bluebarry1964b
Homestead, Florida
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crah wrote:Sounds like the new tires could be a culprit as well. I guess you could take the tst out of the equation by checking after driving (when tst states 15 psi increase) stop and check with a manual gauge and see if that's real. Perhaps you have bad tires. Did you get the tires the same time as the REK?
I'm getting the impression more and more that the TST may not be accurate. I know I got a 5 psi difference between what the monitor told me and what my tire gauge told me when the tires were cold. I do have another tire gauge that was checked at the tire shop against two other gauges with the same psi indicated on all three gauges. Maybe I'll do what you mentioned and check the tires after they've been driven on for awhile and see if the monitor matches this tire gauge.
As I said to another poster, I don't think the tires themselves are the problem because this rough ride issue was going on a long time before I got the new tires. I figured it must be a suspension problem; that's why I got the Ride Enhancement Kit. But now it looks like the suspension isn't the problem either.
I got the REK maybe a month or so before the tires, but didn't really drive the RV any great distance between the time of getting the REK and getting the new tires. I do remember that with my old tires, when I did drive the little bit with the REK installed, it was my first moment of concern because the ride really hadn't improved at all after having the REK installed. I was really hoping that putting new tires on the RV would change all that.
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crah
Las Vegas
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Mr Bluebarry
Can you describe you ride problem in detail? What specifically e.g when you hit crack in road, pot holes, bridge expansion joints, trucks passing, etc. and if you have any comparison prior to the kit and after the kit.
I wonder if not getting the sway bars has any connection. I've heard from some Monaco members with the roadmaster RR8R chassis say just adding the sway bars softened the ride for some reason. That is with no change of shocks or air bags.
2003 Holiday Rambler Scepter 36PST 3 Slide
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Sully2
Cincinnati
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rgatijnet1 wrote:UltraKen wrote:You could try to find a higher load rating tire which would allow you to run lower air pressure.
Unfortunately, that is what a lot of people believe. Look at one of the tire charts and you will see that whether the tire is an F or a G load rating(an example) the same air pressure is needed to support the same load. Going to a higher load rated tire allows you to carry more weight, at a higher air pressure, but to carry the same weight, you still need the same air pressure.
As far as nitrogen.....air is already 79% nitrogen. It is doubtful/impossible to pull all of the air out of a tire before you inflate it with nitrogen so I would guess that the best you could do is increase the percentage of nitrogen from 79% to maybe 90-95%. That small increase in nitrogen is not going to have any significant difference in the amount of air pressure increase due to rising heat.
100% CORRECTO!!! I see the comment about higher load range / less pressure all the time and have to wonder WHERE did people get thta idea???
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DanTheRVMan
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How fast do you drive?
How many hours per day?
Is your age, back injuries, or other issues a factor?
You may wish to try 2 hrs of driving 1 to 2 hour break followed by 2 more hrs of driving a day. You may be able to handle the 240+ miles a day that should give you and not have to give up the MH.
* This post was
edited 01/27/12 08:18am by DanTheRVMan *
Dan
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johnsonbert
Houston, TX-Ironwood, MI
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We have used the TST since they were first introduced, about 6 years now. I have a couple of sensors finally starting to weaken. The whole time we have used them, we have found them to be within 2-3 lbs of actual measured pressure. It is surprising to see the rate at which the tire pressure will increase with use as the travel day goes on. I do not find the temperature to be any more than ambient temperature, but they have, in several instances, had them be an indicator of a problem. If one sensor, or more, is different than the rest, that has indicated a problem. In one case, a front caliper was not fully releasing, and another case, the emergency brake did not fully release on the rears. They may not indicate inside tire temp, but they can be an early indicator of problems. For actually tire pressure, I agree with the IR gun. We have found the hot tire pressures to have the same accuracy as the cold, within a couple pounds, and as the heat and pressure comes up on a hotter day, the quality of ride does tend to go down on the expansion joints and bridge joints.
The ride of the R4R chassis that we had did deteriorate later in the day as the tire pressures got higher. We had more difficulty with the front than the rear. The front weighed within 100lbs of the axle rating and we inflated to that weight. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert
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johnsonbert
Houston, TX-Ironwood, MI
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Sully 2 said:
Quote:100% CORRECTO!!! I see the comment about higher load range / less pressure all the time and have to wonder WHERE did people get thta idea???
