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Forum
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RE: Replacement Pinbox
You are talking about adding an extended pin box. If it is a new trailer still under warranty, you best ask the question to the manufacturer. It could void the warranty.
If out of warranty, still might be a good idea to ask them. Frame may not be designed for an extended pin box. Likely they will say they do not recommend it regardless of the design. It definitely would put different stresses on the frame in the way of additional torque.
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BB_TX
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05/08/12 03:58pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: deleted thread
Gun ownership, even within the realm of RV ownership, is a very devisive subject and best left to those sites that deal with those issues.
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BB_TX
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05/07/12 03:40pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Dallas,tx to colorado springs
What about taking FM 1061 out of Amarillo to connect with hwy 385? Saves about 20 miles and looks like a good road. Is it not?
Don't mean to hijack, but I'm headed to CS in July.
Thanks,
Mark
According to google maps, that route is 3 miles shorter than the Dumas route and 14 miles shorter than the Vega route. And again according to google maps, it actually takes longer.
We took that route last year, going and coming. Not too bad. Not as smooth as the other routes. And highway is narrower, more curves, and no shoulders. Speed limits are lower in some parts along with the curves so you lose some of the time you may gain from the shorter distance. But still not bad for a change of scenery if you have been thru there as many times as we have.
We often overnight at an Fort Amarillo RV park at the western edge of Amarillo, making the Vega route even better for us.
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BB_TX
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05/07/12 10:08am |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Dallas,tx to colorado springs
We are just north of Dallas and have gone to south central Colorado every summer for the last 7 years towing our 5er. Our preferred route is US 287 to I-40 at Amarillo, I-40 west to Vega, US 385 north meeting US 87 at Hartley, US 87 thru Dalhart and Clayton to I-25 at Raton, and north on I-25. We turn off at Walsenburg just a little ways south of Colorado Springs.
You can also take Loop 335 from I-40 in Amarillo, loop around the north east side of Amarillo to US 287, then north to Dumas, then US 87 west toward Hartley, and on to Raton.
I prefer the first route as there are virtually no slow downs for Amarillo or Dumas.
Only pass is Raton Pass and that is not bad at all.
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BB_TX
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05/06/12 07:49pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: How To Remove Orignal TV From 2006 Montana
As noted above, go over to the Montana Owners Club web site. It varies depending on the model and year. I am sure someone there will have a 3475RL similar to yours and can help.
Many of us have replaced the original TVs with larger LCD or LED/LCD TVs and posted pictures of how we did it.
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BB_TX
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05/06/12 07:35pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Using Portable Air Pressure Tank for Inflation
Don't know about yours, but mine is like noted above. It has a small valve where the hose comes out of the tank that must be opened before air can flow out.
Generally good for a few pounds in one, maybe two, tires before the pressure is too low to do much good.
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BB_TX
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05/06/12 07:31pm |
Towing
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RE: Hot water heater
I always leave both rocker switches off until I get plugged in at an RV park.
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BB_TX
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05/06/12 09:11am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: lube plate makes unhooking more difficult ?
Understandable. Actually the trailer does not lower, the truck rises a little as the weight slides off, hence the pin box sliding down the hitch plate a little.
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BB_TX
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05/05/12 02:51pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Hot water heater
If like mine (Surburban), the switch on the water heater is for the electric heating element. The switch inside is for propane.
In cold weather, I turn on both switches to get better recovery time on the water heater. Just make sure the electric switch is off before you drain the tank.
Try bleeding the gas lines by lighting a burner on the range first. Then try lighting the water heater.
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BB_TX
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05/05/12 02:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: lube plate makes unhooking more difficult ?
I never raise my pin box plate off the hitch plate. For unhooking, I position it the same level as I do for hooking up, just below the hitch plate level. When I unhook and drive out, the pin box will slide down the hitch plate about an inch or so. Same hooking up, the pin box will ride up the hitch plate about an inch or so.
No problems with the lube plate.
So you don't extend the front legs to the ground? Never seen that before.
Of course I lower the jacks to the ground. :h But I do not lower them to the point it raises the pin box plate off the hitch plate.
When I hook up, the pin box plate is about an inch below the level of the hitch plate. When I back into the hitch the pin box rides up the hitch plate that 1 inch. That insures a good latch and no danger of high hitching.
When unhooking, I lower the jacks (i.e. raise the trailer) until it is about the same level as when I hooked up. That way the pin box slides back down the hitch plate the same 1 inch. No upward pressure from the pin on the latch mechanism.
No reason to raise the pin box completely off the hitch plate.
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BB_TX
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05/05/12 12:32pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: lube plate makes unhooking more difficult ?
I never raise my pin box plate off the hitch plate. For unhooking, I position it the same level as I do for hooking up, just below the hitch plate level. When I unhook and drive out, the pin box will slide down the hitch plate about an inch or so. Same hooking up, the pin box will ride up the hitch plate about an inch or so.
