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RE: Leaf Spring Bracket sheared off- pictures
I think that wear is from the broken shackle. I just replaced that tire. The other tire (on the same axle is fine).
That is exactly how the axle was on our 5vr. One side was fine and the other was bent and wore the tire through to the steel belt on the inside edge. Keep an eye on the tire wear because I kind of think that you have a bent axle. I know it's something that you don't want to hear but it's a distinct possibility.
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Hamops
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05/17/12 06:28pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Leaf Spring Bracket sheared off- pictures
You sure you do not have another issue here in the red box. Where are the welds.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj53/snoking1127/frameissue.jpg
Chris
I said that on the second or 3rd post of this thread.
You not only have a broken shackle, but also the makings of a bent axle. If you look closely at the tire in the picture, you'll notice that the inside of the tire tread is more worn than the outside. The very same thing happened to me and required a replacement axle.
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Hamops
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05/16/12 04:19pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Shocking experience
Driving a ground rod to ground the trailer should NOT be done. This is especially important when you are connected to shore power. When connected to shore power, your trailer is grounded back at the supply panel for the shore power. If you have two ground points, one at the supply panel and one at the trailer, ground currents can start to flow, which is something that you definitely don't want. Also you don't want your neutral connected to ground in your trailer panel for basically the same reasons. The neutral is always connected to ground at the power source (ie Pole or ground mount transformer) and no where else. Even though the trailer has breaker panel with breakers etc, the trailer is basically a big appliance that is plugged into the power source and must wired accordingly, just like any other appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle.
I view the panel in the trailer as a subpanel off of whatever I am plugged into.
Yes, there's nothing wrong with viewing the power panel in the trailer as AC subpanel, but even with a subpanel, the power connection rules must be followed, which means that the ground and neutral are not connected in it. I used the words, "big appliance" for the trailer because electrically, it's no different from an appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle in the kitchen.
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Hamops
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05/10/12 09:42am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: 5th Wheel hitch
We recently purchased a new Rockwood Ultra-lite 8265 WS that comes with a Reese Revolution 5th wheel sidewinder hitch. Is anyone familiar with this hitch and what kind of 5th wheel hitch should we buy for the pickup. We were advised that we would need a locking wedge for the hitch. We were also advised to stay away from hitches with a sliding bar and look only at those with locking jaws. As you can probably guess, we are not familiar with hitches and any help would be greatly appreciated.
All Reese 5vr hitches that I'm aware of, use a jaw type system. The Revolution is just a newer version basically. The jaw type hitches have two halves that close around the kingpin as the trailer is backed into the hitch. Once the jaws are closed, they are automatically locked into position and can't be opened until the release bar is pulled. The face of the jaws take all the pulling load.
Being told to avoid the hitch with the sliding bar is probably good advice although there will be those who will dispute that. With the bar hitch, once you have backed the kingpin into the hitch, you need to push the bar across the opening to lock in the kingpin. The bar is the component that takes the pulling load of the 5vr. There have been issues with bar durability and I have seen reports that the bar has bent or wore excessively. That's possibly the reason for the advice. I don't know how the bars are made but I can tell you that the jaws in a jaw type hitch are either cast or drop forged and are very strong.
We've had our Reese 16K slider for the last 9 years and with a little maintenance each year, it's still working well.
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Hamops
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05/10/12 09:07am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Shocking experience
Thanks all and some great info, and links. I still need to reread all the previous threads, I just skimmed over them.
So, does anybody run a direct ground from thier trailer?
Driving a ground rod to ground the trailer should NOT be done. This is especially important when you are connected to shore power. When connected to shore power, your trailer is grounded back at the supply panel for the shore power. If you have two ground points, one at the supply panel and one at the trailer, ground currents can start to flow, which is something that you definitely don't want. Also you don't want your neutral connected to ground in your trailer panel for basically the same reasons. The neutral is always connected to ground at the power source (ie Pole or ground mount transformer) and no where else. Even though the trailer has breaker panel with breakers etc, the trailer is basically a big appliance that is plugged into the power source and must wired accordingly, just like any other appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle.
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Hamops
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05/10/12 08:41am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Shocking experience
For mine right now, I changed the location where I plugged in, doesn't seem to have issues right now. I am going over later and will play with readings with my dvm, see if they change with plug in location.
