| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Vent Fan

Do NOT flush with the fan on!!!they will draw air out of the black tank along with a terrible odor when you flush the toilet. Just turn off the fan, flush and then turn back on the fan
I can vouch for this. I once held the flush open for too long while the fan was on. I had to hold my breath while I ran out of the bathroom, and then scrambled out of the trailer. Talk about horrible. Then I had to run to catch up to my camping buddies who had all fled the park bench they were eating at.
|
fox99019
|
01/03/12 02:59pm |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Lock on outside shower

I think the screwdriver would work too. You'd be turning the entire locking mechanism and twisting the ring against the inside of the cover, and a beefy screwdriver should be able to do that easily. Then unscrew it (as described above by Old-Biscuit) and replace it with your choice of non-locking latch.
|
fox99019
|
09/30/11 02:00pm |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: backing up photos

We have three 'portable external hard drives' (flash). Whenever we pull pictures off of the camera they automatically go into a new folder inside of our My Pictures folder. I copy the new folder to Drive I (which always sits on my computer desk), and then also copy them to Drive II. When I drive to work the next day (I work at a bank...), I drop Drive II into our Safe Deposit Box, and drive home with Drive III. I also copy the pictures on to it. It doesn't even take 30 seconds to connect a drive and tell the PC to start copying the photos... The drives range from 500 GB to a TB.
I've always got the photos on the PC. If it gets a virus, I've got them on the Drive I...and at least one complete backup drive in the Safe Deposit Box.
|
fox99019
|
09/09/11 02:53pm |
Technology Corner
|
 |
RE: Another stinky bathroom problem

If the sewage company just dumped the tank without rinsing it out, you probably still have sewage spread over the entire inside of the black tank. And, with the black tank empty, it's exposed to the air...and smelling really bad. I know you have to carry in your own water, but I suggest calling out the septic company again, This time, fill the tank with water, dump it, repeat, and then partially fill it with water again. Add chemicals at this point, and see if the smell doesn't get better.
My $0.02.
|
fox99019
|
09/09/11 01:50pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Help opinions on sewer hose.

Place the slinky end in a pot of almost boiling water to soften it. Remove it from the water and immediately slide the fixed end on. If you find it really difficult, ask someone (young and healthy) preferred to put it on for you. If you're in the same CG I am, I would be happy to help......I am in Washington but I am sure some good ole Texas boy will be glad to oblige.....Dennis
Ummm...can I borrow one of YOUR pots when I try that! :W
|
fox99019
|
09/09/11 01:43pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: X-Chocks Mistake

I've used a single BAL X-chock for a year and a half, and then started using a 2nd one (one on each side) on our last trip. Many folks on this site had suggested using two, but I was still surprised at how much it reduced the movement in the trailer. It used to be when I heard someone rolling over in the rear bunk, I could feel it bounce in the front queen-bed. This last trip, I heard them roll over 2 or 3 times, and didn't notice any bouncing. And, in retrospect, I didn't notice it at the dinette while eating, or while sitting on the couch reading.
I don't know for SURE how it works, but I imagine that when you use a wedge-chock the trailer is rolled up against the chock, but movement in the trailer is only restricted by gravity from rolling a few cm's away from the chock. The x-chock would work to prevent movement in EITHER direction, which would result in less movement in the trailer. Clearly the frame and suspension will still move, but the x-chocks restrict the side-to-side movement.
At least that's the best I've been able to figure out how it works...but it DOES work.
|
fox99019
|
08/26/11 09:52am |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Installing vinyl insert trim around windows and doors

I stopped by the trailer on the way to work today...only to find that my camera has a dead battery. Lol, so does the trailer next to me, with a REALLY annoying propane-detector low-battery alarm...
I got my trim from the dealer that sold me the trailer. I've discarded my packaging, but I recall that it was mady by either JR Products or AP Products (I looked at both), and it was called Plastic Insert 1" x 25'. I think I've found it online in a 50' roll as #011-331.
I'll still try to get photos tomorrow, but I can tell you that it DOESN'T lie flat, and it DOES bulge out, strikingly similar to what the OP has shown, maybe a litte flatter...but without the kinks. It bulges out the same amount that the original trim did.
Based on what the earlier post said, I WOULD be intrigued to do it again with a trim that would lie a little flatter. After all, I did lose my trim while driving, and maybe a flatter trim would have stayed put. I only went with 1" because it more closely approximately what the original trim looked like.
|
fox99019
|
08/24/11 10:22am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: X-Chocks Mistake

