Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Tank Dump doesnt line up
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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Maintenance Issues & Tips

 > Tank Dump doesnt line up

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CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 06/01/14 10:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Remove the black valve and see if the black pipe will line up. If so modify the gray pipe as required including moving it, replacing some of the plumbing or even using a rubber hose.

Otherwise move the drain hole. It appears to be in fiberglass so it would be easy to repair. Or just add a new plate to cover the new and old hole. I suspect this would be a lot easier than moving the pipes which could have unexpected complications.


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rvten

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Posted: 06/01/14 02:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Big thing here is. Poor design to start with.
You would think the designers would look at the product before it goes into full production.
But that would be the smart thing to do.
As a buyer. You need to check this stuff out before taking it home.


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Bird Freak

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Posted: 06/01/14 03:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mine on my 04 Pace Arrow was just like that. I oblonged the hole and made and connected an extension and a 90 degree elbo and ran out under the bottom to hook my hose on. Sealed hole all around pipe with a piece of plastic and caulking. I made a brace to hold pipe up on the outside. No more reaching under to hook up hose.


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Gjac

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Posted: 06/01/14 03:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only thing that I would try first before opening the hole is to follow the gray water line to where it enters the compartment and cut some clearance above the gray water pipe. Then take a wedge( triangular piece of wood) and slide it under the gray water pipe where the wire tie and orange wire is in your picture. I think if you can get a 1/2 in wedge in there you would be able to get your hose on. The compartment is probably made of thermoplastic so if the wedge does not move it enough I would use the rectangular access door that a previous poster suggested.

Bumpyroad

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Posted: 06/01/14 03:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

how far off is it with a second 45 degree fitting?
bumpy





dkreuzen

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Posted: 06/01/14 03:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My last MH (2003 Bounder Diesel) was worse than yours. I had to use a 90 filling and run the hose out the basement door. After a couple of years of that I removed all the piping and valves and started over with new. Line up perfect after that. On my new MH the hole lined up but the connection fitting was so close and the deck plate too small I could barely get a hose on it. I couldn't screw in the deck plate cover unless I rotated the outlet up out of the hole. I replaced the 6" deck plate with an 8" and moved it slightly. Now I can get the hose on it and I can install the cap and deck plate cover.
I would see if you can fit a larger deck plate, a 8" or maybe a 10". That should give you enough room to get your hose connected.

This is the style I used, better than the screw in covers.
http://www.westmarine.com/bomar--locking-composite-deck-plates--P024_726_002_501


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rvten

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Posted: 06/01/14 05:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When making the opening bigger. What do you do to close up gap for critters when hooked up?
Also keeping cold sir out heat in in winter?

AikenRacer

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Posted: 06/01/14 06:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My new mh was about the same way. I took it back to the manufacturer for other repairs and on their own, they cut out a larger hole and put in a larger ring, problem solved.


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AikenRacer

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Posted: 06/01/14 06:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Oh yea, the ring as the same type screw on cover plate.

nomad297

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Posted: 06/08/14 07:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It looks like you have a 6" deck plate. Would installing an 8" locking deck plate as far to the left as you can give you the clearance you need?

Bruce


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