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RE: Ready Brake is too Long
OK, now I understand. Actually the ready brake assy is an insert that adds about 18" to the total tow length. So, I was thinking lopping some off the tow bar shank to pull that back a couple of inches.
I know what you mean and it may be that way for a reason, so I think I would check with them first.
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tropical36
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05/08/12 09:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ready Brake is too Long
Thanks for all the replies. The brake is simply bottoming out in the receiver tube....just the way it's designed and mounted to the frame. I looked at it real hard and shortening it 1" would be plenty. I'll call tomorrow and check but I just can not see a problem. In fact, I may even cut the tow bar shank a bit and drill a new hole. Can't see any reason for it to stick out so far.
Both are a hollow shank design so cutting shouldn't be to big of a deal....even with a hacksaw.
That one, I would have a second look at and definitely be asking about. I'm thinking of the turning radius if I'm reading you correctly.
Turning radius??? Don't understand the relavance.
I'm probably just not following you. Just saying that the toad needs to be a ways back from the coach for sharp turns maybe.
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tropical36
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05/08/12 06:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ready Brake is too Long
Thanks for all the replies. The brake is simply bottoming out in the receiver tube....just the way it's designed and mounted to the frame. I looked at it real hard and shortening it 1" would be plenty. I'll call tomorrow and check but I just can not see a problem. In fact, I may even cut the tow bar shank a bit and drill a new hole. Can't see any reason for it to stick out so far.
Both are a hollow shank design so cutting shouldn't be to big of a deal....even with a hacksaw.
That one, I would have a second look at and definitely be asking about. I'm thinking of the turning radius if I'm reading you correctly.
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tropical36
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05/08/12 05:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Generator
Hi
I just got a 4kw genset question is does it need a electric fuel pump or is it gravety feed? MH had gen. but pre. owner took it out all hook ups are there gas/ battery/remote start.
Dennis
Most likely the gen set will require it's own fuel pump unless the bottom of your fuel tank is higher than the carb on the gen set and this in highly unlikely. Probably no place to mount a higher aux. tank either.
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tropical36
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05/08/12 03:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ready Brake is too Long
Doesn't seem like it would make a difference. The part towards the toad should be where all the up, down and sideways strain is.
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tropical36
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05/08/12 02:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome Insurance
This doesn't and can't possibly include everybody, but I'm willing to bet, that for most, they're paying too much, if they're not shopping around every few years.
I don't know what's going on with my cousin, but he keeps getting a better deal over and over again and all within the past couple of years. He's now with Allstate that couldn't compete with anyone, some years back and actually had a no interest attitude about car insurance, like they were doing you a favor or something. Now, they're aggressive and I will give them a shot next time around if they can handle the RV along with the cars. I have had my homeowners with them forever and can't really replace it with anybody else.
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tropical36
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05/07/12 08:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Triton 10 or 454 better?
GiantRV's Ford vs Chevy comparison:
http://www.giantrvonline.com/chassis/ford.htm
Couldn't find a date on this article, but it reads like ancient history. I mean when was the last time Chevy made a P12 MH chassis and how many are even out there at that? They talk like this is the standard GM model that one would expect.
While I agree that a date is not given, mid way down the article does reference a '98 motor and a '99 motor. This would fall right into the OP's 1998-2001 model years in his post.
Yes, I did see that and took it into account. I guess I was just somewhat taken with the reference to the P12 MH chassis more than anything, as I would almost consider it a GM prototype. Having said that, maybe it should have been the standard and it even has an Allison transmission.
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tropical36
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05/07/12 05:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Triton 10 or 454 better?
Thanks to all on the motor feedback. I just tried a 98 this weekend, hoping those horrendous brakes had improved. I don't care to push that hard on a brake. I had tried two 30' four years ago and they had the same issue. I was hoping maybe the technology had changed. I'm back to keeping my Toy, thanks again. Doug
I don't get it with the brake pressure comment, but to each his own. I for one require a motel with wheels if not going by car.
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tropical36
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05/07/12 05:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Triton 10 or 454 better?
GiantRV's Ford vs Chevy comparison:
http://www.giantrvonline.com/chassis/ford.htm
Couldn't find a date on this article, but it reads like ancient history. I mean when was the last time Chevy made a P12 MH chassis and how many are even out there at that? They talk like this is the standard GM model that one would expect.
