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Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Terrible RV Crash in Phoenix

I've been driving for a lot of years, going back to when recaps were common and tires all wore out before 12,000 miles. One thing that I learned was that with a blowout the best reaction was to accelerate slowly and hold the wheel steady. When things have stabilized, slowly start to pull off of the road, or any safe area. DO NOT touch the brakes. Let the vehicle slow down itself. DO NOT worry about any damage to your wheel or coach. It can all be repaired.
The best thing is to just be prepared NOT to over-react when you hear the loud bang, or feel the coach start to get mushy. Blown out tires are really not that big of a problem. Anyone that has watched any of the chase scenes on the TV news know that the criminals can still drive pretty good even after running over the spike strip with one, two, or even four, flat tires. It takes a little more of your attention, but it is something that is easily dealt with, IF you are prepared.
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rgatijnet1
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05/22/12 05:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Another way to carry a unmounted spare tire

Since his coach is undoubtedly different than mine, I will have to figure the best way to mount the tire for my specific application. The part about the tube inflated is a great hint. Thanks
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rgatijnet1
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05/17/12 07:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1994 Safari Sahara Edition DP

Try this group: Safari Friends
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rgatijnet1
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05/16/12 12:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Sanitizing vs. Chlorination for fresh water ?

If you do decide to sanitize your water tank using municipal water just be sure NOT to use a hose type water filter. Those RV add on filters are designed to remove the chlorine and most other chemicals from your water before it gets to your tank. This means that you would not be adding the chlorine that comes from your municipal water source.
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rgatijnet1
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05/15/12 12:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake Fluid

DOT 3 or DOT 4 will work fine and can be mixed. It is probably a good idea to take this opportunity to flush the entire system to remove all debris and old fluid.
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rgatijnet1
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05/15/12 09:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome Insurance

This doesn't and can't possibly include everybody, but I'm willing to bet, that for most, they're paying too much, if they're not shopping around every few years.
I don't know what's going on with my cousin, but he keeps getting a better deal over and over again and all within the past couple of years. He's now with Allstate that couldn't compete with anyone, some years back and actually had a no interest attitude about car insurance, like they were doing you a favor or something. Now, they're aggressive and I will give them a shot next time around if they can handle the RV along with the cars. I have had my homeowners with them forever and can't really replace it with anybody else.
Go to fmap.org and put in your house information. I do it every few years and always find homeowners insurance for less in a tough market.
This is a site run by Florida State but unknown to most citizens. Once you put in your info, you will receive numerous insurance quotes.
I actually did the same thing for my auto/RV insurance except I had the girl at the bank customer service division run down the best rates.
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rgatijnet1
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05/13/12 03:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tires, surge protector, oil questions

I like the surge protector for the simple reason that stuff happens, and it is a type of insurance to prevent further damage.
Those that are super careful and use a meter to check the power pedestal prior to plugging in are really just wasting their time. About the ONLY thing they would find is if the pedestal is mis-wired for polarity. Some small meter will not tell you what the voltage drop will be when you put your load on it when plugged in, or what will happen when the rest of the RV park tenants get connected and start drawing a lot of power.
That meter also will not protect you from a spike in voltage during a storm, or other incident that can cause a power surge.
Your Brigestone tires should be fine if they are the same size and inflated as recommended on your coach placard.
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rgatijnet1
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05/13/12 12:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Just because there has been a leak....

My only question is if the roof frame, etc, was allowed to dry out completely before it was all sealed up when the leaks were patched? Water trapped inside the roof framework could lead to future rot/mold/mildew and maybe some unpleasant odors.
If all leaks have been patched and the inner frame is dry, I have used Oxyclean to remove some leak stains.
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rgatijnet1
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05/13/12 12:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is it possable for my inverter/charger to over charge ?

