Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Tall thin non-opening Windows leaking at the bottom
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 > Tall thin non-opening Windows leaking at the bottom

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lamopar

Oregon

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Posted: 03/01/14 07:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have two windows in the my toy hauler that leak slightly. They are about 6" wide and two foot high. they let a little light in in the hallway going past the bathroom door on the way to the bedroom. The windows do not open. They are rounded on the four corners. when I look at them the rubber seal is at the bottom where it comes together. The windows slightly leak at this seal. If the toy hauler is stored and level with these two windows on the up hill side the water will run in and fill the channel on the inside then run off onto the floor. In Oregon there is enough water coming down the windows that the water can fill the channel pretty quickly, run down the wall, into the bedroom along the edge, slip under the bed and find it's way to the front left corner of the storage area. This took a while to find.
My question is should the seal be at the top of the window or should I just put a little silicon at the bottom inside of the rubber seal. I am worried the water will get into the window and down into the walls and I won't see it. I am not sure the correct path to work on with these windows. What say you?

ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 03/01/14 10:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same thing happen on our other RV. In that case it was because the sealing tape they used went all around the window and the two ends came together at the bottom. It was at this point that it leaked so I just forced a little sealant down into the area and cleaned up the excess. Was fine after that.

Good luck,
Scott


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Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 03/01/14 10:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The glass is set into a bead of silicone and then the rubber trim is slipped into the frame.
The silicone at bottom of glass has a gap.....water gets behind the rubber trim, runs down to bottom of frame, leaks in thru gap and onto inside frame sill. It will then pool up and spill over the inside lip of frame and down the wall.

You can try to reseal by squeezing caulking etc into bottom but it didn't work on my two that leaked. (same type of window........narrow/tall fixed glass.
I had to remove the windows, cut the glass free of silicone, clean off the silicone with a remover (silicone solvent), lay a new bead, reset glass then reinstall window


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Strabo

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Posted: 03/01/14 11:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure the weep holes are clean and open on the window frame at the bottom, they are suppose to drain the water to the outside, plus do what the other posters suggested.


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Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 03/01/14 07:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Strabo wrote:

Make sure the weep holes are clean and open on the window frame at the bottom, they are suppose to drain the water to the outside, plus do what the other posters suggested.


IF they are like mine.......no weeps holes.

At least they didn't have any.....now they do!

path1

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Posted: 03/01/14 10:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Several different types of rv windows and newer ones are pretty fancy. If yours is like mine only windows with sliders have weep holes. I spent today pulling mine and fixing the third time, so maybe I don't have anything to offer as I made a big mistake last time. But maybe you can use something here to help you out. I'm not a "window mechanic" but getting lots of OJT due to my mistake (I'll explain below). My window is 29 inches by 18 inches, I was just going to have the hole thing replaced. But then found out it was $480.00 so they are not cheap by any means. So take your time and don't break.

If you do end up having to pull your window:

Before anything...Look at your window, look for little writing maybe at one of the corners, manufacture name and all numbers. That tells what tinting, style and everything you'll need, write it down, just in case to have to order.

Take a little felt pin or something and make small mark so you can put frame and snap ring back in same way it came out.

Use plastic putty knifes, even though they will bend and break they don't leave marks on outside of RV finish. $1.50 each at Ace hardware, I went thru 4.

when pulling screws make sure you know which hole any odd ball size screws come out of, so you can put them back in same hole.

make sure you have someone on the outside when you do the final push on the window, so window doesn't break when landing on the ground.

Stick putty knife in and work loose, one knife then another right next to it, getting window to come free little by little, until you can get your fingers under and pull gently a little bit at a time, then move over just a bit.

Once you get window out, look around for some shims (might be plastic or wood) that might of came out with wiindow. Those are for centering the window within the frame. And you will need them when you put window back in. (you might not have any, if it was a tight fit when first made at factory or they were lazy that day to put any in, and might be cause of leak)

Tape up window hole with shower curtain and duck tape (dollar store $2 bucks)

Getting old putty tape off is a pain. Doesn't have to be super clean but you need for frame to sit flush when you put back in. I found regular putty knife and screw driver as scrapper to work best, even though it take a long time. Little heat gun also helps making putty tape softer. Dry old tape comes off easier than 3 month old tape. So don't the same mistake I did.

(Here was my mistake)DO NOT clean up old putty tape with (gas, coleman gas or strong solvent etc) Sure made it easier removing putty tape but IMO this was the cause of me having to pull one more time as I think the solvent I used "ate" the butyl that keeps the glass water tight within the frame, I just went through this last summer. This time had to re-set window in within the frame.

OK, take window to bath tub and turn upside down to see if any water is coming into the frame. Shouldn't be any water coming inside the frame. If no water coming in, 99% chance your leak is around the window cut out of RV and the window frame. And not leaking from within the window to its frame that the window is set in.

RE- install

I like "tacky tape" more than the usual "putty tape" Tackey tape has their name actually written on inside of the core (cardboard tube). Camping world (Tacoma) didn't have any so got at another place. And they get from the same place your dealer probably does "NWT" or North West Trailer or their new name Keystone being your in Oregon.
(2014 book) page 13-47 part number 13-0867 which is 1 inch wide.

I put 2 layers on frame, then put back in RV cut out hole, remembering to also use your shims to center window, if you had any.

Put in 1 screw, just a little then the opposite side, then opposite it, working yourself in a torqueing sequence and keep working in screws. As your getting frame tighter, take a look at outside of window, putty tape should be mashing outside of trim ring evenly. Continue till everything is tight, sort of torqueing screws so ring snugs down evenly.

Next couple days scrape of excess with pop-sicle or using plastic putty knife or something that won't hurt outside of RV. Then tighten screws inside one more time. Don't over torque but tight again.

Late this summer, or early fall, same thing, scrape off excess putty and should be all done mashing out. Put the very thin layer of silicone. Hate to use the stuff but use it as an "umbrella" for top and sides of putty tape only.

Next years inspection, Make sure silicone "umbrella" is not flaking off, if so re-apply just a little dap it all it takes. Maybe thick as a dime and wide as 3 pieces of paper, not much, just enough to keep water going and not stand on window frame and keep running.

Extra's........

If you take to RV shop don't be surprised if they say it will be so many days. That is because many shops call in outside window mechanic and then add $50 bucks to the bill and then gives the bill to you. Not saying they are not worth it, just saying you could make the same phone call, if that is the route you take.

Some windows are easier than others, on our 5th wheel I was able to do 6 in one day. Just unscrew, take out window, apply new tape and re-install. Old tape almost flaked off. But this last one on class C was a pain. Tape was only 3 months old and still sticking very well.

If you have the type with foam tape or fancy closing device, I have no idea how those work.

When you see how those screws hold, I chose not use any power other than a manual screw driver, didn't want to strip any holes in alum.

Hope you can use some of this.

* This post was edited 03/01/14 10:13pm by path1 *

lamopar

Oregon

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Posted: 03/02/14 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the tips. I think I will pull the two windows out this summer when the weather drys out and redo the seal. There are no window drains in these windows like all my other windows. I think this is a ploy on part of the manufacturer.

Dirtclods

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Posted: 03/04/14 08:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks~ path1 that was very insightful.

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