
instruction manual said to make 3 full turns, or something like that
Which is it?
Or am I mixing up the pointed set screw with the bolts holding the
brackets together?
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BenK
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05/23/12 11:11am |
Towing
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RE: HPFP ??
Ditto my respect of and for NewsW
Too many only want to hear what they want to hear and nothing else
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BenK
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05/22/12 01:47pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Steering problem
Anyone know how many adjustments there are in any automotive steering system?
There two adjustments 'down there' by the wheel knuckle connected to the steering
box. Some systems they are called 'tie rods' and has a threaded section for adjustment
Then there is the steering wheel shaft that is splined to the steering wheel hub
DO NOT take this Ford Bologna as NORMAL...it is NOT and the steering
wheel should point straight, not off center
Here is a good short course on alignment
A Short Course on Wheel Alignment
Steering Center
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/Images/Align_Steering_Center.gif
Steering center is simply the fact that the steering wheel is centered when the vehicle is traveling down a straight and level road. A crooked steering wheel is usually the most common complaint that a customer has after a wheel alignment is performed. Assuming that the steering wheel stays in the same position when you let go of the wheel (in other words, the car is not pulling), then steering center is controlled by the front and rear toe settings. When setting steering center, the rear toe should be set first bringing the Thrust Angle as close to the vehicle centerline as possible. Then the steering wheel is locked in a straight ahead position while the front toe is set. Before locking the steering wheel, the engine should be started and the wheel should be turned right and left a couple of times to take any stress off the power steering valve. After setting the toe, the engine should be started again to be sure that the steering valve wasn't loaded again due to the tie rod adjustments. Of course, you should always road test the vehicle after every alignment as a quality control check.
Another problem with steering center has to do with the type of roads that are driven on. Most roads are crowned to allow for water drainage, and unless you drive in England, Japan or another country where they drive on the wrong (sorry) left side of the road, you usually drive on the right side of the crown. This may cause the vehicle to drift to the right so that the steering wheel will appear to be off-center to the left on a straight road. The best way to compensate for this is as follows:
I do NOT agree with this wacky adjustment below, as stated
earlier...we some times do drive on the 'other' side of the crown
If there is a difference in caster, it should be that the left wheel is more negative than the right wheel, but not more than 1/2 degree. Check the specs for any specific recommendations on side-to-side differences.
If there is a difference in camber, then the left wheel should be more positive than the right wheel. Check the specs to see what the allowable difference is.
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BenK
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05/22/12 12:32pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Sorry state of fuel in North America
This thread has caused me to lose a LOT of sleep lately....
....over the concern that the price of tin foil is about to sky rocket... :D
No need to worry or lose sleep....there is a buy once and never have
to buy tin foil again !!!!
http://compare.ebay.com/like/330692408938?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y
$126.34 bucks (free S/H) and you are done for life !
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/4/5/9/3/1/4/webimg/550687219_o.jpg?nc=862
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BenK
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05/22/12 11:32am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Getting the best mileage possible
I am trying to increase my mpg when towing. Currently get 19 at 1600 rpm about 50 mph, any downshift ups the rpms to 2100, mileage drops to 10.5.
Anyone with experience re k&n filters, aux radiator fans, computer chips, exhaust systems , air boxes?
Which e the most effective?, cost effective?
Thanks,
John in Tucson
2000 Chevy Blazer(max towing 5500)
Kodiak 215 hybrid (3700 loaded)
Here are some proven methods that are also fairly low cost to gain
the best/highest MPG....
Go to the narrowest tire rated for your loading.
Get a highway tread with the fewest sipes, lugs (spaces between the
tread blocks), or better yet no tread blocks but contiguous ribs
Air them up to their max listed PSI. Don't worry about wearing out
the center rib...remember you are going to the narrowest section width
Get the highest aspect ratio, say an 80% or higher
Get the widest rim width recommended for that tire size
Make sure your air profile is smooth and unencumbered by things like
aux lamps, roof rack, extended mirrors, etc, etc
Lower the vehicle and/or install a chin dam as low as possible to pinch
off any air flowing underneath the vehicle.
