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RE: K&N Air Filter
This is a perfect example of why an individual should investigate a product on their own, not this banter I am seeing. If you don't like a product fine... just do not conflict your dislike with a picture of a tractor and a random statement with no documentation.
If the OP were to state... I have a Napa filter on my used MOHO... should I take it off? You would all come back and give a more positive response, at least not the bashing I see. You might even recommend an AFE, or a Spectre Intake system...
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And the documentation for Arlen Spicer refuting his original tests is??????
And I wouldn't bash a NAPA filter represented as an OEM replacement.
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427435
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02/08/12 11:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
To the OP, find and re-install the original air filter.
Increased air flow from a less restrictive air filter on a modern diesel or a fuel injected gas engine does nothing for your mpg anyway.
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427435
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02/08/12 10:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: K&N Air Filter
This site has some testing data on K&N filters
TEST DATA
While I could not view the graphs I did read the following text.
"In the chart above it’s important to note the different test durations for each filter. The AC Delco filter test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction. In 60 minutes the AC Filter accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons."
I don't mean to put a damper on your data... but that Spicer information is eon's old. Arlen Spicer visited the K&N facility in Riverside based upon the data that has been perpetuated thru that internet site. He basically retracted the data... unfortunately... that bit of information never made the "fair and balanced" section. Everyone continues to bash the product.
As for the class A diesel applications, they are NOT Oiled, they are a dry filter, no different than Farr, Napa, Fleetguard, Wix. They are just another option. They ARE washable tho.... a good thing. I just dislike the perpetuation of bad data. For the record, yes I do have one on my Class A diesel. Continue your discussion but use current factual information for the OP, not... I don't trust that thing...
The original tests were sound. While Arlen Spicer did visit the K&N facility and watched them repeat the tests on THEIR test machine, the results still showed that the AC filter did a much better job of filtering--------just not quite as big a difference.
Others have copied some of the verbiage from the original Spicer test, I will repeat the most pertinent:
Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons.
During my engineering career, I had responsibility for the specifying and installation of air cleaners for Cat, Deere, and Detroit Diesel engines in feller-bunchers. The installations had to pass their engineers approval before we could buy their engines for OEM use. Those companies would have laughed their back sides off if I would have proposed something like K&N filters.
If you don't know what a feller-buncher is, here's a picture:
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t178/427435/511EFellerBuncher.jpg
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427435
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02/08/12 10:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Storing your Class A
Jacks down to take load off both the tires and springs. It does sit inside when not in use.
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427435
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02/06/12 03:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Follow-up on new Koni FSDs
Thanks. Although there are a few detractors of these shocks, your experience matches mine and most others that have tried them.
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427435
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02/05/12 03:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: wondering if i should buy a 82 winnebago chieftain
Don't get too hung-up over the NADA price. A MH that old is all about condition. One of the biggest parts of "condition" is whether it has sat outside a lot or not.
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427435
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02/04/12 10:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Can't put on value extenders
I'm using these. They can be installed without dismounting the tire and are designed to not let the air out of the tire if the flex hose fails.
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/oid/125662/pn/Flexible-Valve-Stem-Extension-7-/erm/productDetail.do
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427435
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02/03/12 12:23pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Who Wants To Be Our Virtual Advisor? :)
@427435...yes, $40K and 40K miles on gas, 80K miles on diesel..thanks Bert and Scarlett for good info!
OK, for what its worth (and you could accuse me of being prejudiced), here are my thoughts. For $30-40,000 and for full-timing use, I would stick with a gasser. For that money, you can get a 2000 to maybe a 2004 MH with the V10 or 8.1 AND SLIDES. The slides make a huge difference in livability------ that will become very important a couple of months into full timing. I also would not be afraid of a gasser with those engines and 60,000 or more miles if the unit is in good shape and maintenance records are available.
I will also add, that with less than a $1,000 of chassis upgrades and $150 worth of sound damping materials, my gasser rides and handles nicely and is quite quiet.
As for brands, we've been very happy with our Winny product. Parts and service are easy to find and the features are well thought out (they have learned from building so many MH's). The 2nd slide in our bedroom made a huge difference to my wife. Until we saw this floor plan, she did not want to get into MH travel.
Also, remember that a dealer will most likely take 80% of his asking price on a used unit if there is no trade involved-------maybe less.
Do a search for Winnebago 35U or Itasca 35U. I suspect that the Winny products will also be one of your best bets for resale value. Some other brands could be out of business in a few years when you want to resell the unit.
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427435
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02/02/12 10:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Who Wants To Be Our Virtual Advisor? :)
Did I understand you correct?? Your budget for the MH itself is $20,000 - $40,000 with low miles??