No problems with the lube plate.
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BB_TX
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05/04/12 07:57pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Towing with tonneau
I'm curious now. Don't you guys with covers experience the updraft force that I do? It will just about suck anything out of the bed.
No problem on mine. I am sure something very light would fly out. But I put a ramp for the dog back there. And wood blocks for the front jacks have been left there with no problem.
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BB_TX
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05/03/12 09:08am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Towing with tonneau
I have a Pace Edwards Full Metal Jackrabbit roll type tonneau cover on mine. Normally I leave it fully open when towing. But I often put two 26" bikes laying in the bed in front of the hitch. When I do that and if I plan to stop somewhere and be away from the truck, I will roll the top back near the hitch and lock it so the bikes can't walk away. Can also tow with it rolled back near the hitch if I want to keep the bikes (or any thing else) covered and out of sight.
By "messy" I assume you are talking about the soft covers when rolled up.
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BB_TX
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05/03/12 08:04am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: fantastic roof vent very noisy
Fantastic Vent has great customer service. Give them a call.
Fantastic Vent
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BB_TX
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05/02/12 12:07pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: fueling while on the road
Many "regular" stations now have the pumps perpendicular to the front of the store making it very difficult to get a trailer in and out of the limit drive space. With that much trailer you will need to be a little choosy about the station you pull in to.
I have diesel pulling a 5er but prefer not to use truck lanes. If on interstates or other limited access highways I will usually look for a truck stop as they often have longer pull thrus at the front pumps making it easier to get in and out. Have never seen gas in the truck lanes the few times I have used them.
If on secondary highways, I will slow down in the right lane going thru a town and try to watch for a station that I think I will have no problem getting in to and out of.
With the TT overhead clearance likely will rarely be an issue. Not so with my 5er.
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BB_TX
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05/02/12 12:05pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: How Important Is Long Term Care Insurance
Roadlife is right on. The two groups that do not need it are those with little in assets and can't afford it and will have to rely on whatever care they can get, and those with substantial assets and can provide their own care if needed.
That leaves most of the rest of us. As stated, nursing homes can run $50,000 or more per year depending on location. Many spend a year or less in care, others may spend several years especially if they have no family members (or others) who can provide some of the care. Those in good physical health but declining mental ability especially have a problem.
Add to that the premiums. I have read of some who carried LTC policies for years and then had to let them lapse due to increases in premiums making them no longer affordable.
Like all insurance, it is a big guessing game without a good answer.
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BB_TX
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05/01/12 06:55pm |
RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
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RE: Problem in getting Keystone
They all work for me.
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BB_TX
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05/01/12 06:25pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: 50 amp power - 30 amp/20 amp adapted
All it does is ....theoretically...give half your RV 30 amps...and the other half 20 amps. It won't work in practice...because the 20 amp outlet (by code) on all newer RV power pedestals is GFCI protected. With that adapter...the 20 amp WILL trip the fault protector!!
99% of the time that adapter will not work...and is worthless...
Please correct me if I've got the wrong idea here folks....
Have not tried it, but that is my understanding also. Have not bought that adapter for that very reason.
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BB_TX
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04/25/12 01:54pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Is this a general issue? Pic inside
A lot of trailer balls rust like that. Sure, a little grease may help, but I have seen worse.
Did you miss the tent stakes holding the hitch tube in the receiver?
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BB_TX
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04/25/12 01:51pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: What do you use to level your RV?
Level Master is what I use on the pin box and a small stick on bubble level on the side.
I took the 5er to a large level high school football field parking lot on a day when no one was there. And a carpenter level.
First I placed the carpenter level on the vinyl floor side to side and circled the parking lot until the level showed level. (a cabinet top or the top of the range would also work) Then I attached the Level Master to the pin box and adjusted it to level. That got my side to side level calibrated.
Then I turned the carpenter level front to rear and again circled until it showed level. Then I attached the adhesive backed bubble level to the side just above the door where my switch is located for my front jacks. That calibrated my front to back level.
When I pull into a site, I can see the Level Master thru the rear view mirror and know if I am level or need some boards under one side to level.
When level side to side, I unhitch and adjust the front jacks until the small bubble level shows level.
Done.
Maybe im missing something, but Im trying to figure out how you knew when the level in your 5er showed level while you were towing it around in circles.
When I put the carpenters level down on the floor, I checked where the bubble was. Then I got in the truck and began a circle. I moved the truck a little and went back to check the bubble again. Repeated until the bubble showed level and installed the first outside level. Turned the carpenters level inside and repeated the procedure until again showing level and attached the second outside level.
If I did it again, I would have the DW move the truck while I was inside the trailer on the phone with her to tell her when to stop. Would speed up and simplify the process.
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BB_TX
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04/25/12 11:33am |
General RVing Issues
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