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Date Posted |
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RE: Another way to carry a unmounted spare tire
OK, then. Here's another option for all ya' all to consider.... I saw a pretty clever set up last year in an RV park where I was staying. The guy had an RV hitch extension and had a simple "T" structure fabricated on it. The extension plugged into the receiver on his DP and then his tow bar hitch plugged into the extension. His unmounted tire was strapped to the "T" structure with a spare tire cover over it. The inflated tube inside the unmounted tire might be a good addition to the idea.
I though the extra joint might make the tow'd a little wiggley going down the road but he said it was no problem.
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thgoodman
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05/19/12 09:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Onan generator shuts off after 25 min of running
OK, here's another thing you can try. After you finish the other things you are trying (you don't want multiple variables), pull the wire off the oil pressure switch. My last MH had a little Onan in it (maybe 4kw?) and would quit after it ran for a while, then not start for a while. Turned out to be an intermittent contact in the oil pressure switch. The switch would test OK when you put a meter on it but fail while running (vibration?).
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thgoodman
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05/15/12 02:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Coach Batteries
JoJam, Here's another thing to consider. I am lazy and forgetful. I have the best intentions to perform all maintenance regularly on my motor home and we all know that the road to hell in paved with good intentions.
Most batteries require regular maintenance to keep them at full potential and to last as long as they "should". I found that most of the time, when I got around to taking a peek inside my batteries, you could already see the top of the plates. They always seemed to die an untimely death. Now, I have LifeLine maintenance free batteries. They haven't even been looked at in 6 years and are still going strong.
Maintenance free batteries are WAY more expensive than regular acid flooded batteries but, for those who are somewhat forgetful like I am, they are WAY CHEAPER than buying acid flooded batteries every 2 years because you didn't maintain them. Only you know which category you fit into.
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thgoodman
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05/15/12 12:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Traveling pitfalls
Landman, As far as mountain passes and switch backs go, I would say don't be nervous, be respectful. Get yourself a copy of
Mountain Directory Guides. It's available as a paper back book and an e-book. I prefer the paper copy because it's more handy going down the road. The Mountain Directory (hard copy and ebooks) tell you where the steep grades are, how long they are, how steep they are, whether the road is two lane, three lane, or four lane, if there are escape ramps, switchbacks, sharp curves, speed limits, etc. With this information, one can know ahead of time what a pass is like and make an informed decision about whether to go over or around.
Be careful on the long down grades. A good rule of thumb is, don't go any faster going down than you would going up. Don't ride your brakes. Use the brakes in firm, short, frequent applications so you won't over heat them.
Enjoy your trip. Check back when you need more info. There are many friendly people on here to help.
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thgoodman
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05/05/12 02:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class A RV broken mirror
Here's another one to try. North West RV Supply
I've been there and they have a warehouse full of stuff. Their web page sez: "WE CARRY NEW, USED,
SURPLUS AND OBSOLETE RV PARTS
FROM LOCAL DEALERS AND MANUFACTURERS.
Monaco, Countrycoach, Safari and many more."
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thgoodman
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05/05/12 12:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome Insurance Through Hartford (AARP)
I have it. Yes, the basic policy is the same as a car. In fact, both my car and the MH are documented on the same policy. The difference is in the riders attached to the policy. Some are for the car some are for the motor home. For instance, because I don't own a stick house and therefore don't have home owners insurance, there is a rider on my MH police that reads just like a home owners policy.
Their customer service is quick and friendly and the price seems appropriate. I've never made a claim so who knows what that experience would be like. That's the real test of how good an insurance company is.
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thgoodman
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05/03/12 10:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kit extreme toy hauler I need parts
Close but no cigar. Try this:
http://www.rvingplanet.com/manufacturers/kit-manufacturing/
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thgoodman
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04/25/12 08:20pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Driving out of state motor coach
Here in AZ, the dealer gives you a 90 day temporary tag and charges you about $60 for a car (in my case a 2012 Subaru). I suppose an RV could be more but maybe not. I don't know about purchases from individuals.
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thgoodman
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04/23/12 01:31pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Docking Lights
Roy, I really liked the receiver tube mounted lights in your last picture. For anyone else that's interested, I found the web site for the manufacturer. Think I'm going to order a set.
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thgoodman
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04/22/12 03:43pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: EZ pass questions
I have a personal EZ Pass account for my MH. I am registered in South Dakota (we're full timers) and my EZ Pass was issued by VA. I've never had a problem with my MH weight on their toll roads and they have to know I'm way over 15,000 lbs. The have scales on all their toll booths.
IDK, maybe they can only enforce the personal/commercial rule if you are registered in PA
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thgoodman
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04/21/12 03:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: efficiency of house fridges in rvs
Tom, although I have a residential refrig in my rig, I don't know if there is a parallel between my rig and yours. I have BIG deep cell batts, a big inverter and a 10KW generator. All I can tell you is they "just work". I do dry camp some and I can usually make it through 3+ days on the batts alone with the refrig running whenever it is calling for cool.
That said, my refrig will never burn down my motorhome.
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thgoodman
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04/21/12 02:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Cupping
Sour grape group? It seems to me that if you pay a premium for a brand name tire, it should last AT LEAST as long as less expensive tires.:S
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thgoodman
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04/21/12 02:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: EZ pass questions
You need a commercial one for the MH and a basic one for the car. They stick on the inside of the windshield OR you can get one that bolts on with your license plate. I like the inside one ... won't get stolen.
You can get them from any state that has an ezpass system. Just go online, fill out the info and they will send it to you. Different states have different fees so check them out.
