CallThisCamping?!
Poway, CA.
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Joined: 04/10/2002
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We have a 2011 Winnebago Adventurer 32H. Really like it a lot.
One issue that I'm concerned with is that the chassis air conditioning does not seem to get COLD. It gets a little cool, but not COLD, as our last MH did on MaxAC. I have had the selling dealer look into it, and they assure me it is working normally. I realize that I could run the rooftop air on the road, don't really want to. Since we live in southern most California, all our trips start with a long run either through the desert, or the central valley, where it is usually very hot (in the summer when we travel).
I am basing this solely on comparisons to our previous class C that got so cold that we would have to turn it down often. The coach is still under warranty. Should I just take it to a ford dealer to check out? I think the selling dealer is more concerned about 'house' issues than chassis issues. Maybe it's a re-reimbursement thing from the factory. How would I find a ford dealer willing to work on a motor home in the north San Diego area? That would accept that if a repair (or recharge) is needed, it should be covered under warranty?
Thanks for reading.
Tony Tait
2011 Winnebago Adventurer 32H
Pulling 2002 Jeep Liberty
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rolnhome
Casa Grande, Az
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Joined: 11/19/2007
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Call Winnebago and ask for an authorized non dealer service facility near you.
We're in Arizona
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sd1209
Fallbrook, Ca
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Joined: 09/16/2009
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I have an 06 on the F53 chassis.....The chassis a/c compressor went out last year and I took it to the dealer to fix as it was on an ext warranty....
I had very good luck with Kearny Pearson Ford in Kearny Mesa....The service advisor went above the norm in dealing with the ext warr company (an hour on the phone over 2-3 calls) who wanted to pay only for a reman compressor....the dealer just does new parts so he made it all work for me, even covered the deductible of 100.00......This dealer works on MH's and at least in my case I would go back.....It was done right on on-time....
I have no connection to this dealer....
Steve and Liz
Fallbrook, Ca
2006 Gulfstream Independence 30' 3 slides....V-10...
2010 Wrangler w/Blue Ox Towbar, Baseplate and braking system
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sch911
Rochester Hills, MI
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Joined: 04/13/2003
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May be as simple as the hot water valve not closing. Follow the heater hoses to find it, make sure it's turning off flow when in A/C mode. Your hand can tell you if it's working simply by feeling the heat in the hoses.
Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep Engineer
2003 Damon Challenger 348 Class A - F53 Triton V10
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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Hi,
Recharging a air conditioner is a balance. If there is to much freon, the pressures go to high, and the compressor is not going to move as many cubic feet of freon, thus less cooling will suffer to some extent. Also a leak can cause low freon conditions, and with in-adaquate amount of freon in the system, less freon is pumped, and lack of cooling capacity.
I have a very accurate freon leak detector ($400) and work in your area for a large commercial air conditioning company. It would be possible to detect a leaking system, that would be covered under warranty without dis-assembly of the dash or anything. And I have the proper freon gauges to measure the high and low side pressures on a 134A freon system (another $150 tool with the low loss fittings).
While Ford would cover a bad compressor, the other parts such as evaporator and blower motor are things installed by Winnabego, and would be covered by that company under it's warranty. It might be that you are expecting to much from the dash air, and your van based system worked exceptionally well, yet this one is medium working level, or that the system is working normally, or there is a freon leak. All this can be determined by checking the freon pressures and temperatures of the air coming out of the dash vents.
So if air going in is around 70F, the air coming out should be in the 48 - 54F range with the engine idle around 1,200 RPM.
The amount of freon moving through the engine increases with higher RPM's, so idle is not going to give the same results as 2,000 RPM (almost double the freon flow). Sometimes a mechanic will overcharge a system by filling it until the pressure is high at idle, and when at road speed of 2,400 RPM, the high pressure side becomes over 175PSI, and the system can shut off on high pressure (if it has a high pressure switch) or high thermal temperature (some compressors have a high temp switch built into them).
And of course if the heater valve is stuck open about 10%, this can warm the air going into the drivers compartment. I put a secondary valve on my motorhome to stop flow in the summer, along with a water filter to help clean up the radiator water.
Fred.
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Pirate
East Of The Mississippi
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Joined: 05/20/2002
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My 06 compressor went out too. Actually, it was spewing oil all over the place, and I opted to just change it out. My dash system will freeze us out. Get yours to a good repair place.
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Pawz4me
North Carolina
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Joined: 06/05/2007
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Our compressor went out, too. Luckily it was just a few days before the warranty expired. Doesn't usually work that way.
Me and the DH 
Two boys and two dogs (and two cats who prefer to stay home)
2008 Forest River Georgetown 350DS (bunkhouse model)
2001 Honda CR-V
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LVJ58
Las Vegas, Nevada
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Joined: 02/26/2001
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sch911 may have hit on the problem, but also consider you have a much larger area to cool in a class "A" as compared to the cab of a class "C."
Hopefully you'll get it working satisfactorily.
Safe travels...
Jim & Sherry Seward
Las Vegas, NV
2000 Residency 3790 V-10 w/tags & Banks System
2003 Suzuki XL/7 toad
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