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RE: Front seems like it is drifting, went to CAT scales
Quite thoughtful and well-done posts, Wes Tausend, they are among what makes reading this online forum worth the while. I also learned the hard way to not assume that alignment (TV or TT) is correct from the factory. Your reflections add to the "tool kit" quite nicely.
I hope the OP will take seriously that it is in the small things that the big things are revealed. It is quite important to drill down on each of any mechanical relationship issues. Setting the baseline, one might say, is the difference between the men and the boys. Our vehicles are not (should not) be disposable, and the conscientious owner can, by being meticulous, receive years of extra life at a higher level of reliability and performance. Safety is within these relationships . . for only then does driver skill begin to matter. And driver skill changes every minute, every day and with every advancing year.
Thanks, again.
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/24/12 07:28pm |
Towing
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RE: Getting ready to go full time!!! Where to winter?
Anything south of San Antonio (South Texas) is an easy "winter" . . it's about ten days during January into earliest February.
The winds are another story.
That said, it isn't hard to find $300 monthly rates and there are plenty of places that are nice (which in my mind excludes the RGV).
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/15/12 06:19pm |
Full-time RVing
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RE: A/C Issues With Dodge Ram?
The engine fan engages too late when the AC is on, so head pressure goes way up and pushes some refrigerant out the PR valve on the compressor. I (and many others) have added electric fans to help the condenser air flow. I also insulated the bare section of suction line under the hood, between the orifice tube and the firewall. I get cold air FAST and it does fine around town at 110+ degrees. I know I have some broken dampers but I still have good AC so I don't really need defrost or floor air in these parts and it's been that way for 2 yrs. Craig
You can search the DODGE forums a long time . . and this is what you'll come up with.
HEATER TREATER replacement doors are another upgrade/fix.
If you have a slow leaker on the Dodge 2003-2006 2500/3500 you can pull the resistor for fan out of the bottom of the case and get a decent look at evaporator surface. Usually the leaking spot will have telltale oily dirt buildup.
Dodges can have reduced high side pressure and better cooling at low speeds with a foam filler seal above condenser to make air be drawn through condenser and not bypass go through intercooler in that gap. I sealed the sides too but the one that did the most was that top being sealed. I would imagine it had some effect upwards on outlet temp of intercooler. The owner would never know the higher intake air temp to engine but they sure applauded the cooler a/c.
The evaporator temp probe is stuck into top of evaporator case behind glove box. If you open glove box and push back top corners towards each other the box will deform and the rubber stops will clear the dash fram and box will drop down and can be removed entirely if you want.
Look at about level of top of opening on the black case and you will see two green wires (Green on all as I recall) that are very small gauge going to a white connector. The white connctor is the temp probe. It pops out of the case. The bottom end is turned to be closer to evaporator surface. I've seen freeze up when the probe is not snapped in, when the probe is dirty or fuzzy on end, and when the probe is defective.
If it is snapped in and clean then replace it. The other issue that can effect this is a dirty evaporator. Dog, cat, and human hair and other light debis can be sucked in by blower motor and deposit on the inlet side of evaporator and the airflow robs the probe of air it needs to know the correct temp. Cleaning evaporator requires removing it usually. Sometime air blower with tube extension through resistor opening can clean it somewhat. On vehicles using these probe types the sesnor on the end of the probe can absorb moisture and it offsets its value enough that true temp of 36 my be registerd by climate module as 46-48. 34-36 is the level to shut off compressor and 48 is the on temperature.
If it doesn't shut off at the correct temp it will freeze over. This is more likely to occur at night or cloudy days and with lower blower speeds.
Great info . . deserves a dinner at the Ranchman's Cafe there in Ponder!!
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/15/12 05:53pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Cat Scales
I may use a CAT Scale as much as three times daily. Hard to argue with results which can be replicated nationwide in any re-weigh to see where changes or adjustments are warranted.
In addition to the above uses to verify hitch rigging adjustments, also keep in mind from the massive REVISED tire thread from the engineers involved that public scales have their use also in uncovering individual wheel/tire loads.
The use of axle averages is a good start. But the load may differ across a given axle per load and it is the heaviest load to which tire pressure changes are to be adjusted.
Not all CAT Scales are installed so as to "allow" driving with either port or starboard tires only onto the pads. Some are. There are other "public scales" at household mvoing companies, grain elevators and elsewhere which would allow this drive-on arrangement to check individual loadings.
As has been pointed out in the referenced thread, the heaviest tire/wheel with a roughly 12-15% load reserve calculation made should be the basis for the choice of proper tire/wheel capacity for a given vehicle.
