Willy Chuck
Florida
New Member
Joined: 12/15/2011
View Profile
 Offline
|
I have received many replies in regards to install headers to resolve this issue.
My question is: has anyone drilled and tapped the aluminum heads on Ford V10 6.8 litre engine which would allow the use of larger bolts or studs to fasten the exhaust manifolds, and if so what grade and size bolts or studs were you able to use, and did it resolve the issue of the smaller stainless 1/4 inch studs breaking.
Thank You
Willy Chuck
|
Ka Ron
Kelowna
Senior Member
Joined: 12/31/2009
View Profile
Offline
|
Banks headers will solve the problem
Join Us For A Trip Down The RV Highway
|
bsinmich
Holland, MI
Senior Member
Joined: 11/18/2000
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
I would be afraid to do any drilling on a head without knowing where the water and oil runs are.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
|
wildmanbaker
Kennewick, Washington
Senior Member
Joined: 02/24/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Willy,
What causes the studs to break, is rust, from the cast steel header, and nut/washer. The rust expands, forcing the stud to stretch and eventually break. I changed my steel headers out with less than 16,000 miles on the MH, and replaced them with stainless steel headers. When I removed the original headers, about 1/3 of the studs came out with the nuts due to being rusted on. Some of these studs had rust starting to form between the stud and header. Changing to a larger bolt, may not buy anything. Stainless Steel is tough, but not very strong. Try finding a SS bolt in grade 5 or above.
Wildman 
|
2bzy2c
California
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2010
View Profile
Offline
|
Willy Chuck wrote:I have received many replies in regards to install headers to resolve this issue.
My question is: has anyone drilled and tapped the aluminum heads on Ford V10 6.8 litre engine which would allow the use of larger bolts or studs to fasten the exhaust manifolds, and if so what grade and size bolts or studs were you able to use, and did it resolve the issue of the smaller stainless 1/4 inch studs breaking.
Thank You
Willy Chuck
I would not go there. No way, no how!
My advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
|
|
|
2bzy2c
California
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2010
View Profile
Offline
|
wildmanbaker wrote:Willy,
What causes the studs to break, is rust, from the cast steel header, and nut/washer. The rust expands, forcing the stud to stretch and eventually break. I changed my steel headers out with less than 16,000 miles on the MH, and replaced them with stainless steel headers. When I removed the original headers, about 1/3 of the studs came out with the nuts due to being rusted on. Some of these studs had rust starting to form between the stud and header. Changing to a larger bolt, may not buy anything. Stainless Steel is tough, but not very strong. Try finding a SS bolt in grade 5 or above.
Stainless bolts are not graded. Grade 5 and 8 are only for steel bolts.
|
2bzy2c
California
Senior Member
Joined: 02/15/2010
View Profile
Offline
|
bsinmich wrote:I would be afraid to do any drilling on a head without knowing where the water and oil runs are. \
^ X200
|
sportech
Brighton, MI
New Member
Joined: 10/30/2004
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
I used stainless steel "Allen" head bolts. They are generally stronger that standard hex head bolts. They have been in for 2 years now. Hope they last!
Dave
|
blackf3504dr
Leesburg , FL. .Lake
Senior Member
Joined: 08/13/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
Generally speaking, stainless steel bolts are at best grade 2. Instead of drilling the bolt holes in the head bigger I'd oblong the holes in the exhaust manifolds to allow them to "move" as they heat and cool.
Mom , Dad , Scooter & K.C ( killer cat )
'96 F350 4dr. Dually, 7.3 5sp.
'92 Holiday Rambler 34'
REAL TRUCKS DON'T HAVE SPARKPLUGS !
|
CarlGeo
Central San Joaquin Valley, CA
Senior Member
Joined: 02/24/2008
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
If you plan to keep the MH, just install Banks headers and you will solve your problem permanently. Otherwise everything you do is just a bandaid.
You are dealing with two dissimilar metals that have different expansion coefficients. The cast iron manifolds retain heat, and the headers get rid of heat.
Do it right and install headers! Don't take a chance of screwing up your engines heads with drilling and tapping larger bolts.
|
|
|
