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 > Changing to disc brakes

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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 08/02/13 06:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TheAmRheins wrote:

Cummins12v98 when installing the Kodiak brakes check the stud bolts in the hubs and make sure they are seated properly.I didn't and I had one hub that I had to retorque 6 or 7 times


THANK YOU!!!!

Good suggestion. I changed out the 9/16 to 5/8 studs on my 8K axles that came on our Mobile Suites when I upgraded to the Alcoa 17.5" wheels and GY H tires. They made a distinct sound when the studs were fully seated.


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

jnphobe

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Posted: 08/02/13 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I put disc's on 4 yrs ago, its the best addition you can make. I use the factory controller on an 06 and 11 F-350.


Patti and Jon Holbert
Erie,Pa.
2009 Heartland 3370 Big Horn
2015 Ford F-350 CC DRW 4X4 Ultimate Max Tow 4.30 gears
2012 Explorer Limited Ultimate
1997 Ford F-250 SC 4X4 winter ride & plow truck

sheff69

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Posted: 08/03/13 12:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Me Again wrote:

sheff69 wrote:

recycler wrote:

i would see about upgrading your wiring and installing new drum system is lots cheaper and easier to maintain..

It might be, but it is nowhere near as efficient.
In over 30 years and numerous trailers, with reasonably heavy trailers, I've never been able to lock up drum brakes in a panic stop.
With my Kodiaks, I can. I'd rather flat spot tires than repair damaged truck front ends.
I've always maintained my own brakes, and I'd much rather work on greasing slide pins on disk brakes, than trying to adjust drum brakes.

Sheff


Sheff I believe if you research it, that max braking occurs at a point just before the tires lock up and skid. Once the skid starts breaking power goes down quite a bit. That is why modern cars and trucks have anti lock brakes, plus the handling issue.

I trailer with locked up brake is more likely to come around on you and flip on it's side.

So lock up is not GOOD!

Chris

Opinions change, the last I read, the latest research shows that looking at braking distance alone, lock up is better than not. Vehicles with anti lock brakes are not able to stop as fast as those who can lock the wheels. The disadvantage is, you don't have as much control of steering when you are locked up. Note this was on dry or damp roads.
Snow is another matter but with a trailer if I have to worry about snow, I'm in the wrong state.

However, with a large trailer behind me, my steering options are very limited anyway. I don't think I'm going to be swerving hard to miss someone, or taking to the shoulder or grass with my trailer behind me. That would be an invitation to wipe out.

However, I'll take my chances with locked wheels on the trailer. If I had a way, I'd disable the ABS on the truck too. ABS causes more problems than it solves.

Sheff


2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CTD 6 speed auto, 4.10 rear axle, 800 ft. lbs TQ.
30,000# GCVWR.
2011 Carriage Cameo 37RESLS, Kodiak Disks, 17.5" wheels, GY G114 tires, 17,500#.

jwduke

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Posted: 08/03/13 09:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Me Again wrote:

Slownsy wrote:

Not defensive Chris I do have disks on my fiver from new and newer noticed any delay, you described hove disks are activated and I merely asked if there wasn't the same chain off events with drums, which is old fashioned and outdated, have you ever bean at the bottom of mounted and smelled all the burnt brakes, that is why they developed disk brakes.


I have an exhaust brake on our Dodge/Cummins and would not tow without one. I seldom touch the service brakes descending a mountain pass, so I have nice cool service brakes when required. Using service brakes of any kind descending mountain pass leads to over heater brakes. I drove a 8500 gas tanker years ago without jakebrake on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington, never again! I often smelled over heated brakes!

There is now only one top tier aftermarket brake controller in the MaxBrake. Earlier there was the BrakeSmart and Jordon. All three are head and shoulders over controllers like the Prodigy!

Someone early posted 1 second delay for disc brake pump. At 60 MPH that is 88 feet, which is quite a bit of distance.

Chris


We had a Jordon (It died [emoticon] ) and I really thought it was the BEST, the MaxBrake is the BEST out there now. I think, to the OP, I would try a MaxBrake controller, it made a BIG difference on our heavy Hitchhiker.


'04 Dodge 2500 QC 4x4 w/CTD
'03 Hitchhiker II 31RLBG


Me Again

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Posted: 08/03/13 10:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MaxBrake and upgrade wiring on the axles. It is hard to explain the difference the MaxBrakes makes until you tow with it.

However with factory controllers now pretty standard and getting better all the time ,it is not an issue for many. Wiring upgrades would still apply however for those with electric brakes.

Chris


2015 RAM 3500 CC SB SRW Our Rig New 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Retired and enjoying it!


pcm1959

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Posted: 08/08/13 01:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks to Mike Stanbro for that awesome write-up!
My Kodiak conversion is on order and I will be doing it to our Cameo in September. I can't wait!
On the subject of delay time, the Kodiak rep I am dealing with says that with the BrakeRite and proper sized lines, the delay time is virtually immeasurable to nil. He told me to be sure that the main line was no smaller than 1/4 inch. The larger line would help in reducing any lag.
Thanks again for a great report. Phillip


2013 Silverado 3500 DRW 4x4 Duramax/Allison
2014 Lifestyle LS36FW
St Augustine, FL

pcm1959

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Posted: 08/26/13 11:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If anyone is concerned about lag time with the BrakeRite:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koNe1VmzSgE

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/02/13 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We just finished the install of Kodiak Disk brakes on my Dad's 34'HH Premier. His TV is a 2012 Ram Dually with factory brake controller.

We took it for a test run to burn in the pads. He set the EVIC for heavy hydraulic and had the gain on 7. Took it up to 40 and applied the brakes firmly and smoked the trailer tires. Set to 5 and did the same thing, he settled on 3 and the truck and trailer stopped seamlessly just like my truck and trailer do with a MaxBrake controller.

He is thrilled with the way the brakes work! Said it was well worth the money.

Slownsy

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Posted: 09/02/13 07:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With hydraulics the lines are best being run in metal lines and only use reinforced rubber lines from axles to brake caliber and from van to axle.

* This post was edited 09/03/13 05:18am by Slownsy *


Frank
2012 F250 XLT
4x4 Super Cab
8' Tray 6.2lt, 3.7 Diff.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 09/02/13 08:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Slownsy wrote:

With hydraulics the lines are best being run in metal lines and only use reinforced rubber lines from axles to brake cylinder.


That is exactly what we did on my Dad's conversion. Only rubber is the lines to the calipers.

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