hilandfrog
Montana
Senior Member
Joined: 09/23/2006
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Not really much going on but tedious labor on replacing stuffs that need to be replaced.
More roof panels going away and the rotted vent is history.
This is the first structural and floor replacement, I ended up returning the 5/8th's and going w/ 3/4 to match existing.
There was a long ripped 2x4 that goes over the tin and behind the 2x2.
Here is the piece I made an attempt at
New piece of floor and side wall, Using sub floor liquid nails and panel adhesive for the luan
new piece of floor and rear wall
Same thing, outside view
I copied the wood pattern as it was laid out but the factory... were I designing it, I would have stacked the 2x2 vs putting them next to one another and stapling them together....???
I'm using Glue and 1/4"crown 18ga 1" staples to affix the luan to the 1x2 and 2x2's.
Next will be the passenger side and then a few lessor spots of replaced floor.
Looks like I have a few days of chores to do so I may have to start up again on Thurs ry
Repo
05 Tundra 4x4
1976' SIX PAC, cut to size and function.
$800 1977' Road Ranger, not yet road worthy (AUG '11')
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hilandfrog
Montana
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Joined: 09/23/2006
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This is what the passenger side looks like under the particle board.
Why in the world particle board, is it better w/ water or something??
From the where I'm point to the rear is about 7 feet, it is all rotten wood, this particular 2x2 is resting on the frame so replacing it seem key.
Added a 2x4 vs 2x2 as rear outside wall support, need to remember to not make it heaver but stronger. Lots of the smaller pieces are easier to replace than leaving there and just removing the long one.
Some of the bottom aluminum had worn through, it was patched w/ roofing flashing and flashing calk, I patched as holes appeared.
New supports in rear pass side
This is a square hole cut in the bottom alum and the top side of the gray tank.
It seems EVERY pipe leading to a tank had mouse nest in them and it appears to me this is yet another way the little buggers can gain access to out RV's, over the top of the tanks into the plumbing chases and they're home free
The door was moved from directly behind the wheel wells to centered between the wheel wells and the front of the TT.
This 2x2 is still meaty but the span between suports is 6" past both sides of the door.
I'm no longer dropping the door 8" either.
New door 2x2 glued and screwed to a 2x4
I'm ordering a few windows and hatches, may need some location advice for things that burn gas or smell bad
Poor drawing but my concept of the floor plan til it changes.
The front is pretty bleek right now as I think it will just be a table and some chairs/ perhaps putting the benches back in???
Bring it on I could use the help.
Repo
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Onesweetvan
West Coast
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Joined: 12/08/2010
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Hey Bobsyouruncle, I looked at your web site, did you ever finish that trailer reno? It ends all wrapped in Tyvek around 2006. What happened next?
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hilandfrog
Montana
Senior Member
Joined: 09/23/2006
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So I have been getting a few things done on "diddems" as of late and thought I'd post a few pics.
Ended up replacing 85% of the floor, had I to do it over... would just start all new and not even attempt to salvage "sections"
Placed 3/4" play over frame work and then topped off w/ 3/8" to tie in all the new and old pieces,of course I didn't get a pic of that, but here is the floor w/ a $73 scrap piece
Kind of a funny pattern and color, but it has some texture so I'm hoping for a LITTLE bit better traction when wet
On the wheel wells I was concerned w/ tire blow out damage, lost a gray tank and part of a floor in a class C, yuck, but the bare tin looked skimpy
Covered the bare tin w/ 3/8" ply and liquid nails then put a box around it for insulation.
Here is the insulation, finished up w/ 5mm panel that are being used EVERY where.
The rear bunks are in and the bathroom framed in, the kitchen has moved to the drivers side and the water tank will be a perfect step for top bunk, as well as adding weight to the passenger side.
Still not sure about the seating opposite kitchen, may try some kind of bench w/ high bar, but the dinette seems uncomfortable??
Things are coming together nicely, found a key less entry system that needs an actuator and a nice PD charger inverter.
Lots of 12 LED lighting and a few zeon bulbs for when we have juice.
Gotta get to plumbing and electrical within 2 weeks, my wife would love the garage back.
Repo
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westend
all over
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Joined: 11/17/2011
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Hiland, I'm doing a similar project, it can be found here:http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25707172.cfm
Maybe some folks don't see it but I know that moving the layout and mechanicals is a BIG thing, congrats on taking it on and doing a good job!