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427435
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02/01/12 08:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: MAXXFORCE 10 ENGINE
This engine meets the emissions without the UREA (SCA?) system and the little bit of reading I've done makes me think avoiding the complexity of the UREA system is probably a better long-term bet.
The UREA systems are probably a lot simpler overall than the other systems and probably more reliable over the long haul.
As a Supervisor of School Bus Maintenance in a large Jurisdiction,I can assure the Navistar VT-365 is an extremely unreliable engine.The issue with the EGR coolers alone are enough to disqualify it in any poetntial selection of an R.V. We switched to the MaxxForce 7,only to experience E.G.R. issues with this engine as well.We have also been having camshaft & other valvetrain failures.The EGR coolers, to date, have been revised 7 times.We are required to purchase Navistar equipment due to LOW BID criteria placed upon public owned vehicles. We have a few SCR equipped trucks that thusfare have been trouble free.
I figured the systems using urea would work better.
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427435
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01/29/12 11:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Towing a Grand Cherokee behind a V--10
Can't speak to the towablity of the Jeep, or what your MH is rated to tow. However, the V10 has the power. See my signature.
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427435
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01/27/12 10:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: motor
You don't have to pre-mix oil with the gas with most of today's 2 strokes. You do need to keep oil in the engine's oil tank as well as it's gas tank, however.
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427435
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01/27/12 10:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
Whould it cause any issue with fuel milage if i switched from 10w30 to 5w40.
Not that you could measure. If you're worrying about mpg, you shouldn't be driving a MH.
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427435
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01/16/12 07:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
If you are going to spend the money for a good synthetic oil, why not take advantage of their wider multi-vis capability??? Both the Mobil 1 0w-40 and 5w-40 have higher zinc levels and provide a little more bearing protection under heavy engine loads and hotter operating temps than a 10w-30 oil would.
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427435
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01/15/12 06:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
What do you guys think of the amsoil 10w30 synthetic by valvoline
???????????????
Amsoil is not by Valvoline. Some of us refer to Amsoil as Scamsoil.
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427435
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01/15/12 10:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
You have a catalytic converter on your MH?????????????
If you are asking about a car, the only real concern is if you live in an area where you have to take you car in for emission testing. Over time, all catalytic converters will stop working, but they will stop sooner with higher levels of zinc. However, they don't "plug up-------they just quite doing the converting.
I've got a 1993 car with 230,000 miles on it. I've always used one of the higher zinc level Mobil 1 oils in it, and it still runs fine. I have no idea as to what the converter is doing, but it's still there.
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427435
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01/13/12 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
what is wrong with the mobile1 high milage 10w30 with 1100 ppm.This one of the recommended oils in my manual.Manual doesnt list 15w50 or 5w40.
Nothing is wrong with it, per say. The reason manuals don't usually recommend wide range multi-viscosity oils is the shear down factor with dino oils. A 5w-40 dino oil (if one is available) will shear down faster and farther than a 10w-30 dino oil.
However, neither a 10w-30 or 5w-40 synthetic oil will shear down much if at all. But most manuals are written with the thought that the owner will be using the cheaper dino oil.
However, if you are willing to spend the extra money for synthetic, you can have the advantage of a 5w oil for quicker startup lubrication and better cold weather cranking without sacrificing the advantage of a 40 weight oil when hot and under heavy load.
And in the end, the synthetic oil doesn't cost much (if any) more as you can extend the oil change intervals some.
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427435
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01/13/12 09:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
Take a look at the Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel oil. It would be fine for your engine also, and you wouldn't have to worry about cold start wear and tear.
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427435
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01/11/12 08:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
That is very comforting to here.Maybe i was wrong.As far as that goes,Since you are bringing up that you are surprised that their is a cat on my coach.I will go ahead and bring up the fact that i cant find anything in my manual that states anything about a catalytic converter in the emission control section of it.I just figured their was one their because it is supposed to be a law.I think i will go ahead and go with the mobile 15W50 like 427435 suggested.
Just don't try and start it when it's below freezing. That could do as much harm to things as using oil with too little zinc.
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427435
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01/11/12 07:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: oil
I used 10w30 yr round in my 91 454 without ever any issues...towing in 100+ weather or driving in zero weather
should use 20-50 if in 100 degree heat
In a MKIV engine I agree....Not a MKV or MKVI
tolerances were tightened drastically in the 5 and 6 versions...but to each their own
Age old mis-conception. While tolerances may be tighter, the MINIMUM bearing clearances aren't tighter. It's just that with tighter tolerances, the variance in bearing clearances is smaller.
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427435
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01/11/12 11:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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