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tropical36
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05/07/12 05:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Triton 10 or 454 better?
7.4 is the 454. Workhorse went to the 8.1 around the 98 time frame.
Generally speaking, 454cu in is usually used for a carb engine. It's equivalent, the 7.4 liter is usually given to the later fuel injected versions. The little extra stroke which made it the 8.1 came about much later than 98. Workhorse didn't purchase the the P chassis from GM Chevy until 99 and the only difference for awhile was probably what it said on the steering wheel. The Ford V10 didn't come about until 99 and was under powered for a couple of years. Opposed to the Ford chassis solid axle, the P has independent coil spring suspension with air bags unless they have been replaced by after market coils. The P also has some form of auto park if it's long and heavy enough in most of those years.
The year would depend on my decision and I went with Chevy for mine. Floor plans were the same except for a bedroom slide option on the Ford.
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tropical36
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05/07/12 02:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 5500 watt onan questions is it ok to run both ac
I have a 33 ft winebago brave I am curiuous to why both acs will run off generator is this ok or do I have something wrong with my selector switch.
5500watts should be more than adequate for two 1500watt (approx.) A/C's with plenty to spare. That's about 45amps worth and 15amps more than 30amp shore power.
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tropical36
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05/05/12 05:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome Insurance
What company carries your motorhome insurance? How well do you like them and are their premiums realistic?
I currently have Progressive and have been happy with them for 3 years, but I think their premiums are a bit high so I would like to check with other insurance companies. I have Allstate for my homeowners and everyday vehicles but they do not offer RV insurance in North Carolina where I live.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
LostCajun
I'm presently with STATE FARM who saved me some money with who I had previously. Seems as though, one must change companies every few years to maintain reasonable premiums.
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tropical36
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05/05/12 05:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 50/30 amp adapters
Juat purchased a new MH and will be using a 50/30 amp adapter occasionally. the 30amp plug has 3 blades, the 50 amp plug has 4 blades.
How are they wired internally so as to maintain 120 VAC??
With the 50 having two hot legs of opposite potential and thereby supplying 240vac to the coach, only one of these legs is connected to the hot side of the 30amp receptacle end. The neutral connections are the same, as is the ground.
With my 30amp service, I've replaced the plug with a 50amp model and obviously use only one hot connection. I like the heavier blades in general and now carry a 30/50 converter cord instead. The 30/50 converter jumps the two 50amp blades together and in my case one of them goes nowhere. With a 50amp coach, a 30/50 cord supplies both sides of the breaker box, even though of the same potential, which results in the loss of any 240v requirements.
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tropical36
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05/05/12 05:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Generator fuel line from gastank
You probably do not want to tap into the fuel line to the engine as a "fix." That line is pressurized by the in-tank pump supplying fuel to the engine.
Yep, but did work well in the older rigs with external pumps. I had a 87 Pace Arrow like that and with a lot less problems in that regard. No dropping tanks for cracked fuel line hoses and internal fuel pump replacements anyway.
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tropical36
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05/05/12 01:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Generator fuel line from gastank
OKOKOK...did the job this morning. After that aformentioned running without a problem, the PROBLEM started all over again. So, I do figure it's a cracked fuel line.
One shop gave me a price of $1000. Got outta there as fast as I could. Two other shops....5-600. But....could I do it myself? Got a friend to c'mon over, and this morning, in UNDER 1 1/2 hours...had the fuel line replaced and genny running.
We were prepared to lower the tank. We were prepared to drop the tank. We did neither. We found we could get to the pump and the fitting from the "passenger" SIDE. I had a 24inch flat-blade screwdriver. Combined with my full arm length, popped the fitting (hose) off. Yep...there was the crack. Not more than, say 1/4-5/16 inches in length. Removed the "fitting" from the old hose, clamped it on to the new hose, Hooked it back up to the pipe on the pump, measured, put a protective "loom" over the entire length of new hose and within minits, had it hooked up and genny running. I REALLY got LUCKY!
The hose, bought at my local auto parts...1/4 inch...the sales guy said it was a "ethanol resistant" hose. But...it took 11+ years to get this far....most likely won't happen (to me) again.
Thanks for all the responses.
Good for you.
Now, in my case, I don't think that would help, even if I could pull it off, since my gen set will run just fine on a full tank, so I'm thinking that there's a pin hole very high in the pickup tube.
