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RE: CW low-cost Solar Battery Charger worked over winter

I would LIKE to think manufacturers would state the reverse draw of their products but such is often not the case. The year before the solar battery maintainer I purchased from CW, Sun Force 1.8W, User's Manual says nothing about reverse draw. When I got to my RV storage location and measured it, the draw was of an amount that I guessed it would ruined the batteries. So I had to leave them without charging over the winter. Next year I had to replace both the coach batteries.
That's why I thought this real-world test might be of use to others.
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spotrot
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04/05/12 03:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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CW low-cost Solar Battery Charger worked over winter

My 4 batteries (2 coach, 1 chassis and 1 motorcycle) were fully charged (12.7v) after almost 5 months in low-light Boise.
In Nov, I removed the batteries, connected them in parallel, and used an externally mounted CW solar charger (I believe it was a Nature Power Solar Battery Maintainers and Trickle Chargers- 2-watt Catalog Item # 56004 $28) to keep them topped off. I mounted the panel pointing to the south and at an angle I guessed would be perpendicular to the sun's rays during winter there.
This solar charger has no regulator, so I feared its reverse current draw (during night and low light) might do more harm than good by draining the batteries and ruining them.
However, it appears to have worked well.
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spotrot
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04/05/12 10:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: electric door steps

Same with my 2008 Winnabago Itasca.
In case it helps anyone else, I found that a cheap end bushing disintegrated in the motor. This cause to armature to 'walk' too far and bind. The Chinese mfgr must have used some substandard material. I cleaned the debris out, trimmed a small piece of hard plastic to replace the junk and it's worked ever since.
I hate to reward the motor mfgr for making a crappy product by buying a second one.
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spotrot
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10/25/11 02:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do you have a very comprehensive winterizing instructions?

I use the blow-out the lines method, and only use the pink stuff for the drains. However, I unscrew the shower heads to let them drain.
I add SeaFoam (or Stabil) to the gas tank and then drive the RV a bit to mix it, and then run the Onan for 10 minutes to hopefully get some Seafoam into its carb.
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spotrot
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10/09/11 04:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TIRES

The same size Goodyears gave us fits on our 08; 4 of 6 had to be replaced when new; then rivering ate up all of them before 30k. Replaced with Made in USA Bridgestones. Alls well now.
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spotrot
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10/08/11 12:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery replacement info - NAPA 8240

If Trik-L is intended for use when connected to shore power, then the coach batteries won't run down, because they are connected to shore power.
When connected to shore power, a jumper accomplishes the same thing (but is only needed when connected to shore power for a long time without running the engine).
When I store the RV without shore power, I just disconnect the ground from the coach and the chassis batteries.
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spotrot
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09/21/11 08:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery replacement info - NAPA 8240

Curious, I did not see that on a quick look at the Trik-L web site.
Why not just connect a jumper wire from the coach plus to the chassis plus. This has worked fine on my RV, and costs almost nothing.
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spotrot
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09/20/11 10:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery replacement info - NAPA 8240

JerseyJim: Sorry if my post rubbed you the wrong way. That was not my intention and I appreciated your post and learning of the Trik-L. I did not know that a device was available that took power from coach batteries to keep the chassis battery charged. I'm sure it's good for people who have a drain on their chassis and have extra coach power to spare. However, my desire is to keep all the batteries charged not put a drain on one set for the benefit of another.
Sorry to hear of your problem with Interstate and the dealer. The NAPA clerk told me that the NAPA batteries are now coming in from Interstate, while they came from Exide a while ago. The case of my 3 year old 8240 was definately different than the new 8240 or 8302.
I was curious how a dealer determines a deep cycle battery is degraded if it's not something obvious like a bad cell. I hope I won't have to find out.
In case it is of interest to others, my Winnie/Itasca battery tray is large enough to take a pair of batteries as big as 7-1/2 x 14.
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spotrot
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09/18/11 08:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery replacement info - NAPA 8240

NAPA exchanged the Dual battery (even though the mo/yr stickers were removed)and I bought 2 of the NAPA deep cycle batteries. As stated previously, the NAPA web site stated reserve of 120 for the 8240 dual and 150 for the 8302 deep cycle but the labels on the battery listed reserve of 140 for both models. Go figure. Maybe both models are the same on the inside, too.
In any case, we don't plan much dry camping so far. And the 3 year old 8240 duals died prematurely after a few deep cycles.
Trik-L-Start steals power from the house batteries to keep the engine battery up so it sacrifices one set for the other. That's probably great if your life depended on the engine starting, but my plan now is to try to prevent/minimize deep dishcarges, disconnect the batteries when stored over a few weeks, connect a float charger when 120v is available and maybe find a solar panel. The first one I bought (a cheapie from CW) had a sizeable drain when not in the sun (didn't say that on the packinging)so I was concerned that it might actually drain the batteries more than it charged them.
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spotrot
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09/17/11 08:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Battery replacement info - NAPA 8240

Thanks for the info and advice.
My search of Autozone web site only showed one deep cycle battery, a DuraLast 24MD-DL,, 140 reserve for $79, and the warranty was 3 years
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spotrot
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09/16/11 10:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Battery replacement info - NAPA 8240

