Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Battery Issues when boondocking..........
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 > Battery Issues when boondocking..........

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trackdude

Bucksport, Maine

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Posted: 01/30/12 05:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We've done a lot of RVing but very little boondocking. We will be staying for one night at Cabelas in CT in early March. Just a sleep-and-go.

What can we expect from our battery for one night? Early March could still be cold in CT. Can we expect to run our heater? Any other issues we need to be concerned about?

Oh, yeah, should we unhook the trailer electric from the car electric?

donn0128

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Posted: 01/30/12 06:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If and that is a big IF you have a single gp24 battery and IF it is nearly new you will probably be able to make one night. A furnace can kill a single battery in a matter of a few hours. I suggest you run the furnace to take the chill off till bed time and then cut the thermostat down to maybe 50 and go to bed.


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Jayco-noslide

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Posted: 01/30/12 06:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have 1 middle size battery in a small 5th wheel. Usually 1 night is not a problem even with a little furnace running. And we often run a fantastic fan on low all night. But we have learned to just be very conservative no matter what the situation. Very little lighting in the evening(we have a good propane lantern)and just no unneccesary use of electricity. We do have a Honda 2000 generator and try to make sure we have full charge before we have to shut it down.


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MNtundraRet

Bloomington, MN

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Posted: 01/30/12 06:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the furnace is left on and using the thermostat it could kill one battery the first night. It will use less battery to turn it on and run it until the temperature gets to about 75F. Turn it off until the lower temperature gets uncomfortable (35 to 45F). Then go through the same sequence again.

Using the thermostat normally causes the furnace to cycle on and off about 5 or 6 times an hour to hold a contant temperature. The starting and stopping actually uses more current than an occasional long run. The electronic ignition and starting the blower use mour juice than a constant run. You might get by with only 2 or 3 warm-ups. Furnaces use 7 amps or every hour run.

Disconnect the connection between tv and trailer or the starter-battery will be drawn down ahead of the deep-cycle battery because of it's thinner plates.


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skipnchar

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Posted: 01/30/12 06:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One night will probably be your limit. Of course if you're camping in a parking lot, MOST folks say they just stop for a few hours sleep, not a true overnight. BTW: Boondocking requires that you be in the boondocks
Good luck / Skip


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trackdude

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Posted: 01/30/12 06:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've thought about adding another battery. I'm assuming that would help?


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tktplz

Lake Bistineau, Louisiana

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Posted: 01/30/12 07:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1 question I have is how much room do you have in your battery box/area in your RV. My TC had a group 24 regular interstate deep cycle inside a vented plastic battery box inside a cabinet. Because I had space I switched to a 30HT AGM battery with 125Amp Hrs. My local battery house has some blemished AGM deep cycles in that bigger size for 125.00 each plus tax. 136.00 bucks out the door. Oh yeah, a Group 30HT deep cycle weighs 108 Lbs. It's not light by any means.....it's actually pretty darn heavy. But for 136.00 bucks, I'm there!
Not this trip but the next time you need to get a battery think about it. AGM batteries don't off gas, means needs no venting, recharge faster than wet/lead cells, hold up to bumps in the road, never need water, avg. 6 to 8 years service but can last as long as 12 and can be on their sides, upside down doesn't matter, their good.
Hope this helps, maybe not right now but just something to think about when you do have to change the old battery out.


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Mello Mike

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Posted: 01/31/12 06:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd buy another battery. Amp hours are the key and you want more of them.


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JiminDenver

Denver, Co

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Posted: 01/31/12 08:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We boondock a lot and right now only have the single battery that came with the trailer. ( 96 a).

We can make it a night no problem with the temps in the 20s. We are very conservative with the power and with the furnace set to 50 after we warm up, a fully charged battery will drop from 12.84 to 12.5 over night.
One night we left the porch light on by accident and set the furnace at 65 and we were down to 12.24 by late morning.

BTW by conservative I mean no house lights, turn off the pump and WT when not in use and we even turn off the fridge overnight.

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beemerphile1

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Posted: 01/31/12 09:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

trackdude wrote:


...We will be staying for one night at Cabelas...Just a sleep-and-go.

What can we expect from our battery for one night?...Can we expect to run our heater?...


You can run the furnace providing you have a battery in good condition.
one battery = one night

trackdude wrote:


Any other issues we need to be concerned about?


Nope, just be aware that nothing 120 volt will work, only those things that operate on battery or LPG.

trackdude wrote:


Oh, yeah, should we unhook the trailer electric from the car electric?


That depends, if the car/tow vehicle (TV) is wired correctly the power will cut off with the ignition. You will have to check and find out. If it doesn't disconnect you could have a low starting battery in the morning.


Tim

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