Brent and Gina
Arkansas
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Wow, didn't even know this had been revived with a few more posts. I'm glad. I'm going to try the "subscription" function. Is there another method to track responses to a topic?
Anyway, jass, we don't have any set anything and that includes dates. We retire in 6 months and we'll go from there I guess. We have a tentative plan for the Atlantic Provinces and New England late summer this year. Afterwards, who knows!
Fanrgs, I modified the trip some based on forum members. Suggestions? Here's the last iteration as totally just a guideline:
Chilliwack, BC
Canyon Hot Springs, BC
Lake Louise, AB
Jasper, AB
Dawson Creek, BC
Fort Nelson, BC
Liard Hot Springs, BC
Watson Lake, YT
Teslin, YT
Whitehorse, YT
Skagway, AK
Haines, AK
Dawson City, YT
**Inuvik (possible)
**Eagle (possible)
Chicken, AK
Tok, AK
Fairbanks, AK
Denali National Park, AK
Anchorage, AK
**Coldfoot to Prudhoe Bay, AK (possible)
Seward, AK
Kenai, AK
Homer, AK
Sterling, AK
Whittier, AK
Palmer, AK
Valdez, AK
Tok, AK
Kluane Lake, Destruction Bay, YT
Teslin, YT
Watson Lake, BC
Dease Lake, BC
Iskut, BC
Stewart/Hyder, AK
Hazelton, BC
Fort Telkwa, BC
Prince George, BC
Jasper, AB
Banff, AB
Calgary, AB
Lethbridge, AB
Great Falls, MT
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Kidoo
Chicoutimi, Québec, Canada
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fanrgs wrote:Brent and Gina wrote:
24. Kluane Lake, Destruction Bay, YT
25. Haines, AK
26. Skagway, AK
27. Teslin, YT
28. Watson Lake, YT
During this part of your trip, I would highly recommend leaving your RVs in Haines or Skagway and taking the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry to, at least, Juneau and Sitka. You can get a cabin, travel in a "coach" seat, or bring a backpack tent and sleep in your sleeping bag on deck--it is strictly up to you (and your budget). You can eat in the cafeteria or bring your own food. I checked the 2012 rates and the adult fare from Haines to Sitka is $66 one-way, a 2-bed stateroom starts at $63, and the deck tent space and "coach" seats are free with the adult fare. If you are taking the ferry from Haines to Skagway, you may be able to work out an even better group/package rate on a Sitka-Juneau trip round trip.
I have covered most of Alaska by small plane, helicopter, boat, ferry, car, and train since first working there in 1972--Juneau to Nome; Big Delta to Shemya Island at the western end of the Aleutians; Kodiak Island to Bettles. The only region I haven't seen is the North Slope. And, next to the view of Mt. McKinley from Talkeetna on a perfectly clear morning, my favorite views in Alaska are in Sitka (please keep in mind that I live in Colorado so mountains are everyday views, seacoasts are not).
You don't need an RV in Sitka--a van meets every ferry to take you into town. Once there, you can walk anywhere you want to go. Sitka was the Russian capital of Alaska, so there are enough museums to satisfy any history buff. And, for photographers, there are photo ops galore. From the volcanic cone in the harbor entrance to the hundreds of bald eagles flying overhead, from the Russian capital/church buildings to the totem pole park, Sitka's scenery and wildlife are absolutely spectacular. And once the cruise ship passengers leave in the late afternoon, you'll have the town and its gorgeous sunsets all to yourself!
Even the ferry trip getting there through Peril Strait is fantastic! That 408-foot ferry takes curves at speeds that cause it to literally fishtail and it passes fishing trawlers like they are standing still. You would never experience the strait on an Alaska cruise since the Coast Guard does not allow cruise ships to use it. For those who love speed, it is just one more thrill of taking this ferry trip (try the fantail one direction and the bow the other direction)!
Finally, Juneau is the capital of the state, so is interesting for that reason, for its mining history, and for its "city" glacier (we walked to Mendenhall Glacier from a bus stop!). But it can also be the jumping off point for a day- or two-day small boat tour of Glacier Bay National Park. There is a lodge and a campground at Glacier Bay, but it is not worth taking an RV there either.
So consider a ferry trip sans RV to see some of the most beautiful parts of Alaska that are inaccessible by road!
Sitka looks like a very nice place to see. I think I will get this into my trip. I have looked at a few picture and it seems to be beautiful. What is the thing about camping on the boat??
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jmcarp
Colorado
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fanrgs wrote:
...I would highly recommend leaving your RVs in Haines or Skagway and taking the Alaska Marine Highway Ferry to, at least, Juneau and Sitka...
If you don't want to go all the way to Sitka, there is a fast catamaran from Skagway and Haines to Juneau and back in a day. You can, of course, stay overnight or longer in Juneau if you wish. If you do a day trip, it gets you to Juneau in time for lunch, and includes a tour up to the Mendenhall Glacier. The catamaran cruises at 28 knots, and stops frequently for whale and wildlife sightings, something the ferry cannot do. See http://alaskafjordlines.com/ for info.