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/09/12 11:25am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Diesel MPG?
As long as diesel drivers insist on keeping up with the traffic in the left lane, no matter what they drive or tow, their MPG will never be more than 2-3 MPG better than an otherwise identical gasoline-fueled combo.
And who can fairly care about MPG observed under normal conditions? If you really care about MPG, you drive for MPG, no matter how many one-finger salutes it gets you. They aren't paying for your gas, they have no right to ask you to waste it just because they're in a selfish and illegal hurry.
When you drive for MPG, you will get better MPG than what you saw on your window sticker. If not, your driving style is wrong, the vehicle's tune / maintenance is wrong, or you made mods that are wrong.
My own diesel was EPA-rated to do 31 MPG. Nobody ever got that, because nobody ever drove smart, like the EPA scientists. The gasoline alternative was rated around 65-75% of that MPG, so diesel can do the MPG you should expect it to do.
It still comes back to drag, and it increases exponentially. So the more you start with, the more it hurts you to go another 5 MPH faster. Then yet another 5 MPH faster.
You want MPG, then never again exceed 55 MPH. This is legal on every interstate in America. And the only reason we even have minimum speed limits is for the wealthy to enjoy the costly luxury of going 75.
I'm running out of different ways to elaborate on this. Y'all are wasting fuel that I'm gonna need long after all y'all have switched from oil-based fuels.
The rare enough quality of paying attention is on display to good effect, here.
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/09/12 11:09am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Can you tow a Travel trailer in express lanes
It's simpler to think of it this way:
I'm not exiting the highway. I'm also not the fastest vehicle (nor a commercial vehicle).
I want the lane that is non-stop, so to speak, and that tends to be center or left of center.
I'm not in the least concerned that I am traveling slower than some other traffic so long as I am within stated minimums and maximums. The former may not be posted, or may not exist. This is, after all, a public roadway.
I'd rather leave the left-most lane to the four wheelers, but not if the alternative is the right-most lane as I am part of the "through traffic".
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/02/12 08:37am |
Towing
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RE: Breakaway Switch Testing
The breakaway switches are cheap. And cheaply made. Testing is good, but replacement every 3-5 years is also good. Its' functional value far outweighs the very low replacement cost.
I concur on attaching lanyard to vehicle rather than any hitch receiver point (as well as being longer than safety chains).
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/02/12 08:31am |
Towing
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RE: Diesel MPG?
The problem with fuel mileage numbers is they mean very little, This forum and many daily conversations are full of reports of that one particular trip when most of the driving was downhill with a tail wind, vehicle at lower speeds and the fillup didn't quite make it to the top, thus providing a specific and unrealistic fuel mileage number. That number then becomes gospel to the proud owner. Realistic numbers come from months of everyday driving, pulling, empty or a combination of both. That's the number most of us don't know, and if we do, tend to hide. Looking for fuel mileage to justify buying or rejecting diesel power makes little sense for the average recreational owner. The vehicle's capability and owner's needs are what should make that decision.
Yup, the only thing that matters is the average mpg. Cost of ownership means all gallons for all miles.
If mpg is a real concern then some investigation into which brands and model years are best for longest life at lowest cost with greatest reliability. 2WD Dodge with manual transmission tops that list for nearly any year of consideration.
My average mpg the past 38,000-miles is 22. (Less than half of that is highway, but anyone who understands how vehicle fuel economy works understands that city mpg is potentially higher than highway).
It's easier to understand (at $4/gl diesel) that solo is 15-cpm (cents per mile) as my fuel cost, and towing is 25-cpm fuel cost for trip planning. (It can be better, but for predictive purposes this works over generally level terrain).
Whatever the TV brand and spec, being able to predict the per-mile cost for fuel is the only relevance to the overall picture of what constitutes Economy. Vehicle purchase price, depreciation, taxes, finance charges, insurance, maintenance and repairs over a given time period are more important than fuel cost.
Mpg highs and lows are meaningless, and easily subject to manipulation. The average is the key number, and percentage changes to that is where fuel economy really exists.
Breaking out the average for towing versus non-towing is relevant if the percentage of miles traveled is included. And then linked to the total number of miles during ownership.
And, in turn, this must be linked to the TT/TV combination: how long owned and how often used. If the per night expenditure is high, then fuel economy is not enough to offset the difference.
Thus, if Economy (in all it's aspects) is important, start with a clean sheet of paper that the TT/TV combination be the best possible. New versus used, etc. High highway mpg and high solo mpg can be done if the TT is carefully chosen, thus the TV no "larger" than necessary.
In this instance: Put the cart before the horse. One is likely to own the TT longer than the TV. Especially so if the TT is of the quality to last a lifetime (quarter century plus).