All this problem sounds like the Hot and Neutral were incorrectly connected at the receptacle that you originally plugged into. Since the problem is not there now that you moved to another receptacle. Go back the first receptacle and remove it, and check to see if the black wire is connected to brass screw (short slot on the receptacle front) and the white wire is connected to the silver screw (long slot on the receptacle front). If they are not, isolate the receptacle and correct the wiring on the receptacle.
If you ever find that you are getting a slight shock from your exposed metal on the trailer, always look to your power source for correct polarity. You likely got the slight shock because of AC polarity reversal, which energized your trailer frame. As previously mentioned, buy a AC polarity checker and plug it into your shore power source to ensure that this doesn't happen again.
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Hamops
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05/10/12 08:20am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Towing
You're better off with a 1 ton Dually because you should be rating the size of the tow vehicle by the GVWR of the trailer and not the dry weight.
If the dry weight is 12.4K lbs, then you are looking at a loaded weight of 13.5 to 14K lbs. The 2500/Dmax-Allie will pull it but you'll exceed the weight limits of the truck. Your pin weight will be atleast 2400 lbs. With that, plus about 7K lb for the truck, you'll be at or exceeding the GVWR of the truck. Thus the need for the dually.
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Hamops
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05/10/12 07:58am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: to chip or not to chip DURAMAX engine?
I have a 2006 LBZ and I tow heavier than you and consistently get 12 mpg plus/minus a half or so. I never tow over 60 mph. I wouldn't touch it with any programmer.
I'm getting about the same results for our LBZ and all I do is put the truck in "D", turn on "T/H and set the cruise for a 100 klicks and drive.
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Hamops
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05/08/12 08:57am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Safe / Ideal RPM Range When Towing
Brought home our new Keystone Passport 238ml today. I am towing with an 04 Dodge Dakota Quad cab with the 4.7 V8 engine.
I drove home with the overdrive off. 60mph @ 2500 rpm
What do you recommend for an rpm sweet spot / range? Moving from pop up to travel trailer so very new to pulling this kind of weight. Weight distribution and sway bars work great though!
With the combination that you described, it would seem that you're actually doing well with your TV. Turning off O/D is a good idea, because it forces the engine to rev a little faster which brings it closer to your torque peak and raises the horsepower output. This can actually give you slightly better fuel mileage. Running at 2500 RPM won't hurt the motor because the auxiliaries will be pumping more coolant, thereby better cooling the engine and raising the lube oil pressure for better engine lubrication. The increased revs also reduces the stress put on the engine.
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Hamops
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05/08/12 08:40am |
Towing
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RE: Mileage Wierdness
You didn't mention if you had your trailer hitched when you did this test but I assuming that you did. There are many variables for fuel mileage, with the primary one being speed, but wind is another that increases the fuel consumption. Maybe you were experiencing a headwind at the time of one of the tests.
As for shifting down to 4th, and getting a slight improvement in fuel is a non brainer. What you did there is run the engine closer to its torque peak, thereby utilizing the fuel better. With the engine going a little faster you are getting more horsepower from it as well.
I had a similar situation with an '03 Silverado 5.3 with a 3.73 rear. I found that my fuel mileage improved slightly when I locked out overdrive. I always tow with the tow/haul turned on. At the time, we had a small 5vr that grossed at 6000#, and the fuel mileage averaged about 10 mpg or less to the USG.
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Hamops
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05/06/12 06:46pm |
Towing
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RE: weight concerns...help!!
Okay, next question.Our TV has a weight limit of 12,500.Is an 11,400 5er too heavy?
You were a little light on the specifications. It would be nice if you gave the TV make, model, engine, rear axle, and all the specifications that are listed on the truck's label, like GVWR, GFAWR, GRAWR, etc. Also include the trailer GVWR, the dry weight and the pin weight so that the pin weight ratio can be estimated.
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Hamops
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05/02/12 09:31am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Leaf Springs too small for axle rating
Interesting Craig. I've weighed my rig at a CAT scale, and the axle weight is about 8250# which is about a ton short of the gross axle weight rating. If your U-bolts are hitting the trailer frame then maybe longer spring mounts were needed to give added clearance.
