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RE: Des Moines paper reporting attempted purchase of Winnebago
I would actually suspect the opposite. When the buyer states that they have little interest in the company name, that means they also have no understanding of the RV customer's needs, or desires. This is purely a financial decision, which means the company will loose it soul. The people at the top must have a personal interest in the product, otherwise profit becomes the primary controlling factor, rather than innovation, and integrity.
Spot on!!!
The whole thing doesn't pass the smell test. A company doesn't haul "kit" vehicles to the Midwest to assemble them and then haul them back to the coasts to sell them.
And those "kit" vehicles would still have to pass all EPA and vehicle standards.
I think it's some bottom feeding for a "name" brand company. If they can buy it cheap (and $11 a share is cheap), they can then cut costs including R&D and make money while running the company into the ground. Classic slash and burn management is what I would expect.
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427435
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05/21/12 10:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Solenoid testing
I've replaced the "booster" relay twice on my MH. First time was when I first got the MH 7 years ago, and it wouldn't work. It quit working again last fall. They are available for anywhere from $8 to $20 depending on where you shop. With Fords, it's probably a good idea to carry a spare, as the same kind of solenoid is also used in the engine starting circuit.
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427435
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05/20/12 10:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replaceing water heater element
There was no easy access to the element. I had to take all the screws out of the surround, unhook one of the water lines, and pull it out about 8 inches. Got the element out (first time I ever used the 1-1/2" socket in my 3/4" drive socket set). Checked it's continuity----------and it was fine!!!!!:h
Did some more checking and found that one of the two temp switches had a reset that had popped. The system has one temp switch that normally controls the water temp to 140. The second one (with the reset) kicks out at 170 and serves as a safety. Evidently, when the electric element was turned on without water in the tank, it popped the 170 switch but not the 140. :h :h :h
Put stuff back together and it's working fine. I probably could have accessed the 170 breaker without sliding the unit out, but sliding it out wasn't too bad using a cordless drill on all the screws.
Live and learn.
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427435
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05/20/12 10:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Colorado mountain passes
Hmmmmm. We've been through the Eisenhower tunnel with our rig (east to west) and toad, but didn't get slowed down to 15 mph. The V10 wouldn't handle 2nd gear, but once in first it would run up to 30 mph if you wanted to wind the engine. We settled in at 25 mph. Our toad weighs 5000 lbs too.
Coming west up to Wolf's pass, was about the same----although there were stretches where it would pull 2nd gear for a while.
We drove part of the "Million Dollar Highway" in our toad. While possible, I wouldn't want to do it in my MH pulling a toad. However, I would suggest spending a day or two in Durango and drive the highway in your toad on one day and taking a ride on the steam locomotive powered train on another day.
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427435
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05/17/12 06:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Replaceing water heater element
The electric element is burned out on my 10 gallon Atwood water heater in my 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U. Is the best way to just bite the bullet and remove all the screws on the surround on the outside of the water heater and pull it part way out? Or is there another easier way?
Thanks.
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427435
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05/12/12 10:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Uphill downhill
You won't hurt it at 5000 rpm. It sounds fast but remember that it's firing 25% more at a given rpm than a V8 because it's a V10. I will run mine up to 5000 at times, but normally keep it between 4500-4800 under the conditions you asked about.
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427435
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04/23/12 08:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: RV to the beach?
It's probably a little like taking a MH onto a frozen lake-----------maybe you'll be OK and maybe not. I got stuck in my own lawn once-------don't ask how.
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427435
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04/12/12 08:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel vs. Gas/ Yes I know it has been discussed before
On ongoing discussion with no clear answers:
Diesel fuel more $$$
Diesel better economy
Fuel costs essentially a wash.
Diesel maintenance a bit higher
The larger the coach the more attractive diesel becomes.
Diesel are most often pushers and are extremely quiet on the road.
Most diesels will have air suspension...much better ride.
How far you travel is irrelavant to the decision. It's all about what you want.
Bluntly put, if the cost differances are a budget buster you might want to reconsider any MH.
Nuts. Staying at home because one can't afford the price of a DP but can afford a gas MH is just plain foolish. The trips in our MH (see signature) have been great and very affordable. You can see on the map that the trips include Alaska.
With about $1000 of shocks and other things, it rides nicely and is quite quiet. It cost us $50,000 6 years ago and owes us nothing today (although it still has plenty of resale value).