'Just returned to Boise where our 2008 Itasca was stored for 6 weeks to find dead (9.0 volt) coach batteries. The chassis battery was fine at about 12.5 V. All 3 were completely disconnected.
Upon a little research, I learned the Winnie-installed NAPA 8240 Stowaway is a "Dual Purpose" battery described as "excellent for starting and moderate deep cycle use."
I don't know why the factory installed a DP battery for a deep cycle use. I certainly never use it for starting. I called Winnie CS and they said they are still installing the NAPA 8240 for coach batteries, and they felt that NAPA batteries have been good.
The replacement 8240 is an inch smaller in height as the original 8240 and I believe it is not as heavy as the original. Its reserve is listed on the NAPA site as 120 (but the label on the battery states 140) and weight at 42 lbs.
One option is the NAPA 8302, which is also the 24DCM size. Its reserve is listed at 150 on NAPA's site and 140 at the store. Weight is listed at 45 lbs. It is described as a deep cycle battery and costs the same $93 locally. So it seems the better choice.
Again, I don't know why Winnie did not install a deep cycle battery for the coach, esp if they are the same price as the DP. Maybe how many years they last is not a concern for them.
Both the NAPA 8240 and 8302 warranties are 1 year free replacment and 3 year prorated.
FYI: Winnie CS said the next size up battery may also fit. I did not research the size, reserve or cost.
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spotrot
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09/16/11 08:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Goodyear G670 Junk!!

Yes, mine were 19.5
My post stated all (6) tires had their outer treads excessively worn.
How could rotating change this?
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spotrot
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09/01/11 11:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Goodyear G670 Junk!!

Tires: G670 RV 245/70R19.5 on 2008 Itasca 30’
All have premature tread wear on outer edge. Always been inflated over the GY chart for the measured weight on them.
Previous to this wear, 4 were replaced new due to vibration issues.
I'm sure some of these tires, probably the majority, are fine. But when a lot of them are not, then it's something important to know.
10 out of the 10 new G670's cost me lots of time, aggravation and money.
Replaced with US made Bridgestone's.
FYI, directly from Goodyear’s website: "River wear (sometimes called errosion wear) is common in situations where steer axle loads are light, turning is infrequent (mainly straight, Interstate routes) and the wear rate is slow. Fortunately, this type of wear condition is noting to worry about from a tire performance standpoint
My edge wear was extreme, and definitely something to worry about.
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spotrot
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09/01/11 10:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Change 2010 S&T file to 2009 format?

Strollin,
You are right, 'forward compatibility' is the problem. MS should have noted that when you opened a 2009 or earlier file with 2010 S&T that it then could no longer be viewed by your other (or others') computers running 2009 or earlier S&T.
2010 S&T effectively deleted my files without warning.
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spotrot
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08/22/11 12:35pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Change 2010 S&T file to 2009 format?

Thanks for the feedback.
One of my problems with 2010 was that it DID convert 2009 S&T files from their previous format into the 'new' format. Then any person or computer that did not run 2010 S&T couldn’t view my files.
Backward compatibility is an essential for any good program. MS simply created this new unreadable format to make S&T customers have to buy the newer versions.
RANT: I was just beginning to think that at least this one little part of MS actually made a customer-friendly product. MS will not get a penny of my $ again.
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spotrot
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08/22/11 12:26pm |
Technology Corner
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Change 2010 S&T file to 2009 format?

I tried the 2010 S&T but MS's changes infuriated me so I went back to 2009 S&T.
The only problem is that I opened two of my 2009 S&T files (routes) and the 2010 S&T changed them to its 'new' format so they can't be viewed by 2009 and older programs.
Does anyone know of a way to convert them back to the 2009 format so they can be viewed?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions
John
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spotrot
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08/22/11 08:47am |
Technology Corner
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RE: motor cycle lift for ford F53 chassis

The quickest and easiest thing to do is weigh your RV. Your rear axle may already be near the max weight listed on your tag.
My 2008 Itasca 30B (F53) was so heavy in the rear from Winnie that even 500 lbs (the rating) on the hitch would be over max.
As mentioned earlier, 1000 lbs added behind the RV transfers much more than 1000 lbs to the rear axle.
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spotrot
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08/21/11 08:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2009 F53 Mountain Road report

I have a 2008 30' now with 30K on the Ford F53 chassis.
I also grew to like the tow/haul feature for braking on hills.
However, recently on really steep long declines, I found that manually putting the trans in lower gears gave me better control over descent and engine rpm.
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spotrot
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07/31/11 12:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Front & Rear Ride Rite Air Bags

I installed rear bags on my '08 30' F35 because the the rear weight was near max from the factory.
I chose to plumb the left and right bag separately to adjust if one side is too heavy.
No need for an auto compressor for me. No leaks and holds the pressure almost indefinately
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spotrot
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07/31/11 12:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2010 and 2011 Winnebago Vista 30W Owners

For readers interested in 30' Winnie products, we fell in love with a similar model in 2008, the Itasca Sunova 30B. One big slide that makes a dance floor when it's out.
We chose vinyl floor over carpet because were in the boonies often. And we didn't want a bedroom slide because it didn't add usable space but it made accessing drawers or getting around the bed more difficult when sleeping over at truck stops with the slide in.
Mods:
Removed chair behind drivers seat
Installed single cavity granite-like kitchen sink
LED lights
Air bags in rear (with the Ford F35 chassis, the rear weight is almost at max from the factory)
Removed a couple top shelves in pantry to make more room for hanging clothes.
Great thread - maybe I should start one for the 30B's
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spotrot
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07/31/11 11:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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