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/02/12 08:14am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Four wheel drive or two wheel drive?
After forty years in the highway construction business, the thing I learned is that 4wd lets drivers get stuck even further from the road than 2wd. I was in and out of ditches, on and off the road and enjoyed the benefits of 2wd. Lower, cheaper, better ride, and less maintenance. My various Jeeps were for playing in the mud.
Pay attention to the above quote. Think it through. It is consistent with what plenty of others who use pickups for business have concluded.
If you want to spend more at the outset, buy 4WD. If you want a higher maintenance cost per mile, buy 4WD. If you want more frequent and expensive repairs, buy 4WD. If you want higher fuel consumption bills, buy 4WD. If you want more frequent tire replacement, buy 4WD. If you want deadened steering feel, greater turning radius and slower response, buy 4WD. If you want lesser brake performance, buy 4WD. If you want higher COG and worsened handling, buy 4WD. If you want lowered payload, buy 4WD. If you want ingress & egress too high for older adults and children, buy 4WD. If you want shortened vehicle life, by comparison, buy 4WD.
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/02/12 07:50am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Towing a streamlined trailer
THere is no real comparison with a V-nose square box and a fully radiused edged travel trailer with rounded front & rear fascia.
The "advantage" to a V-nose is tiny. The square back of the trailer is almost as important and this is not addressed. Next are the rounded edges at the walls/roof. Squared edges allow winds to pile up and push. Extra bad in the wrong conditions.
A square trailer gets "pushed" around by the wind. A trailer similar in shape to an Airstream is "pulled". The effect of wind is lessened, tremendously, as the "pull" is nowhere near as strong as the "push". Towing an A/S in 40-mph crosswinds is do-able, but would be foolish with a squared box.
The radiused edge shape has much less affect per winds on the TV in comparison. Is easily handled by a VPP hitch. This translates into fewer steering corrections, not just lowered drag (which is reduced horsepower for a given speed).
Never let anyone call a modified nose square trailer aerodynamic as it does not meet enough critieria to be called such. An aero trailer, to be called such, needs:
1] Rounded front and rear fascia
2] Radiused edges at walls & roof join
3] Fully enclosed underside (also radiused edge)
4] Lowered road clearance
The addition of independent suspension is second to the above, but is as important for TT stability (which, again, is lessened effect on the TV).
Lower road horsepower requirement, reduced wind resistance from any angle, and sophisticated suspension is what make it possible for a variety of TV's to be chosen for an A/S trailer.
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/02/12 07:40am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Revived Trailer Tire Thread (formerly on the 5th Wheel Forum
A take away from this is direct to CapriRacers point. You need to know each wheels actual weight. Some how this needs to be an easier process then how I did it but this is what I had to work with.
Yup,
And, if JBarca applies his tools then it's good enough for any man to follow to his own advantage.
This thread continues to give. One of the bar none best RV threads ever done.
Thanks.
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'68Monaco440HP
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05/02/12 07:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Airstream......??
Airstream was the lowest quality trailer of the aerodynamic aluminum trailers marketed after World War II. The others are out of business as prices went up, but American family income did not.
All sorts of used trailer bargains out there of this type.
Trailers of this sort need a re-fresh after about 20-years. They're easily good for forty years or more.
The expensive trailer is the one that must be replaced every few years (note here and on other threads the number of trailers owned by some over a 20-30 year period), requires a fuel-inefficent tow vehicle that is worn down sooner (costs more to operate every mile and must be replaced more often, not to mention the higher cost solo miles), and requires a great deal more work to even start to come close to A/S road performance (which it will never equal).
The arguments about space are flat funny. Are you holding a barn dance indoors? Do you carry a 7500W generator for boondocking on the Gulf Coast, or a 250-lb propane tank to overwinter somewhere to heat/cool that extra air space? 2000 tee shirts to pack? Just what is one giving up? Thousands have full-timed in this trailer type over tens or hundreds of thousands of miles with decades of ownership of just one trailer. Sometimes across all the continents, not just a few Interstate highways near home.
So, when one is indoors one is either sitting or sleeping . . just how fat are you and the spouse that bigger is better?? Gotta have that gigantic black tank, huh? The circus freak arguments are really funny.
So if I want to spend more money, accept inferior design and construction, accept really, truly lousy performance and fuel economy then the "bigger" "cheaper" trailer that is not economical, roadworthy or lasting is somehow the better choice? Buy what you will, but analyzing the numbers reveals a different picture than the usual garbage about "lifestyle" . . and something as dumb as a Harley has in common the mentality which buys on a whim. Not a near-permanent asset to a family as the right aero aluminum trailer can be.