My wife has pulled away with an BAL X-Chock in place. It spit out right as she stepped on the brakes, having just realized something was wrong. It broke the cotter pin, but didn't mess up the rest of the chock (we still use it, to this day). My buddy has also driven off without stopping and he also spit his chock out. Several different pieces were bent. He eventually hammered the offending pieces back into shape, and also still uses it.
They won't prevent you from driving away, and I don't think it's reasonable to expect that they would. Your tire is rubber and has some give. Unless you aligned the chock exactly in the center of the tires the oppositional forces of the tires will spit it out sidesways.
|
fox99019
|
08/23/11 11:33am |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Installing vinyl insert trim around windows and doors

I just finished mine this weekened (forgot pics, sorry). My gap was 1/2 " (not counting the part of the trim that fits under the edges), and I used 1" trim. It went in fine without pinching, and without trimming any of it.
|
fox99019
|
08/22/11 10:05am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Using X-chock(s)

We used to use a pair of x-chocks, but my DW drove off with one of the chocks still in place (she was camping by herself). We camped a few times with just one x-chock, until I could get around to fixing the bent one. The single chock still helped, but it wasn't as good as two chocks. I recently fixed the 2nd chock and we camped this past weekend. It didn't occur to me until now that I didn't notice the camper moving at all... Two are DEFINATELY better than one, which are INFINATELY better than none.
|
fox99019
|
08/18/11 03:27pm |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Lookin' at my roof today...

I'm re-sealing my questionable areas on the roof this weekend. The advice I got was that if I had ANY question about a specific seal, then it's better off to just re-caulk it. I plan on scraping off any areas that don't look perfect, and applying Dicor to the bare surface.
I've also had my antenna boot come up, and it's a great idea to seal it down. I love the advice on this site!!!
|
fox99019
|
08/18/11 02:52pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Installing vinyl insert trim around windows and doors

Replacing the trim around our door is on my to-do list this weekend. What good timing for this post!
The gap that I'm trying to cover is exactly 1/2" wide. I figured that I will have to allow for some of the vinyl to slip under each of the edges, and some of the width will create the raised curve. The shop sold me 1" tape (just like the OP...), and it seems like 3/4" would have been too skinny... (1/2" gap, with appx 1/8" under each edge would total 3/4"...which means it would lie flat...). Notice that the photo above looks great...except for the curved portion.
@Camper8251, do you mean that the OP should trim a little curved area from the left of the vinyl, where it abuts the curved inside door/window frame? The vinyl strip appears to have a lip on it, and I'm worried that if I trim the vinyl, all that I'll be doing is removing this lip, such that the vinyl won't seat under the trim edge.
Am I missing something?
|
fox99019
|
08/18/11 11:55am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Storage of WD bars

I put mine in the passthrough hanging on pegboard hooks.
http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad46/alanp41779/RV%20Pictures/IMG_0137.jpg
Nice! Heading out for peg board tomorrow. Thanks!
x2 that it looks nice. How did you mount the peg board? I'm VERY interested in doing that mod, but wasn't sure if I could screw the peg board in without poking through the other side... Any tips?
|
fox99019
|
07/29/11 10:26am |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Worst RV mistake?

I was draining my water heater and took out the manifold tubing that delivers gas to the burner, hoping to make it easier to reach the drain opening. When I was done, I tightened the manifold really good...TOO good.
I wanted to make sure that it worked on our next trip, so I watched it work for about 2-3 minutes and then I closed the hatch back up. About 10 minutes later a relative stopped by unexpectedly, and as he walked up to our site he asked me if my water heater was supposed to be smoking. "Oh sure" I replied. "There's a small combustion chamber in there, and I'm running on gas right now". He said "yeah, but not THAT much smoke, right???" The tubing was leaking gas through the overtightened compression fittings, and when I opened the hatch there was a steady 3" flame where there shouldn't have been ANY! We got it put out, and we ran on electric the rest of the trip. We lucked out with just a little smoke damage to the chasis of the heater cover/hatch. The scary thing is that I've seen how fast one of them can go up...
|
fox99019
|
07/22/11 04:32pm |
Beginning RVing
|
 |
RE: No More Storage Rental Fees!!!