You asked about the wall-to-roof joint in a previous post and, IMO, it's one of the most critical parts of the TT. You've probably found by now that the roof itself doesn't leak but any through holes and the edge is where leakage was present. What I did was remove the aluminum trim rail (and associated goop), rebuilt any rotted wall framing, used an elastomeric caulk to seal the wall edge back to the framing, used elastomeric caulk to seal the roof edge back to the framing, reattached the trim rail using the same caulk. If I had it to do over (and I might), I'd seal the roof and wall edge with the best butyl tape I could find (that may be Eternabond). I haven't had any leaks from that joint but I haven't traveled with my trailer, either.
Looking forward to see what your "diddums" looks like when it's done. I bet it will be very nice.
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rovobay
Damascus, Oregon (Portland Suburb)
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Joined: 01/30/2012
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Great work. very interesting to see the guts of a trailer. I just joined and was hoping to learn a lot about how they work. I am on a budget and always fix things myself so this was a great tool to me. Good luck on the rest and can't wait for updates
1999 Cameo by Carriage 26FLS bought in February 2012 (our first trailer)
TV is a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4X4 Crew Cab Short Bed with a 6.6l Duramax and Allison Transmission
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hilandfrog
Montana
Senior Member
Joined: 09/23/2006
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Seems things move so much slower than I would like...
Course I can not use the excuse that it is cold out, SUCH a mild winter thus far.
I have SOME round windows and a few of the old square ones...
Here is the ski hatch under the rear bunks.
These gaps were filled in
More or less finished the kitchen cabinets, still need to do a few things.
Found an under mount sink for the kitchen, it's a double so one side needs to be cut off, it's 8" deep and can actually handle a pan or plate for washing.
we're using 3/8" ply topped w/ 3/4" X 24" X 68" laminated pine for counter top, may do just bees wax or go urethane Don't know.
The above oven and hood cabinet may turn into a microwave cubie, don't know that we will have power enough of the time to dedicate such space to one?????
Need to finish the fixing the fan, clean strip and paint the hood, but Its fits well and it will have an outside and inside latching cover.
Boxing out step/ fresh water tank area, strapping the thing down will be fun.
This 20 x 20 area will be a closet and will be above fresh water pumps and filters
Bathroom has a few funny things going on.
First the toilet is 14 1/2" ground to seat, So we added 3 1/2" box for the toilet but need to have slope for the 1 1/2" gray water coming in from 2 sinks plus vent, and don't forget the bi-pass so the gray can be dispersed through a garden hose when such occasions present themselves.
The small tank is a separate tank for just the toilet, winter camping w/ RV anti freeze.
Here's the right half of the bathroom.
May be going w/ a small 18 x 8 opening window vs a vent in the bathroom as the roof vents proximity to the Septic vent??
Found the bar sink for $15 at our local habitat for humanity, Re-store.
Still have a few over head cabinets to make and still haven't figured out the comfortable seating across from the kitchen for eating, playing cards, watching movies....
Taking any and all suggestions
Repo
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Tvov
CT
Senior Member
Joined: 07/19/2003
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hilandfrog wrote:
The above oven and hood cabinet may turn into a microwave cubie, don't know that we will have power enough of the time to dedicate such space to one?????
I joked about the microwave in our TT when we first bought it, but we use it a lot. We usually have access to shore power more often than I would have thought.
_________________________________________________________
2008 F-250 CrewCab 5.4L,
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor
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Wills250psd
on the road
Senior Member
Joined: 08/13/2011
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Let me tell you from my point of view I am a carpenter, contractor,jack of most trades and master of none you are doing a FINE JOB you should be PROUD it is not often people follow thru with a massive project (that they are not getting paid for) but you will be paid with satisfaction. keep up the good work!!! Will
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pasusan
PA
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Joined: 05/13/2009
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hilandfrog wrote:
The above oven and hood cabinet may turn into a microwave cubie, don't know that we will have power enough of the time to dedicate such space to one?????
One suggestion is to get a small microwave and store it someplace so that you can pull it out and use it if the need arises. That's what we did for many years with our 18' Scotty. That was a trailer that was really set up for boondocking... We stored the MW under one of the seats of the dinette and just pulled it out on the rare occasion that we were hooked to electric and wanted to make popcorn in it.
In fact we removed the large MW from our current unit and put the small one in place of it just to leave extra shelf room. Here's a pic:
Just wanted to add that I too think you're doing a great job and I thank you for sharing your project with us!
Trip Pics
Our nest isn't empty - it's half full. 
Susan & Ben ~
84 Bronco & 90 Award Classic 23 joined with a Hensley Cub
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