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midwest
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ROBERTSUNRUS wrote:
Hi, each person has to make their own decisions on what they want to do......
.....On this trip I had to replace......
Exactly ! Robert brings up a good point. We all have different tolerances for how much we want to roll the dice while we are out. For him, that plan worked well, and he is happy with how it panned out.
I am more the kind of person that likes to start out with as much as I can "brand new". Had I been prepping for the trip he took, I would have replaced all tires, I would have serviced and replaced as necessary all braking components, and if the battery in the truck was more than two years old, I would have replaced it just for good measure. I prefer to stack the odds as much in my favor as I can.
Firm believer in the 7 P's !!!
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Lowsuv
Oregon
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Joined: 12/06/2011
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There is no downside to running the highest load rated tire that fits within your wheel wells.
Kumho makes a tire that offers 2271 # capacity in a 14 inch diameter.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Radial+857
It is the 205R14 Load Range D, and has that rating at 65 PSI. That tire weighs 29 # so you can see by comparison it just plain has more substance than a "C" rated tire in the same size.
I upgraded the tires on my boat trailer to these.
I tow my boat long distances at night to various places from Bend to go boating. The Delta is a 10-11 hour drive and I have done all of the driving at night both ways on several occasions. I do not carry a spare. I have never needed it. The reason is that I have about 150% of the tire that I need.
Any wheel will take 65 PSI. Plastic irrigation pipe takes 200 PSI. Think about it.
For myself I would change to the highest load rated tire that will fit in your wheel well. Carry one spare in Alaska because you are not going to be near a tire store if you have a failure. But I bet that with 4542 # of tire capacity you will have zero mishap.
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canoe on top
Denver, CO, US
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The load rating doesn't matter much if you run over a nail. A spare is a very good idea.
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Lowsuv
Oregon
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On my new 1997 Chevy 454 supercab pickup I tried to use the Michelin Cross Country SUV tires.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Cross+Terrain+SUV
I started having road hazard problems such as nails, screws, and snow studs puncturing my tires. I had that set of tires back to the dealer for puncture repair 5 - 6 ? times while I ran them.
I got wise and switched to the LTX Load Range E tires and the problem stopped.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=LTX+M%2FS
When I got my new Duramax I switched out the stockers for 265/75R16 E Michelins, also. I have not had a road hazard issue on my truck for 10 years.
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midwest
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Lowsuv wrote:On my new 1997 Chevy 454 supercab pickup I tried to use the Michelin Cross Country SUV tires.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Cross+Terrain+SUV
I started having road hazard problems such as nails, screws, and snow studs puncturing my tires. I had that set of tires back to the dealer for puncture repair 5 - 6 ? times while I ran them.
I got wise and switched to the LTX Load Range E tires and the problem stopped.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=LTX+M%2FS
When I got my new Duramax I switched out the stockers for 265/75R16 E Michelins, also. I have not had a road hazard issue on my truck for 10 years.
I agree, and as a general rule it has been my experience that higher pressure ( and therefore higher ply rated ) tires are less likely to suffer punctures.
At the horse stables we have various trailers with everything from LR C to LR E tires, and my experience has been that the LR D and LR E tires have been the most reliable. We run on all sorts of roads, from paved interstates to poorly maintained gravel county roads.
george
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Tom Trostel
Arlington, TX
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I tow a similar size trailer with a Toyota Sienna. I've used 195R/14 Kumho Radial 857 tires for 2 years and I'm very pleased with their performance. I purchased the tires from TireRack.com. I have Airlift 1000 rear spring helper air bags which I inflate to 30 psi when towing. Also use a Draw-Tite single bar WDH. I'm not sure I would subject my 1980 model fiberglass trailer to an Alaskan trip, but I know the tires could make it.
Bigfoot 15B17G
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profdant139
Southern California
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Tom, are you kidding? Your old Bigfoot is basically a bomb shelter on wheels -- there is no place you can't go. See you in Alaska!!
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
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midwest
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profdant139 wrote:Tom, are you kidding? Your old Bigfoot is basically a bomb shelter on wheels -- there is no place you can't go. See you in Alaska!!
Ha ! Ha ! Good one Dan ! And will you change your sig line pic.....we wanna see your NEW camper !!!
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JIMNLIN
out here
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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One downside of using to much tire is when using 65 psi rated tire on that lightweight trailer the tire may ride the center of the tread reducing braking performance and induce sway issues.
Then on the flip side if only 50 psi is used in that 65 psi rated tire it can have sway issues induced by carcass roll which is like pulling a trailer with severally underinflated tires. It wallows all over the road behind the tow vehicle. Underinflated tires = hotter running tires.
I would use a tire with the proper capacity for your trailer and the correct pressure rating determined by the wheels.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 gvwr two slides
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