Of the posts that disagree with the OP, I don't think I've seen a single one that also understands that the property in question IS the OP's property. Completely. 100%. Some posts have acknowledged that fact, but none have comprehended exactly what that means. I've never seen a zero-lot-line property, and it seems weird to me, but it's HIS property...
Take my yard for a moment. My neighbor and I had about 20 feet between us. I owned 12, and he owned 8. When we built a fence, I went (can you believe it!) all the way up to the property line. The OP has NO property on the other side of his house, and he owns this ENTIRE section. He, as did I, went all the way to his property line, and no further.
My other neighbor stored a boat on his side yard. It was within 6 inches of our dividing fence. Was I offended that he went 'right up' to my property? NO! In the OP's case the 'fence' IS the house. He owns the property, and he's using it. It's not violating (as far as we know) any covenants, and the neighbor's maintenance access hasn't been curtailed.
One more example. Suppose your neighbor builds a wood fence, and after a few years he decides to do some maintenance on it, and he needed to get at 'your' side of the fence. Would you have avoided building your frontage fence all the way to the property line just to allow him maintenance access? NO! You would have built the FULL fence, and politely given him access when he needed it. That's what the OP has done. Should the OP have instead built a fence that stopped 1 foot short of the neighbor's house? Of course not.
A few have said that it seems legal, but it's poor form for the OP to park so close to the neighbor's house. Based on how skinny the lot is, should the OP refrain from doing ANYTHING with it? Do you ojbect to the garbage cans being so close? It's the OP's yard, and the objections just don't make any sense.
One last thing - if there HAD been a portion of the property that belonged to the neighbor, and the OP was only using THEIR OWN portion of the lot...then I bet nobody here would mind it. People here seem to not be understanding exactly how the lot is set up...IMO.
|
fox99019
|
07/21/11 03:48pm |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Installing fan-tastic vent

I replaced a non-fan vent with a Fantastic Fan. An overhead light was about 12 inches away, and I was able to remove the existing vent and fish out the INCOMING wires to the overhead light. I tapped in to them and the fan works fine. You WON'T need to turn on the light in order to use the fan because you're tapping in BEFORE the electricity reaches the lights.
If they pre-wired, that's great. If not, it's easy to tap into the wires for the light.
corrected: Yes, the next poster was correct. With a WALL switch, the light has to be on...
|
fox99019
|
07/12/11 11:00am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Another idiot giving us all a bad name.

Thanks for the tip. I'm gonna buy 4 prs of Vise Grips. Those spindle nuts on my tandem axle trailer are such a PITA!
?????????????????:h
I think he meant to post it as a reply to THIS thread...
|
fox99019
|
07/12/11 10:56am |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Another idiot giving us all a bad name.

How did he hook up his San-i-Flush while driving?
|
fox99019
|
07/11/11 06:01pm |
General RVing Issues
|
 |
RE: Indentation in sidewall of trailer tire

I also have Goodyear Marathon's, and posted the same question about a year ago. The answer I most often got was that it is normal. Part of the material in the tire overlaps when it's manufactured, and it does a little better job than the surrounding area of containing the tire pressure - so it's bulges a little less...
Goodyear Marathon post
|
fox99019
|
07/11/11 02:12pm |
Travel Trailers
|
 |
RE: Hot Water Tank Issues

I agree with brirene, that you need to make sure that your water heater is not bypassed. Many RV owners will drain the water in their pipes and replace it with pink anti-freeze (NOT the green stuff...), and they'll 'bypass' their water heater to avoid filling it up with 6-10 gallons of anti-freeze. You'll probably just need to UN-by-pass the water heater. My unit has a single valve that I need to turn, but as brirene said, some have up to three. These valves are commonly found next to the body of your heater - where it resides in a closet or under the sink. Find the back of your water heater and see what kind of valves you have. If it's confusing, just post a picture of it on this forum and SOMEONE will have the answer. If you can't find/access the back of the water heater, let us know, and someone can help you find it.
If you DON'T have water in your water heater, you can really mess it up if you try running it, so be sure to investigate this BEFORE trying to run it some more.
If it turns out that you DO have water in your heater, then there are a whole different set of potential solutions. In that case, folks here will probably want to know if you're running the electric portion of your water heater or the gas portion. If gas, are you getting any flame (as visible from the outside hatch of the water heater)?
Keep posting as you investigate this. People on this site are pretty helpful, and your problem is very common for a 'new-to-you' RV.
Welcome to the site!
|
fox99019
|
07/11/11 01:01pm |
Tech Issues
|
|