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RE: Scangauge II Question
The Scan Gauge II reports it on my 2000 V10 MH.
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427435
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02/13/12 11:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
It all boils down to simple maintenance, if you can follow instructions and follow a good maintenance schedule then there is nothing wrong with a K&N or something similar. If you cannot follow instructions or you lack the ability to follow a good maintenance schedule then by all means stick with what got you there. The same goes for other maintenance issues like oil changes etc.
While someone may "get along" with a "properly" maintained (what ever that means) oil wetted filter, it will never provide as good of filtering as a good paper filter.
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427435
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02/13/12 10:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Increasing CCA for engine starting battery
The difference between 950 and 1000 is moot. However, be sure that rating is at 0 degrees--------not 32 degrees as some CCA's are reported at.
One thing to be aware of is that the higher the CCA rating, in the same size battery, the more plates are in that battery. More plates equals thinner plates. Thin plates can fail more easily.
If your old battery has provided 10 years of service, I would try and find the same manufacturer's battery to replace it.
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427435
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02/13/12 10:00am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
I graduated high school with a guy who made a 1600 SAT score, dual degrees from William & Mary but could not change a flat tire or a set of wiper blades!!
No, but don't bet that he couldn't learn. Do you think you could learn the things he's learned??
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427435
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02/13/12 09:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
Well, we've morphed from air filters to oil changes.
While having a competent mechanic inspect your car once in a while is a good idea, most competent mechanics aren't the ones changing oil. There is also lots of money made in garages by "upselling" people on thing they don't need when it is brought in for an oil change.
I had a company car and the company paid for the oil changes------so I hired it done. At 30,000 miles, they told me that the rear diff needed its oil changed. First, it had synthetic fluid in it from the factory and, two, the manual said diff oil changes were never needed. It didn't get changed, and they got some schooling on how to PO a customer.
My son (or his wife) take their Explorer to a Ford dealer for oil changes. They evidently did change the oil in the differentials at about 50,000 miles. Soon thereafter, a "shudder" was noticed on low speed turns. He asked his old gearhead (and long time SAE member) dad about it. I bought some of the limited slip oil additive that is supposed to be used and added it. Shudder went away. The Ford dealer must have used a substandard oil or forgot the additive. He would have been much better off ignoring their recommendation to change diff oil. Now, one of these days, we will need to change his diff oil again to get synthetic back into it.
He was also told that he needed a $700 front brake job as his pads and disks were shot. The disks were fine. A couple of hours (mostly of his labor, but my supervision) and $70 worth of pads later, things are still fine. By the way, the old pads still had 25% life left.
Ad for oil change intervals, they have greatly increased since I started driving in 1958. Not only are the oils far superior (especially if you are using a good synthetic), but the engines and oil filters are much improved.
One of the things that emission and mpg regulations have driven is far better combustion gas control. Ring technology and cylinder wall finish is worlds better than 50 years ago. This (and closed crankcase systems) have greatly reduced oil contamination and increased oil life. Plus the new oils (especially synthetics) will hold far more contamination than the oils of 50 years ago.
Most of the newer cars now have an oil life monitor that take these things AND how the car is driven into consideration. My 2003 Vette (synthetic oil required) will run 10,000-12,000 miles (easy driving) before the oil monitor says it's time to change. My wife's Explorer (dino oil recommended) will go 5000+ miles before the monitor says its time to change-------and that is with at least 50% short trip driving.
As for K&N oil wetted filters, do as you please. While some have satisfactory experience with them (gearheads have always wanted to modify something on their cars), there is ZERO proof that they will filter as well as a proper paper filter will. There is, however, a lot of proof that they don't------both scientific and anecdotal reports.
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427435
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02/13/12 09:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
Someone posted a while back that there some OEM's are using oil wetted filters. I asked for specifics and never got an answer.
