pompomgirl
Edmonds, WA
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Joined: 10/02/2011
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When I had my Toyota Chinook, I remember that keeping the propane refrigerator level when running seemed to be a big deal, to the extent that the vendor said to switch it to 12V when traveling. Now my husband thinks that's not critical. Is it? Or why else, other than not rolling off the bed, is leveling so important?
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StarkNaked
seattle, wa
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Joined: 09/13/2006
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http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm
Out of Level.
If the cooling unit is operated in a stationary, out of level position (on any heat source), it will eventually become permanently damaged. Before we go any further, there is one more ingredient inside the cooling unit: sodium chromate. The ammonia solution inside the cooling unit is a mild corrosive, and sodium chromate is mixed with the ammonia solution (ammonia and water) to neutralize the corrosive effects of the solution, protecting the inner pipes of the cooling unit.
Since the cooling unit depends greatly on the effects of gravity for moving the liquids and gases inside, running it off level and stationary causes these liquids and gases to collect in unwanted areas and not be recycled back to the boiler. The liquid level inside the boiler begins to drop and become weaker. Eventually, the water in the ammonia solution begins to vaporize with the ammonia and leave the boiler. At some point, the boiler becomes dry and the temperature rises rapidly inside. The sodium chromate which was once in solution with the ammonia solution is left behind and begins to burn and permanently change state from a powder into a sort of sludge that will eventually plug the perk tube. If left to cook long enough, the sodium chromate will become as hard as steel. If the cooling unit were "saved" from this out of level condition by being leveled, or the heat source turned off, any sodium chromate that had changed state would not return to a powder in solution with the ammonia solution. This makes it possible to ruin a cooling unit a little at a time.
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Frosty's Mom
Treasure Valley, SW Idaho
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Joined: 01/29/2008
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i had certainly understood it was important and it's covered in the manual. that thing is too expensive to have to replace because of carelessness when it's such a simple thing and really merely adds to the comfort level of the rig. why would there be so many levelors on the market if it weren't. no big deal. we get where we are going--i ck it out and do what needs to be done to level it while the DH sits behind the wheel......
wee3-gin, clyde & the bichon frise
2003 Minnie Winnie 30V - "The Frosty Hauler"
May the Angels guide your wheels and ride on your shoulder.
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Old-Biscuit
Across the USA
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Joined: 06/20/2009
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Leveling is ALL about refrigerator operation.......unless you have a residential style refrigerator with a compressor.
It's not super critical that you have it EXACTLY level.
Comfortable is level enough. Open refrigerator door and if it doesn't quickly swing way open or back closed it's close enough.
The refrigerator system works off of thermal dynamics....heat and in order for the heat/vapor/condensate actions to occur the refrigerator needs to be relatively level.
As for that vendor and his statement to switch to 12V when traveling.....doubt it was concerning the issue of being level. Had more to do with using 12V as a safer mode than LP Gas when traveling and refueling.
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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A ammonia refrigerator relies on being level for the ammonia and water mixture to return to the boiler while parked. When driving, it is much less critical because shifting around usually returns the ammonia mixture to the boiler, however while in a construction zone, a RV.net member reported their RV refrigerator stopped working, they planned on taking it back to the dealer, left it off over the weekend, and tried it once back home. IT had fixed itself on the drive home, I explained that driving while off, the ammonia mixture dissolved any dried out ammonia and it all started working again on it's own.
Your 1970's or early 80's Toyota RV was much more critical to have it level than a 90's or 2000 model year refrigerator. It seems that they redesigned the back end of the refrigerator to slope back to the boiler better than before, and seem to have over temperature shut down on the boiler that should stop the fire for a little while if it gets to warm (like when out of ammonia mixture).
So while you still should level the RV to keep the refrigerator working right, it is much less critical than in years past.
By the way, running on gas, the burner is about 2,200 Btu's per hour, with about 1,800 actually heating the boiler, the rest lost to the flue. When on 120 volts, typical heater size is 300 watts (if you have a 350 or more watt heater, replace it with 300 watt to avoid cracking the tubing that the heater element sits in) that is about 925 Btu's heating the boiler. A typical 12 volt heater is about 20 amps, or about 240 watts, and 800 Btu's to the boiler.
So it really does not matter much if you operated the Toyota (or todays) refrigerator off level on gas or 12 volt electric, the boiler can still go dry (just takes more time on 12 volts). Driving will return the ammonia mixture to the boiler fine, and I run mine on gas all the time while not plugged in at a campground. I do put down my levelers when parked for more than about 20 minutes, and shut off the refrigerator while getting fuel.
Fred.
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old guy
Oregon (pronounced Or e gun)
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Joined: 03/15/2006
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half a bubble off is the most out of level I would be. for reasons stated above. when the fridge is running while driving down the road, the rocking and rolling is enough to keep the ammonia moving in the tubes.
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skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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It is STILL very important but it has NEVER been an issue while traveling. Your dealer has misinformed you.
Good luck / Skip
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
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tenbear
Northern Vermont, USA
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Modern RV refrigerators are spec'd as level within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. If you are close to this you will feel it. The floor will be sloping and you will be uncomfortable. Probably more important to have the stove level so the fried eggs come out right. When you are driving, even up and down hills, there is enough bouncing around that the liquid won't pool.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory
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bobwalter
Treasure Coast of Florida
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I level because the Admiral says we will level.
Bob .....N8DUV
in sunny Sebastian, Florida
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Eyegor
NY
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Old-Biscuit wrote:Leveling is ALL about refrigerator operation.......unless you have a residential style refrigerator with a compressor.
It's not super critical that you have it EXACTLY level.
Comfortable is level enough. Open refrigerator door and if it doesn't quickly swing way open or back closed it's close enough.
+1 If I can walk around comfortably and things aren't spilling and sliding then it is level enough for me. Who knows, maybe one day I'll learn.
87 Mallard Sprinter 24' Class C Ford E350 w/460 gas "The Runny Duck"
Shiny side up, Rubber side down.
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