JeLe
Georgia
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Joined: 10/30/2008
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We have a 2004 Holiday Rambler Vacationer, Class A. The indicator light on the panel for the hot water heater does not come on when you turn on the switch. What would be the fix? Replace the switch or replace the light? The hot water heater works fine...just can't tell when its on.
Thanks
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skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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None I've ever seen have anything to tell you it's on except the water is hot. the light usually is on UNTIL it lights on gas then goes out.
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Hi,
The light on my water heater switch only comes on when the switch is turned on, and the water heater is not running or has tripped a safety switch.
So if the thermostat is not calling for heating (tank is hot) the light and burner will both be off.
If the thermostat starts calling for heating, yet the burner is not on, the light will come on for the 2-3 seconds that it takes the igniter board to light the burner, then the light goes off.
If the thermostat is calling for heating, yet the burner has blown out, or has gone over the recommended temperature (so the safety thermostat has shut off the gas valve power, while the thermostat is still calling for heat) or the burner flame sensor is bad, then the orange light should stay on - so you will know there is a problem. Normally I just turn off the switch, and turn it back on, and this clears the problem code, and the burner will try to re-light, and if it ignites, the trouble light will go off.
Good Luck,
Fred.
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jmanatee
Willington, CT
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we just had the bulb blow in the switch, The switch for the 120v heat. The heater still works so that is why I assume it is just the bulb in the switch.
I assume you could just replace the switch, but if you figure out how to fix the bulb in the switch please let me know
Jon
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Lobstah
Northeast
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Our Pace Arrow has an Atwood hot water heater. It runs on 120vac, or on LP gas.
There is a panel with a switch, a light, and another switch. One of the switches turns on the electric, the other switch sets the water heater to run on gas. The light in the middle?...is actually a FAULT light. There is no label on it, but when you look it up in the docs, it's a FAULT light to indicate the propane tried to light X number of times, and failed.
Might be the same situation for you? 
Jim
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othertonka
Stockton, CA
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There was a gentleman who posted a solution to that problem a while back but I can't find it by searching RV.net, but it involved Atwood water heater switch panel where he got some LED indicater lights from radio shack, took the switch panel off and drilled a whole and mounted the led in the panel, wired the leads of the LED to the switches and reinstalled the switch panel in place. Now when you turn the electric or the propane switch on, the panel LED's will come ON indicating that they are on. I did this procedure and they work real well. I copied the instructions but forgot to get the authors name and I will print them here for you but do not have any pictures. You can read it and make your own decisions to try it or not. Maybe the original poster will re post if he reads this.
Here it is:
WATER HEATER Atwood
"Since the water heater has a light to let you know if it "fails to ignite" but not one to show you it is in use, it is easy to forget that it is running. This can result in getting into bed for the night, only to hear the WH kick on and then having to get up to shut it off. Not to mention the increased LP consumption if you leave it on while you are away from the camper.
To alleviate this problem I installed an LED light that will illuminate when ever the switch is on. This isn't an Outfitter specific issue as that is the way Atwood builds them.
Water Heater Indicator Light
It is a VERY simple procedure. Hit Radio Shack and pick up a part#276-085, LED Assembly (LED with built in load resistor). Remove the water heater control panel (after making note of which wire goes where) and drill the appropriate sized hole in it. Then install the LED in the panel and route the "+" lead to the side of the switch that will be hot in the "on" position and the "-" lead to the ground side of the "Fail to Ignite" indicator light. To make the connections I merely stripped back the LED leads and bent them over the appropriate tab before attaching the connector. As the LEDs mount from the front, this allows for the control panel to be removed for service without having to cut any wires.
Since my WH is gas/elec I added an LED to each switch. Here is a pic of the finished panel." un quote,
As I said you are on you own. I drilled a test hole in scrap material first to find what size was right for the led to slip in with just a little resistance and still stay in place. The key here is the right LED with the built in load resistor. Good luck
Othertonka
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Clay L
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
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My Atwood water heater came with two lights. A green one in the switch that is on when the switch is on and a red light under the switch that comes on until the heater lights properly.
The one in the switch failed, I replaced the switch and it failed again a year or so later. I drilled a small hole next to the switch and installed a green LED panel light with a built in resistor for 12 volts. I got it at Radio Shack.
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (Wife), Katie (cat).
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Turbo Diesel Dude
Green Mountain, NC
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Both my gas and electric (separate) switches light up when ON. I can do either/or BOTH for a "kicker". I'd try to change the p-nut bulb. JMHO
charles weidman
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cjoseph
WV
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If you don't have docs to tell you how this light works, turn off the gas and turn the WH to gas. When it fails to light, the light may come on. This will tell you it's a fault light. If it doesn't come on, you got a different problem.
A suspect it is a fault light. That is how mine works.
Chuck, Heidi, Jessica, Nicholas & Tan Puppy
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ArchHoagland
Clovis, CA, USA
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I had about four of those lights on my indicator panel go bad.
On mine I couldn't replace just the light, it was built in to the switch assy.
You can replace the switch with a new one or you can pick a switch that you don't care about and swap that one with the water heater switch.
I swapped a few switches until I was able to find and buy new switches.
When swapping pay close attention to what wires go where.
I suggest taking a picture of the whole back panel assy because when you are in there messing around there's a good chance you'll knock off some of the wires going to other switches and then you've got real problems.
The switches are just pressure fitted into the hole and pop out with pressure.
Here are my notes on my switch adventure:
**********************************************************************
SIGMA SWITCHES
4703 WYLAND DRIVE
ELKHART IN 46514
800-488-9505
=======================================================
ROCKY AT SIGMA 1/29/07 will ship tuesday. ups free
A1-31 SWITCH FOR WATER HEATER, BLACK PLASTIC, RED LITE 3 EACH
ZU-12-14 WHITE PLASTIC, RED LIGHT 3 EACH
ZU-03-14 BLACK PLASTIC, RED LITE 3 EACH
========================================================
*****************************************************************************
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