The funny thing is that I have one of the few cars built after 1960 that has an oil wetted filter (not an oil bath filter). The 67 Corvettes with the 3x2 carb set-up used them (including my car). They ran out of space for a conventional paper filter, so used some plastic gauze about an 1" thick wetted with oil. I did take care of it. It also sat on top of the engine higher than the grille opening-----so maybe the dust in the incoming air didn't make the turn up into the air cleaner due to centrifugal force.
A paper filter is still the best way to go. It will flow all the air that is needed and will keep the abrasive stuff out of the engine.
In another life, I spent some time in an engine lab for Allis Chalmers where we would run some air cleaner tests. The old guy in charge of the lab used to say that an engine's life isn't measured by hours (or miles), it is measured by the grams of dust it has ingested. He said the engines we were testing (100 hp tractor) would last for about one tablespoon of dirt/dust. If it took 3000 hours for that much dirt to get by the air cleaner, the engine would run 3000 hours. If a tablespoon got past in 300 hours, it would be shot at 300 hours.
Pay your money and take your choice.
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427435
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02/12/12 10:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
Probably the biggest reason he puts them in his kit is that they allow more engine noise to escape. That reinforces the buyers "butt-dyno" read-out into thinking his power has increased.:b
Actually Mark I think you will find the biggest reason he uses them is to increase the HP and torgue specs he gets in his tests. His tests need every bit of help to justify his high priced equipment.
He promises a lot, and his customers like to think they got what he promised. How many customers do a before and after on an independent dyno to see if their results duplicated Banks published graphs. If someone has, I haven't seen it.
How many MH owners (especially gas units) ever have their foot on the floor at high engine rpms??? That's the only place a stock air filter MIGHT restrict the air flow more than a more open air filter would. At part throttle, the throttle is controlling the air flow. At full throttle, but 3000-4500 rpm, the intake manifold etc. are the controlling elements for air flow.
Heck, there are tests that show removing the air filter altogether doesn't increase power or mpg.
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427435
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02/12/12 10:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
A tune can have negative effects (such as harder shift impacts on the transmission) and it can have positive effects (such as significantly lowering the transmission temperature because of the reduction in unnecessary shifting and locking up the torque converter). Without knowing exactly what the tune is doing and the environment in which the combo will run, it is impossible to say what the net effect will be.
The unnecessary shifting is easy to control-------just hit the "lock-out" button for the O/D when that is an issue.
Did you realize that the transmission on the F53 is also used on some diesel models which produce more torque? I don't know for sure, but maybe the transmission is designed to handle harder shifts because of it.
I doubt very, very much that the tranny's are the same-----maybe the casting, but the guts would be very different if it is used with more torque. One of the things I learned years ago, is that a 10% increase in torque cuts the life of transmission gears, shafts, and bearings in HALF!!
Also, did you realize that up until 2011, Ford Chassis weren't tuned to optimize E10 gasoline? Common sense tells me that the mix or timing should be adjusted for that.
Pure BS. E10 has been around for 12+ years in many states. Any re-mapping of the computer for E10 (if any is needed) would have happened long, long ago.
The guy telling you that was selling a "tune" wasn't he??
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427435
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02/12/12 10:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
OK I'll apply some common sense.
At 50000 to 75000 miles I will be blaming that 12000 to 20000+ pounds of weight the tranny is dragging around as the reason it failed. Not the tune, or the manufacturer.
Not me. I expect my MH tranny to last well past 100,000 miles. That is what it was designed for.
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427435
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02/12/12 10:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
First, I have had experience with power shift transmissions-----------but you can also just apply a little common sense. The quicker the shift, the harder the impact loading is on the mechanical parts of the tranny.
As I also said, if a tranny fails at 50,000 to 75,000 miles after a tune, are you going to blame the tune (that you decided to add) or the maker of the transmission???
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427435
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02/11/12 09:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
A word of caution on "improved" shifts. A "quick" shift can easily cause more transmission problems than the factory shift. The quicker a transmission shifts, the greater the impact on the shafts, gears, and bearings within the transmission.