I'm not knocking the ferry in any way, as it's worthy of a trip in itself, especially if you do the entire Inside Passage. The catamaran just offers an alternative to get you to Juneau and gives a taste of what the Inside Passage is like. Plus, it runs every day -- it's sometimes hard to work with the ferry schedule for a short jaunt.
Jim
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joe b.
Florida
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The fast ferry MV Fairweather, that runs from Skagway to Juneau and back is part of the Alaska Ferry System. AMHS books it just like any other ferry so far as I know. The Fairweather is listed at cruising at 38 knots, one of the faster boats in the area. There are a couple of private owned that also operate in the Skagway, Haines and Juneau area. The one operated by the local Regional Native Corp is a passenger ferry only. The Fairweather will take vehicles as well as passengers.
joe b.
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fanrgs
Mile High City
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Kidoo wrote:
Sitka looks like a very nice place to see. I think I will get this into my trip. I have looked at a few picture and it seems to be beautiful. What is the thing about camping on the boat??
See this link on the AMHS web site for details on ferry "lodging" and food:
http://www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/vessel_amenities.shtml
During the high season, there is considerable competition for sleeping space on deck, so try to board as early as possible. Lots of backpackers choose this option, so you won't get lonely!
Joe is right about the Fairweather if you just want to go to Juneau for a day or two. If nothing else, the ferries give you a taste of travel in the Inside Passage without the expense of a cruise ship. And a few days out of your RV after weeks of travel and letting someone else "do the driving" never hurts. Finally, it can add considerably to the "Alaska experience" and your future memories of the trip. Remember, the Alaska Panhandle is larger than most states in the eastern 1/2 of the Lower 48 and Haines, Skagway, and Hyder are the only places in SE Alaska you can drive to!
PS--I thought of an analogy for the size of SE Alaska that might help some people get a feel for how immense it really is:
1) Look at a map of the states in the eastern US.
2) Cut out the states of Tennessee and North Carolina from that map (keep them joined along their common border).
3) Rotate the two states clockwise 45 degrees with Memphis at the top and Wilmington at the bottom.
4) Look at the bottom of the map--Raleigh would represent Prince Rupert and the Fayettevile-Wilmington area would be Queen Charlotte Island.
5) Winston-Salem would be on the Alaska-Canada border south of Ketchikan.
6) Knoxville would be in the vicinity of Petersburg and Nashville would be in the Lynn Canal midway between Juneau and Skagway.
7) Memphis would be in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, just about where the Alaska-Canada border turns due north.
8) And I-40 would be the Inside Passage between Prince Rupert and Skagway.
Aren't maps fun! LOL!
* This post was
edited 01/28/12 07:16pm by fanrgs *
Steve
2011 Nissan Frontier SV King Cab 4x4 (red)
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fanrgs
Mile High City
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Brent and Gina wrote:Fanrgs, I modified the trip some based on forum members. Suggestions? Here's the last iteration as totally just a guideline:
Whitehorse, YT
Skagway, AK
Haines, AK
Dawson City, YT
Prince George, BC
Jasper, AB
Banff, AB
Calgary, AB
Lethbridge, AB
Great Falls, MT
You can still do the Sitka-Juneau ferry trip that I suggested--mid-June to early July should be a great time for it. However, if those who want to add the ferry are taking their RVs with them, they need to get reservations as early as possible (like. as soon as AMHS starts taking 2013 reservations!). If you want a cabin, you should also book at least 6 months in advance. If you going as "deck cargo" and backpacking or sleeping in an indoor observation deck seat at night, there is not much need for advance reservations.
See my previous post for the type of weather and wildlife we encountered in the middle of September in Banff and Jasper, if that is the schedule you end up with. It is absolutely gorgeous at that time of the year, especially with a little fresh snow on the peaks and the aspen changing to yellow/gold/orange!
Steve
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fanrgs
Mile High City
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Brent and Gina wrote:Whitehorse, YT
Skagway, AK
Haines, AK
Dawson City, YT
**Inuvik (possible)
**Eagle (possible)
Chicken, AK
Tok, AK
Fairbanks, AK
Denali National Park, AK
Anchorage, AK
**Coldfoot to Prudhoe Bay, AK (possible)
Seward, AK
That Haines to Dawson City part seems to go backwards. Are you going through Whitehorse twice? I realize that it is just a "possible," but it may be early in the summer to be heading up to Inuvik. Wouldn't Coldfoot to Prudhoe Bay be after Fairbanks and before Denali or are people flying up there from Anchorage? Not criticism, just questions--the trip looks fantastic!
Joe B. on this thread used to be mayor of Nenana, so you might want to get his input on the Fairbanks to Anchorage portion of the trip (or anywhere else since he lived in several places in Alaska and flew his own planes all over the state!)
