Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: wandering front
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Harvard

51.6N 114.7W

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Posted: 06/06/14 09:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Explorer1016 wrote:

... I have also setup several off road Jeeps with big axles, big tires and complicated suspension geometry and if the caster is set too far positive the Jeep will wander all over the road. It is called over steer and is a symptom of incorrect caster. Consequently if the caster is too far negative it is very difficult to steer and make corrections, this is under steer. Hope this helps you out.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/why-your-steering-wanders-seems-loose-445430/

I think Explorer1016 has reversed the logic of caster. IMHO

* This post was edited 06/06/14 09:38am by Harvard *





j-d

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Posted: 06/06/14 10:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So 28T describes your coach, Hank? I had the brochure up on the PC and my wife said, "Oh, that's Pretty!"


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

jdog

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Posted: 06/07/14 02:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Has anyone heard that the boost or over boosting of the power steering can also cause this wandering. Over boosting steering wander seems to lessen with caster adjustment.

Explorer1016

Missouri

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Posted: 06/07/14 04:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Harvard wrote:

Explorer1016 wrote:

... I have also setup several off road Jeeps with big axles, big tires and complicated suspension geometry and if the caster is set too far positive the Jeep will wander all over the road. It is called over steer and is a symptom of incorrect caster. Consequently if the caster is too far negative it is very difficult to steer and make corrections, this is under steer. Hope this helps you out.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/why-your-steering-wanders-seems-loose-445430/

I think Explorer1016 has reversed the logic of caster. IMHO


I typically don't respond on this forum if I don't know what I am talking about. I looked at your jeep forum and read the article you were kind enough to point out. I guess since you have questioned my answer I need to tell you that the rigs I am talking about are nothing like the stock Jeeps the author referred to. I have had the same steering issues but had enough experience to start testing steering and suspension geometry before I started buying parts that make little to no difference to the way an off road vehicle steers and this lends itself to RV's trucks, etc. If you have all of the geometry set correctly, good tires, good rims, good rotors, ball joints, steering links and linkage, proper suspension components set the corrects specs, everything should be fine.


2008 Host 300 Super 'C'
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Hank85713

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Posted: 06/08/14 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jd yes that is it, tell you wife thank you. Presently in DFW area and it was hot/humid yesterday and a little cooler so far today. I35 from the south is all construction with narrow lanes so the problem only really showed 1 time but it is still there.

BTW have run 168 miles so far an still under/on 1/4 tank used indicator on gauge. Some winds but was running again at 65mph and not as many pulls so will see tomorrow when we refuel again.

Chopperbob

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Posted: 06/08/14 10:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2. Mine ended up at +5 one side +4 1/2
Other side. Steers like a suv.

j-d

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Posted: 06/08/14 11:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd think that those of us with E-Series would want to Max Out the CASTER so long as:
1. The RF CASTER was about 0.5* More than the LF CASTER, and
2. The CAMBER doesn't get totally whacked out of its range.

Explorer: Do the Modified Jeeps you've set up, perhaps have Negative Camber?
That unusual Camber might explain what we see as unusual Caster.

gotsmart

a bit too late though

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Posted: 06/08/14 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hank,
If the wandering is worse when flat towing the toad, I would suggest starting at the back of the MH first. IMO tail-wag is easier to address. I'm not talking about suspension (shocks, helper springs, or air bags).

1) tow bar height. The manual of my Falcon 2 says that the tow bar (at the receiver) should be no more than +/- 3 inches from level at the car. I use a dual hitch with a 4 inch drop for the tow bar to achieve level. See the below pictures.
2) Install a Quiet Hitch (or equivalent) everywhere you have a hitch pin/hitch lock. My below tow bar pic does not show it but I have 3 of them installed (receiver, tow bar, bike rack).
3 Trac bar on the rear axle of the MH. Some will say install both a trac bar and a rear sway bar. Yes, you can certainly do that but the trac bar is for tail wag.

After doing the rear end, move on to the front end. I would rather have the rear dialed in before doing any front end changes. Here is a link to the work that I have had done.

[image]
[image]
[image]


2005 Cruise America 28R (Four Winds 28R) on a 2004 Ford E450 SD 6.8L V10 4R100
2009 smart fortwo Passion with Roadmaster "Falcon 2" towbar & tail light kit - pictures

j-d

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Posted: 06/09/14 06:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've used the above pic of GotSmart's coach as an example of one that I believe will NOT have tracking problems. In pix of other Class C's, the "House" (not counting the cabover) appears to be balanced on the rear axle. Looking at GotSmart's pic, you can see that the axle is far enough to the rear to transfer a goodly portion of the coach's weight to the front axle. In other words, the picture shows and adequate wheelbase.

jdog

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Posted: 06/10/14 05:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gotsmart, your photo shows that your Quite Hitch takes care of your vertical movement. What about the more important horizontal movement of the hitch?

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