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RE: making comments
Or,scroll down thru the thread-there's a 'QUICK REPLY' box at the bottom-some security programs can make the box seem a little far down...another option is to follow the 'QUOTE' link to the upper right if you want to comment on a specific comment posted to the thread...
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/23/12 08:15pm |
Forum Technical Support
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RE: Can't figure out how to install slide lock bars
Can they be placed against any arbitrary piece of wall? I worry about punching a hole in the wall...
Select units may have a steel plate that you'd obviously place the brace against.
Otherwise the opening for the slide definitely has been framed out-that framing is the best place to wedge the brace as it could be possible to puncture the wall if there was nothing behind it(by accidental activation of the slide.
Honestly the brace just keeps the slide from 'bouncing/jiggling' it's way out a little bit-and I'm sure it helps limit the mfrs exposure if the slide broke free and caused an accident!
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/20/12 09:56am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Can't figure out how to install slide lock bars
Some are adjutable and some not.
I use mine and might have forgot one once and my big slide might have opened about a 1/2" over the course of 500 miles-mind you I saw this in my mirror and wasn't to concerned.
Read what's been said above and try out a few positions to see what works best for your application.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/18/12 11:17am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Can't figure out how to install slide lock bars
I think they may be overkill as well...
Anyhow-with a straight slide(the kind that doesn't drop after going out at an angle to give a FLUSH floor) you can install them anyplace between the rubber bulb gasket(in your pic) and the sidewall of the trailer. I like them down fairly low as to that's where the energy driving the slide out is directed.
The flush floor slides walls are tilted slightly so the bar will only snug up in one place-most likely down low as well.
I found that putting the end against the slide gasket with the other end higher works well-dropping the end closer to the wall until it comes in contact and then tapping down with my fist to make it snug works best.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/17/12 08:16pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Tankless HWH retrofit???
I'll be watching this...
I think these things will be the next evolution in RVs...Zero-loss furnaces are next!
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/17/12 10:03am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Installing wallpaper in my rv kitchen
I think I lightly sanded and then primed the walls with Killz.
There was a leak I didn't know about(walls and floor were frozen when i bought it!) I used Killz on everything after my reconstuction and after that left the lower sections of the walls as wood panelling with a chair rail(as was OEM) breaking the paper on the top half. I self leveled the floors also and installed 12" sqr tiles that are still stuck today. I also painted the ceiling with a textured paint and put that fibre wood grain molding they sell at HD over the old seems in the ceiling...mind you my little fix up project became a total makeover...
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/17/12 09:47am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Seasonal Sewer Connect
Some people think it's 'slipperier'! The other advantage is that you can taper it to have nice drain of your grey water-you still need to keep the black valve closed!
Honestly-laying your hose in a piece of gutter on a support at the trailer's connector is as good or better...gets you a nice taper and no special tools/material or anything else to buy.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/15/12 02:08pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 1990 Ford E350 Van Rear axle seals. Easy to do?
Here's the overly-simplified down low:
That should be a full floater in an e350 with drums...if it's the axle seal you just remove the 8 bolts in the middle of the wheel and re-seal(oil would be on the exterior of the wheel)
If there's oil on the inside of the wheel then it's the hub seal and you need to unbolt the small circle of bolts to pull the axle and then remove the hub bolt(special socket) to remove the hub and bearings-the seal is attached to the inside of the hub-replace and reassemble making sure to reseal the axle end as well.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/15/12 02:01pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Best built Toyhauler
Personally I think the Newmar X-aire is probably the best built and still backed by a mfr toy hauler out there...sadly, Newmar has announced that 2012 will be the last year of their towables.
New Horizons is right up there-and would be my next choice if I was looking for a new toy hauler today.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/15/12 01:50pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Should I buy this F350 7.3L to replace my Suburban K2500?
The price may be little high-but not much if the trucks are in great shape-a clean 4x4 7.3 anything will demand close th 15K. The bottom in the northeast seems to be about 6K and that's for a 300K mile work truck.
