HiTechRVer
Park city
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Joined: 09/22/2010
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What does a winterizaion package usually include? The RV I have now just has valves you can turn but still have to do a lot manually to completely winterize. Winterizing is a must for me every time I travel back to Park City Ut and park it for even one night. It would be nice to have an extremely simple system for quick winterizing and de winterizing. Especially as a solo, Female traveler.
FEmale newbie RVer traveling the west. Plan on traveling to Tennis Tournaments and fun runs as way to keep in shape while enjoying the majesty that is the west.. Would love to meet others for camping "meetups" Let me know!
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ASPENMAN
New Mexico
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Joined: 10/23/2011
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I got the winter package on my 2012 NEXUS 31' Class C which is being built as I write and you read. :>) My package had nothing to do with "winterizing" but included heated tanks, sprayed foam insulation - extra insulation in roof and floor. We don't plan on any winter travel - we did not get insulated windows as the cost IMHO outweighed their value. The wall, ceiling and floor R values exceed the standard non-winter insulation and should help with the warm temps we plan on being in.
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WyoTraveler
Powell, WY
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Joined: 11/22/2011
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I think you are referring to an easy method to winterize the system so the unit won't freeze in extreme temps. Those are thoughts I had about my TT also since I live in Wyoming. I plan to use an air hose. You have to make sure the pressure doesn't go over 45 or 50 psi or it can blow out your pipes and fittings. I am going to buy a small air compressor and accurate pressure gauge so I can remove the water from the lines easily. You would still need to drain the water heater, fresh, grey and black water tanks. Turn on your fausets and connect the air hose to the water inlet.
2012 Jay Flight 19RD TT/W thermal package
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hoc2000
Greensboro, NC, USA
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Joined: 03/21/2004
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Hi:
The winterizing packzge I have installed is a two way valve between the water pump and fresh water tank. A Tygon tubing is installed on the valve and the other end goes to a bottle of antifreeze. I then turn the pump om and open each faucet (one by one) until only antifreeze comes out I usually use two gallons of anti freeze. Since the antifreeze is going into gray and black water tanks. Also, since it goes thru the pump I winterizing it. I still have to drain all tanks before and by pass the hot water tank so I don't need six gallons of anti freeze. It takes me about thirty minutes to do and is a one man operation. Hope this helps.
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Stennis
Starkville, Mississippi
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Joined: 04/28/2003
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I live in a far more moderate climate but I have never winterized - even when I did not have a building. I drained the holding tanks well and put a little antifreeze just to protect the valves (sometimes I just left valves open). I then opened all cabinet doors (including raising the bed if water tank under there) and put a small electric header inside to keep interior well above freezing. I do not recall but I suppose the water heater needs to be drained but I think with the cabinet doors open, it gets more heat from inside than cold from outside (heater could even be directed in that direction). One would just want to be sure that all safety clearances for the heater were observed.
Holding tanks empty and valves open or closed with a little antifreeze, all interior doors and cabinets open, and with heat inside, I think you will make it.
That said, I would want to know if someone who has REAL winters has done this without problems. We do not have very many hard freezes and seldom see zero.
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tatest
Oklahoma Green Country
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Joined: 05/14/2005
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On my Winnebago the factory winterization package includes a valve at the water pump to draw from a tube instead of the fresh water tank, and a bypass valve for the water heater.
As standard equipment (not part of the winterization package) I have a drain valve for the fresh water tank, three low point drains, a drain plug for the water heater and a winter bypass piece for the water filter. There are also two waste tanks to deal with, and four traps and a toilet bowl to take care of. Not to mention removing any freezable goods.
I winterize/dewinterize several times a season for winter use of the RV. Yes, it is a bit of work, 30-45 minutes extra going into, coming out of storage.
You won't get it down to turn a valve or two, push a button, not if you are going to do everything that needs to be done to keep the plumbing from freezing and keep something you've stored from bursting or going bad because it froze.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B
2001 Ranger Edge
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