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 > SIMPLE fix just became COMPLICATED...

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DSDP Don

Moorpark, Ca

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Posted: 06/08/14 11:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might be on the right path with the pressure equalization issue. If the switch is telling the system there is too much pressure, it could be shutting everything down. Call Equalizer and see if they can point you to the switch and a way to by pass it.


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bamaboy473

Silverhill, AL

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Posted: 06/08/14 03:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Y-Guy wrote:

Just for giggles try running the engine and see if that helps. Shore power doesn't necessarily mean your engine battery is at full strength. We were told when we bought our Winnie to always run the engine when extending slides/jacks.


OK, Boss, we dis-connected shore power and started the Cummins. Nice to see that volts are the same whether SP or engine (13.7V)

Nothing from any switches...so let's backtrack to what began this problem. Maybe looking at bad pump motor is missing the WHY of the original (and second) motors going bad.

The Keypad for the jacks. On starting the unit, the pad began beeping, and all four lights (for the four jacks) lit up. The Jacks UP light was blinking red, even with the Power button Off. So I gave Power to the keypad and hit Down and then UP. Nothing but the "jacks are still down" beeping. The Jacks Down pad then blinked both Red and Green continuously.

The motor died as I either tried to raise the jacks, or Extend a slide.

So....what in that system is powerful enough to kill the motors? The pump operated with the new motor to the extent that it extended the small slide in the BR, and extended/retracted the main slide three times...so pump isn't...er, doesn't seem to be binding.

buchanan

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Posted: 06/08/14 05:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Y-Guy wrote:

Just for giggles try running the engine and see if that helps. Shore power doesn't necessarily mean your engine battery is at full strength. We were told when we bought our Winnie to always run the engine when extending slides/jacks.

your jacks and slides run off the house batterys not the chassis batterys.The reason the guy most likely told u to run the engine is because lots of times people are dry camping etc and are not plugged in.you run the motor so the alternater helps the batterys which helps the jacks and slides go down and out easier

bamaboy473

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Posted: 06/08/14 06:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Roger that, I understand. In this case the house batteries are as fully charged as if they were alternator-supplied...so let's assume that low voltage is a red herring.

What signal could cause the motor to die, if that signal had to have come from the keypad, or downstream...but upstream from the motor circuit?

garry1p

Oklahoma

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Posted: 06/08/14 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The reason everyone says to check battery voltage is low voltage causes an increase in current through the motor and that is what burns up the motor.

You may have a bad connection somewhere between the battery, solenoid and motor allowing a voltage drop "at" the motor. If there is a way to check the voltage drop at the motor that could tell you something.

Just a wild guess is the control board is trying to do two or more things at the same time overloading the system and the pump is bogging down making the motor work harder. On the other hand that should cause a fuse to blow!


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gemert

orlando

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Posted: 06/09/14 05:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You've mentioned jumping 12 volts to the motor with no results. Have you checked the ground connection to the motor? Could be the motor case is the connection to the chassis or more probably a wire.


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mccsix

Pensacola Florida

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Posted: 06/09/14 09:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you called equalizer?

tropical36

Southwest Florida_USA

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Posted: 06/09/14 10:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bamaboy473 wrote:

2006 Mandolay Valencia with 10,000 miles on her; we are second owners and have had it one month, two trips and 1700 miles. So far so good, or so we thought.

One week between first and second trip, so jacks stayed UP and slides stayed IN. Ours is an Equalizer system that uses one hydraulic pump for both jacks and slides.

Morning of our second trip and neither jacks nor slides would work. Keypad for jacks showed an, "all jacks are not up", message (along with the warning buzzer). Disconnect wiring harness to keypad and do the trip.

Get home and contact Equalizer. Seems that shorting the solenoid didn't produce any life into the pump motor, so it must be defective. Order motor.

Installed new motor and rear slide worked fine. Front slide hung up on the front, so a few times In and Out, trying to get the slide to open evenly. No luck, so I went inside to cool off. Came out 30 minutes later and...and no life at all on the new motor

Coach is like new, with no rust or corrosion anywhere (Missouri)


What could possibly cause the new replacement motor to work only a few minutes? Also, could the un-even slide extension be related, or a symptom of a different problem? All suggestions welcomed by this newbie

Check for a tripped DC circuit breaker on or near the 12vdc board, but then it should have remained tripped from the last one. There might also be an auto reset type breaker and/or and internal thermo overload, but, they should've reset themselves, so just consider some of this, food for thought, while disconnecting it for a spell and then reconnecting it. Another approach would be to run a temporary lead out on the ground and to the pump motor from the coach batteries and see what that might do and I guess you've already tried that once. If you still have the old motor, try bench testing it or out of the coach, anyway and make sure of a good ground return.


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