AstroRig57
near Tehachapi, CA
Senior Member
Joined: 01/15/2009
View Profile
|
Since I am the one placing the leveling blocks, and I have to get out of the rig to do it, I see no sense in having mounted levels somewhere that I can "see from the cab".
I use a bullseye type surface level, just like this one.
I place it in the freezer since the refrigerator is what I am most trying to level anyway. Neither the floor or countertops are fully level with the fridge.
Over time, I have learned how much elevation it takes on each wheel to make up for how much the "bubble is off" on the level. I do it in one shot...always.
I have two "8 pack" sets of Ramble Leveling Blocks, like these....
Plus two Ramble Lock N Stops which also add another course of blocks. The Lock N Stops were a great addition as I no longer need someone to tell me when I am centered on the blocks.
This is not necessarily an endorsement of Ramble...it's just that the first set I ever bought was Ramble and I've just followed through to ensure they were all compatible.
Should I need more leveling, I also have a few 2 x 8's in the rig, but these are mostly for placing under the Stabilizer Jacks, and I have never found that I need them. (for leveling).
* This post was
edited 07/22/10 01:39pm by AstroRig57 *
2005 31' Coachmen Freelander 3150SS, Stargazer II - Mobile Astronomy Unit
Do you remember when the sky was dark, and the stars were bright?
The International Dark-Sky Association
American by birth...Scottish by the Grace Of God.
|
tenbear
Northern Vermont, USA
Senior Member
Joined: 08/11/2004
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
AstroRig57 wrote:Since I am the one placing the leveling blocks, and I have to get out of the rig to do it, I see no sense in having mounted levels somewhere that I can "see from the cab".
Much of the time I don't need leveling blocks. Without the levels in the cab I wouldn't know that. If I do need to level, the levels in the cab tell me how much and where I have to raise the corners. No need for outside levels.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory
|
mikhen
oley, pa
Senior Member
Joined: 05/29/2006
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
 Offline
|
If you go 3 boards high, how do you keep the top board from sliding while driving up on it?
2005 Sunseeker 3100 QBS
camping Pa...win free camping
|
Dusty R
Charlotte Michigan 48813
Senior Member
Joined: 04/05/2003
View Profile
Offline
|
mikhen wrote:If you go 3 boards high, how do you keep the top board from sliding while driving up on it?
I drilled holes in my boards and add wooden pegs in the holes when needed.
Dusty
|
pauldub
North of Seattle
Senior Member
Joined: 11/01/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
mikhen wrote:If you go 3 boards high, how do you keep the top board from sliding while driving up on it?
For the rears it isn't a problem because the wheels are the drive wheels. In front, flip the whole stack upside down and wedge it between the tire and ground then drive up on it. Looks funny but works well. You can also hit them with a belt sander across the grain to give them a little more friction.
|
|
|
Skid Row Joe
Texas and on-the-road
Senior Member
Joined: 04/26/2006
View Profile
|
ron.dittmer wrote:Walmarts automotive departments have a small RV specific section. Most Walmarts sell little stick-on levels called Hoppy Levels. They come in packages of two, sold for a few dollors. These are Hoppy Levels. 
The levels by the driver are really nice to have because quite often, you can manuever the RV in and out of dips on campsites to level it, avoiding the need to use blocks. What I have at my driver's cockpit.
I also carry two 2"X8"s. 
“I want to die in my sleep like my Grandfather... Not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his car.”
|
tenbear
Northern Vermont, USA
Senior Member
Joined: 08/11/2004
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
mikhen wrote:If you go 3 boards high, how do you keep the top board from sliding while driving up on it?
I've never had any trouble with the third board sliding off.
|
AstroRig57
near Tehachapi, CA
Senior Member
Joined: 01/15/2009
View Profile
|
tenbear wrote:AstroRig57 wrote:Since I am the one placing the leveling blocks, and I have to get out of the rig to do it, I see no sense in having mounted levels somewhere that I can "see from the cab".
Much of the time I don't need leveling blocks. Without the levels in the cab I wouldn't know that. If I do need to level, the levels in the cab tell me how much and where I have to raise the corners. No need for outside levels.
Why didn't I think of that? I must be the single most dense guy around. I'm so inefficient. I could probably save what...15 seconds?
It's such a CHORE to park the rig, get up out of the driver's seat, and walk the three steps to the freezer to check if I'm level. As I said, I can tell with one glance at the little bullseye level how much I need to adjust any corner.
If not level, proceed outside to set up the leveling blocks. If level, shut the rig down, set the parking brake, and get on with setting up camp.
Sigh!!!
Of course, by then I suppose the truly efficient campers have already sat down for a drink.
|
shherry
de
New Member
Joined: 07/21/2010
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Thank you so much everyone.
So, if I am in a park on a nice flat surface, do I even need to level? And if so, what do you think is least expensive way to stabilize the tires. I assume you HAVE to do that, correct?
Sorry, as you can tell, I am a SERIOUS newbie but am trying to learn all I can before taking this thing out on the road. My husband just kind of foisted this thing upon us (got a good deal) and we are trying to figure everything out ourselves. The person we go it from barely used it and didn't tell us much.
THANK YOU! I LOVE this site!
|
ron.dittmer
Northern Illinois
Senior Member
Joined: 02/26/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
When on level ground, just put the transmission in park, set the parking brake, and you are done.
When using blocks, I do just the same, but I do use the wheel chock feature in the lynx blocks seen here. A set of 10 blocks in a blue bag is only $30 on-line. 2 sets plus 2 wheel chocks will cost around $100 and you'll have everything you need. They are light weight and store much nicer than heavy, dirty, slippery, bulky boards. If I were leveling the RV for more than a week at a time, I would consider the lynx caps which make the parking surface flat. This to be easier on the tires.
 
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
|
|
|
