Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Leveling questions PLEASE!
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 > Leveling questions PLEASE!

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shherry

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Posted: 07/21/10 07:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello all,

Newbie here! Can anyone explain this whole leveling thing? We just got an Rv (Midas 22 ft Class C I believe) and am unsure about how to level it or stabilize it when going to the RV park.

I have read some people use 2x8 etc ... Can someone explain that to me ... how many would I use, how do I do it exactly, etc?!

Thank you!!!

larry cad

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Posted: 07/21/10 07:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are several reasons why you want to level your RV. First is so you don't roll out of bed at night. Second is because your RV frig works much better when the RV is level. Third is so the eggs in the fry pan on the stove don't spill over the side of the pan.

Seriously, the RV is just so much more comfortable when it is level.

Now, what is "level"? Many use an actual level to determine if the RV is level. You can place it on the floor, front to back, or side to side, or on the counter top, or on the stove. When the RV is level, you can usually tell because your cupboard doors and shower door don't swing open unexpectedly.

In order to level, many folks use home made equipment, or buy something like this:



By stacking the blocks, and then driving the tires up on them, you can get close to level, both front to back, and side to side.


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tatest

Oklahoma Green Country

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Posted: 07/21/10 07:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For leveling, I use a combination of 3/4" exterior plywood boards and plastic stacking blocks (1-1/2" first block, 1" each additional block) under the tires.

How I use them, I put them ahead of the tire that needs to be higher and drive up on them, same way blocks are used to level trailers.

How many? As many as needed to get level. This is often zero, because most pads where I park are pretty close to level, and I can often get level by moving around a little bit.

I don't try to stabilize my C. C's are pretty heavy, relative to the weight of people moving around inside them.

People who find the amount of movement uncomfortable will install stabilizing jacks, similar to those on many trailers, but built more heavily.


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tenbear

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Posted: 07/21/10 08:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use 2 x 8 lumber cut in various lengths and angled on the ends so I can stack them and drive up on them. I have stick on levels, from Walmart, where I can see them from the drivers seat so I can see how level I am. The rear dual wheels require 2 boards side by side.

You don't have to get it exactly level, usually within a couple of inches is good enough.


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4x4van

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Posted: 07/21/10 09:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tenbear wrote:

I use 2 x 8 lumber cut in various lengths and angled on the ends so I can stack them and drive up on them. I have stick on levels, from Walmart, where I can see them from the drivers seat so I can see how level I am. The rear dual wheels require 2 boards side by side.

You don't have to get it exactly level, usually within a couple of inches is good enough.


I also use 2x8 lumber, cut at a 45 degree angle on one end. I have attached (nailed) 3 layers together, bottom one 24" long, next one 18", top one 12". The straight-cut ends are lined up. I have 3 "Ramps" set up like this. I put them in front of the wheels on whichever corner(s) are low, and then slowly drive up onto them, watching the bubble levels that I have attached in view (one on the dash in front of me for left/right, the second on the door next to me for front/back).

With the "ramps", I can continue up to 3 levels (about 5") till my bubble levels look good and then set the brake. If one corner has to go up more than another, I put that ramp against the wheel but space the second (or third) 6" or so away from the wheel, so that the corner that needs most improvement starts up the ramp before the other(s).

Takes only a few minutes.


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hohenwald48

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Posted: 07/22/10 09:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use 3/4 inch treated plywood cut to a size large enough to support both duals. I carry 8 of these and 8 2x6 cut 18" long. With that combination I am able to get the right height to get level in all lbut the worst sites. I always support all tires completely.

I've seen a lot of levelling jobs with tires hanging off the boards and support only under one of the duals. Just looks like it would eventually lead to some tire problems to me.


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ron.dittmer

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Posted: 07/22/10 09:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Walmarts automotive departments have a small RV specific section. Most Walmarts sell little stick-on levels called Hoppy Levels. They come in packages of two, sold for a few dollors. These are Hoppy Levels.

You will need to park your motor home on a level surface. Use a good quality level on the floor of your motor home to assure it is level front-to-back, and side-to-side. Then go outside and stick on one level near one rear tire, and the other in the back. Be sure the bubble is dead center.

I bought 3 packages of Hoppy Levels. For the sake of convenience, I stuck one level just behind each rear wheel, one in back dead center, and two by the driver inside (one front-to-back, one side-to-side) The levels by the driver are really nice to have because quite often, you can manuever the RV in and out of dips on campsites to level it, avoiding the need to use blocks. The levels by the wheels are nice because you can see how many blocks to add based on the level reading.

I use those orange Lynx blocks in the blue bag, shown higher up in this post. One block high per mark on the level, keeps it very simple.

If you click on the link above my signature picture and blow up a side and rear view, you will see the Hoppy Levels on my motor home. They are inconspicuous, not gaudy at all.


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mavapa

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Posted: 07/22/10 09:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tire makers (Michelin specifically) warn that the entire contact patch of the tire should be supported. That means that any part of the tire that would normally be touching pavement should be supported by whatever you use to raise it off the ground.

ron.dittmer

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Posted: 07/22/10 09:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mavapa wrote:

Tire makers (Michelin specifically) warn that the entire contact patch of the tire should be supported. That means that any part of the tire that would normally be touching pavement should be supported by whatever you use to raise it off the ground.
Good advise. But in the case of the original poster, a 22' RV with "E" rated tires could be more forgiving than the big heavier rigs.

Dusty R

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Posted: 07/22/10 09:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I first leveled our rig then glued a cat eye/round level on the dog house near the driver's seat. Many times one can get their rig level just by moving a little ways on your lot. It's a lot easier when you can see a level from the driver's seat.

Dusty

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