As far as performance the change for you will be night and day. Some kinda history of what's been done and the condition of the tranny are the two most important things you need to learn.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/15/12 12:14pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Installing wallpaper in my rv kitchen
I did this to our old fiver(along with replacing some panelling-all of which became part of a massive makeover!)
I ended up spackling the joint and lightly sanding-still know the 'new' owners and other than the paper curling at the edges in some places it still looks great.
I used a white textured paper that was more of a vinyl kinda material-looked better than new when done! Got everything from HD.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/15/12 12:09pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Good Sam Icon
Well...It just appeared....how is that for quick....
Big brother is ALWAYS watching! ;)
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/14/12 03:45pm |
Good Sam Club
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RE: Great toe amputation
I know someone that had it shaved down some and it became a fiasco-their balance was screwed up tremendously.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/10/12 07:24pm |
RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
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RE: Clean day/night blinds?
I'm curious how this works out...
I would imagine that you'd need some water 'flow' to get dirt to 'move' off the surface.
Odors would go away with a light wash with some detergent and then rinse-actually, some dust probably would too.
If no one has done this why not take a shot with just one-maybe an easy one to replace that doesn't have to be a perfect match to some others nearby? (bathroom or bedroom would be smaller and easy to replace if you trash it)
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/09/12 11:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold 1200 is confused
What's the outside temp? I've seen screwy things happen with an empty fridge and an temp below 40 outside...
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/07/12 12:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fifth Wheel Landing gear motor.
Addding to above-
In the event that you have to pull the truck out and then drop the trailer down, lowering should not be very demanding on the motor(although hitchin up will be another story-and being plugged in with the batteries juiced is key again-also, when the front of the fiver is low you can usually plug into the under bumper plug when parked just in front of the trailer)
I think the key is to make sure you're plugged in to the truck or pedastal (or both!) when doing lots of up and down.
Back to my origninal comments-when I started having problems aluminum foil got me home! I found I was begining to have mechanical problems with my legs that were putting extra demands on the single motor...a pair of PowerPlus jacks fixed this for me and I would never go back to a single motor setup.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/05/12 09:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fifth Wheel Landing gear motor.
Single motor setups stink...but yes, jumping or a slightly larger fuse only used for a short duration to get the trailer moved should be ok.
Anyhow-barring uneven distribution of weight(meaning one leg is taking more than the other) all of the electrical connections are important-there seem to be a lot in the jack setup(inluding a key and a few switches sometimes)
Do you keep the truck plugged in and the engine running(both of which will help keep the voltage at peak) when operating the jacks? Also-making sure that the trailer battery is not run down will help too.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/04/12 03:17pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Lifetime Membership
I wonder less about my lifetime membership and much more about what in the world my RV might look like in 2048!
I have to imagine that we may have a totally self contained and super insulated rig-with some sort of 0 loss heating and cooling system that captures the heat from our refrigeration, cooking, and waste decomposition to provide for our general energy needs as well as some sort of salt/hydrogen generator that helps to power our rig down the road.
Ahhhhh....only if us Gen-X'ers will be able to retire!
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/04/12 01:24pm |
Good Sam Club
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RE: Anybody in Phoenix (Mesa) want to do me a favor?--solved
Somebody here will probably do a basic check out for nothing-I'd suggest you speak with them and ask them to take a look at whatever you have concerns about, and help to find whether its worth it for you to go to buy it or not.
Many people buy on ebay sight unseen so with all the right info and lots of pics you should be able to get to a comfort level that you're good to go before taking the ride.
I wouldn't commit before you go-or at least have an escape clause in whatever you sign.
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/03/12 01:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: TECH PROBLEMS
I click on MY FORUMS and then MY PREFERNCES-think it pops up right there...and I do think we used to take a different route-but not sure...just poke around!
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SuperDutyFiver
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05/03/12 01:45pm |
Forum Technical Support
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