Chuck_S
Broadview Hts, OH, USA
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Joined: 03/15/2002
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AC and heat in canvas walled campers have to work hard to cool the interiors and getting cool air (or heat) into the tent ends, at the very ends of the trailer, is a challenge for any AC unit or furnace. The ducted air in our Roo only has a single ceiling outlet at the rear bed because of the hallway do little AC gets back there. Closing mid-trailer vents doesn't do much more than limit the total amount of AC, there's only so much air that can be pushed out of the open vents.
Our popup had a Blast-from-the-Center AC unit with motorized louvers. We needed blankets some 90° nights on the Gulf Coast. Your unit may have movable louvers you can play with to get the right angle to push more air into the bed area.
-- Chuck
'06 Roo 23SS behind '07 Expedition out of Cleveland
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dadmomh
Jackson, TN
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Joined: 01/21/2007
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Ditto on the Gizmos, using the bunk-end fans and adding an oscillating fan sitting on the counter or table. You mentioned "even with the curtains open" - by closing the curtains you are effectively blocking air, even with the mesh area at the top. That will just add to your problem. Also, agree with Chuck_S on the back bunk. We've only slept there once, since it is hard for Sam to get up and down from the bed, lol, but it's always hotter or colder that the front bunk. Hope some of these suggestions will help, but air circulation is crucial.
2007 ROO 23SS
2003 Ford F-150 with Equalizer and Prodigy
6 doggies - all rescues or strays
Sam, you were the best!
Foxy is our new camping buddy
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TS21sso
North Central Texas
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Joined: 07/21/2008
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Our Travelstar has the Blast from the Center AC. In the evenings we do as Chuck-S suggested, I adjust the louvers to send air between the pantry and bathroom into the rear bunk. Front bunk opening is width of HTT and no problem keeping cool. In the a.m. we close the curtains and I readjust the louvers to direct air into opening above the bathroom door. Takes all of 5 seconds and makes a big difference in each area.
If you camp in hot temps as we normally do, we found that during the day, if we tuck the bottom of the curtains under the sleeping bag and put a couple of cloths pins to seal off where curtains come together, seals off the front bunk area and keeps heat in bunkend. We have PUGs, but every little bit helps.
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ilovecamping
IL
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Joined: 01/16/2005
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This is our first trip out with our new 23ss and we are finding some issues with cooling the back bunk. We have the bunk fans but the back one hangs behind the bathroom wall so doesn't help like it should. DH has it tied up(temporary solution)so it will cool better and we have also put a small fan on the cabinet to push in more air. We have adjusted the vents also and feel it is getting better but it is just new to us.
Donna & Tom
2000 Suburban LT 1500
2011 Shamrock 23ss
2 DD's-grown
1DS-grown
3 DGD's
1 DGS
1 Pekineese
2008 ngts camped-63
2009 ngts camped-14
2010 ngts camped-21
2011 ngts camped-14
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Chuck_S
Broadview Hts, OH, USA
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Joined: 03/15/2002
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The back bunk in a Roo 23SS only has one AC outlet near it and the bed fan doesn't mount in such a way to blow air from the hallway into the bed. A solution is to create a mounting place for the fan on the overhead shelf but that will limit bed access. Since I'm rarely allowed to use this bed it has pretty low priority for any modifications  but a permanently fixed fan will probably work better than the portable due to size.
-- Chuck
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FrontRangeRVer
8,600 feet elevation in the Rockies
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Joined: 07/22/2005
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Tent style beds? Use a fan along with your air, and blow it toward the non-insulated tent bed area.
2006 Winnebago Voyage 35A
W-22 Chassis
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dadmomh
Jackson, TN
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Joined: 01/21/2007
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Are you setting the small portable fan on the cabinet next to the rear bunk? On the rare occasion when we've needed additional heat back there, we set the smaller ceramic heater on that cabinet - would think a fan would take care of the cooling issue. Oscillating? Might help. Walmart should have their fans on sale about now, keep a watch out. In any event, you're right - the front bunk cooling and heating is a piece of cake. The rear bunk, not so much. Takes some trials.
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ilovecamping
IL
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Yes, that is the cabinet we are putting the fan on. It seems to have helped. It is not oscillating as that one can't be located at the moment, but we have two or three of them at home.
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Camptrotters
US
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Joined: 11/23/2009
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As ChuckS stated, you're trying to cool a tent. If its real hot outside you're going to feel it in an HTT. There are some trade offs.
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camp4fun family
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Joined: 02/21/2006
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In both my HTT’s I tackled the problem of temperature control through the bunks ends by adding insulation to the bunk ends themselves.
Adding reflectix between the canvas and screen materials in the bunk-end windows and using a PUG solar cover on top help a ton. I have also added a layer of reflectix under the mattress on the bunk door. Plus a 2” piece of memory foam on top of the mattress makes things more comfortable and provided insulation.
With this, a simple Sheppard pole fan keeps both bunk-ends within a few degrees of the temperature in the middle of the trailer. I do have to turn the fan in the back bunk up to the high setting in the summer because the A/C (blast from the center type) has a narrower path around the bathroom. In the winter, the furnace does well augmented by the heat strip in the A/C unit with the low setting on both fans.
We have camped in some extreme temperatures and my insulated bunk-end has worked very well.
Good Luck!
Me - 67
DW - 71
DD - 01
DD - 04
DS - 06
04 Ford Excursion (Whomper)
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 291QBS
Equal-i-zer and P3 - Plus a whole lot more Mod's.
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