Taurus18
Winfield, KS
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Tonight I started on the rebuild of my '84 Terry Taurus.
This is the bed in the back of the trailer;
This is the wardrobe that will come out to widen the door;
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This is the back without the bedframe;
So now the questions: The floor in the back is rotten, I'm assuming the proper thing to do is rip out the old floor and go to the frame with a new one, can this be done in sections or do I need to completely gut the camper?
Is there a trick to getting all the cabinets out without tearing them up? This is going to get complicated 
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donn0128
Pronounced Ore-gun
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Best bet is going to be to open up the floor and explore. See how extensive the rot is on the floor. Many people have just taken out the rotten flooring rebuilt the framing and laid new plywood. If it is extensive you have a much bigger job. Remember these things are built from the floor up. Floor first, then the walls are screwed to the floor. Cabinets are put in and the roof installed in one piece.
Donn,Lorri,Max (rescued Lab)
Saigon International Airport 1966/67
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Taurus18
Winfield, KS
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It appears the cabinets were attached from the outside before the outer shell was put on. Would it be feasible to cut the old floor as close to the cabinets as I can and replace the floor around them? Or would I be better off just overlaying a new floor on top of the old one?
The floor under the cabinets in the back seems to be pretty solid still.
Thanks,
Greg
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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Joined: 11/11/2010
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Don't leave any rotten wood in there. And find the source of moisture that caused the floor to rot out to begin with. I'm surprised you can't take out the cabinets just by removing some screws into the floor.
ERS
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Taurus18
Winfield, KS
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Tonight we took out the wardrobe and another cabinet and opened up the right rear corner to expose that damage;
I did expose the worst spot in the floor and could pull apart the plywood with my hands
But with the cabinets out we can start on the floor tomorrow, weather permitting.
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westend
all over
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I just completed the renovation of the floor and framing in my TT. There is a thread in the "Vintage" TT section with pictures. I bet you've already found that the floor is laid up under neath the walls so that removing the entire sheet of plywood is not going to be possible. What I did was to cut the flooring plywood parallel to the walls about 6-12" from the wall where the outer edges of the flooring were solid. I then insulated the 1 1/2" airspace under the flooring (yours may have been insulated from the Mfg.), installed a 2"x2" pieces under the cut line, and reattached new plywood. The floor is much better than was existing.
Good luck with your renovation and, as was mentioned, find the source of the water intrusion. In my trailer the major sources of intrusion were around windows and the joint between the roof skin and the wall.
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Dr Quick
M'boro, Tn
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My neighbor TT has a front bed area and one morning when he got up, he put his foot through the floor. There is a storage area under the bed with access doors each side, and the doors started to leak. By the time he got the bed platform and some minor cabinet framing out, he found out almost the entire area below including framing was rotted out and needed to be replaced. WE had to replace about 50 sq feet of floor and framing, plus some wall framing too.
Removed as much of the floor and framing as we could and cut existing floor and framing back to good wood. Used 2x4's with a piece on the top to span roof joist and bottle jacks to raise and support roof. That way we were able to remove the rotted flooring and framing to the back side of the siding on the TT. I used a "triangular" shaped blade for my saber saw that lets you cut flush to adjacent items. If there was a possibility of cutting skin below floor joist or into siding, I used a piece of aluminum sheet behind item to cut, so saw would not do any damage. I used Eernabond to close up any holes in Skin. Cut joist as required and used a side splice from new to old material in floor and in wall. Used deck screws of length needed, but first pre drilled closest piece of wood to screw head, as it made it easier to attach and make a tighter bond. Installed the new plywood floor in sections by cutting down the center along a joist line, it allowed slipping plywood under wall plate, then 2x4 support of roof could come out. Even had to rebuild some of the front wall framing too.
Dr Quick
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JN_B
Calgary, Alberta
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I don't know why, but I came in this thread thinking someone was restoring a 1984 FORD Taurus...
2003 GMC Sierra 1500HD SLT
2010 K-Z Spree 318BHS
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Taurus18
Winfield, KS
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westend, I enjoyed reading your post.
Dr. Quick, I'm guessing that's what we'll end up doing
JN B, if I knew how, I'd edit the title LOL
I've just been piddling around waiting for the weekend so we can get after the floor with 2 days to work on it. Tonight I replace the plug as the PO had drug it down the road for several miles. I got all the clearance lights working but the tail lights have a short, but I had planned to replace them anyway. Also put on a new disconnect for the brakes. The converter will run lights and the heater, I was thinking I would have at least some of the 120v outlets that worked off the converter but none seem to. Is that a problem with the converter or normal?
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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Taurus18 wrote:westend, I enjoyed reading your post.
Dr. Quick, I'm guessing that's what we'll end up doing
JN B, if I knew how, I'd edit the title LOL
I've just been piddling around waiting for the weekend so we can get after the floor with 2 days to work on it. Tonight I replace the plug as the PO had drug it down the road for several miles. I got all the clearance lights working but the tail lights have a short, but I had planned to replace them anyway. Also put on a new disconnect for the brakes. The converter will run lights and the heater, I was thinking I would have at least some of the 120v outlets that worked off the converter but none seem to. Is that a problem with the converter or normal?
120 volt outlets do not work off of the converter. The converter converts 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC to maintain the battery, operate lights, and if the furnace is forced air, it will most likely power that too. Other things that are 12 volt include radios, water pumps, exhaust fans, and control boards for the fridge and air conditioner. If the hot water heater has direct spark ignition, there will be a 12 volt control board there too.
Somewhere there should be an electrical center. It will contain circuit breakers for the 120 volt system and fuses for the 12 volt system. Start there.
* This post was
edited 01/27/12 06:22am by ExRocketScientist *
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