Some will always let appearances fool them. But numbers are for those who will use them. Lifestyle is not at issue . . it's a word for dummies that acts as a "concept" (as it is based on nothing).
You want a box, buy a box. But don't ever believe it to be anything but the far more expensive choice it actually is.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/23/12 01:11pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Keeping Your Books In Your RV
The thread is about books, the real thing, not alternatives . . correct?
I saw above two approaches that I also use: reference books kept, and shelving that contains the books from movement when traveling.
I'd like to add that the weight of 6-7' linear feet of hardbound quality books is substantial. And that it should be as much as possible close to the trailer centerline. Divided port & starboard. Or, offset by canned goods, etc on the other side.
I generally read 3-5 books weekly. Paperbacks are more trouble than worthwhile for eyestrain alone (yes, I have a better reading lamp than you have in your home or trailer), and as with the other suggestions in threads above there are ways to mail full size books back and forth, especially if one has friends or relatives who are also readers (more than ten books annually is the basic requirement for literacy; motivation attaches to that). As I'm the one in the TT I usually buy more of them than others. And spend more on mailing costs. Well worth the trouble and expense. Compared to wasted life (and expense) in front of the boob tube it's cheaper when understood.
Don't forget that if in one area awhile that local libraries may offer access for a fee. This is a lifesaver.
But carrying books around that will never be read again, is, I'd agree, a trouble not worth taking on. If they don't get used then, like old clothing, time to move them on. Those are the ones to store electronically or with relatives.
IF you come to Texas check out the nations largest bookstore at Archer City owned by author Larry McMurtry. Several days worth of browsing recommended.
Booked Up
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 10:55pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: One for the weight police - off topic
Gotta love that photo. I've seen it before too. The Chivvy guys were pray-oud of thar brutha.
Was once following a vulture in a pickup who stole pallets from behind warehouses in a district of Dallas where I worked. He lost part of his load in not clearing a 16' clearance bridge. I was helpful in calling the po-po from a booth as some of those pallets cost me money . . in the good old days before massive immigration they had time and men to get there in time to make things right. Yes, I got my six $12 pallets back.
Takes all kinds.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 10:30pm |
Towing
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RE: "Band-Aid" available for the 2013 Ram 1500 "mushy" rear coils!!!
A quiet night on the South Texas grasslands. Interrupted by my laughter. Great thread guys.
There are things I like about leaf springs. But not enough to want them on cars or 1/2T's as the bandaids to make them ride well aren't worth it. Up to a particular size of trailer (aero, weight, length) a coil sprung 1/2T will be just right for a bunch of vacationers who otherwise commute in their DD pickemups. Give it good fuel mileage and it ought to be a winner.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 10:16pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Changing your rear-end...gears!
There's no magic involved. A careful analysis can be made in favor of a gear change increasing mpg for the way the truck is used especially when all the other factors of mpg are in play (keeping rolling and aerodynamic resistance low, among others).
CUMMINS says the most economical range for the TD is 1,300-1,500 rpm. If I can more closely nail that rpm range in all driving, town & country, then I'm that much closer to maximum mpg. I am likely to change from my present 3.73 to the next lower 3.42 to accomplish this. I've checked the rpm range I'd be running in for a variety of city and country driving and it works (especially based on comparisons from others who have done this).
For towing there can be trade-off. As my TV/TT combination won't meet GCWR, -- the TT is maxed out at 8k (possibly 9k depending on next trailer) -- the combined rig is under the recommended 20k.
Now, if the TT was in excess of 10k as well as non-aero and the expected terrain was hilly/mountainous then this gear change would be ill-advised. The more so with a high percentage of towing miles. In fact going to 4.10 would be more likely, for me, than adding a magic box (or worse).
So for vacation travel the prospect that so worries the sheeple of being slow on the grades isn't a valid concern. No matter how slow it still will be faster up Raton or La Veta than '73 V8-440 with the same trailer. That's different than doing it daily or weekly. Same for any acceleration/throttle events due to weight or altitude. Coming down the other side is what matters. If I move to Colorado then I'd change gears again based on what I was doing at that point in time.
But not everyone wants to travel at 58-mph/1,725 rpm as I do at present when towing or solo highway driving. Or choose the gear/rpm over exact speed when in town. I shift at 1,500 as it is right now. The engine "recovers" just fine at 1100-rpm (comes back in at), and driving in such a way as to keep the highest gear so long as the engine can pull it is consistent with CUMMINS recommendations.
