Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Rear seal leak on Cummins and need to pull Allison MD3060
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 > Rear seal leak on Cummins and need to pull Allison MD3060

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srukke

Washington

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Posted: 06/05/14 11:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll start by saying I am very mechanical, rebuild engines pull and install engines, trannies etc.
But my RV has an Allison MD3060 behind, rather in front of, a Cummins 230hp on a Winnebago pusher. 1993. Great running rig with a rear seal that leaks on the Cummins. The MD3060 is big. Anyone know the weight? Is this doable with a couple guys and a tranny jack? The job seems simple enough it's just the sheer size that gives me pause. Anyone done it and have advise? If I do trannies I usually replace the front tranny seal while it's out. Is that something I would want to do here too? Any specialized equipment other than a heavy tranny lift that's needed?

eHoefler

ozark mountains

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Posted: 06/06/14 05:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The transmission weighs in around 500-600 pounds, you will need a large jack. Replacing the front seal on an Allison is not like smaller transmissions, it does not slide out like the little ones.


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JetAonly

Ohio

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Posted: 06/07/14 06:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is the link to get into the Allison Source Documents. The will likely have all the info you might want.

FWIW you will be working under, not on, your MH. This equipment is killer big. Do you have air bag suspension? You will need to block the travel so a sudden air loss doesn't crush you. Pick up sized equipment is too small for the most part. I use a 22ton air/hydraulic jack and 12ton jack stands on a concrete pad.

Be Safe!


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srukke

Washington

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Posted: 06/08/14 02:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks everyone. It is probably too big of a job for me. I just have a hard time with the $1,900 quoted by a local truck shop. Seems excessive for a drippy seal. I will keep looking.

sjholt

Henderson, NV

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Posted: 06/09/14 05:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might want to consider putting some transmission sealer into the oil on that Cummins. It might swell up that rear main seal and slow and maybe even seal up that drip. The stuff that Walmart(Trans-go?) has really works. Put a couple of cans of that into the oil.


Skip
1996 32' Monaco Windsor DP
Cummins 5.9L 230+ HP
5 Airbags in front- 4 in back

srukke

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Posted: 06/11/14 09:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I already put 3 or 4 cans of the tranny sealer in it. Made no difference. Hoping I can find a more reasonable shop to fix it. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

sjholt

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Posted: 06/12/14 05:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is a guy on IRV2 forum that pulled his trans for a rebuild.
He used the jacks and an 8 x 8" to raise the MH up high enough to get the trans out. It didn't look that hard actually- drop the drive shaft and then unbolt the trans and slide it back to get at the converter bolts and after that- drop the trans out with a HD trans jack.
There is a guy on eBay selling an improved "leak proof" rear seal for the 5.9B and that seems simple to replace.
If $1900 seems excessive to you(I think so too) then You can do it your self and I will do mine when and if it starts leaking.
Google "replacing the allison MD3060 trans".

Mike Hohnstein

Germantown, Wi

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Posted: 06/12/14 06:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

clicky

Tools required


There's a reason for prices quoted for heavy work. Not dealing with small block gas engine here. Screw up the installation of a diesel rear main by trying to beat it in with a drift will not make your day.
It gets down to how much you value your time vs. the value of your money.

rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 06/12/14 11:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First off, the weight of the transmission is a non-issue. Also getting the RV up high enough to get the transmission out from underneath is not necessary. I have dropped several transmissions to work on the engine itself and in most cases, all I had to do was move the transmission slightly out of the way to allow me to work on the rear of the engine. The transmission jack that I use, is not a large one, but it is on wheels and has a 1200 pound capacity. This is more than enough for your transmission. Basically all you have to do is put the jack under the transmission and lower it enough to allow you to roll it back a few inches to allow you to replace the rear seal. Once the seal is replaced, you just roll it forward, raise it, and reattach the transmission. Depending on how the engine is supported, you may have to put a bottle jack or two under the engine when the transmission is removed.

FIRE UP

Lake Havasu City AZ

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Posted: 06/12/14 03:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

srukke wrote:

I'll start by saying I am very mechanical, rebuild engines pull and install engines, trannies etc.
But my RV has an Allison MD3060 behind, rather in front of, a Cummins 230hp on a Winnebago pusher. 1993. Great running rig with a rear seal that leaks on the Cummins. The MD3060 is big. Anyone know the weight? Is this doable with a couple guys and a tranny jack? The job seems simple enough it's just the sheer size that gives me pause. Anyone done it and have advise? If I do trannies I usually replace the front tranny seal while it's out. Is that something I would want to do here too? Any specialized equipment other than a heavy tranny lift that's needed?


srukke,
Well Sir, first off I applaud you for even thinking about doing a job like this yourself. Based on your reported resume, it sounds as if you'd have no problem doing it. Yep, I know the size of some of this stuff can be intimidating but, in most cases of repairs on these rolling Kleenex boxes, it is ONLY size that's different.

You see, back a while ago, I had a left rear axle seal leak on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330 CAT. I'd seen the same types of axles out a zillion times before, while working overtime assignments in our Fire Dept. repair facility. I figured, what the heck, let's do it. So, I jumped in with both feet.

And, as expected, pulling that axle was almost identical to pulling one on a 3/4 ton pickup. Replacing the seal, was also almost identical with the exception that, it was considerably LARGER than a pickup axle seal. So, I improvised. I made a seal installer. It worked flawless.

My point, as one poster above me stated, just get the correct tools/jacks etc. and you'll be probably $1700 ahead of the game after purchasing the seal and, renting the correct tools. Heck, if I were closer, I'd dive in there with you and I'm getting too old for this stuff. To me, some of this stuff is actually still fun to do. I just helped a buddy replace a front wheel seal on his '06 Itasca Meridian 34H. The technical side was almost identical to the rear seal replacement on mine. Piece of cake.
Scott


Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND


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