PS--Sorry for the multiple posts last night. I kept having additional thoughts about the schedule and started multiple posts instead of just editing my previous ones. I really wasn't trying to build up my number of posts--just too much stream of consciousness going on!
Steve
* This post was
edited 01/28/12 07:21pm by fanrgs *
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joe b.
Florida
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I tend to be somewhat of a "planner", just part of the bureaucrat in me I guess. Before we leave for Alaska, I will map out the planned route and set up a calendar, to reflect the things we want to do, that are time oriented. If fishing the mid July red salmon run on the Kenai is important to us, then as we get north, our travels will take that into consideration. A ferry reservation will effect our calendar.
We have "hubs" where we make "go, no go" decisions, route changes, etc. These are places like Jasper-Banff-Yoho NPs, Whitehorse, Fairbanks, Wasilla-Palmer, Valdez, the Kenai Peninsula, etc. From our generally planned route, we will decide what we want to do on the way up and what to do on the return trip. If we are going to pass through Whitehorse both directions, we will plan what to do on leg of the trip. We always enjoy the Frantic Follies vaudeville show in Whitehorse, so we will decide if we want to do it on the way up or back. Whitehorse is one of the places where most people may pass through there twice, up and back, unless they are going to catch the ferry out of Haines, southbound. Lots of good day trips in the Whitehorse area, to Skagway, Atlin, etc. I usually plan on about 3 days each direction. We don't go to all the places each trip, as we will hit Dawson City every 3rd or 4th trip on the average. The same with Skagway and Haines. Over the, almost 50 years of driving to/from Alaska, I have only gone down to Atlin 3 times, that I remember. A place I really enjoy, just don't take the time to go there that often.
On the way up, when we get to Whitehorse, during the time we are there, we will decide whether or not to take the North Klondike Hwy to Dawson Town and on across the Top of the World Hwy or continue on up the Alaska Hwy to Alaska. Will try to get a good weather forecast for the area, check the road reports, what is going on in Dawson, i.e. festivals, etc. Then we will pick one of the routes. Dawson is one of the most "historic" places you can visit, in the north country. Some people will continue on over the Top Hwy to Alaska and some will return to Whitehorse to continue up the Alaska Hwy. Dawson is well worth a visit either way, IMHO.
Then we will go through the same general scenario, at the first "major" stop in Alaska, be it Fairbanks or Valdez. Our calendar is constantly being changed and updated as we travel along. What we want to do in an area, will determine how long we stay there. As RVers travel along the roads, they will pick up ideas from other RVers, a great friendly bunch for the most part. Some tendencies to exaggerate perhaps a bit, at times. LOL If a traveler doesn't like boats, then they probably should avoid all the boat tours, no matter how fabulous someone claims them to be.
I try to keep telling people, there is no right or wrong way to make a trip to the North Country. It is "your" trip and you have to make it to fit your needs. Most of our trips, seem that we have a "theme." It may be fishing, other trips I won't fish a single time. Our last 4 trips have seemed to be tied more toward photography than the earlier ones. One trip, I tried to focus my photography on "road houses" but in addition to them, I got a collection of "out houses" as well. In 2009, my wife and I decided to do all the "touristy" stuff, we had either, never done or hadn't done in many years. It was fun to do. It was fun being with others, that were seeing sights for the first time. After living in Alaska for over 25 years and traveling in the state, it can become somewhat humdrum, common, to be expected. The same as I love going to Disney with my young grandsons, to get a re-grip on the "wow factor" as seen through their reactions.
Northern Canada and Alaska, really do have a "wow" factor, when you allow it to happen, and I sometimes forget that and have to remind myself.
Don't over think or plan a trip, as it is just a series of 300 to 500 mile days for most, one day after the other, more than most RVers have ever done sequentially on a trip. Stay flexible and remember you are on vacation. Make reservations where needed and if it makes you more comfortable, when you know where you will be time specific. After you have seen your "hundredth" beautiful mountain, river or lake, seeing a hundred more, may not be as high on your priority list as you first imagined. LOL On a trip to Yellowstone one time, our then 11 year old daughter, announced to my wife and me, "if I have to look at one more geyser today, I promise you I will throw up." So be flexible and willing to change your plans, as your trip evolves. For those that do "travel" with others, make sure you still keep the trip doing what you want to do, even if it means leaving the group at times or permanently.
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Kidoo
Chicoutimi, Québec, Canada
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Go no-go route change decision. Me and the wife tend to do the same and I am on the currious side, I tend to follow small side road to see what's on the other side of that hill or that curve. I travel sometimes with relatives and what we do is that we set up a destination for the end of the day or for the end of few days, than do on our own up to the destination. We meet at night and chit chat on Our trip, but foremost, it is everyone his own trip. This is the only way I could travel with someone else, your own speed, your own last minute stops, but it is nice to meet someone you know up along the trip.
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