As it is I run out of gear too soon. A higher gear would put the truck and driver on the same page. More "use" from each gear as -- even loaded and towing -- the 3.73 ratio isn't needed for more than adequate performance. Entering roadways is more driver skill than acceleration anyway. I often have the cruise control on before the end of the entrance ramp. (And this combo is a whole lot "faster" than the 18-wheelers I drive for work).
Is it a fix for a guy who still wants to run 70? No, but he doesn't care about mpg (or longest life) anyway. It's out-loud-guffaw laughable for the ones who trade trucks every 5-7 years especially. That group couldn't define economy on a bet.
The horsepower demand doubles from 55 to 70 mph and gearing changes need to work with that. There are many other factors to consider and correct before a gear change will make a difference that is sensible from a dollars & cents perspective. When all else has been done . . and the plans for the truck are consistent with this purpose, then a gearing change can be "economical".
This will be the first non-stock addition to my truck. At a current 22-mpg average the past 37k miles I've already "saved" over 4,000-gls of fuel compared to the usual 15-mpg CTD average reported when extrapolated to the 180k miles the truck has on it (were all those things constant). You might say I can do quite a lot for free, in comparison. ROI is easier engine life, not just increased mpg.
With $4/gl diesel I am seeing fuel costs of 15-cpm solo, and 25-cpm towing for planning purposes. I'll remain closer to that even with rising prices . . I've already picked the low-hanging fruit of mpg prior to this.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 09:14pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: It is Rattlesnake season, beware
You haven't lived until you've had a water moccasin try to crawl into your boat!!!
I would have a new boat on order. Seems the old one would not hold water.:hNow thats funny I dont care who you are!!!:B
Jesus ain't the only one can walk on water . . watched my old man do it at Lake Sam Rayburn circa 1971.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 08:12pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Just Plain Gross
I was fueling at a Flying J and a lady in a Class C with a couple of kids pulls up to the dump station. She pulls a trash bag out from a compartment, reaches in and pulls a white water hose out. She hooks up the hose and starts filling her water tank. Then she reaches into the bag again and pulls out the sewer hose, hooks it up and dumps her tanks.
She finished, put the sewer hose back in the bag, then the white water hose, then stowed it into the basement compartment and drove away.
She probably wonders why she and her kids always get sick when they use the MH.
Best Regards!
But hey; because she's using the trash bag, the inside of her storage compartment is clean, right? There's logic in there somewhere.
The end of the world will come but those kids immune systems will power them right past the rest.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 08:08pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Do you still love your old truck?
Coming up on nine years since built later this year. At 180k with one $45 repair. Still averaging 22-mpg solo, all miles. I figure (have budgeted) that it is at the half-way point for time & miles. 2021 is still a ways off for me to be concerned about another.
Mea Culpa
Hey Monaco I owe you an apology...I was bickering with you a few weeks back about mpg's...but you got me thinking...I adjusted my driving style and eliminated short trips (taking wife's car for short runs exclusively)...I have been SHOCKED at the results so far as I've gained over 3mpg.
I stand corrected my friend, Cheers :C
Hijack over; on topic, still love my 2002 108k mile Land Cruiser...going to keep it even when I go back to a 4x4 crew p/u this year
Apologies, shmologies. Accepted, but not necessary. What was that 3-mpg worth in real numbers? That is, the percentage change. If I make some changes that net me 4-mpg in some driving it doesn't mean much as others can't really make a comparison . . but when it's understood that it was a 22% increase in mpg then we're cooking with gas! (Ha!)
Or, if my usual weekly fuel bill is $60 then the saved $13 is nearly $675 at the end of a year. At $4/gl that means 170/gls of free fuel.
For others, what we're speaking of is:
Combine all trips. Map addresses and go to the farthest point first and work back to the house or office. Eliminate left hand turns. (MAPQUEST will do it automatically). Fewer trips driven more skilfully pays cash money.
Glad that it worked for you as it did for me. A long trail back to the first guy who figured it out. Fun to tell them around the campfire that "I don't care about towing mpg, my fuel is free".
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/13/12 08:00pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: It is Rattlesnake season, beware
Come on down to South Texas. AZ and the rest ain't got nothin' on this region when it comes to rattlers. Just Google "South Texas" and "rattlesnake".
Every spring the same two signs go up simultaneously:
- Snake Bite Anti-venom (at every veterinarian)
- Snake Boot Sale (at every possible outlet and then some)
http://www.snakeboots.com/order/chippewa/images/24947.jpg
Nothing quite like a revolving tree of snake boots as you enter a convenience store out on a remote stretch of highway to make you stop and think.
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'68Monaco440HP
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04/11/12 02:16pm |
General RVing Issues
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