On the R4R we had, we went up a tire size/load range to get more capacity at a lower pressure. It also seemed to roll through some of the irregularities better. For instance, according to the Goodyear inflation chart, a 295/80R22.5 LR G will carry 6810lbs at 105lbs pressure. A 315/80R22.5 LR H will carry 6940lbs at 95lbs pressure. This assumes that you have all the clearances underneath and on the duals to do this, and we did. You are starting out at less air pressure cold for a little softer ride and get to just over the starting pressure of the smaller tire when hot. These were not the sizes we used, I do not remember what they were. So it can be done and is done safely and correctly. Maybe there is such a thing that the Dunlops do not have a very flexible sidewall either, just a thought. I never have figured out how the cars with the large shiny wheels and tires with 1" side walls can have any ride at all. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert
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vcallaway
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Looks to me like the $2100 would have been better spent on good air ride seats.
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rgatijnet1
Florida
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johnsonbert wrote:Sully 2 said:
Quote:100% CORRECTO!!! I see the comment about higher load range / less pressure all the time and have to wonder WHERE did people get thta idea???
On the R4R we had, we went up a tire size/load range to get more capacity at a lower pressure. It also seemed to roll through some of the irregularities better. For instance, according to the Goodyear inflation chart, a 295/80R22.5 LR G will carry 6810lbs at 105lbs pressure. A 315/80R22.5 LR H will carry 6940lbs at 95lbs pressure. This assumes that you have all the clearances underneath and on the duals to do this, and we did. You are starting out at less air pressure cold for a little softer ride and get to just over the starting pressure of the smaller tire when hot. These were not the sizes we used, I do not remember what they were. So it can be done and is done safely and correctly. Maybe there is such a thing that the Dunlops do not have a very flexible sidewall either, just a thought. I never have figured out how the cars with the large shiny wheels and tires with 1" side walls can have any ride at all. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert
Huge difference in what you did and what was stated. Going up in load range and keeping the SAME tires size DOES NOT allow you to lower the tire pressure for a smoother ride.
Changing tire size is entirely different and a change that a lot of people cannot do because of dual tire spacing.
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topflite51
In The Desert of Nevada
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rgatijnet1 wrote:johnsonbert wrote:Sully 2 said:
Quote:100% CORRECTO!!! I see the comment about higher load range / less pressure all the time and have to wonder WHERE did people get thta idea???
On the R4R we had, we went up a tire size/load range to get more capacity at a lower pressure. It also seemed to roll through some of the irregularities better. For instance, according to the Goodyear inflation chart, a 295/80R22.5 LR G will carry 6810lbs at 105lbs pressure. A 315/80R22.5 LR H will carry 6940lbs at 95lbs pressure. This assumes that you have all the clearances underneath and on the duals to do this, and we did. You are starting out at less air pressure cold for a little softer ride and get to just over the starting pressure of the smaller tire when hot. These were not the sizes we used, I do not remember what they were. So it can be done and is done safely and correctly. Maybe there is such a thing that the Dunlops do not have a very flexible sidewall either, just a thought. I never have figured out how the cars with the large shiny wheels and tires with 1" side walls can have any ride at all. Hope this may help. Happy Trails Bert
Huge difference in what you did and what was stated. Going up in load range and keeping the SAME tires size DOES NOT allow you to lower the tire pressure for a smoother ride.
Changing tire size is entirely different and a change that a lot of people cannot do because of dual tire spacing. CORRECT!
This all reminds me of the guy who is sent to the store to buy apples for an apple pie, and he comes home with oranges because they were on sale.
 David
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RayChez
Barstow, Ca. USA
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I think it is the road that is bad in parts. I drove a few weeks ago to Laughlin on my Cadillac and I noticed that if you stayed in the right side of I-40 where all the big rigs roll, the asphalt is starting to go bad again. If I could feel it on my Deville, just imagine on a big hard tire like on motor homes. I don't think it is your tire pressure giving you that rough ride.
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