69RoadRunner wrote:

I do both, and there is absolutely no question that using a trailer is a much bigger hassle.

Let me give my steps starting with hooking up the trailer.

Need to have a much longer space available than doing 4 down to hook up the trailer.

Backing up the motorhome to the trailer requires much more work and precision thant driving the car up to the motorhome.

Lower trailer on to hitch ball. Tighten trailer on hitch ball. Do the chains, breakaway cable and connect to 7 pin connector.

Unlock both combination locks that secure the ramps.

Pull out ramps and put them on the trailer.

Remove driver's side fender on trailer because it's too tall to open the door with it on (not all trailers require this).

Line up car to the ramps. If doing this solo, I have to get out of the car to make sure I'm lined up.

Drive up on to the trailer making sure I'm in the right spot.

Set emergency brake and leave in first gear (4 speed).

Attach 4 tie down straps and tighten.

Reinstall trailer fender.

Check lights.

Do the reverse to unload.

wa8yxm wrote:


Trailer towing:

Hook up trailer to rig (Save for the axle lock or drive shaft disconnect or transfer case this is about the same as above, ONly it' harder because the weight of the hitch). Weight of hitch("A" frame of trailer)? Same for connecting any trailer to a tow vehicle, back under and lower onto the ball.Weight of hitch("A" frame of trailer)? Same for connecting any trailer to a tow vehicle, back under and lower onto the ball.

Now pull the car in.. EXACT, no about.

Strap it down'

15 miles later re-check it. ???? I never check the tie-downs after I have loaded my trailer. Never had any straps or my winch cable in front with a backup strap ever come loose.???? I never check the tie-downs after I have loaded my trailer. Never had any straps or my winch cable in front with a backup strap ever come loose.

WAY MORE WORK!!!!!


Plus as someone else said: Where do you put the trailer?
Sometimes in same campsite, other times in a parking area, or maybe in a pull through site just behind the MH. Depends on the campground.
Where do you put the trailer?
Sometimes in same campsite, other times in a parking area, or maybe in a pull through site just behind the MH. Depends on the campground.

Advantage of a FULL trailer (not an open trailer)

Garage

Nomadac wrote:



There are Pros and Cons to each and your needs must determine the choice you make.There are Pros and Cons to each and your needs must determine the choice you make. Costs is another factor as to your choice.

Can your car be towed 4 down? What is the costs to modify it to tow 4 down? Buying all of the equipment to tow 4 down can easily run $2600-$3200 by the time you purchase and have installed all of the items. Cannot backup any car 4 down, as not advised by any Tow Bar mfg.

If you have a FWD(front wheel drive) vehicle towing on a dolly is the most cost effective to start with. Buy a dolly with electric or surge brakes and brake controller on MH and you are ready to go for around $1,000-$1200. I moved the dolly with a hitch on the back of our RAV4.

Open or closed trailer costs $1800-$4500 (if new) electric brake controller for MH, license and registration, not much in most states, nor is insurance. Enables you to haul any car or truck. Can backup and other advantages.

I have tried all of the above and for different situations they all of their advantages and flexibility.

rockhillmanor wrote:

Well, Now that we have convinced you that a car trailer IS an xtra pain!

I'll go one step further and tell you that when you buy your toad that you can tow 4 down get the automatic brake system where all you do is flip a switch vs the brake buddy. Bypass that learning curve, I didn't and I am sorry I didn't listen to the seasoned ones here on the forum.

Doing the brake buddy thing of bending down under the steering wheel to get it in and hooked up to the brake pad, testing it 4 times,etc, while down on your knees in 90 degree heat gets 'real' 'real' old real quick!