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427435
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04/12/12 07:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel vs. Gas/ Yes I know it has been discussed before
First, if cost of fuel is an issue, a MH may not be something you really want to buy. Besides fuel costs, you have depreciation, insurance, and maintenance/repair costs. The depreciation and repair costs can equal the fuel costs.
I don't really think that the near future (10 years) will be much different than today in things that will affect your choice. If you plan on driving lots of miles per year, maybe a smaller diesel powered MH will be better. If a 35' MH (with slides of course) is adequate and you're not driving 10,000+ miles per year, than a gas MH may be more economical. If you have to have a 40' MH, your choice on fuel is made.
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427435
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04/12/12 09:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Gas tank Full?
You might buy several cans of Techron. It may clean off the inside contacts on the fuel sender.
Techron
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427435
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04/11/12 07:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Just a reminder to drive (EXTREMELY GRAPHIC)
Both a careless and inexperienced driver. If you look at a couple of times, the driver drifted into the slush in the middle to stay farther away from the vehicle he was passing. When the slush pulled him/her to the left, he/she over corrected to the right and then froze rather than counter steer.
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427435
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04/10/12 09:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH jack slow on one corner
Put a little transmission fluid on a rag and rub the jack down with it fully extended.
This always makes me laugh. When retracted, the RAM is immersed in ATF:B You have a defective inner seal and the ONLY fix is to replace the cylinder with a rebuilt or new. You can do as others state and constantly clean and wipe and spray the exposed ram tube but that is NOT fixing the problem and who wants to constantly crawl underneath to do that???? Doug
I don't agree. It is a "one-way" ram. The part you see, when the jack is extended, never sees oil unless the seal at the top of the ram is leaking.
What I think happens is that the seal at the bottom of the cylinder that is supposed to wipe the dust and water off the ram, when it retracts, dries out (no oil on it, remember) and grips the ram too tightly.
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427435
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04/10/12 10:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: GPS INQUIRY
I've got an obsolete GPS also. However, it acquires the satellites quickly, shows exit lane, easy to program, and is very intuitive to use. It's 4 years old and the company got out of the automotive GPS business. It's a Lowrance iWay 600C.
But, alas, there are no updates for new roads. However, I won't be buying a new one as long as this once keeps working as I can also use maps for the few new roads that aren't on its data base.
Some good deals on used ones on Ebay.
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427435
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02/27/12 08:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Brakes
I bought the best pads that O'Reilly auto parts had-------whatever they were. They've been fine.
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427435
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02/26/12 03:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Reliability of Basement A/C
We've had no real problems in our 2000 Winny product with basement air. I did have to slide it out to bend a piece of tubing away from the blower housing. It would make some noise when running from the tube vibrating on the blower housing. It is now very quiet and doesn't disturb our sleeping.
The heat pump doesn't work (probably a stuck valve that shifts from cooling to heating). We haven't really had much need for that as the furnace works fine and we have a portable electric heater for "cold" nights.
I like not having the weight on the roof or the potential for condensate water leaks from a roof A/C.
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427435
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02/24/12 08:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Toad
With today's computer controlled injection systems (both diesel and gas), short trip driving is less of an issue. Adjust oil change intervals accordingly or just follow the oil change indicator if the car has one. It will adjust for short trip driving if the car has one.
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427435
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02/23/12 05:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bucket Lists
I added one thing to mine this fall (while in New Zealand) and took care of it the same day. The whole trip, including 3 weeks in Australia had been on our bucket list for a while. Great trip.
Bungee Jump
As far as MH travels, we have a number of states to hit yet. Our next trip will include Key West for Halloween!!
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427435
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02/23/12 05:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: F53 Lug Nuts
Besides an appropriate sized torque wench and breaker bar, a 2-3' crowbar is quite handy for levering the tire back onto the lug bolts.
Also, when torquing the lug nuts, tighten them in a criss-cross fashion (like torquing a cylinder head). First, bring the torque up to about 75% on all lug nuts before bringing them up to full torque.
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427435
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02/22/12 08:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford V10 Tuners
Bigger torque converters and bigger clutch packs are major differences.
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427435
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02/19/12 09:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Coach painting..
There's an independent company that does Winny's painting. It's name is CDI. A couple of years ago, I messed up the rear corner (darned tail swing). I fixed it myself and went to Forest City to pick up the parts I needed. While there I talked to them about repainting the whole lower half. They quoted $1800 which I didn't think was to bad. I ended up having a local body shop do just the rear corner instead for $450.
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427435
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02/13/12 10:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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