Maintain your vehicle well and use the best lubricants you can afford
Flush them often (engine, transmission, power steering pump, diff, etc)
Keep it in tune and do NOT go the 100K most manuals say your plugs
are good for...change them at 50K mile or sooner
Air filters should be changed often and if in dusty/dirty/etc conditions,
change them even more often
Then driving style
DO NOT 'drive' to a stop, but coast to a stop.
Accelerate as if an egg is between your foot and throttle
The boy racer stuff does give a seat of the pants impression, but
rarely higher MPG, as they are by definition (boy racer stuff) designed
for WOT most of the time
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BenK
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05/22/12 11:18am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New Andersen WD hitch
Is there a locking mechanism on the nut and/or threaded stud ?
Or has anyone found that the nut backs off ?
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BenK
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05/22/12 11:05am |
Towing
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RE: Tire age
First note that there are several classes of tires from 'ST' (trailer tires),
'P' (passenger car), 'LT' (light truck) and commercial
The formulations are different and the way commercial class carry weight is also
different (cut apart one and notice that the side walls are over an inch thick
in some cases)
Plus the formulation has changed over the years. Where in the old days they were
good for a re-tread or two. Where as a commercial tire can go a million miles or
more with re-treads
I can see both sides of this discussion. A lot depends on how that tire has been
warehoused or mounted/used on the vehicle. Then the type of driver and how they
take care of it. DO NOT use ArmorAll on any tire, my area Michelin Rep said
they would void any tire's warranty if they find ArmorAll was used. They recommend 303
Here is a CBS news article of a family finding out that tires do have an
age limit When Good Tires Go Bad
Here are some links to sites that have discussion on this topic
California, a potential law working it's way through the legislature
Safety Research & Strategies Raises Tire Age Profile in California; Tire Aging Consumer Disclosure Bill Clears Committee
Tire business site that is resisting
Tire age laws open cans of worms
Tire age laws open cans of worms
Share | Print Comment
AKRON (April 27, 2009)--When is a tire too old to be sold? At what age should tires be removed from vehicles, even if a safe level of tread remains? How should consumers be informed of a tire’s age? Who will explain to them what the tire’s age means? What type of reporting is needed regarding tire aging?
It’s not the tire industry asking these questions, but legislators in at least four states who are urging the establishment of laws involving the age of tires. Those legislative efforts should send warning signals to tire manufacturers and tire dealers alike, who may be forced to abide by new rules governing the tires they produce and sell.
These laws aren’t needed, don’t make a lot of sense and would be difficult to follow. The last thing the tire industry needs is more costly and time-consuming regulations.
The problem here is that there is no clear-cut consensus in the tire industry on these and similar questions. That makes the possible establishment of varying rules in different states all the more dicey.
While the issue of tire aging is a valid one, it’s imperative the industry work together with legislators to establish some sane positions on this subject. Doing so would help steer and possibly end the debates now raging in several states on the subject.
Otherwise, people not familiar with tires and the tire industry could come to their own conclusions without the necessary background to make knowledgeable decisions. It’s happened before.
Tire aging is an issue that has grabbed the attention of consumers and politicians alike.
So far, legislators in New Jersey, New York, California and Hawaii have taken up the cause and are looking at what action they might take.
California is considering two bills. One would require tire retailers to provide written information on sale documents about the age of each tire sold. Customers would have to sign a document, which dealers would be required to keep for three years or face a $250 fine per violation.
The second bill would amend the state’s Automotive Repair Act to require dealers to disclose in writing the age of tires sold and post signs in their shops warning about the dangers of tire degradation.
The Hawaii bill would make it illegal to sell a tire more than six years after its date of manufacture, while the one in New York would forbid the sale of any tire within the state that did not have the date of manufacture clearly molded on both sidewalls “in non-coded fashion.”
In New Jersey, the Division of Consumer Affairs is soliciting comments on whether to establish a standard mandating tire age disclosure by tire dealers.
All of these bills are different and, if adopted independently, would create a confusing web of regulations for dealers and tire makers to follow.
The tire industry, through its national trade groups, the Rubber Manufacturers Association and the Tire Industry Association, should take the initiative regarding tire aging before these states and others do so themselves. Then it might be too late.
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BenK
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05/22/12 10:59am |
Towing
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