Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Breakdown Information
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 > Breakdown Information

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vancerj

California

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Posted: 08/21/13 10:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1998 American Eagle, 8.3c cummings

Was on a trip into the mountains and lost some engine power, I have a boost gauge and exhaust pyro. gauge installed and notice exhaust temps were really high. Found the bolt that hold the turbo together had backed out and some had broke off causing the halves to split. I had replace the turbo. I told a friend who has the same year and model about my breakdown, He checked his and noticed the same problem, the bolts were loose holding the turbo together.

Sdlineman

Ramona, Ca

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Posted: 08/22/13 01:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Coach: Fleetwood Expedition
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat C7, Allison 6spd
Miles: 26,000
Year:2006
Break Down Description: I had my first breakdown the 2nd day I owned my motorhome. Fortunately I noticed it I the driveway before I started my vacation. One of the air suspension lines was punctured.
Symptoms: The sound of leaking air and a low air warning buzzer anytime the key was turned on
Effect: Nothing really, the compressor created more air than what was leaking out, but it was working harder than it should and could have gotten worse
Cause: Unknown. The air line had a small hole in it and appeared to melted around it a little, but was on the inside of a bundle of several lines and inside the frame rail. I'm guessing it was damaged when the coach was being built but didn't start leaking until recently.

Outcome: Cut out a small piece of the air line and repaired with a union fitting. Total cost $62, but only because I decided to buy a kit with several fittings and the tool to cut the hoses properly.

I went through some of the posts in here, but never found any report about it like the first post had mentioned. Was there ever one put together? Anyone know where I can find it?

doubleG

OC,MD

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Posted: 08/23/13 09:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had two, the first was taking delivery of the 2007 Dynasty(ISL400) we ordered. Coming thru AZ, air govenor went out! Coach Net tries to get 20 different peeps to come out from tows to state police and not a one! Hobbled to camp ground with sir alarms going off and hoping not to lock up the brakes. Fixed next day and nothing else until last week. Sitting a mile from Geo Wash bridge in stopped traffic, low coolant alarm goes off and stops after a few minutes. Got across bridge and on NJ turnpike and stop eng light came on. Pulled off side and turned off right away. Went around back and lifted hatch and watched the water drain off the top of the block out of the water pump bearing. Shouldn't have happened in a maticulous maintained 56K miles. Both of these just my time and no luck, but hey I learn from all issues and next time will have that 3 bolt($140 pump)in my spare parts to be able to change out my self and move on. Cummins said most likely won't need another one again, just one of those bearing failures unexplained, I guess. Oh well, still rather get out and adventure than to not do anything because of a few mech issues.

rvmontana40

Montana

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Posted: 10/08/13 04:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think that the problem may be a non-problem actually but a condition that occurs when you reach the maximum rpm for the engine and the coach shifts to a higher gear to protect the engine. Then the engine and transmission sense a overload condition and immediately shift back to the lower gear and the sequence starts all over again. The solution is to ease off the throttle a bit and keep the rpm just below maximum.

wolfe10

Texas

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Posted: 10/11/13 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rvmontana40 wrote:

I think that the problem may be a non-problem actually but a condition that occurs when you reach the maximum rpm for the engine and the coach shifts to a higher gear to protect the engine. Then the engine and transmission sense a overload condition and immediately shift back to the lower gear and the sequence starts all over again. The solution is to ease off the throttle a bit and keep the rpm just below maximum.


Use the shift lever or down arrow if Allison to lock the transmission in the lower gear. "Hunting" hurts all transmissions.

Of course, the other issue is that running at max RPM uses a lot of fuel.


Brett Wolfe
2003 Alpine 38'


FMCA Forum: www.community.fmca.com/index

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

hartb1999

arizona

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Posted: 12/11/13 11:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

we were passing beaver Utah stopped coffee wal around right rear pealing tread ,2years old put on white sulphur Montana 14 ply not 16 all around 1 michilin left on reg, height 5 others low profile and to small for 40 tradition not safe .put 6 mich.on 1hr.4 guys 7500.oo later on road do not believe invoice ordered right installer never checked Nethier did I my falt but smarter and safer they were yokohama good tires hope you don't get to confident

Gypsy1

Cochran GA

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Posted: 12/26/13 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Winnibago, Journey 2002, 34' Cummins ISB 275hp, Allison 2000, Freightliner Chassis.