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tropical36
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05/05/12 09:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Thinking of crossing to the dark side
Currently have a 99 Class A gasser and am going later this week to look at the same vintage Diesel. I like the ride of the diesel over the gasser other than that, have been very happy with the gasser. If I buy the diesel that means I will have to RV's in the driveway until I can sell the gasser. Thanks in advance for any advice.
We had two for a while at the height of the market decline. Couldn't get the money for it, so then decided to trade for something. About that time, I was ready for another boat and made an even trade that in my opinion, was better than any possible cash sell.
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tropical36
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04/29/12 08:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toad Braking System
Another vote for the ReadyBrake system. :B
After extensive research and testimonials, that's what I'm going with if we indeed decide to tow our Jeep Wrangler. It's a little heavy with the GCWR and have this discussion going on in another thread, so I'm still working on this.
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tropical36
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04/21/12 09:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)
When I was towing the fifth wheel, I stopped and weighed the rig, finally, on the final trip back to Montana.
It was UNDER GAWR on all axles
It was UNDER GVWR truck and trailer
But the gross combined weight was 21,180 lbs.
The truck GCWR, according to the Owners Manual, is 18,000 lbs.
Yep, it was 3,180 lbs OVER GCWR!
The truck didn't break, the trailer didn't break, the hitch didn't break, there were no accidents/incidents or occurrences, nobody was injured or died, there were no tire failures, no mayhem on the highway...
To put it simply, NOTHING HAPPENED!
The trip originated in Grass Valley, CA, went down to Hanford, CA, then to Billings, MT, via Donner Pass, Monida Pass, Bozeman Pass, and Homestake Pass.
Sounds like you did a little climbing and downhill braking along the way at that.
I think this is almost the rule or at least in many cases, except that not many like yourself will post at all or even subscribe to any forums..... and especially in your case, with a real world experience.
I am a safety first, type person which is one reason I never drive my Motel at speed limit, even without a toad. When it comes to this sort of thing, I like looking at the engineering of the whole thing and if there's any manufacture out there who hasn't built in more than a 10% factor, then it must have came from the back country of China. I don't assume this though, and look at the whole rig for any possible weak points. Finally, I don't think they have real structural engineers working for most of these coach builders that actually do the math and just strike a number that keeps them safe from any liability.
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tropical36
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04/19/12 09:41am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)
That clear it up. Your only going to be about 10% over GCWR so I'd do it for whatever that is worth. I would use suppliment brakes on the jeep though since the total wieght is over the GVWR (the previous brake, suspension discussion). Also I'd make sure I had an engine oil cooler and aux tranny cooler and down the road I'd go.
You've put this thing in a different perspective when you talk percentages rather than some weight that one might view as trying to carry on their shoulders and I truly believe that many out there are overloaded in some way or the other and maybe more so, than not. Just saying that you can find whole discussions on coaches that are without any CC at all, let alone having anything left for pulling a toad.
I do have a tranny cooler, but not so sure about an engine oil cooler and would think that as long as you can keep your water temp normal, you'd be OK with that end of it. Having said that, I will be looking for such an animal tomorrow.
Tried sending you a pm for some other things, but couldn't with your restrictions, so....
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tropical36
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04/18/12 09:19pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)
OK, here's the deal....I don't have a 4000 lb difference between the two.
My weight averages fully loaded, passengers and all around 18,500 lbs.
GVWR is 19,500 lbs. and probably where I confused you, so sorry about that.
The Jeep is about 4500 lbs., so that's a 23,000 lb total.
GCWR is 21,000 lbs. Does this make sense or am I still missing something here.
you report that your GVWR is 19.5 and the GCWR is 21. the hitch rating can usually be inferred by the difference in the GCWR and GVWR. a Class II hitch typically has a weight rating of 3500-lbs, a Class III hitch at 5000-lbs and a Class IV hitch at 10,000-lbs. unless you've posted an incorrect number this indicates to me that your hitch cannot support the weight of your jeep, you're done before you start.
the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the *lesser* of the following:
- the GCWR minus the *actual* weight of the MH as it is configured for travel
- the weight rating of your hitch
- the weight rating of your tow bar
It doesn't always work that way and these hitches are pretty standard on a lot of gas coaches. The hitch itself is rated 500/5000 lbs.
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tropical36
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04/18/12 09:00pm |
Dinghy Towing
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