Doug and Cassi Glass
Clifton Forge, VA
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The infamous norcold recall just took a dump for the third time. Last year the repairman showed me how to bypass the recall so the fridge would work while awaiting parts but due to brain fade I've forgotten how. Anybody out there have a better memory?
Thanks
We're in Key West so a working fridge is a must.
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rvrepairnut
bc
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Doug and Cassi Glass wrote:The infamous norcold recall just took a dump for the third time. Last year the repairman showed me how to bypass the recall so the fridge would work while awaiting parts but due to brain fade I've forgotten how. Anybody out there have a better memory?
Thanks
We're in Key West so a working fridge is a must.
pull the black cover off the controll panel at the bottom rear of the fridge.Look for the 12 volt in and out wires.Remove the in from the recall and out from it and then take the factory in and out and plug back directly into the controll panel
If you have REV D or E it should not have failed?
the more I think about it all u really have to do is join the red and blue wires together as that would bypass the 12 v shut down
* This post was
edited 02/05/12 01:38pm by rvrepairnut *
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Ivylog
Blairsville, Ga. USA
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I remove the big yellow swire that now goes to the recall's red wire and put it on the board where the blue wire from the recall connects. On my recall there are only four connections. Red is power into it and blue is power out.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
04 Monaco Dynasty 42' quad slide
Where am I?
How I tow.
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Are you considering the Amish option to Norcold cooling unit issues?
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rvrepairnut
bc
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Gale Hawkins wrote:Are you considering the Amish option to Norcold cooling unit issues?
There are a very very low % of Norcold cooling units that are/ were defective.There ar thousands that work properly and have not failed
iam On my 3rd DPMH and 3rd 1200 series fridge and all have worked flawlessly
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Gale Hawkins wrote:Are you considering the Amish option to Norcold cooling unit issues?
Kind of like buying a new engine because you had 2 alternator failures. Doug
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Pirate
East Of The Mississippi
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dougrainer wrote:Gale Hawkins wrote:Are you considering the Amish option to Norcold cooling unit issues?
Kind of like buying a new engine because you had 2 alternator failures. Doug Doug, I don't understand. Could you expound on your post? Thanks.
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Ivylog
Blairsville, Ga. USA
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Pirate, I guess you do not understand what the recall box does. It's a bandaid to hopefully shut the refer down before it burns the RV up. These recall boxes are junk, just like the Norcolds and have a high failure rate which shuts down the unit when nothing is wrong. All that's wrong with the OP's is the recall box (alternator), not the refer (engine). OK?
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Ivylog wrote:Pirate, I guess you do not understand what the recall box does. It's a bandaid to hopefully shut the refer down before it burns the RV up. These recall boxes are junk, just like the Norcolds and have a high failure rate which shuts down the unit when nothing is wrong. All that's wrong with the OP's is the recall box (alternator), not the refer (engine). OK?
Since YOU do not understand I will explain to BOTH of you.
The Recall is to keep a potential dangerous condition from indeed causing a potential fire. The heat of the burner area flue is about 350 degrees. IF there is ANYTHING that can cause the refer to overheat then the potential for a cooling unit crack and escape of Ammonia is there. So, Norcold came up with a temp sensor system (which is STANDARD on all current 1200 series and replacement cooling units), the system shuts down 12 volt power to the refer. These type problems can be caused by blocked ventilation/inop rear cooling fans in hot weather/ or a coolant leak. Once the Thermocoupler senses 700 degrees, the box kills power to the refer. Norcold has been having their Engineers analyze the failed kits to find why they sometimes fail with out the 700 degrees being met. Sometimes it is the recall box or a failed thermocoupler and sometimes it is a faulty install or transient bad voltage from the RV. They have redesigned the kits to stop the problems that have occurred. But they still can fail. It is NOT a good idea to bypass without knowing what to look for as it may have tripped due to a hazard condition. Doug
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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Pirate wrote:dougrainer wrote:Gale Hawkins wrote:Are you considering the Amish option to Norcold cooling unit issues?
Kind of like buying a new engine because you had 2 alternator failures. Doug Doug, I don't understand. Could you expound on your post? Thanks.
Cooling units cost around $2000 and the recall kits are FREE
So, you get upset because you have 2 alternators that failed and decide to put in a new $5000 engine. A better analogy would have been you had 2 oil pressure sending units fail ($40 each) and put in a new engine and STILL use the old Oil sending units, which were the cause of the problem. Doug
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