Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Towing: Welded WD hitch
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 > Welded WD hitch

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swimmer_spe

Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 04/16/14 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Friends with welding equipment is a great thing.

I have a '13 F15 4x4 8'box, extended cab.
I am towing a '75 21' Terry travel trailer, tandem axle.

The trailer came with a WD hitch set up. However it was welded to a bar. When I put it on, the hitch would cause the bars to dig in the ground, and it is far too low.

So, Pretend I have no idea what you are talking about.

Please take me step by step what we need to do to measure where we must locate the hitch so that it can be rewelded in place.

Thank you.

Bob/Olallawa

Kitsap Co, WA

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Posted: 04/16/14 08:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would buy a new set up with the adjustable head and shank. If you do want to cut and reweld the hitch, measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler inside the ball socket with the trailer level and on level ground. Set the top of ball height about 1 inch higher than the distance of the coupler to ground with the shank in the truck receiver and the truck on level ground.


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jfkmk

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Posted: 04/17/14 03:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

swimmer_spe wrote:

Friends with welding equipment is a great thing.

I have a '13 F15 4x4 8'box, extended cab.
I am towing a '75 21' Terry travel trailer, tandem axle.

The trailer came with a WD hitch set up. However it was welded to a bar. When I put it on, the hitch would cause the bars to dig in the ground, and it is far too low.

So, Pretend I have no idea what you are talking about.

Please take me step by step what we need to do to measure where we must locate the hitch so that it can be rewelded in place.

Thank you.


A trunnion style offers more ground clearance.

VintageRacer

Tatamagouche Nova Scotia

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Posted: 04/17/14 04:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First, I have used welded hitch heads but I've never cut one apart and re-welded it. I don't think that is a highly recommended route to take. I have replaced them with the bolt together style, different types, since they let you adjust height and angle to accommodate changes in tow vehicle, trailer or even trailer load. I usually set the ball height to 1 1/2" to 2" higher than the ball socket on the trailer with the trailer level, that allows for a little tongue weight to drop the truck a bit (distance varies with truck - I would use a smaller distance for an F250 with a light trailer than a F150 with a trailer up close to it's capacity). Then I set the angle so the arms are about level with the ground and the chains are at 90 degrees with the hitch done up and trailer at travel weight.

Brian


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Campfire Time

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Posted: 04/17/14 10:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Personally I'd be leery of re-welding a W/D hitch. Regarding a bolt on replacement, pretty much just follow what Vintage Racer said.


Chuck D.
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Peg Leg

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Posted: 04/17/14 10:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Level the trailer on hard flat surface. Measure to the top of the hitch where the ball goes. This is the measurement for the top of the ball on the truck.


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Road Ruler

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Posted: 04/18/14 06:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The welded ball mounts are great because they allow the ball to get very close to the back bumper increasing stability and reducing leverage/stress on the receiver hardware.

They can be taken apart and rewelded 2 or 3 times. A good welding shop will explain this and can do the work. About 10 years ago I paid $75 for the service.

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