You do NOT need a commercial transponder unless you actually declare and use your MH for commercial purposes. It's not based on type or size. I have a DP that weighs over 45,000 lbs with a tag axle and if anyone would need a commercial, you would think it would be me. I discussed this fully with the EZ Pass rep at length when we talked on the phone 2 days ago about reconfiguring my account. If someone told you you needed a commercial account, they told you wrong.
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thgoodman
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04/20/12 01:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: EZ pass questions
I will be spending time on the east coast, due to my Mom's poor health. So, I want an EZ pass - well, not "want" but "need".
My address is SD. Does it matter what state issues the pass? Is there any difference from state to state?
I have a DP motorhome (27k lbs) and toad. Is there an area on the application for rv's? I looked briefly, and it seems I need a commercial pass because of weight?
Are there different types of transponders? (like SunPass has a sticker and suction cup styles) I would need one that I can move from RV to the toad, or 2 transponders - one for each vehicle?
thanks to anyone with EZpass info - I am originally from NJ (don't hold that against me), but never had the EZpass.
We are registered in SD but our ez-pass is issued by VA. Some states charge an annual fee, VA does not.
We have 3 transponders. One for the car solo, one for the MH solo and one for the motorhome towing the car. I just mark the transponders with a magic marker so I can keeep them straight.
They do have different transponder mounting configurations. You could use 3 transponders. That's what works for me.
Call the VA DOT (they administer the EZ-Pass) and talk to them. I have found everyone there very nice and easy to deal with. See their web site here . Phone them at 877-762-7824. Expect to pay a $25.00 deposit on each transponder but you get that back when you turn it in. Also, I do the Automatic Replenishment from my credit card so no muss no fuss on tolls.
Hope this helps.
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thgoodman
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04/19/12 03:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Cupping
Yup, long time known problem and Goodyear doesn't seem to want to fix it. The only way I know to prevent it is to buy something other than GY
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thgoodman
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04/19/12 11:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trip between WI and Utah
We need a little more info on which parks you want to visit. Understand that you may want to spend a week or more in most of the parks.
Basically, take I-90 west to Yellowstone, drop down south to I-80. That will take you to CA and Yosimite. Most of the major parks are within a days drive of that route (well, maybe not Glacier). If you want to do an abbreviated tour you might consider jumping off I-80 at Salt Lake City and going south on I-15 to St. George UT & Zion Natl Park then head back east and north-east to see the other parks in southern Utah. Then, hook up with I-70 around UT/CO border and head toward home. I mention taking interstate routes not because they are preferred. They just make good landmarks. In fact, try to avoid them as much as possible for best scenery.
As far as mountain passes go, I would say don't be nervous, be respectful. Get yourself a copy of
Mountain Directory . It's available as a paper back book and an e-book. I prefer the paper copy because it's more handy going down the road. The Mountain Directory (hard copy and ebooks) tell you where the steep grades are, how long they are, how steep (%) they are, whether the road is two lane, three lane, or four lane, if there are escape ramps, switchbacks, sharp curves, speed limits, etc. With this information, one can know ahead of time what a pass is like and make an informed decision about whether to go over or around.
Be careful on the long down grades. Don't go any faster going down than you would going up. Use the brakes in firm, short, frequent applications so you won't over heat them.
Enjoy your trip. Check back when you need more info. There are many people friendly on here to help.
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thgoodman
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04/13/12 02:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do water regulators increase pressure?
I have not seen a "hidden" water regulator.....but then I haven't really specifically looked for one either. I will explore this later this week as this seems to be a sensible solution. thanks for the idea!
Yeah, guess I should have said "not obvious to me". The one that really fooled me was the one that is built into the flanged hose receptacle that goes thru the side of the MH or trailer.
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thgoodman
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04/02/12 01:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel fuel in Arizona
Just finishing my 3rd winter here in AZ. I usually can find better than Flying-J diesel prices at regular gas stations. The sign on the pump is pretty intimidating. It says ALL vehicles over 26,000 lbs must pay the additional tax with no mention of Motor Home exemption. I ignore the sign, fill my MH and go on my way. Haven't gotten a ticket yet. I hear the fine is pretty stiff but I will continue to ignore the tax for now. YMMV
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thgoodman
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04/02/12 01:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do water regulators increase pressure?
I had the very problem described by WNY_PAT. The hidden pressure reducer on my inlet pipe was clogged from all the hard water I had encountered. Mine was located in the service bay right next to the 12v water pump. Some RVs have them imbedded in the hose connection fixture on the outside wall of the RV. Check it out. I by-passed the on-board pressure reducer and added the highest flow Watts I could find. Wow! What an improvement.
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thgoodman
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04/02/12 12:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Aqua Hot needing service? *RESOLUTION*
Yes, all the info above is good. Let me see if I can provide just a little more.
I choose not to do my own maint but after watching it done, it is definitely something I would have done myself when I was younger and more fit (fat and old make some things rather difficult). As stated above, though, I would strongly recommend having it serviced the 1st time by a pro. Also, my prejudice is to avoid "certified" dealers' repair shops. The business may indeed be on the certified list but the mechanic who got the training and was actually certified may be long gone and the the guy who actually works on your Aqua Hot may be somewhere between clueless and pretty good.
I checked the Aqua Hot web page and there doesn't seem to be any certified service anywhere near SLC. However I know of two highly regarded certified mobile techs who travel through the summer and offer their services. Try these guys if you are interested. Maybe your paths will cross sometime soon.
Orman Claxton, Apache Junction
Updated Mar 1
Orman Claxton
Mobile Service
Apache Junction, AZ 86403
206-660-9893
Roger Berke, Sacramento
Updated Feb 29
Roger Berke
Mobile Unit
Sacramento, CA 91706
916-214-6518
www.RVHydronicHeaterRepair.com
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thgoodman
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04/02/12 12:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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