From what I can see, the 4 speed tranny behind the V10 unlocks the torque converter before shifting to "soften" the impact on the mechanical components. If a "re-tune" doesn't do this, it isn't good on the mechanical stuff.
got anything to substantiate that? I have yet to read where a tune caused a tranny to fail.
Years of engineering work including drivetrains in off-highway machinery that included power shift transmissions.
A "tune" won't fail a transmission in a few thousand miles(or probably not in 10-20,000 miles),, but where does the blame get put when it fails at 50,000 to 75,000 miles???
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427435
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02/11/12 10:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
If I remember right Gale Banks run tests on the high flow filters the outcome was they aren't worth the money and can let larger particales of dirt in and the flow was not that much better, if any on some other OEM paper filters.. Even though he puts them in his kits, it because the public wants them he says.. I think those tests are still on his site.. Just thought I'd throw that out there.. Mike M..
PS: I have used them on vehicles, but not one with a diesel/turbo, too much at stack..
Probably the biggest reason he puts them in his kit is that they allow more engine noise to escape. That reinforces the buyers "butt-dyno" read-out into thinking his power has increased.
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427435
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02/10/12 10:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
What does a recharge kit cost vs a new OEM style filter??
The filter for my V10 is around $20.
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427435
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02/10/12 10:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Construction specs on older (2000-2005) class A's
The newer Winny MH's use a lot of foam insulation. Why not just call them and ask them if there was any fiberglass used in the year ranges you are looking at.
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427435
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02/10/12 04:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
Waste of Money. Test have proven this time and time again.
Consistent power increase in my Caddy, a 100° EGT drop in both my diesels. ZERO problems.
You run that Caddy at wide open throttle a lot??? That's the only possible time (unlikely even then, however) that there could be an power increases.
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427435
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02/10/12 12:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
Waste of Money. Test have proven this time and time again.
Consistent power increase in my Caddy, a 100° EGT drop in both my diesels. ZERO problems.
You run that Caddy at wide open throttle a lot??? That's the only possible time (unlikely even then, however) that there could be an power increases.
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427435
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02/10/12 11:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
With no up side potential being given by K&N that I have seen but huge downside potential when not serviced per K&N specs each vehicle owner should be free to make their choice of air filter to use.
The cost for me to use a quality 'dry' air filter approachs zero and saves my remaining brain cells to think about matters that do matter. :B
Well said----------especially the part about using brain cells for something that matters.
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427435
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02/10/12 10:12am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
A word of caution on "improved" shifts. A "quick" shift can easily cause more transmission problems than the factory shift. The quicker a transmission shifts, the greater the impact on the shafts, gears, and bearings within the transmission.
From what I can see, the 4 speed tranny behind the V10 unlocks the torque converter before shifting to "soften" the impact on the mechanical components. If a "re-tune" doesn't do this, it isn't good on the mechanical stuff.
The same goes for speeding up the engagement of whatever clutch pack is being engaged------it increases peak loads on the mechanical parts.
I like the stock shifting of my tranny with the possible exception of how easily it downshifts-----------but the V10 isn't a grunt motor. It likes to rev. If it starts shifting between 4 and 3 too much, I just lock out 4th.
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427435
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02/10/12 09:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
And you expected what from K&N??????????????????????
Name one car manufacturer/model with an oil wetted filter.
While the filter as delivered may not foul a MAF sensor, it could easily do so when the owner cleans and re-oils the filter.
Notice that they also totally skip over the issue of extra dust/dirt getting through their more porous filter.
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427435
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02/10/12 09:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
This is a perfect example of why an individual should investigate a product on their own, not this banter I am seeing. If you don't like a product fine... just do not conflict your dislike with a picture of a tractor and a random statement with no documentation.
If the OP were to state... I have a Napa filter on my used MOHO... should I take it off? You would all come back and give a more positive response, at least not the bashing I see. You might even recommend an AFE, or a Spectre Intake system...
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And the documentation for Arlen Spicer refuting his original tests is??????
And I wouldn't bash a NAPA filter represented as an OEM replacement.
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427435
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02/08/12 11:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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