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Hamops
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05/01/12 04:29am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Sudbury to Wawa
I'm planning a cross-Canada trip (westbound currently) and Streets and Trips routed me out of Sudbury on route 35 to to 144 to 101 into Wawa. I had originally planned on highway 17, which we have previously travelled to the Sault but would be willing to try this alternative if it is on reasonably good roads.
Any knowledge of the 35-144-101 choice?
Thanks,
Don
Here's a link to a Youtube video that was posted about the "Shortcut" from Hwy 144 to 129/101.
SULTAN INDUSTRIAL ROAD
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Hamops
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04/30/12 05:44pm |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: Leaf Springs too small for axle rating
I changed my springs a few years ago. I had 2-2600 lb packs on 5200 lb axles. I verified they were 2600 when I took an old pack to a trailer store and they were identical to the new ones. I also miked the thickness of the leaf material to be sure - they aren't all the same thickness. I never broke a leaf but I needed more arch/travel and more capacity. I got new 3000 lb springs. 1" more arch and .040 thicker material, so I know there are 3k springs out there. Craig
I was of the same mind as you, regarding the springs on our 5vr. I was talked out of going to 3K spring packs for my 5.2K axles, by the owner of the spring shop that I dealt with. He told me why and after listening to him, it made a lot of sense. He said that it's a matter of strength. He said that if your trailer hits a bump, you want the spring to take the majority of the load and not the axle nor the trailer. If I was to replace the 2.5K spring packs with 3K's then the axles and the trailer would take most of the shock, eventually bending the axle/axles. His suggestion to me was, if I wanted 3K spring packs then I'd have to replace the 5.2K axles with 6K axles which wasn't necessary on our 5vr. It was his opinion that the 5.2K axles and 2.5K spring packs were more than sufficient to do the job they were intended to do.
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Hamops
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04/30/12 05:17pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Rear end too low
Thanks for all the tips, makes sense about moving the jacks more forward due to the departure angle of the rear. I do like the roller idea. Will report back we are headed out to a pretty bumpy forest road this weekend so hopefully all will work out
Thanks again
If you are taking it over a bumpy forest road, you might want to consider steel skis at the back of your trailer. ;)
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Hamops
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04/23/12 10:49am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Rear end too low
Is it just me or did you not say someone raised the rear of your truck. Get it back down.
I agree with this comment. The only real way to level you 5vr is lower the truck back to it's design height. That does a whole lot of things for you besides aleiveate your rear stablizer problem. With your truck and trailer level, you are towing a far more stable combination.
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Hamops
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04/23/12 10:45am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: German Newbies want to see Canada - starter questions
You've received a lot of advice about Canada and what to see but your key question was only answered a couple of times.
If you wish to cross Canada in the summer months, then August to October is not the ideal time to do it. If you are intending to schedule 10 to 12 weeks for the trip, then my suggestion to you is to move your timetable ahead atleast 6 weeks. For safe and pleasant driving, travelling across Canada should be done between mid June at the earliest and mid September at the latest. Outside that timeframe, the weather can be very unpredictable, especially after mid September. Winter can set in early in some locations and occasions.
We've been from the east to the west coasts and there is alot to see and experience. Enjoy your time in Canada and have a safe trip.
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Hamops
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04/22/12 08:16am |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: Newbee looking for advice on first spring start-up
If the rig has been sitting for 5 years then be sure to check and repack the wheel bearings.
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Hamops
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04/22/12 07:00am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Buy off lot or special order? Any effect on bargaining?
I ordered our truck, the way I wanted it. I ordered a 4X2 which you don't find on the dealers lots now a days. I ordered the engine and trim package that I wanted as well as any options that suit towing like the camper mirrors. By doing that, I got what I wanted, and I'm very satisfied with our truck. Had I bought off the dealer lot, it would have been a "had of known" and "would have or have not" situation. That's the dilemma, I would have put myself in.
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Hamops
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04/21/12 07:31am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Need storage near Toronto
We will be ending our 2012 summer trip in October near Toronto and will use the Airport to fly home for the winter.
Can any recommend a storage safe place near the city.
Thanks.
You may want to check with your Insurance provider that your rig will be covered while it's in storage. Some storage companies may require that you show proof of insurance before accepting your truck and trailer in their storage facility.
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Hamops
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04/19/12 11:35am |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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