While traveling thru Delaware in November, as I pulled up to a traffic light the engine stumbled and quit. The normal dash lights were all out, nothing associated with the chassis seemed to have power. The ignition key, and all gauges dead. After being towed off the road to a rest area, I began trying to determine the cause of the situation. First I checked the battery's both house and chassis. Both battery' banks we're showing more than 12.6 volts. Checked for loose cables or any obvious problems. Tried the auxiliary start relay to see if that would power the starter, no such luck. Checked the front automotive circuit breakers and fuzes, and the buss that powers them, no power?
Called the Freightliner 24/7 Customer Service (800) 385-4357, and described my problem. Much to my surprise the Freightliner tech was extremely knowledgeable. He walked me through the diagnostics and we determined that the culprit had to be the main chassis battery 135 Amp circuit breaker. The FL tech described in detail exactly where the breaker was located and how to bypass it to determine if it was bad. The breaker is located on the drivers side behind the rear wheel attached to a flange below the rail. Not to be confused with a similar breaker assembly on the passenger side in the same location which is for the engine intake air starting aide. The test of the breaker revealed it was ok, but in the process I noticed that one of the. Wires attached to it seemed to be loose and arked as I moved it around. Simultaneously a relay chattered and the dash powered up. I cleaned and tightened the connections, the relay held and everything powered up. Engine started ect.

The location of both of these breakers is below the rails and may be in or near the road debris stream when the vehicle is moving. It is likely that water/moisture is sprayed on these assemblies when driving in the rain. Put them on you check list. Also recommend that you carry a spare, as the are not found in local auto stores. You will have to get them from FL parts. According to FL to get going until you can replace the part, you can simply disconnect the battery and connect both circuit breaker leads together on one terminal reconnect the battery as a temporary measure without harm.


Winny, Journey WKP32T, Cummins ISB 275 HP, Allison 2000MH, 5 speed Auto, Raptor Air Dog fuel pump, towing 2012 Nisson Xterra 4X4 Auto W/ drive shaft disconnect!


Spizzer

Colorado

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Posted: 01/04/14 08:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gypsy1 wrote:

Winnibago, Journey 2002, 34' Cummins ISB 275hp, Allison 2000, Freightliner Chassis.

Put them on you check list. Also recommend that you carry a spare, as the are not found in local auto stores. You will have to get them from FL parts. According to FL to get going until you can replace the part, you can simply disconnect the battery and connect both circuit breaker leads together on one terminal reconnect the battery as a temporary measure without harm.


Gypsy1, thanks for the really good info! However, I would like to add that before you bypass that breaker to get going, old make sure it wasn't actually doing its job correctly in the first place. Otherwise one could end up in a real world of hurt.

Jeff


Jeff
Retired AF, retired contractor, really retired!
2007 Winnebago Journey 34H 350hp Cat
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Toad with Air Force One


FernandoSanders

United States

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Posted: 02/05/14 03:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also have had one breakdown, and I think it was a converter problem, but suddenly we see a problem in the power supply. Later I had to replace batteries and some electrical cables.

rondeb

Pacific Northwest

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Posted: 05/04/14 01:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know that this has been an issue as it appears all over the internet. We have a 2012 10,000 miles on it Winnebago Sightseer 33c. We started hearing a noise and pulled into a truck stop. Found the bracket holding the sway bar on had lost it's bolt. Bracket was bent and the bushing was destroyed.

Thankfully for us, a young trucker came over to see what our problem was. He climbed under, found a bolt in his gear, straightened the bracket and put everything back on so we could travel to our next stop.

I ordered a new set of brackets and bushings and we had a mobile repair service install them.

Just a note for everyone that you might want to check those bolts. The repair guy said that this sometimes happens to a series of chassis when the torque is set wrong and is not changed for an entire run of chassis. They eventually catch it and change the torque back to what it should have been, but those that were not tightened properly all have a problem.

This should be a recall

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