Look in the instruction manual for your inverter/charger. I can adjust the charge rate and upper charge voltage limit for my batteries. It is possible that your charger was not set up properly for the TYPE of battery that you have.
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rgatijnet1
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05/13/12 11:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Miffed at Monaco Parts

Probably the reason why your headlights are so good is that they are probably from some exotic automobile. On my Monaco coach, the headlight assembly is from a BMW sedan series. They doubt if they are normal truck headlights.
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rgatijnet1
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05/13/12 08:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Miffed at Monaco Parts

Did you try to find the manufacturer of the light? I know on my Monaco coach they use a lot of Bargman exterior light fixtures and individual light glass lenses are available from several sources.
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rgatijnet1
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05/12/12 06:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Hail damage to Class A DP

A 2002 model will undoubtedly be totaled so start looking at what the value of your coach is, less your deductible before you make too many plans.
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rgatijnet1
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05/11/12 06:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Scary situation--help?

I would guess that your steering stabilizer got hung up during the tight turn.
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rgatijnet1
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05/10/12 04:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: bugs

Judging from my grill, I would guess Monarch butterflies.
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rgatijnet1
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05/10/12 01:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Yellowing of plastics, rubber, and why?

They do make white spray paint for polyethylene plastics. Once painted, that usually takes care of the problem for good. Naturally this is good for trim items but not surfaces that are in constant contact with water, like sinks and toilet bowls. For those the best choice is porcelain.
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rgatijnet1
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05/09/12 10:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: carpet replacement

Leveling compound is use often to take care of uneven floor problems with concrete and wood floors. In a motor coach, some have a sandwich type construction for the floor with Styrofoam sandwiched between two layers of plywood/particle board. If something heavy was set, or dropped on the floor, I guess it is possible to have a low depression in the flooring. I would check to see if the floor is stained which might indicate leak damage. In any case I would use a straight edge to see if it is really worth bothering with. anything less than a 1/4" probably would not be noticed. If you decide that it needs to be filled in, just use the two-part auto body filler. This sets quickly, can be sanded smooth, and will hold up to any vibration that you may have in your coach. It is available in gallon containers as well as quarts and pints.
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rgatijnet1
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05/09/12 08:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Problem with Pilot/Flying J RV Plus Card

Used the card in New York and South Carolina on our last trip. Both times it worked fine at the pump. One thing that i did notice that was posted on the pump were the dollar limits for the different credit cards. For Visa, which I use, with Pentagon Fed, the limit is $495.00.
For MasterCard, and all other credit cards, the limit was $150.00 per transaction. Just something I'm passing along and I'm sure it may change from time to time.
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rgatijnet1
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05/09/12 06:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: goodyear tires

Considering the tens of thousands of Goodyear and Michelin tires that are out there, and the fact that those two brands are used exclusively on most new RV's for decades, their record for performance is outstanding.
Sure some of those off brands MAY perform well, but they all, in total, represent a very tiny fraction of the RV tires in use, so no valid comparison can be made. One person having good luck with some Korean tire is no guaranty that every one of that manufacturer's truck tires are great.
So you're saying that the number of trucks/truckers that might use a given tire don't count, because they're not RVs?
Not sure I follow the logic there.
Jim
Are you saying that truckers drive trucks and monitor their tires exactly the same way that RV owners do? Are you saying that you never see a truck going down the highway empty and that they are always loaded close to max gross like an RV? Are you saying that you think over the road truckers let their vehicles sit for months on end, parked in one location, with little or no protection from the elements?
I guess I am not sure about your logic to even try to compare a commercial truck's tire service life compared to the AVERAGE RV, which puts on about 5000 miles per year. .
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rgatijnet1
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05/08/12 03:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Plugged into 50amp, getting 30amp

Have you reset the 50 amp circuit breaker on the RV park pedestal?
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rgatijnet1
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05/08/12 08:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Plugged into 50amp, getting 30amp

Some control panels allow YOU to specify what your input amperage is. Some do it automatically but some energy management systems do allow manual input.
50 amp service means that you have 50 amps available on each leg, or 100 amps total available. Even if one leg was tripped, you would still have 50 amps available on the other side. This would also show up as 1/2 of your systems would be without power. If everything is working fine, I would guess that you just need to push the button for 50 amps on your panel. Of course, it is possible that you could have a failure in your control panel sensor system.
I am assuming that you have plugged your 4 prong 50 amp plug in to the RV park pedestal WITHOUT using the 50-30 amp adapter and plugged into the 3 prong plug instead.
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rgatijnet1
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05/08/12 07:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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